Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Spoke Question

Started by ejay · · Last activity · 8 posts · 1,497 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
25 March 2005
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26 March 2005
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ejay
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  1. I have a Giant Cypress DX (2001). I'm a big boy (250lbs). I have a problem with my rear wheel. I break a lot of spokes just riding on a paved path. In fact, I break about one spoke every 2-3 rides (and since I ride every day that's about one spoke every 2-3 days).

    My local shop has trued the wheel, but I don't think they know what they are doing. The spoke tension on one side is clearly higher than the other and the wheel is slightly out of round. In fact, if you set the pitch of all the spokes to be about equal (I do it by ear as I have a good musical ear), then the rim sits about 1/4 inch off center from the hub. To line the rim up means you have to really up the tension on one side. Is this normal? I thought a properly trued wheel was round, ran in one geometric plane, and had substantially the same tension on every spoke.

    Anyway, I'm not the greatest rider and I don't race. I ride for the exercise. So I just want the wheel true so it doesn't rub the break pads when I ride and I don't want my spokes breaking. So, are there heavy duty spokes I can buy? I'd rather pay $2 a spoke once and have the wheel relaced rather than keep buying generic spokes and be constantly working on the bike rather than riding it.

  2. ejay said:

    I have a Giant Cypress DX (2001). I'm a big boy (250lbs). I have a problem with my rear wheel. I break a lot of spokes just riding on a paved path. In fact, I break about one spoke every 2-3 rides (and since I ride every day that's about one spoke every 2-3 days).

    My local shop has trued the wheel, but I don't think they know what they are doing. The spoke tension on one side is clearly higher than the other and the wheel is slightly out of round. In fact, if you set the pitch of all the spokes to be about equal (I do it by ear as I have a good musical ear), then the rim sits about 1/4 inch off center from the hub. To line the rim up means you have to really up the tension on one side. Is this normal? I thought a properly trued wheel was round, ran in one geometric plane, and had substantially the same tension on every spoke.

    Anyway, I'm not the greatest rider and I don't race. I ride for the exercise. So I just want the wheel true so it doesn't rub the break pads when I ride and I don't want my spokes breaking. So, are there heavy duty spokes I can buy? I'd rather pay $2 a spoke once and have the wheel relaced rather than keep buying generic spokes and be constantly working on the bike rather than riding it.


    Yes, the rear wheel has higher tension in all drive side spokes to center the rim.
    Yes, there are higher quality spokes and higher quality builds that will keep a person your size fron breaking spokes that often. You also might need a stronger rim.
    High quality spokes don't need to be heavier to do the job for a 250 lb. rider. A strong rim, high quality build, using high quality spokes will insure thousands of miles of trouble free riding.
    Spoke tension balance on a per side basis in the rear wheel is one good measure. However, spoke alignment, Stress Relieving, spoke quality, spoke pattern, rim strength, and overall build quality will make a huge difference in the reliability and durability of the wheel.
    Are you using rim or disc brakes?
    What rim are you using?
    Are all the spokes breaking on the same side?

  3. ejay said:

    I have a Giant Cypress DX (2001). I'm a big boy (250lbs). I have a problem with my rear wheel. I break a lot of spokes just riding on a paved path. In fact, I break about one spoke every 2-3 rides (and since I ride every day that's about one spoke every 2-3 days).

    My local shop has trued the wheel, but I don't think they know what they are doing. The spoke tension on one side is clearly higher than the other and the wheel is slightly out of round. In fact, if you set the pitch of all the spokes to be about equal (I do it by ear as I have a good musical ear), then the rim sits about 1/4 inch off center from the hub. To line the rim up means you have to really up the tension on one side. Is this normal? I thought a properly trued wheel was round, ran in one geometric plane, and had substantially the same tension on every spoke.

    Anyway, I'm not the greatest rider and I don't race. I ride for the exercise. So I just want the wheel true so it doesn't rub the break pads when I ride and I don't want my spokes breaking. So, are there heavy duty spokes I can buy? I'd rather pay $2 a spoke once and have the wheel relaced rather than keep buying generic spokes and be constantly working on the bike rather than riding it.

    Have you been riding on that wheel steadily since 2001? That wheel was probably a machine built, mid-range (at best) wheel to begin with. Did you have the wheel trued and tensioned on a regular basis before you started popping spokes? If you've put a ton of miles on it and the wheel wasn't properly tensioned, it might be that the spokes are fatiguing and starting to reach their limit.

    If I were you I'd find a shop that has a good "wheel guy" on staff and bring the wheel in for a rebuild. Tell them how you ride, how much you weigh, etc. and explain the problems you're having to them. Have them rebuild the wheel for you the way that they recommend (again assuming this is a knowledgable wheel person). They'll probably lace it three-cross with heavier guage spokes and brass nipples. If they're good they'll tell you to come back after 100 miles or so for retensioning and maybe one more time after that even. Once you have got a properly built wheel and it's been tensioned properly, you probably won't have any more problems. I don't know what type of rim and hub you've got but build quality is the most importnant factor when it comes to durability.

  4. daveornee said:

    Yes, the rear wheel has higher tension in all drive side spokes to center the rim.
    Yes, there are higher quality spokes and higher quality builds that will keep a person your size fron breaking spokes that often. You also might need a stronger rim.
    High quality spokes don't need to be heavier to do the job for a 250 lb. rider. A strong rim, high quality build, using high quality spokes will insure thousands of miles of trouble free riding.
    Spoke tension balance on a per side basis in the rear wheel is one good measure. However, spoke alignment, Stress Relieving, spoke quality, spoke pattern, rim strength, and overall build quality will make a huge difference in the reliability and durability of the wheel.
    Are you using rim or disc brakes?
    What rim are you using?
    Are all the spokes breaking on the same side?

    Thanks for the answer Dave.

    The spokes are breaking about 2 or 3 to 1 on the non-drive side. Or stated another way, about every third or fourth spoke that breaks requires that the cassette be removed.

    I have stock rim-type brakes, a stock Hoopster rim, a stock rear hub, etc. Everything is stock.

    For what it's worth, my bike shop guys tell me they don't know why the spokes are breaking.

    Oh, sometimes they break on a hazard, and more frequently they break when I accelerate. By the end of last summer I was riding 25 miles a day and averaging about 14 mph (range of about 11mph to 22 mph). I guess trying to move all that mass...something had to give.

    Do you or any one else recommend a spoke brand? I've been just buying the 40-cent generics.

    Thanks,
    Ed

  5. ejay said:

    Thanks for the answer Dave.

    The spokes are breaking about 2 or 3 to 1 on the non-drive side. Or stated another way, about every third or fourth spoke that breaks requires that the cassette be removed.

    I have stock rim-type brakes, a stock Hoopster rim, a stock rear hub, etc. Everything is stock.

    For what it's worth, my bike shop guys tell me they don't know why the spokes are breaking.

    Oh, sometimes they break on a hazard, and more frequently they break when I accelerate. By the end of last summer I was riding 25 miles a day and averaging about 14 mph (range of about 11mph to 22 mph). I guess trying to move all that mass...something had to give.

    Do you or any one else recommend a spoke brand? I've been just buying the 40-cent generics.

    Thanks,
    Ed

    DT, Sapim, and Wheelsmith are the brands I have used with very good results.
    You may want to start with a stronger and stiffer rim + all new spokes.
    If a new wheel is in your plans or budget, make sure it is well built or at least well hand finished by someone who knows wheel building.
    I agree that those spokes from the original wheel are fatiguing and reaching their "cycle limit".
    A new rear wheel, with quality components and a quality build may be a good investment in time and money.
    A very stiff rim like Velocity Deep V with 32 or 36 spokes built 3 cross on a Deore or LX hub would serve you very well and give you thousands of miles without breaking spokes.
    Just remember; the quality of the build will endure as a good long term investment in trouble-free riding.
    Your weight puts a lot of force on all bicycle components. Spokes need to work together to handle the dynamic loads presented.

  6. ejay said:

    Thanks for the answer Dave.

    The spokes are breaking about 2 or 3 to 1 on the non-drive side. Or stated another way, about every third or fourth spoke that breaks requires that the cassette be removed.

    I have stock rim-type brakes, a stock Hoopster rim, a stock rear hub, etc. Everything is stock.

    For what it's worth, my bike shop guys tell me they don't know why the spokes are breaking.

    Oh, sometimes they break on a hazard, and more frequently they break when I accelerate. By the end of last summer I was riding 25 miles a day and averaging about 14 mph (range of about 11mph to 22 mph). I guess trying to move all that mass...something had to give.

    Do you or any one else recommend a spoke brand? I've been just buying the 40-cent generics.

    Thanks,
    Ed


    I'll second Dave's advice: it's time to spend some money on a high-quality, strong wheelset. A well-built wheel is a smart investment in trouble-free riding. Just replacing spokes isn't going to do anything but continue the problems you're having.

  7. daveornee said:

    DT, Sapim, and Wheelsmith are the brands I have used with very good results.
    You may want to start with a stronger and stiffer rim + all new spokes.
    If a new wheel is in your plans or budget, make sure it is well built or at least well hand finished by someone who knows wheel building.
    I agree that those spokes from the original wheel are fatiguing and reaching their "cycle limit".
    A new rear wheel, with quality components and a quality build may be a good investment in time and money.
    A very stiff rim like Velocity Deep V with 32 or 36 spokes built 3 cross on a Deore or LX hub would serve you very well and give you thousands of miles without breaking spokes.
    Just remember; the quality of the build will endure as a good long term investment in trouble-free riding.
    Your weight puts a lot of force on all bicycle components. Spokes need to work together to handle the dynamic loads presented.


    Thanks Dave (and everyone). I'm on it. Equipement recommendations sound good.

  8. ejay said:

    Thanks Dave (and everyone). I'm on it. Equipement recommendations sound good.

    If you want a rough idea of what a new wheelset will cost you. There is an independent bike shop in Pennsylvania called Speed Goat. At their website, speedgoat.comspeedgoat.com - they have a wheel build calculator. You can choose from assorted road and MTB components to work out a cost. And, well, if you like what you see, I guess you could order from them.

    I used to live in PA and this shop has a good reputation.

    good luck!

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