a bike tools catalog came in the mail and amung the several hehehe tools to make me faster, more coherent, and effective, including a positive lock valve head,and better looking after that one, there was the SPOKE HEAD PUNCH. The old pipe's rear hub's spoke holes are always wearing. I file before inserting new spokes but here is another approach: banging on the spoke heads to fit the spoke into the hub.
"Graviora quaedam sunt remedia periculis." - Syrus
Quoted message said:
a bike tools catalog came in the mail and amung the several hehehe tools to make me faster, more coherent, and effective, including a positive lock valve head,and better looking after that one, there was the SPOKE HEAD PUNCH. The old pipe's rear hub's spoke holes are always wearing. I file before inserting new spokes but here is another approach: banging on the spoke heads to fit the spoke into the hub.
I do a fair amount of wheel work and have never found myself wanting for one.
------------------------------- John Dacey Business Cycles, Miami, Florida http://www.businesscycles.com Since 1983 Our catalog of track equipment: online since 1996 -------------------------------
"Graviora quaedam sunt remedia periculis." - Syrus
Quoted message said:
a bike tools catalog came in the mail and amung the several hehehe tools to make me faster, more coherent, and effective, including a positive lock valve head,and better looking after that one, there was the SPOKE HEAD PUNCH. The old pipe's rear hub's spoke holes are always wearing. I file before inserting new spokes but here is another approach: banging on the spoke heads to fit the spoke into the hub. any comments on various uses of this tool?
In article <[email hidden]>, Meccanico di Bici <[email hidden]> says...
Quoted message said:
they work well. If a spoke head ain't sitting nice against the flange, a wee tap with the punch and bam-bam makes it better.
I use a normal, everyday pin punch. I just dig one of appropriate size out of my non-bike tool box. The DT spoke head punch has a concave treatment on the business end. They are, therefore less prone to slipping off the spoke head and damaging the hub.
In article <[email hidden]>, Meccanico di Bici <[email hidden]> says...
Quoted message said:
they work well. If a spoke head ain't sitting nice against the flange, a wee tap with the punch and bam-bam makes it better.
Greg Estep said:
I use a normal, everyday pin punch. I just dig one of appropriate size out of my non-bike tool box. The DT spoke head punch has a concave treatment on the business end. They are, therefore less prone to slipping off the spoke head and damaging the hub.
Just curious. Can you recall a specific hub/spoke where a good hard squeeze and maybe a little coaxing didn't pull the spokes properly into the flange? I build a lot of Campagnolo and Phil, a lot of Suzue and a little Shimano with Asahi, Sapim, Wheelsmith, DT all 14 butted and never ran across that problem.
-- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
In article <[email hidden]>, A Muzi <[email hidden]> says...
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
In article <[email hidden]>, Meccanico di Bici <[email hidden]> says...
Quoted message said:
they work well. If a spoke head ain't sitting nice against the flange, a wee tap with the punch and bam-bam makes it better.
Greg Estep said:
I use a normal, everyday pin punch. I just dig one of appropriate size out of my non-bike tool box. The DT spoke head punch has a concave treatment on the business end. They are, therefore less prone to slipping off the spoke head and damaging the hub.
Just curious. Can you recall a specific hub/spoke where a good hard squeeze and maybe a little coaxing didn't pull the spokes properly into the flange? I build a lot of Campagnolo and Phil, a lot of Suzue and a little Shimano with Asahi, Sapim, Wheelsmith, DT all 14 butted and never ran across that problem.
I can recall one such "problem" spoke. However, I don't recall any of the specific parts that were involved. It wasn't sitting well in the flange after the wheel had been through a couple of rounds of tension- squeeze-true. The other spokes I've whacked were fairly early on in my wheel building adventures, when it was just one of those things that seemed like a good idea at the time.
"Can you recall a specific hub/spoke where a..." a worn hub with elongated holes? does squeezing and tightening completely seat worn hole spokes?
one whack with the tool beats several hundred tightenings and loosenings under load- but seems the tool is meant only for the spoke head side not the spoke side
"Can you recall a specific hub/spoke where a..." a worn hub with elongated holes? does squeezing and tightening completely seat worn hole spokes?
one whack with the tool beats several hundred tightenings and loosenings under load- but seems the tool is meant only for the spoke head side not the spoke side
Apart from whatever recreational satisfaction is derived by whacking something with a mallet, I don't think the spoke head punch offers much.
If a spoke head doesn't seat well in its designated hole in the hub flange after the manipulations detailed by Andy Muzi, that spoke should be removed (and replaced if necessary) to make sure its elbow hadn't become malformed from either original manufacture or artless lacing. Lashing out at it with a punch and hammer is punitive but not remedial. ------------------------------- John Dacey Business Cycles, Miami, Florida Since 1983 Comprehensive catalogue of track equipment: online since 1996. http://www.businesscycles.com
a bike tools catalog came in the mail and amung the several hehehe tools to make me faster, more coherent, and effective, including a positive lock valve head,and better looking after that one, there was the SPOKE HEAD PUNCH. The old pipe's rear hub's spoke holes are always wearing. I file before inserting new spokes but here is another approach: banging on the spoke heads to fit the spoke into the hub.
Just curious. Can you recall a specific hub/spoke where a good hard squeeze and maybe a little coaxing didn't pull the spokes properly into the flange? I build a lot of Campagnolo and Phil, a lot of Suzue and a little Shimano with Asahi, Sapim, Wheelsmith, DT all 14 butted and never ran across that problem.
I just did a DA and a Chorus where the punch was needed. Not on all of the heads but a few to get the head flush.