Matt O'Toole said:Jasper Janssen said:I've got a trekking bike for road use that's built with all-Deore, 26" MTB
wheels and a flat-bar w/ separate pods & brake levers rather than the
integrated stuff. It's currently kitted out with the standard Deore
gearing (11-32 9s and either a 46 or a 48 as top ring -- I still need to
count that when I have some time), and I was thinking of moving toward a
road triple, and/or possibly a road cassette -- at least for regular use
on the flats over here (and as I live .nl, the flats are very flat and
very everywhere). I pretty much never use the bottom third of gears, and I
pretty much only use the big ring with the 11-13-14-16, and very
occasionally the 18, apart from starting up after a traffic light.
I once had some road wheels for my MTB, with slicks and an 11-24 cassette,
used with a 46-48T big ring. It worked great.
Myeah. I suppose for that matter that 559-47 isn't all that different in
diameter from 622-23 -- let's see, 559+2x47=559+94=653,
622+2x23=622+46=668. Still a little bit of difference, but.. my shameful
secret is that I use fairly low RPMs, especially when I'm just cruising,
and the 46/48 (whichever it is) by 11 is sometimes just a bit anemic. Not
by much, mind you, but I think I'd like to have a slightly larger gear
available. On the other hand, I don't really *need* it. Enh. I'll see what
happens when I break this crank.
Quoted message said:Quoted message said:If I were to want a road crank, and matching derailer, on my bike, what
would I have to do? I see two options: Get that flat-bar road derailer
and shifter set, which would leave me with a used MTB triple left pod
and a new 8/9/10 speed (depending on which I buy) right pod -- which may
be worth a bit on ebay, particularly the 10sp -- or, and this is what
I'm leaning towards, get a real road triple derailer and find myself an
old non-indexed left bar-top thumbshifter.
Maybe you should try Paul Thumbies:
http://www.paulcomp.com/thumbmtn.html
They turn barend shifters (which work with road derailers) into thumb
shifters. They're available for both road (26.0mm) and MTB (25.4mm)
handlebars.
Yeah, but a) they're expensive ($50 for the mounts, $60 or so for the
shifters) and b) I kinda like my Rapidfire plus right shifter pod. DA
barends (which those take) are still pure friction on the left, aren't
they?
Anyway, for just a left shifter, I could just as easily, and much
cheaperlier, use an actual thumbshifter from the days of yore, and/or a
new Tourney one -- I saw that they appear to be back in production, or at
least the QBP catalog on the Harris site now again lists them, in even
simpler variations than before, as available. I'm considering going to a
friction thumbie on the left anyway, because the indexing just doesn't
seem to be all that hot.
Quoted message said:Quoted message said:Incidentally.. why do road cassettes come in oodles of variations
whereas MTB cassettes seem to limited to 11-32 and 11-34? Weird.
Actually the cassettes are interchangeable. You can put a 9sp road
cassette on a 9sp MTB hub with no problems. 9sp on 8sp, 8sp on 8sp, and
7sp on 7sp too.
Well, yeah, but you're still left with a big gap. The road cassettes end
at 27 large, the MTB cassettes start at 32 and are hard to get with a
larger small sprocket than 11 and look to be impossible to find with a
larger starting sprocket than 12.
I'm sure Sheldon loves the fact that lots of people come to him to buy
cassettes made from one road and one MTB cassette, but you'd think Shimano
would do something about the gap in the market as well.
Jasper