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Spoke Length for wheel build

Started by CAD2 · · Last activity · 10 posts · 2,631 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
2 December 2008
Last activity
4 December 2008
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CAD2
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  1. Hello Guys,

    I need help with regard to building a new wheelset. I have Mavic Open Pro rims with Shimano Ultegra '08, 10 speed, 32 hole front and rear hubs, DT Comp 2.0/1.8 spokes. I am lacing a 3X pattern front and rear. I got hold of some 296mm for the front, laced them up but they are too loose. [img]cycling.net.aumad.gif[/img]

    I know I need something shorter but does anybody have experience with these components and know the exact spoke lenghts for front and rear 3X??

    Thanks for any help.[img]cycling.net.ausmile.gif[/img]

  2. CAD2 said:

    Hello Guys,

    I need help with regard to building a new wheelset. I have Mavic Open Pro rims with Shimano Ultegra '08, 10 speed, 32 hole front and rear hubs, DT Comp 2.0/1.8 spokes. I am lacing a 3X pattern front and rear. I got hold of some 296mm for the front, laced them up but they are too loose. [img]cycling.net.aumad.gif[/img]

    I know I need something shorter but does anybody have experience with these components and know the exact spoke lenghts for front and rear 3X??

    Thanks for any help.[img]cycling.net.ausmile.gif[/img]

    DT Swiss have a 'spoke calculator' on their website.

    For hubs, select 'other' and then your Shimano hubset. For rims, select "other" and then Mavic Open Pro.

    Select the type of spoke using, the number of holes and the number of crosses (0 for radial, etc...) and then the nipple being used.

    It will tell you what you need.

  3. CAD2 said:

    Hello Guys,

    I need help with regard to building a new wheelset. I have Mavic Open Pro rims with Shimano Ultegra '08, 10 speed, 32 hole front and rear hubs, DT Comp 2.0/1.8 spokes. I am lacing a 3X pattern front and rear. I got hold of some 296mm for the front, laced them up but they are too loose. [img]cycling.net.aumad.gif[/img]

    I know I need something shorter but does anybody have experience with these components and know the exact spoke lenghts for front and rear 3X??

    Thanks for any help.[img]cycling.net.ausmile.gif[/img]


    It seems you are starting with with correct spoke length, so I don't understand why it isn't working for you. 294 mm for right rear and 296 mm for left rear.
    I have built at least 10 pair with those hubs and rims, always using 296 mm front and left rear for 32H 3X and 294 mm for 32H right rear 3X.

  4. CAD2 said:

    Hello Guys,

    I need help with regard to building a new wheelset. I have Mavic Open Pro rims with Shimano Ultegra '08, 10 speed, 32 hole front and rear hubs, DT Comp 2.0/1.8 spokes. I am lacing a 3X pattern front and rear. I got hold of some 296mm for the front, laced them up but they are too loose. [img]cycling.net.aumad.gif[/img]

    I know I need something shorter but does anybody have experience with these components and know the exact spoke lenghts for front and rear 3X??

    Thanks for any help.[img]cycling.net.ausmile.gif[/img]

    I use 293/295 for the rear and 296 for the front..not sure why 296 aren't working.

    Ya sure they were 296?

  5. Thanks for the quick reply guys I really appreciate.
    Dave and Peter I have read alot of your comments on the forum so I know you guys really know your stuff.

    You guys are right, it appears the 296 length is OK, I thought you couldn't tighten the nipple past the visible part of the thread but this is not the case, I now have tension in my spokes. As this is my first wheelbuild please excuse my brain fade.

    On the rear I will be using 296 non drive side, 294 drive side as suggested. Do you guys reckon a dishing tool is a must for wheel building? I don't have one but am looking at getting one. I have a Park Tool Tension meter.

    Again thanks for your replies.[img]cycling.net.auicon7.gif[/img]

  6. Quoted post said:


    You don't need a dishing tool. Reverse the wheel in the frame or in your jig to check centering.

  7. CAD2 said:


    On the rear I will be using 296 non drive side, 294 drive side as suggested. Do you guys reckon a dishing tool is a must for wheel building? I don't have one but am looking at getting one. I have a Park Tool Tension meter.

    You need a dishing tool before you need a tension meter.

    In fact you don't need a tension meter... but a dishing tool makes checking the dish very quick and easy.

  8. CAD2 said:

    Thanks for the quick reply guys I really appreciate.
    Dave and Peter I have read alot of your comments on the forum so I know you guys really know your stuff.

    You guys are right, it appears the 296 length is OK, I thought you couldn't tighten the nipple past the visible part of the thread but this is not the case, I now have tension in my spokes. As this is my first wheelbuild please excuse my brain fade.

    On the rear I will be using 296 non drive side, 294 drive side as suggested. Do you guys reckon a dishing tool is a must for wheel building? I don't have one but am looking at getting one. I have a Park Tool Tension meter.

    Again thanks for your replies.[img]cycling.net.auicon7.gif[/img]

    You can check dish by turning the wheel around or in a frame you know is straight BUT if you are going to build a few wheels, a dishing tool is a good idea.

    We all started on our 'first wheelbuild', so don't worry. Each is unique and it never ceases to be interesting and enjoyable, even after about 23 years for me. Of the bike things I do, wheelbuilding is by far the most satisfying.

  9. See the links for spoke calculation as well as the other sage advice in this wheel building article by the late great Sheldon Brown:

    sheldonbrown.comwheelbuild.html

  10. Damon Rinard's spoke length calculator is excellent. Just keep a careful eye on "spoke number", because the default is usually not what you want and it makes a big difference to the spoke length.

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