Sharon and I finally got to try out riding in Austria and Germany, and we
were very impressed. I put some photos up at
http://www.roberts-1.com/t/b06/a/k
What struck us:
* incredibly organized routes and trailways for bicycling.
* more people out riding than anywhere we've been so far.
* high quality of the riding + scenery off the main river routes.
* high density of quiet roads to explore with freedom.
* new long distance cycle-touring routes that do not follow the rivers.
What we found was lots of pretty farms with flowers and horses and cows,
with mountains with pointy peaks as a background, variety of hills, some
steep but most moderate, seemed like most of the climbs were led to nice
views and/or fun downhills. Some lakes, lots of pretty villages with those
funny-round-ish church steeples and bakeries. Roads mostly good-quality
asphalt and sufficiently wide for the amount of vehicle traffic.
We had been hesitant to go there because the reports we'd seen were about
trailways along the major rivers like the Donau, Inn, Salzach -- and that's
not our style. Instead we did our usual kind of riding like home in the
Hudson valley, exploring out on the roads in the hills and valleys and
villages of pretty farm country and finishing each day back where we
started. Lots of fun for us, and we saw lots of local riders doing the same
kind of thing.
We stayed in a hotel near on the outskirts of Salzburg. A couple of days we
rode from our hotel, a couple of other days we put the bicycle in our rental
car to start somewhere else (in the Salzkammergut lakes and in the Czech
republic). We started out planning our bicycling loops by choosing roads
marked scenic green on our Michelin map which sorta took us to some
objective that sounded interesting like a lake or a town -- so the first
afternoon we picked the Obertrumer See, and another day we picked the
Wagingersee.
We soon discovered that the non-river areas were full of signed bicycle
routes. Then on our way to the Wagingersee we stopped at a bookstore in
Traunstein and they prominently displayed detailed bicycling maps -- usually
two competing maps for any nearby region we could think of -- and that's not
counting the computer CDs we could have bought. Actually trying to follow
all those maps and signs was more entertaining. We eventually figured out
that if we followed road signs naming villages we could find on our map,
then at least we'd have a good clue where we were.
other things:
* long distance cycle-tourism: Two non-river routes which we happened to
find ourselves on sections of -- which seemed nice were: Mozart radweg
(wanders around the Chiemgau area of Germany and in Austria within 150km of
Salzburg) and Bodensee-to-Koenigssee radweg (from Lake Constance to
Berchtesgaden) -- both have obvious websites.
* Salzkammergut lakes were indeed pretty, and despite being surrounded by
serious hills, much of the riding was gentle. We found some quiet pretty
roads following a bicycle route with the romantic designation "R2".
* the lengths to which Salzkammergut goes to be bicycle-friendly are
amazing: a little bicycle ferry to make it more convenient to visit St
Wolfgang, a separate bicycle tunnel (with view areas) next to the car
tunnel. I do not know how other bicycling destinations intend to compete.
* a large percentage of the off-road bicycle trails which do not follow
rivers are next to vehicle roads. For my own bicycling I'd have been happy
if they'd just used the same amount of space to make a wider roadway -- but
if having a separated path gets lots more people out bicycling, I guess it
must be good.
* we were glad to find some nice bicycle paths in the city of Salzburg
itself.
* the number of people we saw out bicycling on weekdays was amazing. I don't
know where people got the idea that Italy was a big bicycling country
compared with this, and it seemed like clearly more riders than most places
I've been in France.
Ken
P.S. We also spent a couple of days doing the same style of riding far west
near the Bodensee and St Gallen (Switzerland + Germany around Lake
Constance). Most of the same observations apply, except that the mountain
peaks weren't as close. Lots more fun + pretty bicycling-friendly terrain to
be explored -- except next time we ride around the west end of the Bodensee
from Konstanz to Meersburg, we'll choose a non-weekend day so we won't have
to deal with so much bicycling traffic.