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Shoes and pedals

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Cycling Equipment
Published
4 February 2006
Last activity
2 November 2015
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Paul Cassel
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  1. My first adult bicycle was a mountain style one. Following the advice of
    the LBS where I bought it, I also got the bottom end Shimano SPD pedals
    (very heavy and they don’t spin very well) and lace up Cannondale brand
    shoes. Later, when I added a road bike to my garage, I also bought an
    identical set of pedals mostly because they fit these shoes. While the
    road bike is fairly high end (by my standards) the pedals aren’t. Even I
    can see that.

    I note that most people I see who ride road bikes do so using Velcro
    strap shoes and different sort of cleats which protrude significantly
    from the sole of the shoe. Most of these shoes leave the wearer barely
    able to walk from his truck to get the bicycle off the rack. The
    advantage of my combination is that I can walk fairly well in these
    shoes. I’ve had to walk ‘back’ as much as 4 miles several times when I
    suffered bicycle breakdowns I was unable to address on site. While I’d
    not choose these shoes / cleats for hiking, the walking wasn’t that much
    of a chore.

    Clearly I need to upgrade my kit to address the breakdowns, but my query
    today is about the shoe / pedal combos. I’m curious to know what if
    anything I’d gain by switching to full on road shoes with high end
    pedals. A recent Bicycling magazine said that by moving to road shoes /
    pedals, my riding would be vastly improved (like an entirely new sport).
    Is this true? What does one gain by moving to a shoe with the cleat
    protruding so far from the shoe’s sole that walking is almost impossible?

    Specifically, the magazine recommended Shimano PD6601 (Ultegra) pedals
    and Shimano R151 shoes. Currently I have, IIRC, SPD 520 pedals and some
    Caonnondale brand shoe which I can’t read any information off of any
    more after several thousand miles of being in them.

    My only restrictions are that I’d like a lighter pedal as my road bike
    is lightweight so these pedals which feel like they mass more than 500 g
    sort of run contrary to the spirit of the road bike. I also have a wide
    forefoot so ‘Italian style’ shoes don’t work for me at all. The
    Cannondale shoes I have work ok. I’ve asked here so have a list of wider
    brand shoes such as Shimano making this Bicycling recommendation seem
    fairly reasonable.

    So what does one gain by using those ungainly road style shoes? How does
    one choose between the various cleat / pedal schemes which seem to be
    out there? Would a recreational rider benefit from moving from the low
    end SPD’s to some higher end combination or would I best be served by
    upgrading my road bike’s pedals to high end SPD style? If I did that I
    can keep the same shoes for all riding. TIA.

  2. Paul Cassel said:

    I note that most people I see who ride road bikes do so using Velcro strap
    shoes and different sort of cleats which protrude significantly from the
    sole of the shoe. Most of these shoes leave the wearer barely able to walk
    from his truck to get the bicycle off the rack. The advantage of my
    combination is that I can walk fairly well in these shoes. I’ve had to
    walk ‘back’ as much as 4 miles several times when I suffered bicycle
    breakdowns I was unable to address on site. While I’d not choose these
    shoes / cleats for hiking, the walking wasn’t that much of a chore.

    A recent Bicycling magazine said that by moving to road shoes / pedals, my
    riding would be vastly improved (like an entirely new sport).

    Hint: Don't believe ANYTHING you read in Bicycling magazine!

    Quoted message said:

    What does one gain by moving to a shoe with the cleat protruding so far
    from the shoe’s sole that walking is almost impossible?

    A larger cleat that makes walking difficult, wears out fast, slips on wet
    surfaces, and squeaks. Some will claim the "larger platform" eliminates
    "hot spots," but good stiff SPD shoes will not cause hot spots either.

    I rode Look pedals for many years (with Sidi Genius shoes) before switching
    to SPD. I've seen no difference in on-bike performance, but a great
    improvement in walking with the SPDs.

    The weight difference is not enough to make any difference unless you're
    attempting to set a new World Hour Record.

    If you're going for the "look," get Look pedals and shoes/ (Hmm, is that
    where they got the name?)

    Otherwise:
    http://bikemart.com/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=947&Catalog=39&sort=Price

    http://www.bikeworld.com/components/catalog/product.html?pid=545&cat=73

    Art Harris

  3. Paul Cassel said:

    My first adult bicycle was a mountain style one. Following the advice of
    the LBS where I bought it, I also got the bottom end Shimano SPD pedals
    (very heavy and they don't spin very well) and lace up Cannondale brand
    shoes. Later, when I added a road bike to my garage, I also bought an
    identical set of pedals mostly because they fit these shoes. While the
    road bike is fairly high end (by my standards) the pedals aren't. Even I
    can see that.

    I note that most people I see who ride road bikes do so using Velcro
    strap shoes and different sort of cleats which protrude significantly
    from the sole of the shoe. Most of these shoes leave the wearer barely
    able to walk from his truck to get the bicycle off the rack. The
    advantage of my combination is that I can walk fairly well in these
    shoes. I've had to walk 'back' as much as 4 miles several times when I
    suffered bicycle breakdowns I was unable to address on site. While I'd
    not choose these shoes / cleats for hiking, the walking wasn't that much
    of a chore.

    Clearly I need to upgrade my kit to address the breakdowns, but my query
    today is about the shoe / pedal combos. I'm curious to know what if
    anything I'd gain by switching to full on road shoes with high end
    pedals. A recent Bicycling magazine said that by moving to road shoes /
    pedals, my riding would be vastly improved (like an entirely new sport).
    Is this true? What does one gain by moving to a shoe with the cleat
    protruding so far from the shoe's sole that walking is almost impossible?

    Specifically, the magazine recommended Shimano PD6601 (Ultegra) pedals
    and Shimano R151 shoes. Currently I have, IIRC, SPD 520 pedals and some
    Caonnondale brand shoe which I can't read any information off of any
    more after several thousand miles of being in them.

    My only restrictions are that I'd like a lighter pedal as my road bike
    is lightweight so these pedals which feel like they mass more than 500 g
    sort of run contrary to the spirit of the road bike. I also have a wide
    forefoot so 'Italian style' shoes don't work for me at all. The
    Cannondale shoes I have work ok. I've asked here so have a list of wider
    brand shoes such as Shimano making this Bicycling recommendation seem
    fairly reasonable.

    So what does one gain by using those ungainly road style shoes? How does
    one choose between the various cleat / pedal schemes which seem to be
    out there? Would a recreational rider benefit from moving from the low
    end SPD's to some higher end combination or would I best be served by
    upgrading my road bike's pedals to high end SPD style? If I did that I
    can keep the same shoes for all riding. TIA.

    The times I have been forced to walk long distances with road shoes, I
    have taken them off and walked in my socks. I use road pedals on my
    road bike because they have a wider more stable platform. My shoes do
    not wobble and the shoes are lighter which is a plus. And since I do
    not plan on doing any walking when I go for a road ride, the duck-walk
    isn't an issue.

    When I ride my MTB I use SPD on MTB shoes. I do this because
    walking/scrambling over logs, rocks, etc is a common occurrence on my
    MTB rides, and this is only practical with MTB shoes. I also like the
    "slop" in SPD which lets me wiggle around without releasing by
    accident, as well as being able to just stomp on the pedal to engage
    it. The only problem with SPD for me is the side-to-side wobble. It is
    worth it in exchange for all the other plusses while MTB'ing for me,
    but not worth it on the road, where I want a more stable pedal.

    I would venture to say that what type of pedals and cleats a rider uses
    have about zero to say for performance. I consider it a comfort,
    preference issue. No reason not to use MTB pedals/shoes on a road bike
    if you are comfortable that way.

    Some (most?) MTB shoes tend to be less stiff than road shoes which
    makes for a big difference in feel. But this isn't MTB vs road, it is
    soft vs stiff.

    Joseph

  4. Paul Cassel said:

    My first adult bicycle was a mountain style one. Following the advice of
    the LBS where I bought it, I also got the bottom end Shimano SPD pedals
    (very heavy and they don't spin very well) and lace up Cannondale brand
    shoes. Later, when I added a road bike to my garage, I also bought an
    identical set of pedals mostly because they fit these shoes. While the
    road bike is fairly high end (by my standards) the pedals aren't. Even I
    can see that.

    I note that most people I see who ride road bikes do so using Velcro
    strap shoes and different sort of cleats which protrude significantly
    from the sole of the shoe. Most of these shoes leave the wearer barely
    able to walk from his truck to get the bicycle off the rack. The
    advantage of my combination is that I can walk fairly well in these
    shoes. I've had to walk 'back' as much as 4 miles several times when I
    suffered bicycle breakdowns I was unable to address on site. While I'd
    not choose these shoes / cleats for hiking, the walking wasn't that much
    of a chore.

    Clearly I need to upgrade my kit to address the breakdowns, but my query
    today is about the shoe / pedal combos. I'm curious to know what if
    anything I'd gain by switching to full on road shoes with high end
    pedals. A recent Bicycling magazine said that by moving to road shoes /
    pedals, my riding would be vastly improved (like an entirely new sport).
    Is this true? What does one gain by moving to a shoe with the cleat
    protruding so far from the shoe's sole that walking is almost impossible?

    Rememeber that cycling shoes are for riding, not walking but road shoes
    and pedals wouldn't make your ride any better. The shoe is stiffer,
    which 'may' make for more eficient transfer of your pedaling action but
    shoe fit, ease of use, a good cleat fit, that is the cleat in the right
    place, is key. I would say unless your ledals are getting hard to spin
    or hard to get into or out of, due to wear, leave them alone. If you
    shoes fit and aren't falling apart, leave them alone as well. WE put
    'MTB' pedals on road bikes all the time since many DO walk arond when
    riding.

    Quoted message said:


    Specifically, the magazine recommended Shimano PD6601 (Ultegra) pedals
    and Shimano R151 shoes. Currently I have, IIRC, SPD 520 pedals and some
    Caonnondale brand shoe which I can't read any information off of any
    more after several thousand miles of being in them.

    Balderdash. Your pedals are good ones, not high Zoot, but good
    reasonable pedals that do what tey are supposed to do.

    Quoted message said:


    My only restrictions are that I'd like a lighter pedal as my road bike
    is lightweight so these pedals which feel like they mass more than 500 g
    sort of run contrary to the spirit of the road bike.

    Less mass probably is something you can't even tell, at the low speeds
    of a bicycle and the low cadence. If ya gotta have lighter pedals, Time
    makes some nice 'MTB' pedals, Not hugely expensive and lighter.

    I also have a wide

    Quoted message said:

    forefoot so 'Italian style' shoes don't work for me at all. The
    Cannondale shoes I have work ok. I've asked here so have a list of wider
    brand shoes such as Shimano making this Bicycling recommendation seem
    fairly reasonable.

    So what does one gain by using those ungainly road style shoes? How does
    one choose between the various cleat / pedal schemes which seem to be
    out there? Would a recreational rider benefit from moving from the low
    end SPD's to some higher end combination or would I best be served by
    upgrading my road bike's pedals to high end SPD style? If I did that I
    can keep the same shoes for all riding. TIA.

  5. "Paul Cassel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    My first adult bicycle was a mountain style one. Following the advice of
    the LBS where I bought it, I also got the bottom end Shimano SPD pedals
    (very heavy and they don’t spin very well) and lace up Cannondale brand
    shoes. Later, when I added a road bike to my garage, I also bought an
    identical set of pedals mostly because they fit these shoes. While the
    road bike is fairly high end (by my standards) the pedals aren’t. Even I
    can see that.

    I note that most people I see who ride road bikes do so using Velcro strap
    shoes and different sort of cleats which protrude significantly from the
    sole of the shoe. Most of these shoes leave the wearer barely able to walk
    from his truck to get the bicycle off the rack. The advantage of my
    combination is that I can walk fairly well in these shoes. I’ve had to
    walk ‘back’ as much as 4 miles several times when I suffered bicycle
    breakdowns I was unable to address on site. While I’d not choose these
    shoes / cleats for hiking, the walking wasn’t that much of a chore.

    Clearly I need to upgrade my kit to address the breakdowns, but my query
    today is about the shoe / pedal combos. I’m curious to know what if
    anything I’d gain by switching to full on road shoes with high end pedals.
    A recent Bicycling magazine said that by moving to road shoes / pedals, my
    riding would be vastly improved (like an entirely new sport). Is this
    true? What does one gain by moving to a shoe with the cleat protruding so
    far from the shoe’s sole that walking is almost impossible?

    Specifically, the magazine recommended Shimano PD6601 (Ultegra) pedals and
    Shimano R151 shoes. Currently I have, IIRC, SPD 520 pedals and some
    Caonnondale brand shoe which I can’t read any information off of any more
    after several thousand miles of being in them.

    My only restrictions are that I’d like a lighter pedal as my road bike is
    lightweight so these pedals which feel like they mass more than 500 g sort
    of run contrary to the spirit of the road bike. I also have a wide
    forefoot so ‘Italian style’ shoes don’t work for me at all. The Cannondale
    shoes I have work ok. I’ve asked here so have a list of wider brand shoes
    such as Shimano making this Bicycling recommendation seem fairly
    reasonable.

    So what does one gain by using those ungainly road style shoes? How does
    one choose between the various cleat / pedal schemes which seem to be out
    there? Would a recreational rider benefit from moving from the low end SPD’s
    to some higher end combination or would I best be served by upgrading my
    road bike’s pedals to high end SPD style? If I did that I can keep the
    same shoes for all riding. TIA.

    I have been riding SPD pedals and SIDI MTB shoes on my road bike for years.
    It is easy to walk in them and the cleats never wear out. They are great for
    long tours, centuries, etc. where you are off the bike a lot to eat brownies
    and stuff. I also have some LOOK pedals and SIDI road shoes. They are harder
    to walk in, dangerously slippery on smooth surfaces and the cleats wear out
    faster than you would think. I use the looks when I am going for fast
    workouts and won't be getting off the bike. For me, the advantages of the
    Looks are: foot position is more stable, I find them easier to get into
    without looking and they don't squeak as much. If I only had one set, I
    would stick with the SPDs. I have also tried Speeplays and M2Racer Orbs.
    Speedplays are pretty easy to get into and the metal plate last a long time
    if you walk on them.

  6. Paul Cassel said:

    My first adult bicycle was a mountain style one. Following the advice of
    the LBS where I bought it, I also got the bottom end Shimano SPD pedals
    (very heavy and they don't spin very well) and lace up Cannondale brand
    shoes. Later, when I added a road bike to my garage, I also bought an
    identical set of pedals mostly because they fit these shoes. While the
    road bike is fairly high end (by my standards) the pedals aren't. Even I
    can see that.

    Are ya comfy? Then stick with that combo and poke the eye of those that
    insist you need road gear.

    Look type bindings can feel a bit more stable depending on the model
    and kind of shoe, but for the rider I'm assuming you are, a non-pro
    just like me most--stick with spd. It's ubiquitous and you can walk the
    the shoes.

    I use cheap Wellgo/Nashbar pedals on my road bike, and they're as
    smooth as the spendy models after a regreasing, but the low end
    Shimanos are even nicer. If yours feel a bit rough, give them a
    servicing.

    You did the smart thing, getting identical pedals for both bikes. Why
    complicate something for the sake of fashion.

    Which Shimano pedals? Even the low-end jobbers don't weigh all that
    much, and even the heaviest spds aren't anything to really obsess over.

    Save your money and get a nice vintage wool jersey for this spring,
    practice cursing in Italian, and you'll have a leg up on everybody come
    summer.

  7. "Paul Cassel" wrote...

    Quoted message said:

    My first adult bicycle was a mountain style one. Following the advice of
    the LBS where I bought it, I also got the bottom end Shimano SPD pedals
    (very heavy and they don’t spin very well) and lace up Cannondale brand
    shoes. Later, when I added a road bike to my garage, I also bought an
    identical set of pedals mostly because they fit these shoes. While the
    road bike is fairly high end (by my standards) the pedals aren’t. Even I
    can see that.

    I note that most people I see who ride road bikes do so using Velcro strap
    shoes and different sort of cleats which protrude significantly from the
    sole of the shoe. Most of these shoes leave the wearer barely able to walk
    from his truck to get the bicycle off the rack. The advantage of my
    combination is that I can walk fairly well in these shoes. I’ve had to
    walk ‘back’ as much as 4 miles several times when I suffered bicycle
    breakdowns I was unable to address on site. While I’d not choose these
    shoes / cleats for hiking, the walking wasn’t that much of a chore.

    Clearly I need to upgrade my kit to address the breakdowns, but my query
    today is about the shoe / pedal combos. I’m curious to know what if
    anything I’d gain by switching to full on road shoes with high end pedals.
    A recent Bicycling magazine said that by moving to road shoes / pedals, my
    riding would be vastly improved (like an entirely new sport). Is this
    true? What does one gain by moving to a shoe with the cleat protruding so
    far from the shoe’s sole that walking is almost impossible?

    Specifically, the magazine recommended Shimano PD6601 (Ultegra) pedals and
    Shimano R151 shoes. Currently I have, IIRC, SPD 520 pedals and some
    Caonnondale brand shoe which I can’t read any information off of any more
    after several thousand miles of being in them.

    My only restrictions are that I’d like a lighter pedal as my road bike is
    lightweight so these pedals which feel like they mass more than 500 g sort
    of run contrary to the spirit of the road bike. I also have a wide
    forefoot so ‘Italian style’ shoes don’t work for me at all. The Cannondale
    shoes I have work ok. I’ve asked here so have a list of wider brand shoes
    such as Shimano making this Bicycling recommendation seem fairly
    reasonable.

    So what does one gain by using those ungainly road style shoes? How does
    one choose between the various cleat / pedal schemes which seem to be out
    there? Would a recreational rider benefit from moving from the low end SPD’s
    to some higher end combination or would I best be served by upgrading my
    road bike’s pedals to high end SPD style? If I did that I can keep the
    same shoes for all riding. TIA.

    I use MTB pedals on my touring/commuting bike for exactly the reasons you
    mention, it's nice to be able to walk around off the bike once in a while. I
    do own a road racing bike with road style pedals. The road shoes are nice
    and stiff for optimum energy transfer, and the road pedals (Campagnolo
    Chorus) are light and should last a long time, but I'm not convinced that
    I'm gaining any performance advantage over a decent quality MTB pedal/shoe
    combo. The velcro closure on the road shoes is convenient, but you can get
    that on MTB shoes, too. There are also expensive MTB shoes with carbon fiber
    soles that are probably every bit as stiff (and pricey) as the best road
    shoes.

    If you absolutely must spent buckets of cash on superlight pedals and
    superstiff shoes, consider the Crank Brothers Eggbeater MTB pedals. Very
    light, very well made, and the titanium version costs enough (~$300) to let
    you hold your head up around the snootiest roadies. The steel version is a
    good bit cheaper, but still quite light and very well made. Like the
    mountain bike SPD cleats, the Eggbeater cleats are recessed so you can walk
    around easily.
    --
    mark

  8. Arthur Harris said:

    "Paul Cassel" wrote:


    <snipped>

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    A recent Bicycling magazine said that by moving to road shoes / pedals, my
    riding would be vastly improved (like an entirely new sport).

    Hint: Don't believe ANYTHING you read in Bicycling magazine!

    Especially if it involves $pending money on products that "just happen"
    to be advertised in Buycycling magazine!

  9. Paul Cassel said:

    My first adult bicycle was a mountain style one. Following the advice of
    the LBS where I bought it, I also got the bottom end Shimano SPD pedals
    (very heavy and they don’t spin very well) and lace up Cannondale brand
    shoes. Later, when I added a road bike to my garage, I also bought an
    identical set of pedals mostly because they fit these shoes. While the
    road bike is fairly high end (by my standards) the pedals aren’t. Even I
    can see that.

    I note that most people I see who ride road bikes do so using Velcro
    strap shoes and different sort of cleats which protrude significantly
    from the sole of the shoe. Most of these shoes leave the wearer barely
    able to walk from his truck to get the bicycle off the rack. The
    advantage of my combination is that I can walk fairly well in these
    shoes. I’ve had to walk ‘back’ as much as 4 miles several times when I
    suffered bicycle breakdowns I was unable to address on site. While I’d
    not choose these shoes / cleats for hiking, the walking wasn’t that much
    of a chore.

    Clearly I need to upgrade my kit to address the breakdowns, but my query
    today is about the shoe / pedal combos. I’m curious to know what if
    anything I’d gain by switching to full on road shoes with high end
    pedals. A recent Bicycling magazine said that by moving to road shoes /
    pedals, my riding would be vastly improved (like an entirely new sport).
    Is this true? What does one gain by moving to a shoe with the cleat
    protruding so far from the shoe’s sole that walking is almost impossible?

    Specifically, the magazine recommended Shimano PD6601 (Ultegra) pedals
    and Shimano R151 shoes. Currently I have, IIRC, SPD 520 pedals and some
    Caonnondale brand shoe which I can’t read any information off of any
    more after several thousand miles of being in them.

    My only restrictions are that I’d like a lighter pedal as my road bike
    is lightweight so these pedals which feel like they mass more than 500 g
    sort of run contrary to the spirit of the road bike. I also have a wide
    forefoot so ‘Italian style’ shoes don’t work for me at all. The
    Cannondale shoes I have work ok. I’ve asked here so have a list of wider
    brand shoes such as Shimano making this Bicycling recommendation seem
    fairly reasonable.

    So what does one gain by using those ungainly road style shoes? How does
    one choose between the various cleat / pedal schemes which seem to be
    out there? Would a recreational rider benefit from moving from the low
    end SPD’s to some higher end combination or would I best be served by
    upgrading my road bike’s pedals to high end SPD style? If I did that I
    can keep the same shoes for all riding. TIA.

    Hi, I started with SPDs and a pair of Shimano lace up mtb shoes. i
    still use the shoes every week at my spin class and when I ride my
    older bike.
    On my LeMond I have SPD-SL the Ultegra model, with Sidi Genuis 4s. As
    others have said, they are not for walking, and will wear quickly, if
    you do walk in them. But I don't care about the walking problem, for
    the riding I do.
    I really like my SPD-SL pedals, they are easy to enter and exit, with
    the Sidi shoes, my feet never bother me.

    The Sidi shoes come in wide sizes and half sizes, very comfy. The Look
    pedals have a reputation for squeeking, my Shimanos are quiet. If I
    was starting from scratch, I might consider the new Looks, the Keo, I
    think it is. But otherwise the DA version if money no object and the
    105 version, I think it is the 520, if on a budget.But, the Ultegra is
    just fine. All three models use the same cleats. My LBS sells the
    Shimano cleats for $20, and I wait for a sale, usually paying $16-17 a
    set. I buy two or three sets at a time.

    Jeffrey Starr
    All rights to the above text is reserved. No use
    outside of rec.bicycle.tech, without express written
    permission.

  10. Thanks to everybody for this very informative set of replies. Just as a
    note, the pedals on my road bike do seem to be excessively worn. I say
    this because no matter how hard I try to spin them, I can't get a single
    rotation before they grind to a halt.

    That implies to me that the bearings aren't what the should be. Thus,
    with a need to buy new pedals anyway, I figured to cast about for a
    different set.

    One thing which you posters hit on but which I left out is that since I
    got these bikes I've been using them for actual transportation. They are
    more than recreational devices since I live within a few miles of
    stores, libraries, and even work. Having a set of biking shoes I can
    walk around in the store while shopping is a necessity, but that article
    had me thinking that I was losing 25% or so of my pedaling efficiency to
    gain the ability to walk around the supermarket.

    The current shoes never worked all that well for me anyway as they
    aren't wide enough at the forefoot. My feet go numb (even in warm
    weather) after about 10 miles due to compression. This wasn't much of a
    deal when I started out because 10 miles was a major event which blew me
    out for the day. However, I'm better at it now and even planning an
    organized century ride this May.

    I am going to follow the group's guidance here and look for a new set of
    SPD pedals, but lighter ones. I stumbled onto a road bike which is way
    above my level of riding. I'm sort of in a position of a guy who has a
    Porsche. Even if he never goes above 80 mph with it, he doesn't want to
    put H rated tires.

    I'll also look for a set of stiffer mtn bike shoes, but this time my
    size. The current ones I got 1.5 sizes too long to try and make up for
    the lack of width.

    Again, thanks to all for the informative and courteous replies.

    -paul

  11. Paul Cassel said:

    My first adult bicycle was a mountain style one. Following the advice of
    the LBS where I bought it, I also got the bottom end Shimano SPD pedals
    (very heavy and they don't spin very well) and lace up Cannondale brand
    shoes. Later, when I added a road bike to my garage, I also bought an
    identical set of pedals mostly because they fit these shoes. While the
    road bike is fairly high end (by my standards) the pedals aren't. Even I
    can see that.

    I note that most people I see who ride road bikes do so using Velcro
    strap shoes and different sort of cleats which protrude significantly
    from the sole of the shoe. Most of these shoes leave the wearer barely
    able to walk from his truck to get the bicycle off the rack. The
    advantage of my combination is that I can walk fairly well in these
    shoes. I've had to walk 'back' as much as 4 miles several times when I
    suffered bicycle breakdowns I was unable to address on site. While I'd
    not choose these shoes / cleats for hiking, the walking wasn't that much
    of a chore.

    Clearly I need to upgrade my kit to address the breakdowns, but my query
    today is about the shoe / pedal combos. I'm curious to know what if
    anything I'd gain by switching to full on road shoes with high end
    pedals. A recent Bicycling magazine said that by moving to road shoes /
    pedals, my riding would be vastly improved (like an entirely new sport).
    Is this true? What does one gain by moving to a shoe with the cleat
    protruding so far from the shoe's sole that walking is almost impossible?

    Specifically, the magazine recommended Shimano PD6601 (Ultegra) pedals
    and Shimano R151 shoes. Currently I have, IIRC, SPD 520 pedals and some
    Caonnondale brand shoe which I can't read any information off of any
    more after several thousand miles of being in them.

    Was there a full page Shimano advertisement for these cleats and shoes
    strategically placed near the article text?

    Quoted message said:

    My only restrictions are that I'd like a lighter pedal as my road bike
    is lightweight so these pedals which feel like they mass more than 500 g
    sort of run contrary to the spirit of the road bike. I also have a wide
    forefoot so 'Italian style' shoes don't work for me at all. The
    Cannondale shoes I have work ok. I've asked here so have a list of wider
    brand shoes such as Shimano making this Bicycling recommendation seem
    fairly reasonable.

    Here is an Italian shoe that fits wide northern European feet that also
    takes recessed Shimano cleats. It also has a stiff sole so it will
    perform as well as a "road shoe": Dominator 5 Mega Lorica® Mountain
    Bike Shoes [1]. Note that you would need the "Mega" version, as the
    standard width SiDi shoes do not fit wide feet.

    Quoted message said:

    So what does one gain by using those ungainly road style shoes? How does
    one choose between the various cleat / pedal schemes which seem to be
    out there? Would a recreational rider benefit from moving from the low
    end SPD's to some higher end combination or would I best be served by
    upgrading my road bike's pedals to high end SPD style? If I did that I
    can keep the same shoes for all riding. TIA.

    Road shoes with protruding cleats will make you miserable if you ever
    have a mechanical problem (or worse, have your bike stolen) and have to
    walk somewhere. Like brifters and low spoke count wheels, they are best
    left to racers who can count on the support car showing up if they have
    serious problems. Stiff sole ATB shoes with higher quality pedals will
    provide 99 and 44/100% of the performance of road shoes and pedals
    during road riding without the detriments that occur when off the bike.

    [1]
    <http://www.sidisport.com/eng/cycling/art_d.asp?ATp_ID=C02&Art_ID=MCDOM5>.

    --
    Tom Sherman - Fox River Valley

  12. Quoted message said:

    ...
    The times I have been forced to walk long distances with road shoes, I
    have taken them off and walked in my socks....

    This would be great fun during the rain, on cold days or on areas with
    thorns or "puncture vine". An ugly scenario would be frostbite during
    the winter.

    No thanks.

    --
    Tom Sherman - Fox River Valley

  13. Qui si parla Campagnolo aka Peter Chisholm said:
    Paul Cassel said:

    My first adult bicycle was a mountain style one. Following the advice of
    the LBS where I bought it, I also got the bottom end Shimano SPD pedals
    (very heavy and they don't spin very well) and lace up Cannondale brand
    shoes. Later, when I added a road bike to my garage, I also bought an
    identical set of pedals mostly because they fit these shoes. While the
    road bike is fairly high end (by my standards) the pedals aren't. Even I
    can see that.

    I note that most people I see who ride road bikes do so using Velcro
    strap shoes and different sort of cleats which protrude significantly
    from the sole of the shoe. Most of these shoes leave the wearer barely
    able to walk from his truck to get the bicycle off the rack. The
    advantage of my combination is that I can walk fairly well in these
    shoes. I've had to walk 'back' as much as 4 miles several times when I
    suffered bicycle breakdowns I was unable to address on site. While I'd
    not choose these shoes / cleats for hiking, the walking wasn't that much
    of a chore.

    Clearly I need to upgrade my kit to address the breakdowns, but my query
    today is about the shoe / pedal combos. I'm curious to know what if
    anything I'd gain by switching to full on road shoes with high end
    pedals. A recent Bicycling magazine said that by moving to road shoes /
    pedals, my riding would be vastly improved (like an entirely new sport).
    Is this true? What does one gain by moving to a shoe with the cleat
    protruding so far from the shoe's sole that walking is almost impossible?

    Rememeber that cycling shoes are for riding, not walking but road shoes
    and pedals wouldn't make your ride any better. The shoe is stiffer,
    which 'may' make for more eficient transfer of your pedaling action but
    shoe fit, ease of use, a good cleat fit, that is the cleat in the right
    place, is key. I would say unless your ledals are getting hard to spin
    or hard to get into or out of, due to wear, leave them alone. If you
    shoes fit and aren't falling apart, leave them alone as well. WE put
    'MTB' pedals on road bikes all the time since many DO walk arond when
    riding.

    Quoted message said:


    Specifically, the magazine recommended Shimano PD6601 (Ultegra) pedals
    and Shimano R151 shoes. Currently I have, IIRC, SPD 520 pedals and some
    Caonnondale brand shoe which I can't read any information off of any
    more after several thousand miles of being in them.

    Balderdash. Your pedals are good ones, not high Zoot, but good
    reasonable pedals that do what tey are supposed to do.

    Quoted message said:


    My only restrictions are that I'd like a lighter pedal as my road bike
    is lightweight so these pedals which feel like they mass more than 500 g
    sort of run contrary to the spirit of the road bike.

    Less mass probably is something you can't even tell, at the low speeds
    of a bicycle and the low cadence....

    Hey! I agree with Peter.

    --
    Tom Sherman - Fox River Valley

  14. Paul Cassel said:

    I am going to follow the group's guidance here and look for a new set of
    SPD pedals, but lighter ones. I stumbled onto a road bike which is way
    above my level of riding. I'm sort of in a position of a guy who has a
    Porsche. Even if he never goes above 80 mph with it, he doesn't want to
    put H rated tires.

    There you go again...

    Quoted message said:

    I'll also look for a set of stiffer mtn bike shoes, but this time my size.
    The current ones I got 1.5 sizes too long to try and make up for the lack
    of width.

    Not all SPD shoes are MTB type. The Shimano T092 shoes that I use look like
    a regular road shoe (they don't have the heavy lugged soles typical of MTB
    shoes), but are stiff, do have a recessed cleat for easy walking, and triple
    velcro closure. See:
    http://bikemart.com/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=947&Catalog=39&sort=Price

    Art Harris

  15. Johnny Sunset said:

    Paul Cassel wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Specifically, the magazine recommended Shimano PD6601 (Ultegra) pedals
    and Shimano R151 shoes. Currently I have, IIRC, SPD 520 pedals and some
    Caonnondale brand shoe which I can't read any information off of any
    more after several thousand miles of being in them.

    Was there a full page Shimano advertisement for these cleats and shoes
    strategically placed near the article text?

    I get your point. Others here in this thread have said similar. AFAIK,
    there was no close ad. You here may find Bicycling to be silly, but
    bicycling as a hobby / sport is like any other. I need to start with
    some information as a base. I can then grow from there.

    I once thought this was buy a bike, hop on and pedal. I failed several
    attempts at this. My being able to ride comes from a friend who used to
    be a pro who fitted me. Prior to that, I didn't even KNOW that you were
    fitted to a bike.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Here is an Italian shoe that fits wide northern European feet that also
    takes recessed Shimano cleats. It also has a stiff sole so it will
    perform as well as a "road shoe": Dominator 5 Mega Lorica® Mountain
    Bike Shoes [1]. Note that you would need the "Mega" version, as the
    standard width SiDi shoes do not fit wide feet.

    Thanks for the specific recommendation. I am with you on walking home.
    Today my water bottle froze solid during my ride. A walk home barefooted
    would be, well, difficult.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    So what does one gain by using those ungainly road style shoes? How does
    one choose between the various cleat / pedal schemes which seem to be
    out there? Would a recreational rider benefit from moving from the low
    end SPD's to some higher end combination or would I best be served by
    upgrading my road bike's pedals to high end SPD style? If I did that I
    can keep the same shoes for all riding. TIA.

    Road shoes with protruding cleats will make you miserable if you ever
    have a mechanical problem (or worse, have your bike stolen) and have to
    walk somewhere. Like brifters and low spoke count wheels, they are best
    left to racers who can count on the support car showing up if they have
    serious problems. Stiff sole ATB shoes with higher quality pedals will
    provide 99 and 44/100% of the performance of road shoes and pedals
    during road riding without the detriments that occur when off the bike.

    [1]
    <http://www.sidisport.com/eng/cycling/art_d.asp?ATp_ID=C02&Art_ID=MCDOM5>.

    I think I have brifters, but I"m unsure. They are plastic. I do have
    those low spoke count wheels where the spokes are blades - not
    cylinders. Others here such as Art and Jobst have already poked well
    deserved fun at me for these things. My only defense is that I didn't
    pay a premium for them - they came with the bike which I got for a
    reasonable beginner price.

    Quoted message said:


    I'll have a look at the Megas. No sense in me going from a 2 time fool
    to a 3 time one.

    -paul

  16. Dans le message de news:[email hidden],
    Jeff Starr <[email hidden]> a réfléchi, et puis a déclaré :

    [snipped, having no rights of reproduction]

    Quoted message said:

    Jeffrey Starr
    All rights to the above text is reserved. No use
    outside of rec.bicycle.tech, without express written
    permission.

    The trick is, you have to hire us lawyers to enforce these feeble rights !
    Yea ! The Brotherhood [generically including Sisterhood]

    And only after these rights are infringed. It's not a criminal deal, where
    you go to the cop store and tell them you want an IP warrant enforced.

    --
    --
    Sandy

    --
    Si les autres parties du monde ont des singes ; l'Europe a des Français.
    Cela se compense.
    [Arthur Schopenhauer]

  17. Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
    reasonable pedals that do what tey are supposed to do.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    My only restrictions are that I'd like a lighter pedal as my road bike
    is lightweight so these pedals which feel like they mass more than 500 g
    sort of run contrary to the spirit of the road bike.

    Less mass probably is something you can't even tell, at the low speeds
    of a bicycle and the low cadence. If ya gotta have lighter pedals, Time
    makes some nice 'MTB' pedals, Not hugely expensive and lighter.


    Well, folks sure seem to spend a lot of money to go that way. I have to
    be skeptical here. My friend bought a 'comfort' bike which weighs maybe
    40 lbs or so it feels. We went out riding. After she got exhausted, she
    switched with my daughter who has a decent bike I got at a swap for $15.
    It's a specialized hybrid weighing perhaps, 24 lbs. My friend and
    daughter said the difference, especially on hills was enormous. It sort
    of ruined my buddy's new comfort bike for her.

    I know I haven't isolated for mass alone there, but I think there must
    be something to this or many folks are fools.

  18. Arthur Harris said:
    Paul Cassel said:

    I am going to follow the group's guidance here and look for a new set of
    SPD pedals, but lighter ones. I stumbled onto a road bike which is way
    above my level of riding. I'm sort of in a position of a guy who has a
    Porsche. Even if he never goes above 80 mph with it, he doesn't want to
    put H rated tires.

    There you go again...

    ? Are you giving me some razz again about my bladed spokes and I'm not
    getting it?

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    I'll also look for a set of stiffer mtn bike shoes, but this time my size.
    The current ones I got 1.5 sizes too long to try and make up for the lack
    of width.

    Not all SPD shoes are MTB type. The Shimano T092 shoes that I use look like
    a regular road shoe (they don't have the heavy lugged soles typical of MTB
    shoes), but are stiff, do have a recessed cleat for easy walking, and triple
    velcro closure. See:
    http://bikemart.com/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=947&Catalog=39&sort=Price


    I like the general look and design of those Sidi Mega Dominators that
    Johnny mentioned. I'm ok with mtb style. I'll also be using them for mtn
    bike riding - espcially if I get the Megas. They cost $200! Yikes.

  19. Johnny Sunset said:
    Quoted message said:

    ...
    The times I have been forced to walk long distances with road shoes, I
    have taken them off and walked in my socks....

    This would be great fun during the rain, on cold days or on areas with
    thorns or "puncture vine". An ugly scenario would be frostbite during
    the winter.

    No thanks.

    --
    Tom Sherman - Fox River Valley

    Late fall in Norway, in the rain, about 10km. What doesn't kill me,
    makes me stonger! :-) This was before the days of cell phones, so I
    couldn't call in the cavalry.

    It's a question of probablilities. I do not intend to do any walking at
    all on my road rides, and if I do, it is an extreme circumstance that I
    don't want to deal with the downside of the other 99.999% of the time.
    The downside is not having the wide stable platform of SPD-SL (Ultegra
    style) cleats. Look cleats in my opinion are no good because the wear
    so quickly and that affects the stability of the platform.

    That said, I use MTB shoes for my MTB and agree with everyone else here
    that road shoes are not a performance enhancer in any way (other than
    weight, which is minimal). It's a comfort issue. I'd rather be
    comfortable when I am pedaling vs being comfortable while I am walking.
    Comfort for me means a solid stable platform with no "yaw" wobble. All
    the MTB shoes I have tried have some wobble. I like the wobble while
    MTB'ing because it allows more "english" without disengaging or feeling
    strained, but it is irritating for me on long road rides.

    Joseph

  20. Paul Cassel said:

    Well, folks sure seem to spend a lot of money to go that way. I have to be
    skeptical here. My friend bought a 'comfort' bike which weighs maybe 40
    lbs or so it feels. We went out riding. After she got exhausted, she
    switched with my daughter who has a decent bike I got at a swap for $15.
    It's a specialized hybrid weighing perhaps, 24 lbs. My friend and daughter
    said the difference, especially on hills was enormous.

    A bike that's 16 pounds heavier than another is certainly going to make a
    difference in the hills. But how much lighter are your new pedals going to
    be compared to the old ones? Maybe 75 grams? (1 pound = 454 grams)

    Art Harris

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