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Spoke 'wind-up' question

Started by Dan Daniel · · Last activity · 107 posts · 2,947 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
12 August 2004
Last activity
3 September 2004
Original author
Dan Daniel
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  1. Just curious- when you (well, when I, maybe not you) get that pinging
    noise as wind-up is released, what exactly is going on? Is the spoke
    moving while the nipple stays still? Or is the nipple moving in the
    rim? Both?

    I keep seeing people refer to the wheel's trueness changing after the
    wind-up is released. Which makes me think that it is assumed that the
    spoke is moving in the nipple, and the effective length of the
    spoke/nipple has now changed.

    Are there other factors than a new effective spoke/nipple length that
    causes the trueness of the wheel to change? For example, maybe a spoke
    gets seated on first riding if the build wasn't good, and it also gets
    wind-up because the build wasn't good. And people mistake wind-up
    pinging as the reason the wheel has changed trueness when it is really
    from other things that are often accompanied by wind-up?

  2. Dan Daniel said:

    Just curious- when you (well, when I, maybe not you) get that pinging
    noise as wind-up is released, what exactly is going on? Is the spoke
    moving while the nipple stays still? Or is the nipple moving in the
    rim? Both?

    Quoted message said:

    I keep seeing people refer to the wheel's trueness changing after the
    wind-up is released. Which makes me think that it is assumed that the
    spoke is moving in the nipple, and the effective length of the
    spoke/nipple has now changed.

    Quoted message said:

    Are there other factors than a new effective spoke/nipple length that
    causes the trueness of the wheel to change? For example, maybe a spoke
    gets seated on first riding if the build wasn't good, and it also gets
    wind-up because the build wasn't good. And people mistake wind-up
    pinging as the reason the wheel has changed trueness when it is really
    from other things that are often accompanied by wind-up?

    It is the spoke turning in the threads. The larger contact diameter
    of the nipple on the rim has more drag than the spoke in the thread
    due to similar friction but at greatly different diameters. As spoke
    load is reduced under riding load, the spoke slips in its threads
    first and while turning, is better lubricated than a static
    joint, thereby nearly completely un-twisting if not over-shooting.

    Unscrewed spokes alter alignment.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

  3. [email hidden] wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:


    It is the spoke turning in the threads. The larger contact diameter
    of the nipple on the rim has more drag than the spoke in the thread
    due to similar friction but at greatly different diameters. As spoke
    load is reduced under riding load, the spoke slips in its threads
    first and while turning, is better lubricated than a static
    joint, thereby nearly completely un-twisting if not over-shooting.

    It is not better lubricated, it overcomes stiction, and if it was oiled it
    would not overshoot. Of course the use of linseed oil overcomes this
    problem completely. As the oil dries, it will hold the nipple so as it does
    not unwind because the oil adheres the nipple to the spoke.

    Trevor

  4. ddandan-<< I, maybe not you) get that pinging
    noise as wind-up is released, what exactly is going on? Is the spoke
    moving while the nipple stays still? Or is the nipple moving in the
    rim? Both? >><BR><BR>

    The nipple is staying put, the windup in the spoke is unwinding and 'rubbin'
    against the adjacent spoke . The 'noise' can also be the nipple rubbing in the
    rim.

    When the windup comes oiut, the tension lessens.

    Peter Chisholm
    Vecchio's Bicicletteria
    1833 Pearl St.
    Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535
    http://www.vecchios.com
    "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

  5. Trevor Jeffrey said:
    Quoted message said:

    It is the spoke turning in the threads. The larger contact
    diameter of the nipple on the rim has more drag than the spoke in
    the thread due to similar friction but at greatly different
    diameters. As spoke load is reduced under riding load, the spoke
    slips in its threads first and while turning, is better lubricated
    than a static joint, thereby nearly completely un-twisting if not
    over-shooting.

    Quoted message said:

    It is not better lubricated, it overcomes stiction, and if it was
    oiled it would not overshoot. Of course the use of linseed oil
    overcomes this problem completely. As the oil dries, it will hold
    the nipple so as it does not unwind because the oil adheres the
    nipple to the spoke.

    Stop hypothesizing and get real. Oiled or not and with any lubricant
    you can use, stiction remains in the spoke-nipple interface. Your
    suggestion that linseed oil solves this problem is untrue and that
    this oil will prevent the spoke from turning in the nipple when the
    wheel is first ridden assumes that the oil has had time to harden
    before the wheel was used. Even then, friction in the nipple to rim
    interface is greater than linseed oil friction unless the oil is
    completely hardened.

    Where do you get this stuff anyway or do you compose it on the fly?

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

  6. quote=''Dan Daniel said:

    Just curious- when you (well, when I, maybe not you) get that pinging
    noise as wind-up is released, what exactly is going on? Is the spoke
    moving while the nipple stays still? Or is the nipple moving in the
    rim? Both?

    Quoted message said:

    I keep seeing people refer to the wheel's trueness changing after the
    wind-up is released. Which makes me think that it is assumed that the
    spoke is moving in the nipple, and the effective length of the
    spoke/nipple has now changed.

    Quoted message said:

    Are there other factors than a new effective spoke/nipple length that
    causes the trueness of the wheel to change? For example, maybe a spoke
    gets seated on first riding if the build wasn't good, and it also gets
    wind-up because the build wasn't good. And people mistake wind-up
    pinging as the reason the wheel has changed trueness when it is really
    from other things that are often accompanied by wind-up?

    It is the spoke turning in the threads. The larger contact diameter
    of the nipple on the rim has more drag than the spoke in the thread
    due to similar friction but at greatly different diameters. As spoke
    load is reduced under riding load, the spoke slips in its threads
    first and while turning, is better lubricated than a static
    joint, thereby nearly completely un-twisting if not over-shooting.

    Unscrewed spokes alter alignment.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden][/QUOTE]

    I want to be clear as to what you are saying.
    When the spoke(s) untwist in the nipple, doesn't the nipple also need to rotate in the rim hole by close to the same amount?

  7. daveornee said:


    Quoted message said:
    Dan Daniel said:

    Just curious- when you (well, when I, maybe not you) get that


    pinging

    Quoted message said:

    noise as wind-up is released, what exactly is going on? Is the spoke
    moving while the nipple stays still? Or is the nipple moving in the
    rim? Both?

    Quoted message said:

    I keep seeing people refer to the wheel's trueness changing after


    the

    Quoted message said:

    wind-up is released. Which makes me think that it is assumed that


    the

    Quoted message said:

    spoke is moving in the nipple, and the effective length of the
    spoke/nipple has now changed.

    Quoted message said:

    Are there other factors than a new effective spoke/nipple length


    that

    Quoted message said:

    causes the trueness of the wheel to change? For example, maybe a


    spoke

    Quoted message said:

    gets seated on first riding if the build wasn't good, and it also


    gets

    Quoted message said:

    wind-up because the build wasn't good. And people mistake wind-up
    pinging as the reason the wheel has changed trueness when it is


    really

    Quoted message said:

    from other things that are often accompanied by wind-up?

    It is the spoke turning in the threads. The larger contact diameter
    of the nipple on the rim has more drag than the spoke in the thread
    due to similar friction but at greatly different diameters. As spoke
    load is reduced under riding load, the spoke slips in its threads
    first and while turning, is better lubricated than a static
    joint, thereby nearly completely un-twisting if not over-shooting.

    Unscrewed spokes alter alignment.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

    I want to be clear as to what you are saying.
    When the spoke(s) untwist in the nipple, doesn't the nipple also need
    to rotate in the rim hole by close to the same amount?

    As I understand it from what he has written-

    No, the motion is in the spoke/nipple connection. The friction
    (stiction?) in this interface is less than in the nipple/rim
    interface, so when the length-wise tension of the spoke is relaxed
    under weight, the wind-up is released in the spoke/nipple interface
    before there is a sufficient reduction in friction in the nipple/rim
    interface for any movement to occur there.

  8. daveornee said:


    Quoted message said:
    Dan Daniel said:

    Just curious- when you (well, when I, maybe not you) get that


    pinging

    Quoted message said:

    noise as wind-up is released, what exactly is going on? Is the spoke
    moving while the nipple stays still? Or is the nipple moving in the
    rim? Both?

    Quoted message said:

    I keep seeing people refer to the wheel's trueness changing after


    the

    Quoted message said:

    wind-up is released. Which makes me think that it is assumed that


    the

    Quoted message said:

    spoke is moving in the nipple, and the effective length of the
    spoke/nipple has now changed.

    Quoted message said:

    Are there other factors than a new effective spoke/nipple length


    that

    Quoted message said:

    causes the trueness of the wheel to change? For example, maybe a


    spoke

    Quoted message said:

    gets seated on first riding if the build wasn't good, and it also


    gets

    Quoted message said:

    wind-up because the build wasn't good. And people mistake wind-up
    pinging as the reason the wheel has changed trueness when it is


    really

    Quoted message said:

    from other things that are often accompanied by wind-up?

    It is the spoke turning in the threads. The larger contact diameter
    of the nipple on the rim has more drag than the spoke in the thread
    due to similar friction but at greatly different diameters. As spoke
    load is reduced under riding load, the spoke slips in its threads
    first and while turning, is better lubricated than a static
    joint, thereby nearly completely un-twisting if not over-shooting.

    Unscrewed spokes alter alignment.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

    I want to be clear as to what you are saying.
    When the spoke(s) untwist in the nipple, doesn't the nipple also need
    to rotate in the rim hole by close to the same amount?

    As I understand it from what he has written-

    No, the motion is in the spoke/nipple connection. The friction
    (stiction?) in this interface is less than in the nipple/rim
    interface, so when the length-wise tension of the spoke is relaxed
    under weight, the wind-up is released in the spoke/nipple interface
    before there is a sufficient reduction in friction in the nipple/rim
    interface for any movement to occur there.

  9. daveornee said:


    Quoted message said:
    Dan Daniel said:

    Just curious- when you (well, when I, maybe not you) get that


    pinging

    Quoted message said:

    noise as wind-up is released, what exactly is going on? Is the spoke
    moving while the nipple stays still? Or is the nipple moving in the
    rim? Both?

    Quoted message said:

    I keep seeing people refer to the wheel's trueness changing after


    the

    Quoted message said:

    wind-up is released. Which makes me think that it is assumed that


    the

    Quoted message said:

    spoke is moving in the nipple, and the effective length of the
    spoke/nipple has now changed.

    Quoted message said:

    Are there other factors than a new effective spoke/nipple length


    that

    Quoted message said:

    causes the trueness of the wheel to change? For example, maybe a


    spoke

    Quoted message said:

    gets seated on first riding if the build wasn't good, and it also


    gets

    Quoted message said:

    wind-up because the build wasn't good. And people mistake wind-up
    pinging as the reason the wheel has changed trueness when it is


    really

    Quoted message said:

    from other things that are often accompanied by wind-up?

    It is the spoke turning in the threads. The larger contact diameter
    of the nipple on the rim has more drag than the spoke in the thread
    due to similar friction but at greatly different diameters. As spoke
    load is reduced under riding load, the spoke slips in its threads
    first and while turning, is better lubricated than a static
    joint, thereby nearly completely un-twisting if not over-shooting.

    Unscrewed spokes alter alignment.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

    I want to be clear as to what you are saying.
    When the spoke(s) untwist in the nipple, doesn't the nipple also need
    to rotate in the rim hole by close to the same amount?

    Dear Dave,

    From what Jobst and others have posted, I think that the
    spoke in question has been over-tightened and is twisted
    like the stripes on a barber pole.

    Shortly after you begin riding on such a twisted spoke, the
    repeated rapid loss of tension as the spoke rolls under the
    hub and takes the load leads to the spoke threads breaking
    free of the friction inside the nipple and untwisting.

    The nipple doesn't move. It remains fixed in place while the
    spoke untwists and unscrews itself. The barber-pole stripes
    on the spoke would now dive straight down. The torsion of
    over-tightening is now relaxed.

    The reason that the twisted spoke unscrews inside the nipple
    instead of spinning the nipple itself is that the nipple has
    a much larger diameter contact with the rim than the spoke
    has with the nipple threads.

    Here's the situation in reverse. Take a toilet plunger with
    a wooden handle threaded into rubber plunger and lean on it
    with all your weight, pressing it onto a rubber mat. Now,
    while still pressing on it, turn the wooden handle. The wide
    rubber cup stays in place and the narrow wooden handle will
    start to unthread.

    Carl Fogel

  10. Trevor Jeffrey said:

    [email hidden] wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:

    It is the spoke turning in the threads. The larger contact diameter
    of the nipple on the rim has more drag than the spoke in the thread
    due to similar friction but at greatly different diameters. As spoke
    load is reduced under riding load, the spoke slips in its threads
    first and while turning, is better lubricated than a static
    joint, thereby nearly completely un-twisting if not over-shooting.

    It is not better lubricated, it overcomes stiction, and if it was oiled it
    would not overshoot. Of course the use of linseed oil overcomes this
    problem completely. As the oil dries, it will hold the nipple so as it does
    not unwind because the oil adheres the nipple to the spoke.

    Why not use steel hubs, nipples and rims? Then everything could be
    welded together after assembly. 😉

    --
    Tom Sherman – Quad City Area

  11. Carl Fogel said:
    Quoted message said:

    I want to be clear as to what you are saying. When the spoke(s)
    untwist in the nipple, doesn't the nipple also need to rotate in
    the rim hole by close to the same amount?

    Quoted message said:

    From what Jobst and others have posted, I think that the spoke in
    question has been over-tightened and is twisted like the stripes on
    a barber pole.

    Not so. Spokes, other than 1.5mm diameter, twist between 1/8 and 1/4
    turn when tightened so that if the last adjustment is a tightening
    one, the spoke has such a twist (when tightened to ideal tension).
    This is the main reason machine built wheels are often too loosely
    spoked, because final adjustment only twist the spoke with no change
    in thread engagement. Therefore, there is no adjustment made and the
    machine keeps repeating itself as it goes around because the next
    attempt overcomes stiction and results in twice the amount of
    adjustment required. Then the process repeats after backing off in a
    similar manner.

    Quoted message said:

    Shortly after you begin riding on such a twisted spoke, the repeated
    rapid loss of tension as the spoke rolls under the hub and takes the
    load leads to the spoke threads breaking free of the friction inside
    the nipple and untwisting.

    The first time such a wheel is loaded spokes advance or back off in
    their threads. As I explained, the nipple contact radius being
    several times that of the spoke but with the same or worse friction,
    only the thread changes position as spoke tension is reduced by
    loading. Sometimes this occurs only when leaning the bicycle because
    this causes a greater reduction in tension than the upright position.

    Quoted message said:

    The nipple doesn't move. It remains fixed in place while the spoke
    untwists and unscrews itself. The barber-pole stripes on the spoke
    would now dive straight down. The torsion of over-tightening is now
    relaxed.

    Well... that's a little exaggerated. The stripe has at best a quarter
    turn helix, something that is hard to see no matter how you look at
    it. Barber poles usually have a full turn:

    http://www.adsd.com/holtz/bpole.html

    Quoted message said:

    The reason that the twisted spoke unscrews inside the nipple instead
    of spinning the nipple itself is that the nipple has a much larger
    diameter contact with the rim than the spoke has with the nipple
    threads.

    Quoted message said:

    Here's the situation in reverse. Take a toilet plunger with a wooden
    handle threaded into rubber plunger and lean on it with all your
    weight, pressing it onto a rubber mat. Now, while still pressing on
    it, turn the wooden handle. The wide rubber cup stays in place and
    the narrow wooden handle will start to unthread.

    What is more telling is that an unlubricated spoke nipple will rotate
    so poorly in a rim that its flanks can be rounded by a spoke wrench.
    In fact the spoke wrenches that engage four corners of the nipple are
    unnecessary if the nipple contact in the rim is oiled, thereby
    allowing the use of a parallel slot wrench to do the job and faster
    than one that must be axially engaged.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

  12. Tom Sherman wrote in message <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:


    Why not use steel hubs, nipples and rims? Then everything could be
    welded together after assembly. 😉

    Steel nipples could be tigged to spokes in short time. May be inappropriate
    for team use, because tyres would have to be removed to replace a broken
    spoke.

    Trevor

  13. [email hidden] wrote in message
    <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:


    What is more telling is that an unlubricated spoke nipple will rotate
    so poorly in a rim that its flanks can be rounded by a spoke wrench.
    In fact the spoke wrenches that engage four corners of the nipple are
    unnecessary if the nipple contact in the rim is oiled, thereby
    allowing the use of a parallel slot wrench to do the job and faster
    than one that must be axially engaged.

    Dear Jobst,
    I sit with my jaw dropped. Are you advocating that oil is good for nipples?
    Really?

    Trevor

  14. Trevor Jeffrey said:


    Tom Sherman wrote in message <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:


    Why not use steel hubs, nipples and rims? Then everything could be
    welded together after assembly. 😉

    Steel nipples could be tigged to spokes in short time.

    You could also just use pliers to crimp the nipples onto the spokes if
    for some reason you wanted to stop any adjustments/changes.

    JT
    ****************************
    Remove "remove" to reply
    Visit http://www.jt10000.com
    ****************************

  15. Trevor Jeffrey said:


    [email hidden] wrote in message
    <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:


    What is more telling is that an unlubricated spoke nipple will rotate
    so poorly in a rim that its flanks can be rounded by a spoke wrench.
    In fact the spoke wrenches that engage four corners of the nipple are
    unnecessary if the nipple contact in the rim is oiled, thereby
    allowing the use of a parallel slot wrench to do the job and faster
    than one that must be axially engaged.

    Dear Jobst,
    I sit with my jaw dropped. Are you advocating that oil is good for nipples?
    Really?

    Trevor

    Dear Trevor,

    Why, yes, it's a common practice to oil spoke threads (and
    numerous other threaded fasteners) before assembly.

    Among other advantages, lubrication makes it possible to
    adjust extremely small nipples under high tension.
    Otherwise, the wheel builder is likely to round off the
    flats.

    Once spoke twist (or wind-up) is eliminated, the tremendous
    tension keeps the lubricated spoke nipples firmly in place,
    despite the fears of laymen like me. There really isn't any
    force acting to twist a straight, untwisted spoke or its
    nipple.

    I'm afraid that most of the dangling mandibles will be in
    regard to anyone unfamiliar with this widespread technique.

    Jobst, for example, explains oiling the spoke threads in his
    book and even includes an oil can in the drawing of the
    parts and tools needed to build a wheel.

    Carl Fogel

  16. John Forrest Tomlinson wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:

    You could also just use pliers to crimp the nipples onto the spokes if
    for some reason you wanted to stop any adjustments/changes.

    No the nipples may split.

    Trevor

  17. Trevor Jeffrey said:
    Quoted message said:

    What is more telling is that an unlubricated spoke nipple will rotate
    so poorly in a rim that its flanks can be rounded by a spoke wrench.
    In fact the spoke wrenches that engage four corners of the nipple are
    unnecessary if the nipple contact in the rim is oiled, thereby
    allowing the use of a parallel slot wrench to do the job and faster
    than one that must be axially engaged.

    Quoted message said:

    I sit with my jaw dropped. Are you advocating that oil is good for
    nipples? Really?

    I can't tell whether this is a facetious question or not, but since I
    have not see much dry humor in your protestations, I'll assume it is
    serious.

    Yes, really, and the book you complain about so bitterly, outlines what
    needs to be oiled to build good wheels. Why do you think oiling spoke
    nipples is astonishing (jaw dropping)?

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

  18. [email hidden] wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:

    Why, yes, it's a common practice to oil spoke threads (and
    numerous other threaded fasteners) before assembly.

    Among other advantages, lubrication makes it possible to
    adjust extremely small nipples under high tension.
    Otherwise, the wheel builder is likely to round off the
    flats.

    Once spoke twist (or wind-up) is eliminated, the tremendous
    tension keeps the lubricated spoke nipples firmly in place,
    despite the fears of laymen like me. There really isn't any
    force acting to twist a straight, untwisted spoke or its
    nipple.

    I'm afraid that most of the dangling mandibles will be in
    regard to anyone unfamiliar with this widespread technique.

    Jobst, for example, explains oiling the spoke threads in his
    book and even includes an oil can in the drawing of the
    parts and tools needed to build a wheel.

    I am well aware of the requirement to use lubrication on a threaded
    fastening, I cannot recall that Jobst called for this in his book. The
    criticism I get for oiling the spoke threads with linseed comes from his
    supporters. It has been put forward by these know it alls as a worthless
    exercise because I do not adhere to spokes hanging or standing. To form and
    voice an alternative opinion under the constant scything which I receive is
    not easy. I may just get bored with it all and leave you in beautiful
    Jobst world where everything is fine and dandy if you stress relieve your
    spokes.

    Trevor

  19. Carl Fogel said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    What is more telling is that an unlubricated spoke nipple will
    rotate so poorly in a rim that its flanks can be rounded by a
    spoke wrench. In fact the spoke wrenches that engage four corners
    of the nipple are unnecessary if the nipple contact in the rim is
    oiled, thereby allowing the use of a parallel slot wrench to do
    the job and faster than one that must be axially engaged.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I sit with my jaw dropped. Are you advocating that oil is good for
    nipples? Really?

    Quoted message said:

    Why, yes, it's a common practice to oil spoke threads (and numerous
    other threaded fasteners) before assembly.

    Quoted message said:

    Among other advantages, lubrication makes it possible to adjust
    extremely small nipples under high tension. Otherwise, the wheel
    builder is likely to round off the flats.

    Quoted message said:

    Once spoke twist (or wind-up) is eliminated, the tremendous tension
    keeps the lubricated spoke nipples firmly in place, despite the
    fears of laymen like me. There really isn't any force acting to
    twist a straight, untwisted spoke or its nipple.

    There really is a force although too small to overcome stiction of a
    static thread that is as heavily loaded as this one. The ramp of a
    spoke thread has a torque proportional to the slope and axial load and
    is apparent on ball-screws that are made to have feedback to the
    actuator that turns them. A ball screw nut will spin to the bottom
    freely if the screw is held vertically. A free spoke nipple will not
    turn when the spoke is held vertically.

    Quoted message said:

    I'm afraid that most of the dangling mandibles will be in regard to
    anyone unfamiliar with this widespread technique.

    Quoted message said:

    Jobst, for example, explains oiling the spoke threads in his book
    and even includes an oil can in the drawing of the parts and tools
    needed to build a wheel.

    I think Trevor is questioning the lubrication of the spoke nipple to
    rim socket interface. This is where the main torque of spoke
    adjustment arises and causes people to round off the flats on spoke
    nipples.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

  20. Quoted message said:
    Carl Fogel said:
    Quoted message said:

    > What is more telling is that an unlubricated spoke nipple will
    > rotate so poorly in a rim that its flanks can be rounded by a
    > spoke wrench. In fact the spoke wrenches that engage four corners
    > of the nipple are unnecessary if the nipple contact in the rim is
    > oiled, thereby allowing the use of a parallel slot wrench to do
    > the job and faster than one that must be axially engaged.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I sit with my jaw dropped. Are you advocating that oil is good for
    nipples? Really?

    Quoted message said:

    Why, yes, it's a common practice to oil spoke threads (and numerous
    other threaded fasteners) before assembly.

    Quoted message said:

    Among other advantages, lubrication makes it possible to adjust
    extremely small nipples under high tension. Otherwise, the wheel
    builder is likely to round off the flats.

    Quoted message said:

    Once spoke twist (or wind-up) is eliminated, the tremendous tension
    keeps the lubricated spoke nipples firmly in place, despite the
    fears of laymen like me. There really isn't any force acting to
    twist a straight, untwisted spoke or its nipple.

    There really is a force although too small to overcome stiction of a
    static thread that is as heavily loaded as this one. The ramp of a
    spoke thread has a torque proportional to the slope and axial load and
    is apparent on ball-screws that are made to have feedback to the
    actuator that turns them. A ball screw nut will spin to the bottom
    freely if the screw is held vertically. A free spoke nipple will not
    turn when the spoke is held vertically.

    Quoted message said:

    I'm afraid that most of the dangling mandibles will be in regard to
    anyone unfamiliar with this widespread technique.

    Quoted message said:

    Jobst, for example, explains oiling the spoke threads in his book
    and even includes an oil can in the drawing of the parts and tools
    needed to build a wheel.

    I think Trevor is questioning the lubrication of the spoke nipple to
    rim socket interface. This is where the main torque of spoke
    adjustment arises and causes people to round off the flats on spoke
    nipples.

    Jobst Brandt
    [email hidden]

    Dear Jobst,

    You're dead right about the slight force on the spiral ramp
    of the threads, which I dismissed.

    And you may be right, too, about which particular points of
    lubrication startle Trevor, but I'm just guessing about the
    source of his surprise.

    In any case, I mentioned oiling only the threads of the
    spokes and neglected the part where the nipple meets the
    rim. Since you invariably mention both places when
    describing wheel building, that was sloppy of me, so sorry
    about that.

    Carl Fogel

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