slipping BB/crank interface

andy-try 4 strips beer can aluminum-let the ends hang outboard and
trim.
let us know if this works!

Gene Daniels said:

andy-try 4 strips beer can aluminum-let the ends hang outboard and
trim.
let us know if this works!

When I've done this (not for paying customers!) I've just cut a small
piece of Coke can aluminum to cover two adjacent sides of the spindle.

This stuff is really easy to work, you can cut it with scissors.

I don't think you'd want it to overhang 'cause it would interfere with
the mounting bolt.

Grease everythign and Tighten the bejasus out of the bolt.

This has worked in the past, but I only do it on charity cases...

Sheldon "Coke, NOT Pepsi!" Brown
+----------------------------------------------------------+
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| I looked into the soul of the boy sitting next to me. |
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Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
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starsk said:

Have a 2001 K2 razorback with shimano square BB and race face cranks.
Left crank arm slips about 3-4 degrees even with bolt super tight.
have tried 2 slightly used left crankarms with new BB and same
slippage. any ideas here?? thanks, andy

Buy new cranks. Tighten bolts to the recommended torque. Check torque
after 50-100 miles then leave well alone.

Sheldon Brown said:

Sheldon "Coke, NOT Pepsi!" Brown

Heineken! Or, when a thicker shim is needed, Foster's.

(Of course, to use either of those I'd have to raid the neighbor's
recycling bin as mine contains only cola cans, and those were emptied
by the SO.) (But if I had my cola druthers, it would be Pepsi or
Mexican Coke, not domestic canned Coke.)
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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On 5 Apr 2005 09:20:10 -0700, "starsk" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Have a 2001 K2 razorback with shimano square BB and race face cranks.
Left crank arm slips about 3-4 degrees even with bolt super tight.

Are you sure that the bolt is getting tight and not just bottoming out
in the BB bore? Add a washer or two and recheck. (Don't ride with
washers in there on a serrated-flange bolt, though.)

Quoted message said:

have tried 2 slightly used left crankarms with new BB and same
slippage. any ideas here?? thanks, andy

Different BB, different cranks, same end result? If the bolt's the
only part that has not been swapped, I suspect it's the problem. If
that, too, has been swapped, then you need to enlist the assistance of
a trained eye. Beware of the thread size of that bolt; it's 8x1.0mm
which is distressingly similar to SAE 5/16-24 in appearance. If the
latter has been substituted in error, the bolt may go in as much as 8
or 9 revolutions before it appears to tighten, but will never actually
clamp the arm in place.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

"Zog The Undeniable" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:4252c32d.0@entanet...

Quoted message said:

starsk wrote:

Buy new cranks. Tighten bolts to the recommended torque. Check torque
after 50-100 miles then leave well alone.

Re-torque with cranks where they are after 50-100 miles, or take them off
and re-install?
I seem to remember hearing that retorquing isn't recommended.

(I sense this season's first grease or not to grease spindle crank interface
coming.)

Gary Jacobson
Rosendale, NY with 100 miles on a Mavic VVT (?) crank.

Problem is fixed, some shims from a can of Miller High Life (I live in
milwaukee area, need to be true to the local boys), and different bolts
and it's good as new. thanks all for the advice. andy