Slow leak--arrrrrgh!

Luigi de Guzman said:

So my front tire went flat again, due to a slow leak

I had thought that I'd fixed the puncture in question, but, no, a
corner of the patch hadn't stuck onto the tube properly, so was
causing a slow leak.

I'm just annoyed as all hell, because now since it's *badly* patched,
the leak is irreparable--the bits of the patch that I stuck on
CORRECTLY went on when they were supposed to, and can't be torn free
from the tube for love or money.

Ugh. You live, you learn.

-Luigi

Hi, I see these posts often and I don't understand why some people
have problems. I patched a tube today and in its place installed
another patched tube.

I know it has been described before, by those with more experience
than I, but Here is how I do it. I sand an area much larger than the
size of the patch. The same with the glue, I always cover a larger
area. Today, because I was home and could wash up, I used my finger to
spread the glue evenly. I wait until the glue is dry and apply the
patch. I try to use a flat surface, where I can press the patch down
evenly, with decent pressure. I press and hold it tight for probably
30-60 seconds. Done!

I have been using the Park Tool patches because that is what my LBS
carries, although today I used the kit that came with my NashbarBig
Tool Kit 2.

Why do you think your patch didn't hold?

Life is Good!
Jeff

Luigi de Guzman said:

So my front tire went flat again, due to a slow leak

I had thought that I'd fixed the puncture in question, but, no, a
corner of the patch hadn't stuck onto the tube properly, so was
causing a slow leak.

I'm just annoyed as all hell, because now since it's *badly* patched,
the leak is irreparable--the bits of the patch that I stuck on
CORRECTLY went on when they were supposed to, and can't be torn free
from the tube for love or money.

Ugh. You live, you learn.

-Luigi

Carry a spare tube. It is cheap insurance. If you mess up patching one you still have a spare. I've had problems of developing slow leaks in the tubes on my old Trek road bike (aluminum rims and presta valves). The leak starts where the valve stem passes through the rim. I've de-burred the rim holes. The only fix I've been able to come up with is cutting a hole in a patch and placing the patch over the valve stem before I put the stem through the hole in the rim. I leave the outside lock nut on the valve stem loose. So far no more problems. The rims on my 'bent are slightly different (still aluminum rims and presta valves), the valve stem hole is nicely machined and the valve stem fits like a glove. I've also had the presta valves leak a little even when the valve mechanism locking nut is tightened down (so far not on the 'bent though).

'bent Brian

On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 23:19:23 -0500, Jeff Starr <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Why do you think your patch didn't hold?

Didn't sand a large enough area of the tube. That's easily seen.

Yes, I know. I'm an idiot.

-Luigi

Wed, 21 Jul 2004 23:17:03 -0400,
<[email hidden]>, Luigi de Guzman

Quoted message said:

I'm just annoyed as all hell, because now since it's *badly* patched,
the leak is irreparable--the bits of the patch that I stuck on
CORRECTLY went on when they were supposed to, and can't be torn free
from the tube for love or money.

Ugh. You live, you learn.

In a recent protracted thread about patches, Jobst Brandt divulged
that patches can be removed with heat. I tried it on trashed tube and
it works a treat.
So, for love, your mom will let you use her iron. For money you can
buy your own at the thrift store.
A fairly hot setting will soften the glue sufficiently to remove the
patch easily.
--
zk

On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 23:32:44 -0700, Zoot Katz <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Wed, 21 Jul 2004 23:17:03 -0400,
<[email hidden]>, Luigi de Guzman

Quoted message said:

I'm just annoyed as all hell, because now since it's *badly* patched,
the leak is irreparable--the bits of the patch that I stuck on
CORRECTLY went on when they were supposed to, and can't be torn free
from the tube for love or money.

Ugh. You live, you learn.

In a recent protracted thread about patches, Jobst Brandt divulged
that patches can be removed with heat. I tried it on trashed tube and
it works a treat.
So, for love, your mom will let you use her iron. For money you can
buy your own at the thrift store.
A fairly hot setting will soften the glue sufficiently to remove the
patch easily.

How about heat gun or hair dryer?

Life is Good!
Jeff

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Why do you think your patch didn't hold?

Didn't sand a large enough area of the tube. That's easily seen.

Yes, I know. I'm an idiot.

-Luigi

A friend of mine told me that the reason you sand the tube is to remove a
powdery chemical residue from the tube. He claims that when tubes are made,
the chemical is put in the mold to allow the tubes to be removed easily. The
problem is that the glue for patches will not work on the residue. The residue
has to be removed first and that is done by sanding. I understand that you can
also remove it by using a little acetone. I have tried it and it seem to work
great. Of course, I still sand the tube just in case. Nothing like having a
backup.

Thu, 22 Jul 2004 08:09:47 -0500,
<[email hidden]>, Jeff Starr

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

A fairly hot setting will soften the glue sufficiently to remove the
patch easily.

How about heat gun or hair dryer?

How about you tell us?

I used a 165 watt heat sealing iron.

Lacking anything more sophisticated, I'd try an incandescent bulb.
--
zk

On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 09:30:37 -0700, Zoot Katz <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Thu, 22 Jul 2004 08:09:47 -0500,
<[email hidden]>, Jeff Starr

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

A fairly hot setting will soften the glue sufficiently to remove the
patch easily.

How about heat gun or hair dryer?

How about you tell us?

If I knew, why would I ask the question? I thought that you might
know how much heat, it actually took.

Quoted message said:

I used a 165 watt heat sealing iron.

Lacking anything more sophisticated, I'd try an incandescent bulb.

Wel, if you think a light bulb would work, then my guess is that a
heat gun would do just fine.

Life is Good!
Jeff

l

Thu, 22 Jul 2004 13:49:48 -0500,
<[email hidden]>, Jeff Starr

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

How about heat gun or hair dryer?

How about you tell us?

If I knew, why would I ask the question? I thought that you might
know how much heat, it actually took.

Quoted message said:

Uncomfortably hot to the touch.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I used a 165 watt heat sealing iron.

Lacking anything more sophisticated, I'd try an incandescent bulb.

Wel, if you think a light bulb would work, then my guess is that a
heat gun would do just fine.

I have neither a heat gun or hair dryer. If you do, try it.

I just tried a 75 watt light bulb. It did the job.
--
zk

Quoted message said:

A friend of mine told me that the reason you sand the tube is to remove a
powdery chemical residue from the tube.

talc... talcum powder... baby powder. so the tube doesnt stick to itself
in storage.

Pbwalther said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Why do you think your patch didn't hold?

Didn't sand a large enough area of the tube. That's easily seen.

Yes, I know. I'm an idiot.

-Luigi

A friend of mine told me that the reason you sand the tube is to remove a
powdery chemical residue from the tube. He claims that when tubes are made,
the chemical is put in the mold to allow the tubes to be removed easily. The
problem is that the glue for patches will not work on the residue. The residue
has to be removed first and that is done by sanding. I understand that you can
also remove it by using a little acetone. I have tried it and it seem to work
great. Of course, I still sand the tube just in case. Nothing like having a
backup.

your explanation works for me. I useta work in the fibreglass industry.
We would treat moulds with a very thin spray of stuff that let the
product pop away from the mould when encouraged by a shot of compressed air.
Makes sense to me. The rubber doesn't need to be roughened. It needs
to be chemically clean, so the glue can bond with the rubber with no
interference from the relaeasing compound, whatever it is.
Bernie

"Jeff Starr" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I patched a tube today and in its place installed
another patched tube.

...I sand an area much larger than the
size of the patch. The same with the glue, I always cover a larger
area.

Added tip: with a pen, mark around the hole at some distance from it, like
this, where "*" is the hole:

|

- * -

|

(looks best in fixed font)

This way, after you sand and glue a generous area like Jeff suggests, you
can still get an accurate visual read on where the hole is and you can be
sure to put the middle of the patch right over the hole.

"Zoot Katz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I just tried a 75 watt light bulb. It did the job.

Zoot! Never use a 75 watt bulb where a blowtorch could do the job with more
style!
Has Fabrizio taught you nothing?

bentbrian said:

Carry a spare tube. It is cheap insurance. If you mess up patching one
you still have a spare.

Or, the much ballyhooed, and really quite good, strategy of using
the spare tube for the first flat on the road, carrying the patch
kit only for a second flat in a single ride; then, patch the tubes
in bulk.
--
Rick Onanian