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Shimano Bar-end Shifter Maintenance

Started by Ron Ruff · · Last activity · 14 posts · 978 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
25 December 2006
Last activity
26 December 2006
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Ron Ruff
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  1. I'm on my second set of Shimano bar-ends in the last 2 years. The first
    set died after I attempted to clean it with carb cleaner (plastic parts
    melted!), but it was a last ditch effort to get it to work anyway.
    Previously I dripped oil on the outside pretty regularly and tried to
    work it in, but it didn't seem to help much. Now the new one is feeling
    gritty and sticking between gears as well. Both spent most of their
    lives in wet, hot, salty Hawaii where things tend to corode quickly.

    Since everyone seems to rave about the durability and reliability of
    these, is there a good maintenance procedure to keep them working well?
    Maybe soaking in solvent and/oil every so often? Any ideas?

  2. Ron Ruff said:

    I'm on my second set of Shimano bar-ends in the last 2 years. The first
    set died after I attempted to clean it with carb cleaner (plastic parts
    melted!), but it was a last ditch effort to get it to work anyway.
    Previously I dripped oil on the outside pretty regularly and tried to
    work it in, but it didn't seem to help much. Now the new one is feeling
    gritty and sticking between gears as well. Both spent most of their
    lives in wet, hot, salty Hawaii where things tend to corode quickly.

    Since everyone seems to rave about the durability and reliability of
    these, is there a good maintenance procedure to keep them working well?
    Maybe soaking in solvent and/oil every so often? Any ideas?

    Do you actually see corrosion inside the mechanisms?

    I still have my first pair of Shimano bar-ends, 7SP from 1991. Lotsa
    miles, lotsa shifts. They are on the one bike I will use in all
    conditions, including (in the past) the nasty slop of New England snow
    melt, road clearing chemicals and all. This is also the one bike I will
    roof rack, etc., so they have been in some nasty downpours at 60+ MPH.
    Zero maintenance, zero problems; so your experience surprises me.

  3. Ozark Bicycle said:

    Do you actually see corrosion inside the mechanisms?

    I soaked the first set in WD-40 at one point and it left a thick rusty
    brown residue... which could have been dirt or rust. After the
    carb-cleaner soak I could see inside and yes, the steel parts were
    somewhat rusty. They aren't using stainless parts apparently... these
    are DA 9spd BTW.

    The guts of the shifters aren't sealed that well, so water, dirt, and
    volcanic pumic etc, get in to some degree... and there is no easy way
    to flush them out. I'm actually more surprised that everyone raves
    about their trouble-free longevity.

  4. Ron Ruff said:

    I'm on my second set of Shimano bar-ends in the last 2 years. The first
    set died after I attempted to clean it with carb cleaner (plastic parts
    melted!), but it was a last ditch effort to get it to work anyway.
    Previously I dripped oil on the outside pretty regularly and tried to
    work it in, but it didn't seem to help much. Now the new one is feeling
    gritty and sticking between gears as well. Both spent most of their
    lives in wet, hot, salty Hawaii where things tend to corode quickly.

    Since everyone seems to rave about the durability and reliability of
    these, is there a good maintenance procedure to keep them working well?
    Maybe soaking in solvent and/oil every so often? Any ideas?


    I have regreased a RSX STI rear shifter. The shifter performance was
    pretty cruddy when someone sprayed solvent and then relubed with oil.
    Well it did shift but not so swell. Taking everything apart and using
    grease let the shifter work like butter. You do not use brake cleaner or
    carb cleaner on a bike. Good for cleaning some things on a car but it
    can cause damage to car parts. Simple Green or its equivalent diluted
    some can work but read the warnings about spraying on aluminum. It has
    not caused me any problems when I dilute 50% but your performance may
    vary. Kerosene works pretty well as a cleaning solvent. Biodiesel is
    supposed to work well but some plastics may not like it. You have to
    have the correct hoses in a car for biodiesel to work. It melts some old
    style hoses. I haven't tried it as a parts solvent yet. Maybe next year
    I can try cleaning bike parts with biodiesel when it warms up so I can
    use it in the car.

  5. On 25 Dec 2006 11:34:44 -0800, "Ron Ruff" <[email hidden]> may

    have said:

    I'm on my second set of Shimano bar-ends in the last 2 years. The first
    set died after I attempted to clean it with carb cleaner (plastic parts
    melted!), but it was a last ditch effort to get it to work anyway.
    Previously I dripped oil on the outside pretty regularly and tried to
    work it in, but it didn't seem to help much. Now the new one is feeling
    gritty and sticking between gears as well. Both spent most of their
    lives in wet, hot, salty Hawaii where things tend to corode quickly.

    Since everyone seems to rave about the durability and reliability of
    these, is there a good maintenance procedure to keep them working well?
    Maybe soaking in solvent and/oil every so often? Any ideas?

    IME, trying to stop salt-based corrosion in either aluminum or steel,
    once it has begun, is a battle that is lost more often than not. I
    would counsel obtaining some barends from less challenging climes.
    Also, it's possible that you choice of lubricant may be a factor; some
    oild attack certain plastics. Unfortunately, the only way I'f found
    to actually discover which ones are unsafe is to try them.
    (Lubriplate, by the way, has been the single worst offender in this
    regard, causing the deterioration of more plastic items than I would
    like to admit. Certain other lithium-soap greases have also caused
    disintegration of some plastics for me. I'm discounting incidents
    involving items that I know were made of polyurethane; that stuff will
    self-destruct in a low-moisture no-UV cabinet.)

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  6. Ron Ruff said:
    Ozark Bicycle said:

    Do you actually see corrosion inside the mechanisms?

    I soaked the first set in WD-40 at one point and it left a thick rusty
    brown residue... which could have been dirt or rust. After the
    carb-cleaner soak I could see inside and yes, the steel parts were
    somewhat rusty. They aren't using stainless parts apparently

    They're just warmed over DT shifters, on a different mount. No better
    sealed, but no worse either.

    .... these

    Quoted message said:

    are DA 9spd BTW.

    I've a set of 8SP DA, 8SP Ultegra and an OEM 7SP set. Only the 7SP set
    sees tough duty.

    Quoted message said:


    The guts of the shifters aren't sealed that well, so water, dirt, and
    volcanic pumic etc, get in to some degree... and there is no easy way
    to flush them out. I'm actually more surprised that everyone raves
    about their trouble-free longevity.

    You are the only person I have heard with these problems. Perhaps the
    pumic is the X-factor?

  7. Ron Ruff said:

    Since everyone seems to rave about the durability and reliability
    of these, is there a good maintenance procedure to keep them
    working well?

    I'm not aware of any than flushing with some solvent and light oil.
    Mine are missing the most used index now after 5 years, they see
    some salt from winter and sweat as well...

    --
    MfG/Best regards
    helmut springer

  8. Ozark Bicycle said:
    Ron Ruff said:
    Ozark Bicycle said:

    Do you actually see corrosion inside the mechanisms?

    I soaked the first set in WD-40 at one point and it left a thick rusty
    brown residue... which could have been dirt or rust. After the
    carb-cleaner soak I could see inside and yes, the steel parts were
    somewhat rusty. They aren't using stainless parts apparently

    They're just warmed over DT shifters, on a different mount. No better
    sealed, but no worse either.

    ... these

    Quoted message said:

    are DA 9spd BTW.

    I've a set of 8SP DA, 8SP Ultegra and an OEM 7SP set. Only the 7SP set
    sees tough duty.

    Quoted message said:


    The guts of the shifters aren't sealed that well, so water, dirt, and
    volcanic pumic etc, get in to some degree... and there is no easy way
    to flush them out. I'm actually more surprised that everyone raves
    about their trouble-free longevity.

    You are the only person I have heard with these problems. Perhaps the
    pumic is the X-factor?

    Roger that.

    My 8-speed Ultegras have given me faithful service since they were
    installed ten years ago, maybe, and with an almost non-existant
    maintenance regimen. Ron's experiences surely reflect some difference in
    exposure.

    "Hot, wet and salty" is how he described conditions in Hawaii, which is
    about one-third true for around here.

    Anyway, I like barends, but they are so rarely spec'ed on new bikes that
    I sometimes wonder how long we can still get them. There is a steady
    market for them as aftermarket items, so I suppose as long as that
    exists, it doesn't cost Shimano much to produce a product that needs no
    annual updating.

    --
    Ted Bennett

  9. Ted Bennett said:

    My 8-speed Ultegras have given me faithful service since they were
    installed ten years ago, maybe, and with an almost non-existant
    maintenance regimen. Ron's experiences surely reflect some difference in
    exposure.

    My shifters are also mounted on the inside of the bar under the hoods
    and sticking up, using modified Paul's Thumbies. I don't think that
    should matter though. I was considering having some mounts custom built
    (the Thumbies are not ideal)... maybe a hundred or so and then selling
    them. I figured there might be a small market for people who like the
    barends but prefer to be able to shift them from the hoods. My barends
    have been problematic though, so I forgot about that idea...

    Quoted message said:

    Anyway, I like barends, but they are so rarely spec'ed on new bikes that
    I sometimes wonder how long we can still get them.

    I wouldn't worry about that for the near future... they are used a lot
    on TT and Tri bikes.

  10. Ted Bennett said:

    Anyway, I like barends, but they are so rarely spec'ed on new
    bikes that I sometimes wonder how long we can still get them.

    TT and Tri use them quite a lot, actually the market seems to be big
    enought þhat Campagnolo featured some advertising for their bar
    ends...

    --
    MfG/Best regards
    helmut springer

  11. Ron Ruff said:

    I'm on my second set of Shimano bar-ends in the last 2 years. The first
    set died after I attempted to clean it with carb cleaner (plastic parts
    melted!), but it was a last ditch effort to get it to work anyway.
    Previously I dripped oil on the outside pretty regularly and tried to
    work it in, but it didn't seem to help much. Now the new one is feeling
    gritty and sticking between gears as well. Both spent most of their
    lives in wet, hot, salty Hawaii where things tend to corode quickly.

    Since everyone seems to rave about the durability and reliability of
    these, is there a good maintenance procedure to keep them working well?
    Maybe soaking in solvent and/oil every so often? Any ideas?

    best mainyanence is to take them off, put 'em in a drawer, bite the
    bullet and buy some outrageously priced Campag ones, replace the RD
    with any Campag one, and THEN have the ability to take 'em apart,
    clean and lube regularly.

  12. Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

    best mainyanence is to take them off, put 'em in a drawer, bite the
    bullet and buy some outrageously priced Campag ones, replace the RD
    with any Campag one, and THEN have the ability to take 'em apart,
    clean and lube regularly.

    Actually, I just bought some 2006 Veloce levers and plan to go the
    hubub route. The Campy brifters are way cheap compared to Shimano...
    but the barends are much more expensive.

  13. Ron Ruff said:

    I'm on my second set of Shimano bar-ends in the last 2 years. The first
    set died after I attempted to clean it with carb cleaner (plastic parts
    melted!), but it was a last ditch effort to get it to work anyway.
    Previously I dripped oil on the outside pretty regularly and tried to
    work it in, but it didn't seem to help much. Now the new one is feeling
    gritty and sticking between gears as well. Both spent most of their
    lives in wet, hot, salty Hawaii where things tend to corode quickly.

    Since everyone seems to rave about the durability and reliability of
    these, is there a good maintenance procedure to keep them working well?
    Maybe soaking in solvent and/oil every so often? Any ideas?


    i think you'll find that the people that experience the least trouble
    with shimano shifters are the ones who maintain them the least. try
    /not/ touching the next set you get and see how that goes. my shimano
    mtb shifters have been through 4 years of dust and sometimes mud where
    i've been caked head to toe - and never a blink. unless you know for
    sure that the lube you're using /is/ compatible with the componentry in
    the shifter, /and/ that you're definitely not introducing other
    contaminants in doing so, i say leave them alone.

  14. Ron Ruff wrote:

    <snipped>

    Quoted message said:


    My shifters are also mounted on the inside of the bar under the hoods
    and sticking up, using modified Paul's Thumbies. I don't think that
    should matter though. I was considering having some mounts custom built
    (the Thumbies are not ideal)... maybe a hundred or so and then selling
    them. I figured there might be a small market for people who like the
    barends but prefer to be able to shift them from the hoods. My barends
    have been problematic though, so I forgot about that idea...

    If you have a viable design that won't cost a fortune to manufacture,
    you might want to proceed despite your unusual experience. IMO, there
    are quite a number of people interested in mounting DT levers or
    bar-end levers in the way you describe.

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