Shortening seatpost

I wouldn't use a pipe cutter. They're great for metal posts, but there's a fair amount of crushing in their mode of operation which isn't that suited for CF. I'd use a fine tooth hacksaw instead. Regular tooth count is 24 TPI(which works too) but if you can get a 32TPI blade it'll cut smoother. Dremel and a cutoff disc is another option. Try to avoid the dust. Mark well. Wrapping masking tape and then cutting through the tape can help keep the cut smooth too. After cutting, sand smooth and bevel the edge a little.

But start with asking yourself this: is it worth it? you're looking to save what, maybe 20-50 grams?

Thanks there's some good ideas there. I want to shorten it because it is too long, it is 38cm long and doesn't go down far enough for me to be comfortable.

Remove as little as possible to insure the most post engagement. Just in case you go to sell the bike in the future the new owner will be able to raise the saddle to their desired position. Follow Dabac suggestions for cutting to lenght.

Thanks davereo, I have just done the deed following dabac suggestion. I wrapped masking tape around a few times, used a 32 hacksaw blade and cut off 3 cm about 1 inch. It worked a treat, especially after all the horror stories I had heard about splitting and fraying posts. Thanks for all the advice.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by Trev2112 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

.. I want to shorten it because it is too long, it is 38cm long and doesn't go down far enough for me to be comfortable.

OK, that makes perfect sense.

DO NOT USE A PIPE CUTTER!!!! I also wouldn't us a regular hacksaw blad, I'd use what is known as a grit blade or a rod blade. It's a rounded gritty looking blade that fits in a hacksaw. only costs a couple of bucks. I also build golf clubs and this is what we use to cut graphite shafts so that you don't split the graphite and get a nice smooth cut. now i have a belt sander/saw combo that i use.

Thanks, I used a 32TPI hacksaw blade with some masking tape wrapped around the stem, that worked with no splitting or fraying