Ok, so I picked up a Burley Taiko recently (my first recumbent) and have been loving it (the DF cannondale gathers dust), and am now starting to load it up with accy's.
I picked up a "cateye" cc-cd100 unit that does speed/cadence and all the other wizz-bang stuff, but now that I have it I don't see how I can mount it in a place that I can see and still get both sensors mounted where they need to go (cables seem a bit short).
So was wondering what others have done with my type of 'bent as far as mounting computers and their sensors?
In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
Ok, so I picked up a Burley Taiko recently (my first recumbent) and have been loving it (the DF cannondale gathers dust), and am now starting to load it up with accy's.
I picked up a "cateye" cc-cd100 unit that does speed/cadence and all the other wizz-bang stuff, but now that I have it I don't see how I can mount it in a place that I can see and still get both sensors mounted where they need to go (cables seem a bit short).
So was wondering what others have done with my type of 'bent as far as mounting computers and their sensors?
The best computer with cadence for recumbents is probably the Cateye Astrale. The Cadence sensor goes on the derailleur post, the speed sensor goes on the front fork. The readout display goes on the H/B where you can switch display modes. If you do not have an Astrale, you need to extend the cable by splicing in additional wire of the necessary length. I find that headphone cables are usually the best wire to splice. I used to solder them but more recently I have been using telephone butt connectors from Radio Shack.
Have fun!
-- Cletus D. Lee Bacchetta Giro Lightning Voyager clee.orgclee.orgOpen ↗ - Bellaire, TX USA -
The best computer with cadence for recumbents is probably the Cateye Astrale. The Cadence sensor goes on the derailleur post, the speed sensor goes on the front fork. The readout display goes on the H/B where you can switch display modes. If you do not have an Astrale, you need to extend the cable by splicing in additional wire of the necessary length. I find that headphone cables are usually the best wire to splice. I used to solder them but more recently I have been using telephone butt connectors from Radio Shack.
Well, the cc-cd100 is actually the Astrale. And it does look like a stretch for a Taiko.
I wouldn't try to splice the wires. They are pretty delicate. Maybe finaggle a mount further down the stem?
The best computer with cadence for recumbents is probably the Cateye Astrale. The Cadence sensor goes on the derailleur post, the speed sensor goes on the front fork. The readout display goes on the H/B where you can switch display modes. If you do not have an Astrale, you need to extend the cable by splicing in additional wire of the necessary length. I find that headphone cables are usually the best wire to splice. I used to solder them but more recently I have been using telephone butt connectors from Radio Shack.
Well, the cc-cd100 is actually the Astrale. And it does look like a stretch for a Taiko.
I wouldn't try to splice the wires. They are pretty delicate. Maybe finaggle a mount further down the stem?
Mikael
Thanks Guys for replying so fast, yes you are correct Mikael , it is the Astrale that I bought, and yes the cables are too short to mount on the H/B , that is why I was asking as I just couldn't seem to get a handle on what should work , though splicing the wires is do-able as I am a electronic technician and have had experience doing that sort of thing with wires the size of hairs... Just didn't want to void my warranty if I had to send it back.
Curious though how mounting the cadence sensor on the derailleure post will be close enough to the pedal to get a signal (is it that sensitive?).
In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
"Cletus D. Lee" skrev
Quoted message said:
The best computer with cadence for recumbents is probably the Cateye Astrale...using telephone butt connectors from Radio Shack.
Well, the cc-cd100 is actually the Astrale. And it does look like a stretch for a Taiko.
I wouldn't try to splice the wires. They are pretty delicate. Maybe finaggle a mount further down the stem?
I wouldn't hesitate. Especially since I learned that I did not have to solderand could get durable connections with the telephone butt connectors. Maybe I am willing to live closer to the edge than you?
-- Cletus D. Lee Bacchetta Giro Lightning Voyager clee.orgclee.orgOpen ↗ - Bellaire, TX USA -
Curious though how mounting the cadence sensor on the derailleure post will be close enough to the pedal to get a signal (is it that sensitive?).
The sensor can be turned out quite a ways. Magnet goes on crankarm. Alternatively you can mount the magnet on a chainring. The distance from ring to post is shorter.
I wouldn't try to splice the wires. They are pretty delicate.
I've spliced several bike computer wires without problems. But you do need a mini soldering iron, flux core solder and a delicate touch to strip the wires. I slide heat shrink over the wires before I join them. One large piece over both wires, then a small piece for each join. Shrink the joins, then slide the large piece up over both joins and shrink it. For absolute waterproofing, smear some silicone into the ends of the shrink tube. The heat shrink tube (about 3 cms), provides support and strength to the join.
I installed Astrales out of the box on a small-medium GRR and a medium-large Ti Rush. No problem with either.
-- Gator Bob Siegel EasyRacers Ti Rush "Douglas Cole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Mikael Seierup said:
"Cletus D. Lee" skrev
Quoted message said:
The best computer with cadence for recumbents is probably the Cateye Astrale. The Cadence sensor goes on the derailleur post, the speed sensor goes on the front fork. The readout display goes on the H/B where you can switch display modes. If you do not have an Astrale, you need to extend the cable by splicing in additional wire of the necessary length. I find that headphone cables are usually the best wire to splice. I used to solder them but more recently I have been using telephone butt connectors from Radio Shack.
Well, the cc-cd100 is actually the Astrale. And it does look like a stretch for a Taiko.
I wouldn't try to splice the wires. They are pretty delicate. Maybe finaggle a mount further down the stem?
Mikael
Thanks Guys for replying so fast, yes you are correct Mikael , it is the Astrale that I bought, and yes the cables are too short to mount on the
H/B
Quoted message said:
, that is why I was asking as I just couldn't seem to get a handle on what should work , though splicing the wires is do-able as I am a electronic technician and have had experience doing that sort of thing with wires the size of hairs... Just didn't want to void my warranty if I had to send it back.
Curious though how mounting the cadence sensor on the derailleure post
will
Quoted message said:
be close enough to the pedal to get a signal (is it that sensitive?).
Douglas Cole <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
Ok, so I picked up a Burley Taiko recently (my first recumbent) and have been loving it (the DF cannondale gathers dust), and am now starting to load it up with accy's.
I picked up a "cateye" cc-cd100 unit that does speed/cadence and all the other wizz-bang stuff, but now that I have it I don't see how I can mount it in a place that I can see and still get both sensors mounted where they need to go (cables seem a bit short).
So was wondering what others have done with my type of 'bent as far as mounting computers and their sensors?
tia for any input 🙂
I also use an Astrale (cc-cd100). Out of the box I found the Astrale's wiring harness is a bit short for my Trice Micro. Cateye offers a "tandem length" harness. It's length (over 72"😉 allows me to have the speed sensor on the rear wheel, and the candence sensor up front.
The tandem length is a special order item from a LBS, but worth the wait (no splicing!)
I installed my Astrale on my Taiko without having to add any wire. Mounted the cadence sensor on the main tube ahead of the bottom bracket on the left side. I cut the mount off the sensor and glued it to a block of closed cell foam to shim it out to the proper distance.
Bear in mind that the Astrale's wires are very fine co-ax and therefore not at all easy to splice.
I am curious as to how it is that the wire is too short, though, unless Douglas is infeasibly tall. I have Astrales on my Baron - legslarry.crosswinds.netBaron.htmOpen ↗ - and Speedmachine - legslarry.crosswinds.netSpeedmachine.htmOpen ↗. Both have tiller steering and there's enough wire to reach a BB far enough away for a long-legged 6'3" rider. The speed sensor wire probably won't reach the rear wheel, but there's nothing to stop one from mounting it on the front wheel instead.
