Solid Threaded V-Brake MTB Fork?

wiredued said:

I don't want suspension on my MTB is there a solid fork that would work with the quill type handlebar stem and V-Brakes? It is the larger quill diameter (wider than a quarter). Thanks

You don't want a solid fork, you want a rigid fork. Threaded ones, which take quill-type stems are out there, but a quick google didn't throw one up. Might be that your simplest solution is to switch headset and stem too. You might try calling a few LBSes, someone might have a rigid threaded fork they haven't thrown out yet after someone has swapped to suspension.
I have one, but shipping would kill the deal for you.

Not a lot to choose from. I would probably just go with a fork with a threadless steerer. You'll need a headset and stem to go with it.

I have a rigid bike with a 1 1/8" threaded fork and the selection of stems is even worse than for the forks. 🙁

Oh yeah "Rigid" thanks for the correction🙂

I tried a threadless adapter with an adjustable stem but it was a hassle with the aerobars in the way. when I wanted to move the handlebars up getting the allen wrench in there to change the tilt was difficult. I like the quill better it is a quick adjustment to slide it down when I want to.
Bars picture by kiwiwire - Photobucket

I disabled the suspension for now with Tec screws but it might not be as road worthy now maybe it will be my dedicated indoor trainer.
Tec Screws picture by kiwiwire - Photobucket

Thanks for the replies

wiredued said:

...I disabled the suspension for now with Tec screws

Wow, that's a scary fix. You're loading those screws in shear,and they're probably running through fairly thin-walled structures - that's a serious engineering no-no. If you insist on keeping it on that level you really should do a more solid bodge of it. Rip the fork apart, replace the suspension element(My guess is either springs or elastomers) with something incompressible. Cut it to match half the fork's travel or so. When you have the fork resting on the now incompressible suspension elements, then you might get away with using screws like that, just to stop the fork from extending when the front wheel is off the ground.

I'd still recommend swapping to a suspension compensated rigid fork for a threadless headset. Doesn't have to cost much and will buy you a lot of peace of mind.

dabac said:

Wow, that's a scary fix. You're loading those screws in shear,and they're probably running through fairly thin-walled structures - that's a serious engineering no-no. If you insist on keeping it on that level you really should do a more solid bodge of it. Rip the fork apart, replace the suspension element(My guess is either springs or elastomers) with something incompressible. Cut it to match half the fork's travel or so. When you have the fork resting on the now incompressible suspension elements, then you might get away with using screws like that, just to stop the fork from extending when the front wheel is off the ground.

I'd still recommend swapping to a suspension compensated rigid fork for a threadless headset. Doesn't have to cost much and will buy you a lot of peace of mind.

Just wanted to see if you were paying attention I know I have to get a rigid fork now if I ever want to ride it outside without having a catastrophic failure in the back of my mind. For the winter it will be safe on the rollers atleast. Threadless is probably the best way to get it fixed.

dabac said:

Wow, that's a scary fix. You're loading those screws in shear,and they're probably running through fairly thin-walled structures - that's a serious engineering no-no. If you insist on keeping it on that level you really should do a more solid bodge of it. Rip the fork apart, replace the suspension element(My guess is either springs or elastomers) with something incompressible. Cut it to match half the fork's travel or so. When you have the fork resting on the now incompressible suspension elements, then you might get away with using screws like that, just to stop the fork from extending when the front wheel is off the ground.

I'd still recommend swapping to a suspension compensated rigid fork for a threadless headset. Doesn't have to cost much and will buy you a lot of peace of mind.

FWIW. I also recommend that you (wiredued) simply switch to a threadless fork ... it isn't as cumbersome as you seem to think ...

So, how many times are you (wiredued) adjusting-or-planning-to-adjust the stem OR bars?

Why didn't you simply remove the aerobars when you wanted to adjust the stem?

As far as finding a replacement fork with a threaded steerer -- are there any "thrift" stores within a reasonable distance from where you live? Almost any Hardtail from the 90s will have a suitable, threaded, MTB/(26"😉 fork + headset that you can cannibalize for your bike. You just need to ensure that the steerer on the cannibalized fork is long enough for your bike's head tube ... that is, the head tube on the 'thrift store' hardtail needs to be as long as the one on your bike.

I think that whether-or-not you want a suspension corrected fork depends on your bike's current head tube angle AND whether you plan to ride your bike on the road or off-road.

IF you buy a suitable threadless fork with a STEEL steerer, you can have SOME bike shops thread it ... however, the cost may be a bit steep-if-not-prohibitive ... about 10 years ago, the fee for threading a 1" steerer ranged from $5US to $25US per inch depending on the shop ... and, a ridiculous $75US at a machine shop.

BTW. You can probably subsitute 'oak' DOWEL rods of the appropriate diameter for the suspension components -- OR, cut the wood handle from a broom (put a band of metal around the ends if they don't fit snugly inside the fork).

Thanks my LBS guy seems to think they have what I need and he mentioned they would thread it for me. When I said the head tube is about 7 inches he said he had plenty of those😎