Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Seatpost Slipping

Started by baryzu · · Last activity · 20 posts · 3,409 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
17 October 2004
Last activity
20 October 2004
Original author
baryzu
Posts
20
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
3,409
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–20 of 20
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Just put an Easton ec90 carbon seatpost on my Schwinn Paramount. Went out on a century ride and found the seat post slowly slipped. Over the span of 20-30 miles the post slipped 4-5 cm. 🙁

    Measured the post and it calibrates as it should @ 27.2 as is the seat tube. The seat post clamp is as tight as it can get. Any ideas for a remedy?

    Thanks

  2. Home-made alu shims can do the trick 😄

  3. spinerguy said:

    Home-made alu shims can do the trick 😄

    Thanks; would you use aluminium foil or a soda can

  4. baryzu said:

    Thanks; would you use aluminium foil or a soda can

    Another confirmation of why not to waste money on a CF post.Only a Bud beer can will work. And, no greeze on the post or inside the seattube.

  5. Before you make a bad situation worse by using a beer can shim try this:

    1. Thoroughly clean the inside of the seat tube and the outside of the seatpost with rubbing alcohol -- you want both surfaces CLEAN and dry. If you can slip off the clamp collar, do so and clean it 00 lightly grease the threads of the bolt and nut/treaded area of clamp.

    2. Spray three to five LIGHT coats of cheap hair spray on the part of the seatpost that will be inside the seat tube, makeing sure you get the clamp area. Let the hair spray dry well between coats.

    3. Carefully assemble, trying to pus the seat post straight down, not rotating it from side to side. Torque the bolt, being careful not to overtighten and crush the cf seatpost.

    This works wonders on handlebars that want to rotate, esp. cf bars and stems that you don't want to over tighten.

    Terry D.

  6. Bititanio said:

    Before you make a bad situation worse by using a beer can shim try this:

    1. Thoroughly clean the inside of the seat tube and the outside of the seatpost with rubbing alcohol -- you want both surfaces CLEAN and dry. If you can slip off the clamp collar, do so and clean it 00 lightly grease the threads of the bolt and nut/treaded area of clamp.

    2. Spray three to five LIGHT coats of cheap hair spray on the part of the seatpost that will be inside the seat tube, makeing sure you get the clamp area. Let the hair spray dry well between coats.

    3. Carefully assemble, trying to pus the seat post straight down, not rotating it from side to side. Torque the bolt, being careful not to overtighten and crush the cf seatpost.

    This works wonders on handlebars that want to rotate, esp. cf bars and stems that you don't want to over tighten.

    Terry D.

    Interesting approach>

    Why do u say an aluminum shim would make a bad situation worse?

    Would you guess the hair spray would need periodic refreshing?

  7. I've seen guys stuff too thick a shim in, gouging the cf.

    Once in, the hair spray should not need any refreshing, unless you remove the seatpost or twist it from side to side....
    Terry D.

  8. Hi,

    Also take a look at my thread titled "Dedacciai Carbon Seatpost".

    I did not mention in my thread the fact that some people wrap a band of "latoen koper" around the seatpost. Latoenkoper is available in several thicknesses. Latoen is not a word, not in English neither in Dutch. Koper means cupper (the metal). This should be working perfect. Maybe you can buy it at the local tools shop? I am not sure where to get it but I have heard it should work out great. Maybe you get info on google about it.

    The hairspray trick should also work very well, I have heard. Some people use paint or glue (Pattex) instead of hairspray.

    Regards, Frank.

  9. Degrease well and hairspray the post and it wont slip. Dont be afraid to tighten as it can take it.

  10. Definitely NOT Bud, even if we're talking the czech version (not sure where you are located). Ich.

  11. shokhead said:

    Dont be afraid to tighten as it can take it.

    BS!........

  12. I recently read a tip in Bicycling Magazine to insert a small thin piece of an old t-shirt between the seat post & tube. I have had the same problem since I starting using Easton E70 seat tube, so far I have just been carrying the allen wrench and raising it back when it needs it. My first ride on it was a century on some terribly bumpy mountain roads in Mammoth, my knees starting killing and I realized my seat had dropped between 1 and 2 inches.

  13. Thanks to all for replies. I spoke with manufactures rep today. Their concern with hairspray is that it eventually will eat through the clear coat.
    Guess I'll work extra hard on degreasing the seat tube then try homemade shim.

  14. OCRoadie said:

    I recently read a tip in Bicycling Magazine to insert a small thin piece of an old t-shirt between the seat post & tube. I have had the same problem since I starting using Easton E70 seat tube, so far I have just been carrying the allen wrench and raising it back when it needs it. My first ride on it was a century on some terribly bumpy mountain roads in Mammoth, my knees starting killing and I realized my seat had dropped between 1 and 2 inches.

    yes; I'm feeling it in the knees. I like the t-shirt idea since it can not scratch the carbon. Has it worked for you

  15. I don't know, I haven't tried it yet. I always forget about until I'm halfway through a ride. I have noticed that after a couple of tightenings, the post slips a lot less. I'll try and remember to try the shirt trick, if you happen to try it let me know how it works🙂 Remember to get as much old grease out of the seat tube as possible. For that, I took an old soft rag and wrapped it around something that I could get down the seat tube.

  16. boudreaux said:

    BS!........

    Doint be a weenie,tighten it,it wont break.

  17. shokhead said:

    Doint be a weenie,tighten it,it wont break.

    BS!........

  18. First soak your post in some gasoline overnight to soften it up just a bit. Then grab it with a Vice Grip and squeeze real hard to ovalize the post in the area of the clamp. Finally, take a flat file and rough up the bottom 1/3 of the length for the best friction.

    Then go get a Thomson Elite aluminum post.

  19. DiabloScott said:

    First soak your post in some gasoline overnight to soften it up just a bit. Then grab it with a Vice Grip and squeeze real hard to ovalize the post in the area of the clamp. Finally, take a flat file and rough up the bottom 1/3 of the length for the best friction.

    Then go get a Thomson Elite aluminum post.

    LOL, and agree on the Thomson Elite...it's a strong post that you can clamp as tight as you like and not have to worry about. CF for frames, forks and stays is fine, but a CF post that limits clamp bolt torque to 5 nm isn't something I'd fool with.

  20. dhk said:

    LOL, and agree on the Thomson Elite...it's a strong post that you can clamp as tight as you like and not have to worry about. CF for frames, forks and stays is fine, but a CF post that limits clamp bolt torque to 5 nm isn't something I'd fool with.

    Your no weenie.

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.