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Splined-sprocket fixie hub

Started by Adam Rush · · Last activity · 10 posts · 734 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
10 June 2004
Last activity
11 June 2004
Original author
Adam Rush
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  1. Is there such a thing as a fixie hub which accepts
    splined sprockets
    (e.g. Sachs, Shimano, S-A)? I know there are many cheap
    threaded and lockringed options, but I have so many
    dreigang sprockets laying around.

    Is there a reason this not feasible or popular--other than
    the fact that they only go to 15-tooth?

  2. David L. Johnson said:
    Adam Rush said:

    Is there such a thing as a fixie hub which accepts splined
    sprockets
    (e.g. Sachs, Shimano, S-A)? I know there are many cheap
    threaded and lockringed options, but I have so many
    dreigang sprockets laying around.

    Is there a reason this not feasible or popular--other than
    the fact that they only go to 15-tooth?

    I have seen such a thing, but IIRC it was its own spline
    pattern, not designed to fit, say, a Shimano cassette cog.

    made by Miche

    /Marten

  3. Miche's design is only for their splined cogs & they seriously missed the
    mark with their design as instead of saving the hubs main thread you end up
    using the lockring thread instead. Ideally they should have built a lockring
    into their steel boss instead of relying on the hub's.
    "m-gineering" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    David L. Johnson said:
    Adam Rush said:

    Is there such a thing as a fixie hub which accepts
    splined sprockets
    (e.g. Sachs, Shimano, S-A)? I know there are many cheap
    threaded and lockringed options, but I have so
    many dreigang sprockets laying around.

    Is there a reason this not feasible or popular--other
    than the fact that they only go to 15-tooth?

    I have seen such a thing, but IIRC it was its own
    spline pattern, not designed to fit, say, a Shimano
    cassette cog.

    made by Miche

    /Marten

  4. On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 20:49:50 +0800, "Steve" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Miche's design is only for their splined cogs & they
    seriously missed the mark with their design as instead of
    saving the hubs main thread you end up using the lockring
    thread instead. Ideally they should have built a lockring
    into their steel boss instead of relying on the hub's.

    If the lockring were part of the adaptor, there'd be nothing
    to prevent the adaptor from unscrewing from the hubshell if
    (when) significant reverse force is applied. There's a
    picture (~56k) of the Miche system at

    businesscycles.comtcog miche4.jpg

    On the hub in the photo, a sprocket adaptor (lower left) has
    been threaded onto the hub's sprocket threads and the
    splined sprocket (lower right) pressed on the adaptor. The
    lockring (upper right), once fitted, will keep the sprocket
    in place and prevent the adaptor from unthreading in the
    event of back pressure.

    The page on which this photo appears is businesscycles.comtcog
    miche.htm

    John
    -------------------------------
    John Dacey Business Cycles, Miami, Florida Since 1983 Our
    catalogue of track equipment: online since 1996.
    businesscycles.combusinesscycles.com

  5. John Dacey <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:


    The page on which this [miche splined track cog] photo
    appears is businesscycles.comtcog miche.htm

    wow, i knew it existed, but didnt know how it worked. i wish
    there was a version of these that accepted shimano cassette
    cogs, maybe with a spacer between the cog and the lockring
    as necessary. would be simple enough. are the shimano cog
    splines uniform enough to be able to make a splined body
    that would reliably accept them with a tight (press) fit?

    maybe something for Surly to make?

    anthony

  6. "John Dacey" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Steve said:

    Miche's design is only for their splined cogs & they
    seriously missed the mark with their design as instead of
    saving the hubs main thread you end


    up

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    using the lockring thread instead. Ideally they should
    have built a


    lockring

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    into their steel boss instead of relying on the hub's.

    If the lockring were part of the adaptor, there'd be
    nothing to prevent the adaptor from unscrewing from the
    hubshell if (when) significant reverse force is applied.
    There's a picture (~56k) of the Miche system at

    businesscycles.comtcog miche4.jpg

    On the hub in the photo, a sprocket adaptor (lower left)
    has been threaded onto the hub's sprocket threads and the
    splined sprocket (lower right) pressed on the adaptor. The
    lockring (upper right), once fitted, will keep the
    sprocket in place and prevent the adaptor from unthreading
    in the event of back pressure.

    The page on which this photo appears is businesscycles.comtcog
    miche.htm


    I use this system and it's fantastic in that gear changes
    can be made much faster (and with less mess). Additionally,
    the Miche lockring mates perfectly with the 6-prong Shimano
    Durace BB lockring tool (for the 9sp BB). As the chain's
    force isn't being applied through the lockring (assuming
    there's nothing horribly wrong with your chainline) this
    lockring design isn't any worse or better than a standard
    track cog set-up. (as you still need to un-do and do-up the
    lockring just as often, its just that you then don't have to
    un-do and do-up on the hub's sprocket thread all the time
    too). Throw your chain-whip away..... The Miche crankset
    also save times changing gear as the chainring bolts thread
    directly into the crank arm, so you don't mave to muck about
    looking for the backs of the chainring bolts on the floor.
    Someone reported on aus.bicycle that they had managed to rip
    some of the chainring bolts' heads off, but the thread in
    the crank was undamaged. I don't know what happens if you
    strip the thread in the crank.....

    Cheers Gemma Gemma

  7. Gemma Kernich said:

    The Miche crankset also save times changing gear as the
    chainring bolts thread directly into the crank arm, so you
    don't mave to muck about looking for the backs of the
    chainring bolts on the floor. Someone reported on
    aus.bicycle that they had managed to rip some of the
    chainring bolts' heads off, but the thread in the crank
    was undamaged. I don't know what happens if you strip the
    thread in the crank.....

    I suppose you just clear the swarf out of the stripped
    threads and use conventional two-piece bolts.

    James Thomson

  8. ant said:

    John Dacey <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:


    The page on which this [miche splined track cog] photo
    appears is businesscycles.comtcog miche.htm

    Quoted message said:

    wow, i knew it existed, but didnt know how it worked. i
    wish there was a version of these that accepted shimano
    cassette cogs, maybe with a spacer between the cog and the
    lockring as necessary. would be simple enough. are the
    shimano cog splines uniform enough to be able to make a
    splined body that would reliably accept them with a tight
    (press) fit?

    Quoted message said:

    maybe something for Surly to make?

    The ID of a Shimano splined cog is about 32mm, while the
    threads on a track hub/cog are 1.375", about 35mm. So
    there's no way to make that work with a threaded-on adaptor
    like the Miche unit (unless the adaptor sticks rightward
    beyond the threads, which has a new set of problems). I
    assume the extra diameter of the adaptor is also why the
    Miche cogs only go down to 14t.

    Conceivably someone could make a fixed splined hub that
    accepted Shimano cogs held on by a lockring, shades of
    Uniglide. I think the splined part (the non-freehub) would
    have to be steel, aluminum would get severely notched.

    BTW, if you use Shimano cogs for singlespeed applications,
    Uniglide or BMX cogs are preferred - Hyperglide cogs have
    short deformed teeth for easier chain derailment.

  9. James Thomson said:
    Gemma Kernich said:

    I don't know what happens if you strip the thread in the
    crank.....

    Quoted message said:

    I suppose you just clear the swarf out of the stripped
    threads and use conventional two-piece bolts.

    Or maybe enlarge the hole and put in helicoils.

    --
    Dave dvt at psu dot edu

  10. On 11 Jun 2004 00:46:10 -0800, Benjamin Weiner <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    ant said:

    John Dacey <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:


    The page on which this [miche splined track cog] photo
    appears is businesscycles.comtcog miche.htm

    Quoted message said:

    wow, i knew it existed, but didnt know how it worked. i
    wish there was a version of these that accepted shimano
    cassette cogs, maybe with a spacer between the cog and
    the lockring as necessary. would be simple enough. are
    the shimano cog splines uniform enough to be able to make
    a splined body that would reliably accept them with a
    tight (press) fit?

    Quoted message said:

    maybe something for Surly to make?

    The ID of a Shimano splined cog is about 32mm, while the
    threads on a track hub/cog are 1.375", about 35mm. So
    there's no way to make that work with a threaded-on adaptor
    like the Miche unit (unless the adaptor sticks rightward
    beyond the threads, which has a new set of problems). I
    assume the extra diameter of the adaptor is also why the
    Miche cogs only go down to 14t.

    Conceivably someone could make a fixed splined hub that
    accepted Shimano cogs held on by a lockring, shades of
    Uniglide. I think the splined part (the non-freehub) would
    have to be steel, aluminum would get severely notched.

    BTW, if you use Shimano cogs for singlespeed applications,
    Uniglide or BMX cogs are preferred - Hyperglide cogs have
    short deformed teeth for easier chain derailment.

    The steel spline needs to be fixed to an alloy hubshell (or
    alloy flanges need to be fixed to a steel
    spline/barrel/bearing carrier) in a way which can transmit
    the torque from the sprocket to the spokes. The Miche system
    does this nicely without a hub redesign, with the minor
    inconvenience of restricting you to a 14t minimum. The
    advantage of quick and easy sprocket changes, together with
    reduced wear and tear on the sprocket thread, makes it very
    attractive. The sprockets seem nicely made, and even
    including the carrier they're cheaper at my LBS than either
    Dura Ace or Suntour. I'm not sure the Shimano cassette
    spline lends itself to being made close enough fitting to
    avoid backlash. Adventurous home mechanics might also try
    fitting a sprocket onto an ISO 6-bolt disc hub, apparently
    you only need 3 bolts for small sprockets, though this is
    still more work to change than the Miche.

    I concur about the BMX (DX) sprockets; they're cheap and
    widely available, though I bet the expensive and hard to
    come by King Kogs are even better on your singlespeed.

    Kinky Cowboy*

    *Batteries not included May contain traces of nuts Your
    milage may vary

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