Schlumpf 36

Try 170 or even 175mm cranks. Using 140's in 1.5 mode (56" effective
wheel diameter) is equal to 90mm cranks on a direct drive coker.

--
unisk8r
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Florian sent me 170mm original schlumpf cranks. I still have cranks in
different sizes from my old selfmade 36" uni. Pictures of the old one
are here http://www.wuk.at/hochrad/berichte/einrad_hans.php (German
sorry!)

I rode my old one with 125 and I loved it. I thought, that putting on
the 170 mm cranks would be a waste of potential. I can always do that
and I wanted to get the 170mm cranks from Florian, because I thought,
that I would have problems with the shorter ones.
Maybe I exaggerated the difficulty in 1:1.5 mode. On Saturday I rode 15
km. I mounted shifted up and rode 7 km then I shifted down, made a
U-turn, shifted up and rode back, shifted down and dismounted. No UPD
all the way, all flat, a litte wind. Today I rode 28 km, I mounted,
shifted up and rode 14 km. On the way back I shifted up and down a few
times and had 1 UPD shifting up and 1 UPD shifting down. So I need to
concentrate, when in 1:1.5 mode, but it is not impossible. I hope I
will get used to it soon. I am happy to have the option to put on 170
mm cranks, and things will surely be much easier then, but I want to
stay with the 140 mm for a while now.

I have not tried to change cranks on the Schlumpf and I am a bit
anxious about it because I for sure do not want to ruin the hub. But
maybe the 170ers will be my option in the end.

--
hans
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Florian sent me 170mm original schlumpf cranks. I still have cranks in
different sizes from my old selfmade 36" uni. Pictures of the old one
are here http://www.wuk.at/hochrad/berichte/einrad_hans.php (German
sorry!)

I rode my old one with 125 and I loved it. I thought, that putting on
the 170 mm cranks would be a waste of potential. I can always do that
and I wanted to get the 170mm cranks from Florian, because I thought,
that I would have problems with the shorter ones.
Maybe I exaggerated the difficulty in 1:1.5 mode. On Saturday I rode 15
km. I mounted shifted up and rode 7 km then I shifted down, made a
U-turn, shifted up and rode back, shifted down and dismounted. No UPD
all the way, all flat, a litte wind. Today I rode 28 km, I mounted,
shifted up and rode 14 km. On the way back I shifted up and down a few
times and had 1 UPD shifting up and 1 UPD shifting down. So I need to
concentrate, when in 1:1.5 mode, but it is not impossible. I hope I
will get used to it soon. I am happy to have the option to put on 170
mm cranks, and things will surely be much easier then, but I want to
stay with the 140 mm for a while now.

I have not tried to change cranks on the Schlumpf and I am a bit
anxious about it because I for sure do not want to ruin the hub. But
maybe the 170ers will be my option in the end.

--
hans
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hans, that's one hell of a unicycle you got yourself there 🙂

--
flyer
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Hans,

Thanks for posting the pictures of your setup. Does the wheel feel
strong when you ride it or does it flex? Does anyone else have an
opinion on Hans' 4 cross pattern setup? I still have a lot to look
into but if I were to go ahead with the schlumpf 36 it looks like my
best option now is to order the tom miller spokes and follow Hans'
pattern and have a good wheelbuilder in my area assemble the wheel.

Dave,
Thanks for your emails and the post. I understand your position and
think its great that you only wish to produce the best quality
unicycles. If I have any other projects in mind I will be sure to
contact you.

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siafirede
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It feels strong enough, I do not feel it flex. I have a break and it
does not rub. I did some short and steep uphill and there was no break
rubbing.
Just remember the hub is wider than a standard Coker hub and the
flanges are bigger so the wheel is a little stronger than a standard
Coker wheel. I have an Airfoil rim, that adds to the wheel strength.

I am sure, the uni is strong enough for road riding. I do not plan to
muni, jump or UPD with it ;-)

--
hans
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hans said:

I do not plan to muni, jump or UPD with it

Hans-

Planning a UPD is contradictory.

--
harper

-Greg Harper

B L U E S H I F T

*jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

This is still my nth post....*AWESOME!!!*
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harper said:

Planning a UPD is contradictory.

I always plan on mine...the only thing I leave open is the exact time
of occurence.

--
tomblackwood

Tailgate at your own risk...
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Am I the only person that doesn't like super wide hubs or cranks with
q-factor on a coker?

Yes they may increase the strength of the wheel so that fat people or
people who want to do trials on their coker or stand on their wheel
sideways can own a coker.

But they make it feel like riding a horse. It's okay if you've got wide
legs and ride horses a lot, but if your knees feel the right distance
apart with a narrow hub, a wider hub just doesn't feel nice. It feels
all wiggly and inefficient too.

I noticed riding behind John H on the 10 hour 100 mile ride, he has
cranks with a q factor and rides noticeably more wiggly than me.

I seem to remember Ken Looi said something similar about the wide hub a
bit back, but I might be going mad.

Whilst theoretical strength is nice, if it's at the expense of riding
performance, then surely you have to ask whether it's worth it for a
road wheel, when even the stock coker doesn't break when used for road
riding.

Joe

--
joemarshall

my pics http://gallery.unicyclist.com/albuq44
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joemarshall said:

Am I the only person that doesn't like super wide hubs or cranks with
q-factor on a coker?

Yes they may increase the strength of the wheel so that fat people or
people who want to do trials on their coker or stand on their wheel
sideways can own a coker.

But they make it feel like riding a horse. It's okay if you've got wide
legs and ride horses a lot, but if your knees feel the right distance
apart with a narrow hub, a wider hub just doesn't feel nice. It feels
all wiggly and inefficient too.

I noticed riding behind John H on the 10 hour 100 mile ride, he has
cranks with a q factor and rides noticeably more wiggly than me.

I seem to remember Ken Looi said something similar about the wide hub a
bit back, but I might be going mad.

Whilst theoretical strength is nice, if it's at the expense of riding
performance, then surely you have to ask whether it's worth it for a
road wheel, when even the stock coker doesn't break when used for road
riding.

Joe

I like narrow hubs too- but I don't weigh much and I dont' use brakes.
I did have a quick ride on Beau Hoovers wide hub, and didn't notice too
much difference, although it was at relatively low speeds. I think
long cranks affect wheel wobble more than Q-factor. Short cranks feel
so smooth on the downhill. Some people tend to wobble more than others
too- something I noticed alot on the AUT. People like Scot Cooper have
virtually no wobble, Bronson, Nathan Hoover and I have a tiny amount,
Andy C and Irene slightly more, and Beau wiggles all over the place but
it doens't seem to slow him down :p

--
GizmoDuck

'www.adventureunicyclist.com' (http://www.adventureunicyclist.com/)
'Laos Unicycle Tour' (http://www.laosunitour.org)
'New Zealand Unicycle Federation' (http://www.unicycle.org.nz)

"It's not a unicycle ride if it's less than 30km." - note to self
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harper said:

hans said:

I do not plan to muni, jump or UPD with it

Planning a UPD is contradictory.

But NOT planning a UPD is not.

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
--
"erectile function trumps public image - David Stone, commenting on the importance of seat comfort"