silicone adhesive as electrical insulation?



D

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sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech

Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
an accident.

I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Goop is silicone adhesive -

Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
this low voltage flow?

The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
there?
 
[email protected] wrote:
> sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech
>
> Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
> an accident.
>
> I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
> epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
> computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
> to the bar mount at the epoxy block
>
> Goop is silicone adhesive -
>
> Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
> this low voltage flow?
>
> The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.
>
> If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
> insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
> there?

Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when fully
cured.
I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
cured, but I never checked.
I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.

Paul
 
[email protected] wrote:
> sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech
>
> Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
> an accident.
>
> I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
> epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
> computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
> to the bar mount at the epoxy block
>
> Goop is silicone adhesive -
>
> Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
> this low voltage flow?
>
> The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.
>
> If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
> insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
> there?

Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when fully
cured.
I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
cured, but I never checked.
I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.

Paul
 
In article <[email protected]>, "Paul" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech
>>
>> Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
>> an accident.
>>
>> I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
>> epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
>> computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
>> to the bar mount at the epoxy block
>>
>> Goop is silicone adhesive -
>>
>> Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
>> this low voltage flow?
>>
>> The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.
>>
>> If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
>> insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
>> there?
>
>Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when fully
>cured.
>I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
>cured, but I never checked.
>I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.

Rtv need not be capitalized. Goop is not silicone to me. Its more like a plastic.
I use the different Goops, including Shoe Goo, and I am not going to claim it
has no reaction to conections, but I don't think I have seen problems. If Goop is used in the sun,
it should contain UV inhibitors like Marine Goop has. Goop is one of the strongest
glues, but retains some flex. It takes several days for full cure. Silicone shuld have
no conductivity, allthough it is not a vapor block, where Goop may have a good
vapor lock. Electrical connections should be painted with enamel before
applying silicone.

greg
 
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (GregS) wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, "Paul"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>> sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech
>>>
>>> Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
>>> an accident.
>>>
>>> I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
>>> epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
>>> computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
>>> to the bar mount at the epoxy block
>>>
>>> Goop is silicone adhesive -
>>>
>>> Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
>>> this low voltage flow?
>>>
>>> The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.
>>>
>>> If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
>>> insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
>>> there?
>>
>>Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when fully
>>cured.
>>I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
>>cured, but I never checked.
>>I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.


By the way, I have applied HV before curing. it does well, but its
probably better when fully curred.Thats the Type I silicone.

greg

>Rtv need not be capitalized. Goop is not silicone to me. Its more like a
> plastic.
>I use the different Goops, including Shoe Goo, and I am not going to claim it
>has no reaction to conections, but I don't think I have seen problems. If Goop
> is used in the sun,
>it should contain UV inhibitors like Marine Goop has. Goop is one of the
> strongest
>glues, but retains some flex. It takes several days for full cure. Silicone
> shuld have
>no conductivity, allthough it is not a vapor block, where Goop may have a good
>vapor lock. Electrical connections should be painted with enamel before
>applying silicone.
>
>greg
 
Paul wrote:
>
> Any silicone (RTV) that I've worked with is a good insulator when fully
> cured.
> I wouldn't be surprised if it is somewhat conductive before it is
> cured, but I never checked.
> I never apply voltage until it is fully cured.
>
> Paul

Standard GE RTV silicone contains acetic acid which can cause
corrosion. They do make an electronic grade that is safe to use.

I once used standard RTV to cover the line voltage terminals on a power
transformer. I plugged it in before it was fully cured. This caused a
small explosion.which was more exciting than it was dangerous.
 
On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 10:33:21 -0700, datakoll Has Frothed:

> sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech
>
> Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during an
> accident.
>
> I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
> epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
> computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections to the
> bar mount at the epoxy block
>
> Goop is silicone adhesive -
>
> Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at this
> low voltage flow?
>
> The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.
>
> If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate insulation?
> What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best there?

100% Silicon rubber adhesive will work great. I've used it many times
where it came in contact with low and high voltages.


--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794
 
On 10 Oct 2006 10:33:21 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech
>
>Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
>an accident.
>
>I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
>epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
>computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
>to the bar mount at the epoxy block
>
>Goop is silicone adhesive -

Wrong. Goop is a polypropylene/solvent adhesive.

>Question is does the goop [non]silicone provide electrical insulation at
>this low voltage flow?

Yes, nicely.

>The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.

Look for solder joint failure or a subsequent wire failure elsewhere.

>If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
>insulation?

There is a brush-on electrical insulation coating available for this
exact purpose. I've obtained it at Home Depot and Ace Hardware.

>What are cateye bodies made of

I don't know; you would have to ask them. I'd expect it to be a
filled resin of some sort, but there are many candidates with varying
charcteristics.

>and what adhesive works best
>there?

That will be entirely dependent upon the resin involved.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...


> I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
> epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
> computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
> to the bar mount at the epoxy block

Did you try Liquid Solder?
 
wellll, i guess i'll do it over!
"Wrong. Goop is a polypropylene/solvent adhesive. "
does not goop write of goop as a silicone adhesive?
long underwear from duofold is polypropylene, and excellent.
thanks
 
On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 18:53:08 GMT, Werehatrack
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On 10 Oct 2006 10:33:21 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

[snip]

>>What are cateye bodies made of
>
>I don't know; you would have to ask them. I'd expect it to be a
>filled resin of some sort, but there are many candidates with varying
>charcteristics.

[snip]

Dear Gloucester,

If we're talking about the stuff inside that keeps the body of a
cateye nice and round, it's known as the vitreous humor:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitreous_humor

Eye surgeons fear the escape of this vile jelly when removing a cloudy
lens in a cat(aract) operation or any other surgery. "Losing vitreous"
is worse than seeing an inflated tire start to creep off the rim at
120 psi--tubes, after all, can be replaced. So eye cutters try to keep
the stuff pushed inside, where it belongs:

"Cataract surgery was once a much more invasive and hazardous
procedure than it is today. Large incisions and intracapsular lens
extractions were not uncommonly associated with significant vitreous
bulging and even vitreous loss. The situation is well described in
the words of Dr. Paul Honan (1), whose account of the development of
the Honan balloon can be found elsewhere in this issue of OASIS.
Suffice it to say that ocular compression was born of the fear of
losing vitreous during cataract surgery with its attendant
complications resulting in visual compromise or loss. That fear
exists to this day, especially when large incisions are required, as
in corneal transplant surgery and during the occasional ECCE."

http://www.eyeanesthesia.org/newsletter4.html

As for repairing an ordinary cyclocomputer, the easiest solution is to
stop by WalMart and get a new red $10 Schwinn cyclocomputer with a
fresh battery and a trip meter that reads in increments of 0.001
miles.

See you around,

Duke of Cornwall
 
On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 15:18:20 -0600, [email protected] wrote:

>On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 18:53:08 GMT, Werehatrack
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On 10 Oct 2006 10:33:21 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>[snip]
>
>>>What are cateye bodies made of
>>
>>I don't know; you would have to ask them. I'd expect it to be a
>>filled resin of some sort, but there are many candidates with varying
>>charcteristics.
>
>[snip]
>
>Dear Gloucester,
>
>If we're talking about the stuff inside that keeps the body of a
>cateye nice and round, it's known as the vitreous humor:
>
>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitreous_humor

My dear Duke:

Perhaps you may have mistaken the less useful orb (once removed from
its rightful place) for the more enjoyable one:

http://www.tias.com/cgi-bin/google.fcgi/itemKey=1922956560

Alas, once fractured, it is dashed difficult to heal with certainty
through the employment of any glue made by mortal man, though the
glass-blower's art might remold it somehow.

>As for repairing an ordinary cyclocomputer, the easiest solution is to
>stop by WalMart and get a new red $10 Schwinn cyclocomputer with a
>fresh battery and a trip meter that reads in increments of 0.001
>miles.

I am aghast! The mere concept of endorsing the use of a Red computer
is anathema to any left-thinking cyclist, and there is no other kind
with which it is permissible for those of good conscience to
associate.

And as has long been the case, the true gentleman will search long and
hard to locate a computer whose figures are presented in the more
seemly furlongs, a far more appropriate distance to use in judjing
progress aboard something that is ridden astride a saddle, would you
not agree? (Sadly, such devices seem in short supply, so a conversion
table is often needed in order to make sense of the mundane
indications available.)

Yours,

Gloucester
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
[email protected] wrote:
> sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech
>
> Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
> an accident.
>
> I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
> epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
> computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
> to the bar mount at the epoxy block

> If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
> insulation?

I thought Goop was waterless hand cleaner:

www.goophandcleaner.com/images/12cutout_200w.jpg

Have you considered epoxy?

Silicone rubber (RTV) is a good electrical insulator, as demonstrated
by the use of silicone rubber sheets as electrical insulators for power
transistors. But silicone RTV that smells like vinegar before it
cures can corrode metals, and if that's a concern, go to an auto parts
store and get some RTV labelled as being safe for use with oxygen
sensors.
 
[email protected] wrote:
> sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech
>
> Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
> an accident.
>
> I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
> epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
> computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
> to the bar mount at the epoxy block
>
> Goop is silicone adhesive -
>
> Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
> this low voltage flow?
>
> The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.
>
> If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
> insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
> there?

I don't know, but one thing's for sure; you sound a lot more coherent
than before the accident! Funny, usually it's the other way around.
Glad to hear you are okay.

Doug
 
<[email protected]> wrote: If we're talking about the stuff inside that
keeps the body of a cateye nice and round, it's known as the vitreous humor:
(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Dear Carl,
Your remark is vitreous humor humor.
Jokes about glazed ceramics would be vitreous humor.
Jokes about my first comment would be vitreous humor humor humor.
 
[email protected] wrote:
> sci.electronics.repair, rec.bicycles.tech
>
> Leads from the cateye enduro's cyclocomputer body snapped off during
> an accident.
>
> I tried soldering the new length of magnet pickup wires following the
> epoxy? block covering the pickup's connection pins molded into the
> computer's bar mount AND then Gooping the wire's solder connections
> to the bar mount at the epoxy block
>
> Goop is silicone adhesive -
>
> Question is does the goop silicone provide electrical insulation at
> this low voltage flow?
>
> The computer stopped recording data after 3-4 miles.
>
> If the Goop is a no go what adhesive is durable and adequate
> insulation? What are cateye bodies made of and what adhesive works best
> there?
>


I use clear silicone caulk as insulation on high voltage wiring, I've
tried it up to 30KV and it works great. Not sure about Goop but for low
voltage virtually anything will work.
 
[email protected] wrote:
> stupid question # 428
>
> if silicones insulate electrical wires then what are silicone spark
> plugs leads (wires)?
>


They're exactly what the name implies, spark plug leads with silicone
insulation.
 
[email protected] spake thus:

> stupid question # 428
>
> if silicones insulate electrical wires then what are silicone spark
> plugs leads (wires)?

The silicone is the insulator in them; the conductor is, usually,
carbon-impregnated fiber of some kind (basically a big long resistor).


--
Save the Planet
Kill Yourself

- motto of the Church of Euthanasia (http://www.churchofeuthanasia.org/)
 
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