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Salzburg + southeast Germany

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rec.bicycles.rides
Published
23 September 2006
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27 September 2006
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Ken Roberts
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  1. Sharon and I finally got to try out riding in Austria and Germany, and we
    were very impressed. I put some photos up at
    http://www.roberts-1.com/t/b06/a/k
    What struck us:
    * incredibly organized routes and trailways for bicycling.
    * more people out riding than anywhere we've been so far.
    * high quality of the riding + scenery off the main river routes.
    * high density of quiet roads to explore with freedom.
    * new long distance cycle-touring routes that do not follow the rivers.

    What we found was lots of pretty farms with flowers and horses and cows,
    with mountains with pointy peaks as a background, variety of hills, some
    steep but most moderate, seemed like most of the climbs were led to nice
    views and/or fun downhills. Some lakes, lots of pretty villages with those
    funny-round-ish church steeples and bakeries. Roads mostly good-quality
    asphalt and sufficiently wide for the amount of vehicle traffic.

    We had been hesitant to go there because the reports we'd seen were about
    trailways along the major rivers like the Donau, Inn, Salzach -- and that's
    not our style. Instead we did our usual kind of riding like home in the
    Hudson valley, exploring out on the roads in the hills and valleys and
    villages of pretty farm country and finishing each day back where we
    started. Lots of fun for us, and we saw lots of local riders doing the same
    kind of thing.

    We stayed in a hotel near on the outskirts of Salzburg. A couple of days we
    rode from our hotel, a couple of other days we put the bicycle in our rental
    car to start somewhere else (in the Salzkammergut lakes and in the Czech
    republic). We started out planning our bicycling loops by choosing roads
    marked scenic green on our Michelin map which sorta took us to some
    objective that sounded interesting like a lake or a town -- so the first
    afternoon we picked the Obertrumer See, and another day we picked the
    Wagingersee.

    We soon discovered that the non-river areas were full of signed bicycle
    routes. Then on our way to the Wagingersee we stopped at a bookstore in
    Traunstein and they prominently displayed detailed bicycling maps -- usually
    two competing maps for any nearby region we could think of -- and that's not
    counting the computer CDs we could have bought. Actually trying to follow
    all those maps and signs was more entertaining. We eventually figured out
    that if we followed road signs naming villages we could find on our map,
    then at least we'd have a good clue where we were.

    other things:
    * long distance cycle-tourism: Two non-river routes which we happened to
    find ourselves on sections of -- which seemed nice were: Mozart radweg
    (wanders around the Chiemgau area of Germany and in Austria within 150km of
    Salzburg) and Bodensee-to-Koenigssee radweg (from Lake Constance to
    Berchtesgaden) -- both have obvious websites.
    * Salzkammergut lakes were indeed pretty, and despite being surrounded by
    serious hills, much of the riding was gentle. We found some quiet pretty
    roads following a bicycle route with the romantic designation "R2".
    * the lengths to which Salzkammergut goes to be bicycle-friendly are
    amazing: a little bicycle ferry to make it more convenient to visit St
    Wolfgang, a separate bicycle tunnel (with view areas) next to the car
    tunnel. I do not know how other bicycling destinations intend to compete.
    * a large percentage of the off-road bicycle trails which do not follow
    rivers are next to vehicle roads. For my own bicycling I'd have been happy
    if they'd just used the same amount of space to make a wider roadway -- but
    if having a separated path gets lots more people out bicycling, I guess it
    must be good.
    * we were glad to find some nice bicycle paths in the city of Salzburg
    itself.
    * the number of people we saw out bicycling on weekdays was amazing. I don't
    know where people got the idea that Italy was a big bicycling country
    compared with this, and it seemed like clearly more riders than most places
    I've been in France.

    Ken

    P.S. We also spent a couple of days doing the same style of riding far west
    near the Bodensee and St Gallen (Switzerland + Germany around Lake
    Constance). Most of the same observations apply, except that the mountain
    peaks weren't as close. Lots more fun + pretty bicycling-friendly terrain to
    be explored -- except next time we ride around the west end of the Bodensee
    from Konstanz to Meersburg, we'll choose a non-weekend day so we won't have
    to deal with so much bicycling traffic.

  2. Ken Roberts said:

    * the number of people we saw out bicycling on weekdays was amazing. I don't
    know where people got the idea that Italy was a big bicycling country
    compared with this,

    I don't know either.
    As a matter of fact in Italy it is usually quite hard to find a
    reasonable way to bike from one place to another It takes a lot of
    experience and ingenuity in map reading, if not luck.
    Road signs are never put up for riders' benefit; tunnels are unlit or
    poorly so and detours simply forgotten about, if not just blocked off;
    trains that let you take a bike on are becoming rarer and rarer on most
    important lines; bicycle paths are put up to hit the headlines on the
    newspapers, for political reasons in fact: they are just a joke.
    Beware!

    Sergio
    Pisa

  3. Quoted message said:


    Ken Roberts said:

    * the number of people we saw out bicycling on weekdays was amazing. I don't
    know where people got the idea that Italy was a big bicycling country
    compared with this,

    I don't know either.
    As a matter of fact in Italy it is usually quite hard to find a
    reasonable way to bike from one place to another It takes a lot of
    experience and ingenuity in map reading, if not luck.
    Road signs are never put up for riders' benefit; tunnels are unlit or
    poorly so and detours simply forgotten about, if not just blocked off;
    trains that let you take a bike on are becoming rarer and rarer on most
    important lines; bicycle paths are put up to hit the headlines on the
    newspapers, for political reasons in fact: they are just a joke.
    Beware!

    Sergio
    Pisa

    Next Euro trip, GPS is at the top of the packing list.

  4. R Brickston wrote

    Quoted message said:

    Next Euro trip, GPS is at the top of the packing list.

    I have not found navigation in Europe harder than in USA, and in one way
    easier -- based on riding so far in France, Italy, Switzerland, Austria,
    Germany, Spain, and a day in the Czech republic.

    The key difference I find is that road signs in USA tend to be based on the
    _road_ -- its name or number. Road signs in Europe tend to be based on the
    _place_ or places the road is going toward -- though some areas, especially
    France, are adding lots of road numbers. Navigation by either system can
    break down if signs are missing or misleading, or if the name on the sign
    doesn't agree with your out-of-date or inaccurate map.

    Advantage of the European approach is that if the name of the place you want
    to get to has been selected to appear on the road signs, you can mostly just
    keep following that place name thru several intersections and turns to get
    to where you're going, not worry about changes in road names.

    Most of the time in Europe, Sharon and I have some 1:200000 map, and we find
    that if we stick to roads shown and places named on that scale of map (which
    does not show all the little roads), we don't have much problem with
    navigation and we find pretty + interesting riding (and for us this works in
    Italy just as well as in other countries).

    The tricky part comes when we see some interesting little road or bike route
    sign that lures us onto the smaller roads, and then things don't look like
    we expected -- especially if it's getting late in the day or the weather is
    turning bad.

    So I have not used GPS for navigation in Europe, and have not thought I
    needed it. I briefly tried GPS in USA, but found it more of hassle than it
    was worth, so now I'm back to maps and road signs for both.

    Ken

  5. Ken Roberts said:

    I have not found navigation in Europe harder than in USA, and in one way
    easier -- based on riding so far in France, Italy, Switzerland, Austria,
    Germany, Spain, and a day in the Czech republic.

    Europe is rather varied, I reckon.
    Let me talk Italy.
    Identification numbers of the roads are not always easy, nor possible,
    to spot.
    You invariable have to rely on signs telling destination towns: these
    are always there.
    Which towns in that direction is up to the Authority that put up the
    signs; so often they are simply stupid, and they can be quite
    misleading.
    More often than not, when a new road has been opened to avoid through
    traffic, you simply cannot identify the most direct road, usually the
    old road, that you want to stay on. So, if you follow the signs, you
    might be taken on a long detour and, in some cases, to the entrance of
    a tunnel that you are not allowed to enter, and in fact you would not
    want to challange.
    In short, you often simply must ignore signs put up for motorists; nor
    are there so many of them for bike riders.

    Sergio
    Pisa

  6. Sergio wrote

    Quoted message said:

    Let me talk about Italy

    I do not remember navigating in Italy to be significantly harder or easier
    than other European countries or the United States -- and I've cycled and
    skated on roads in lots of places around Italy -- though surely not as many
    places and as many days as Sergio.

    So maybe I've just been lucky. Or maybe since I'm just a visitor, I don't
    attempt as sophisticated routes and difficult goals as Sergio. Or maybe
    since I'm from USA, I don't expect much support for bicyclists or
    road-skaters. Anyway I sure hope I'll get the chance to go to Italy for more
    bicycle touring.

    I do bring one special piece of equipment for safer + better cycling in
    Europe:
    GSM mobile phone
    with SIM card(s) that works in the countries I'm visiting.

    Ken

  7. Ken Roberts said:
    Quoted message said:

    Let me talk about Italy

    Quoted message said:

    I do not remember navigating in Italy to be significantly harder or
    easier than other European countries or the United States -- and
    I've cycled and skated on roads in lots of places around Italy --
    though surely not as many places and as many days as Sergio.

    Typically in south Tirol between Merano and Bolzano, roundabouts have
    been built at many road junctions with signs that try to direct people
    to their toll autostrada with no alternative sign for the conventional
    highway. I've learned to follow my nose in those area and not the
    signs.

    In addition, a destination at one road junction often has no distance
    given and is not present on the sign at the next road junction. This
    was once better and may again get better as enough complaints are
    registered.

    Quoted message said:

    So maybe I've just been lucky. Or maybe since I'm just a visitor, I
    don't attempt as sophisticated routes and difficult goals as Sergio.
    Or maybe since I'm from USA, I don't expect much support for
    bicyclists or road-skaters. Anyway I sure hope I'll get the chance
    to go to Italy for more bicycle touring.

    The route I described is not complex and was once easily understood.

    Quoted message said:

    I do bring one special piece of equipment for safer + better cycling
    in Europe:

    Quoted message said:

    GSM mobile phone with SIM card(s) that works in the countries I'm
    visiting.

    You can do that with Cingular, for instance, the expanded service
    costs $5.60/mo and works like a charm. You can enter phone numbers
    into your directory with the international and country area code and
    they will work everywhere. I had no problem telephoning from Praha or
    Slovenia, tho the USA, local calls, and to my riding companion who
    also had international service.

    Jobst Brandt

  8. Quoted message said:
    Ken Roberts said:
    Quoted message said:

    Let me talk about Italy

    Quoted message said:

    I do not remember navigating in Italy to be significantly harder or
    easier than other European countries or the United States -- and
    I've cycled and skated on roads in lots of places around Italy --
    though surely not as many places and as many days as Sergio.

    Typically in south Tirol between Merano and Bolzano, roundabouts have
    been built at many road junctions with signs that try to direct people
    to their toll autostrada with no alternative sign for the conventional
    highway. I've learned to follow my nose in those area and not the
    signs.

    In addition, a destination at one road junction often has no distance
    given and is not present on the sign at the next road junction. This
    was once better and may again get better as enough complaints are
    registered.

    Quoted message said:

    So maybe I've just been lucky. Or maybe since I'm just a visitor, I
    don't attempt as sophisticated routes and difficult goals as Sergio.
    Or maybe since I'm from USA, I don't expect much support for
    bicyclists or road-skaters. Anyway I sure hope I'll get the chance
    to go to Italy for more bicycle touring.

    The route I described is not complex and was once easily understood.

    Quoted message said:

    I do bring one special piece of equipment for safer + better cycling
    in Europe:

    Quoted message said:

    GSM mobile phone with SIM card(s) that works in the countries I'm
    visiting.

    You can do that with Cingular, for instance, the expanded service
    costs $5.60/mo and works like a charm. You can enter phone numbers
    into your directory with the international and country area code and
    they will work everywhere. I had no problem telephoning from Praha or
    Slovenia, tho the USA, local calls, and to my riding companion who
    also had international service.

    Jobst Brandt

    Unless Cingular has significantly dropped their international roaming
    rates, it is cheaper to buy the SIM card and use an unlocked GSM
    phone.

  9. Ken Roberts said:

    I do not remember navigating in Italy to be significantly harder or easier
    than other European countries or the United States -- and I've cycled and
    skated on roads in lots of places around Italy -- though surely not as many
    places and as many days as Sergio.

    So maybe I've just been lucky. Or maybe since I'm just a visitor, I don't
    attempt as sophisticated routes and difficult goals as Sergio. Or maybe
    since I'm from USA, I don't expect much support for bicyclists or
    road-skaters. Anyway I sure hope I'll get the chance to go to Italy for more
    bicycle touring.

    I do bring one special piece of equipment for safer + better cycling in
    Europe:
    GSM mobile phone
    with SIM card(s) that works in the countries I'm visiting.

    Ken

    I also didn't have any problem finding my way in northern Italy. Near
    the end of my two week bike tour of northern Italy, I ride into Trento
    and from Trento I put my bike and myself on the train to Milan. At
    Milan central station I had intended to ride to Milan international
    airport. Couldn't do it. I don't think it's possible. The roads are too
    maze-like. I ended up putting my bike in a taxi .

  10. Quoted message said:
    Ken Roberts said:
    Quoted message said:

    Let me talk about Italy


    I do not remember navigating in Italy to be significantly harder or
    easier than other European countries or the United States


    Typically in south Tirol between Merano and Bolzano,

    I just won't annoy you with the many examples I could recounter. A few
    will suffice, though.
    Between Merano and Bolzano if you follow plainly the signs you will
    detour so many little villages and find yoursef into unnecessary
    tunnels.
    I have had problemsf finding my way out of Bolzano heading to Lana
    d'Adige.
    Going back to downtown Milano from near Lecco, and following the most
    obvious signs, I found myself on a Superstrada, where bikes are not
    allowed.
    Nevertheless, I have biked from downtown Milano almost into any
    direction successfully when navigating by feeling. However I got lost
    when I tried to stay on, marked!, bike paths going through the much
    advertised Parco del Ticino. I gave up and rode down to Magenta to hit
    the SS del Sempione.

    But Italy is not at all the only bad example. Why is it that, both
    times I was there in recent years, I felt forced onto the fast divided
    highway to descend from Chamonix to Saint Gervais?
    One system I particularly appreciated was the one in Hungary, Those
    roads bear a number and how many digits tell you the category of the
    road.

    Cheers

    Sergio
    Pisa

  11. Quoted message said:

    Between Merano and Bolzano if you follow plainly the signs you will
    detour so many little villages and find yoursef into unnecessary
    tunnels.

    Errata Corrige
    I meant north of Merano, between Merano and Prato allo Stelvio.

    Sergio
    Pisa

  12. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Between Merano and Bolzano if you follow plainly the signs you will
    detour so many little villages and find yoursef into unnecessary
    tunnels.

    Errata Corrige
    I meant north of Merano, between Merano and Prato allo Stelvio.

    ....... and, further down, looking for the way out of Merano to Lana
    d'Adige and Bolzano..
    At Lana d'Adige I recall seeing many foreign bike riders desperately
    searching for the bike trail to jump back onto, again.
    As Jobst correctly says, it is not easy at all to find the old route
    for Bolzano; you need to hop to the other side of the river, but no
    signs point you there. As a matter of fact, once you hit that road you
    rejoice, since there is so little traffic. No wonder!

    Sergio
    Pisa

    Quoted message said:


    Sergio
    Pisa

  13. R Brickston wrote

    Quoted message said:

    Unless Cingular has significantly dropped their international
    roaming rates, it is cheaper to buy the SIM card and use an unlocked GSM
    phone.

    Yes, I think that getting a local country SIM card is generally cheaper, if
    you're going to use the phone a lot. Usually you need to have your own
    _unlocked_ GSM phone in order to use them. Both unlocked phones and country
    SIM cards can be purchased from Web stores.

    U.S. mobile services other than Cingular also offer international roaming
    accounts for GSM phones. If you intend to use the account for multiple
    trips, I'd suggest finding a deal that lets you take only their SIM card,
    and use it with your own (unlocked) GSM phone -- instead of renting or
    purchasing a package with a locked GSM phone that will not permit you to
    switch to a local-country SIM card.

    Advantages of a local-country SIM card for GSM phone:
    * often cheaper rates in the local country -- provided you intend to send or
    receive enough calls to use a significant amount of the prepaid minutes.
    * if you have local-country riding partners who want to call you, then your
    number will be an in-country call for them.
    * some of the local-country plans also have international roaming. (e.g. the
    Sunrise SIM card I've got for Switzerland worked fine in other countries.)

    Disadvantages:
    * if you use up the minutes on the SIM card, you have to purchase a
    recharge -- available at lots of local shops (some services have ways to pay
    for recharge by phone call or website)
    * phone menu prompts might not be in a language you know well (some SIM
    cards allow you to select English)
    * voice-mail prompts might not be in a language you know well (some services
    allow you to select English)
    * some SIM cards expire after 9 months, so if you come back to Europe every
    year around July, you might have to purchase a new SIM card with a new phone
    number (but some Euro SIM cards stay active for 12 months, and at least one
    says it will hold your phone number for 18 months)

    Advantages of an account provided thru a U.S. company:
    * no limit on minutes, no need to recharge
    * phone number does not expire
    * phone text prompts and voice-mail are in English
    * if you don't travel often outside U.S. + Canada, tends to reduce
    complexity.

    Ken

  14. Ken Roberts said:

    R Brickston wrote

    Quoted message said:

    Unless Cingular has significantly dropped their international
    roaming rates, it is cheaper to buy the SIM card and use an unlocked GSM
    phone.

    Yes, I think that getting a local country SIM card is generally cheaper, if
    you're going to use the phone a lot. Usually you need to have your own
    _unlocked_ GSM phone in order to use them. Both unlocked phones and country
    SIM cards can be purchased from Web stores.

    Of course, either strategy presumes one has a phone with the proper
    bands. For those who do not follow such things, GSM in Europe (and
    most of the world) is 900MHz and 1800 MHz bands, in the US GSM is on
    1900MHz and 850MHz. The older 900 MHz band is most widespread, so it
    is imperative in most any phone you want to use outside the US.

    - rick 'who always carries a quad-band unlocked GSM phone'

  15. Quoted message said:

    Ken Roberts wrote:
    Europe is rather varied, I reckon.
    Let me talk Italy.
    Identification numbers of the roads are not always easy, nor possible,
    to spot.
    You invariable have to rely on signs telling destination towns: these
    are always there.
    Which towns in that direction is up to the Authority that put up the
    signs; so often they are simply stupid, and they can be quite
    misleading.

    Based on riding in South Tirol and across the Po Valley towars Torino I
    have to agree with Servadio. The destinations on the signs seem to be
    randomly chosen, it's a nightmare. Anytime the road number was
    sign-posted it wasn't marked on my TCI map (and that's Italian). In
    South Tirol things are easier because of the narrow valleys, you can use
    your nose, as Jobst said. Driving around Sicilian country roads had the
    same difficulties, signs are cryptic.

    France is easy, since every junction has the road number marked,
    Switzerland is easy since every junction has both the logical
    destinations and the road number sign-posted.

    Jan Lindström

  16. Good point on the frequency bands.

    The other thing to consider is who you're _call_ on the phone if you get in
    trouble out on a ride and don't know much of the local country language.
    Good to do that research in advance -- not wait until you're standing on a
    lonely roadside in the cold rain with your front rim in a pretzel shape.

    Of course there are the country's emergency numbers.
    But sometimes it's not a "true" emergency -- more like a major mechanical
    breakdown, for which you might want some help, so . . .

    Other likely possible phone numbers to find people to speak English are:
    * local tourist office (for hours when they're open)
    * hotel where you just stayed last night, or are planning to stay this
    night - (If you included "likelihood of speaking English" in your selection
    of possible lodging for the area -- sometimes the proprietors don't speak
    English, but their daughter learned it from TV + movies + songs).

    Those numbers are pretty easy to find in a Web search before I leave. I
    don't put most numbers into my phone, just have them printed or written down
    in a dry place.

    If you want to have more options available, there's other phone numbers
    which might come in handy:
    * taxi services
    * bicycle shops
    Doesn't hurt to have multiple phone numbers, just keep calling different
    ones until you find someone who can speak enough English to help -- or some
    Taxi companies advertise English in their phone directory listings.

    The telephone directories of lotsa major European countries are on the
    web -- searchable much like U.S. "yellow pages" by type of business -- but
    sometimes figuring out the search interface and guessing the right business
    topic words and place names is not easy. So whether Sharon and I get those
    numbers depends on how fearful we're feeing and how much time we have free
    before we leave the U.S. -- and how much we're feeling like finding phone
    numbers in another country is an interesting puzzle.

    Ken

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