How the heck does the hub on the Rolf Vector Comp wheels dissasemble? I could attach a 17 mm wrench on each side of the hub and unscrew a nut on the driveside. After that I found nothing else that was removable. On all other hubs I have there are two nuts on each side, but not so on these hubs. I dismounted the cassette and still nothing. Do I have to remove the freewheel also? And in that case how is that done. I just want to clean the hub and put in fresh grease.
How the heck does the hub on the Rolf Vector Comp wheels dissasemble? I could attach a 17 mm wrench on each side of the hub and unscrew a nut on the driveside. After that I found nothing else that was removable. On all other hubs I have there are two nuts on each side, but not so on these hubs. I dismounted the cassette and still nothing. Do I have to remove the freewheel also? And in that case how is that done. I just want to clean the hub and put in fresh grease.
I think this is a Hugi hub, no? In that case, you can download the tech manual (complete with schematics) from dtswiss.comindex.aspOpen ↗. No sure about which model is used in the VCs. VPs I think used the 240.
How the heck does the hub on the Rolf Vector Comp wheels dissasemble? I could attach a 17 mm wrench on each side of the hub and unscrew a nut on the driveside. After that I found nothing else that was removable. On all other hubs I have there are two nuts on each side, but not so on these hubs. I dismounted the cassette and still nothing. Do I have to remove the freewheel also? And in that case how is that done. I just want to clean the hub and put in fresh grease.
I think this is a Hugi hub, no? In that case, you can download the tech manual (complete with schematics) from dtswiss.comindex.aspOpen ↗. No sure about which model is used in the VCs. VPs I think used the 240.
HTH
Thanks. It's kind of hard to identify which one I've got. Especially since the ones on display seem to have either 28 or 32 spokeholes. My rear hub has 20 spokes. Upon close examination it looks like it cannot be disassembled due to the bearings being in a casttette of some kind. Can anybody confirm that. It seems to turn nicely. I just wanted to lube everything up in preparation for the upcoming season. Maybe I can skip these hubs then. However the freewheel seems to be a little sticky. Is there any way to dismount just the freewheel and regrease it I wonder?
How the heck does the hub on the Rolf Vector Comp wheels dissasemble? I could attach a 17 mm wrench on each side of the hub and unscrew a nut on the driveside. After that I found nothing else that was removable. On all other hubs I have there are two nuts on each side, but not so on these hubs. I dismounted the cassette and still nothing. Do I have to remove the freewheel also? And in that case how is that done. I just want to clean the hub and put in fresh grease.
I think this is a Hugi hub, no? In that case, you can download the tech manual (complete with schematics) from dtswiss.comindex.aspOpen ↗. No sure about which model is used in the VCs. VPs I think used the 240.
HTH
Thanks. It's kind of hard to identify which one I've got. Especially since the ones on display seem to have either 28 or 32 spokeholes. My rear hub has 20 spokes. Upon close examination it looks like it cannot be disassembled due to the bearings being in a casttette of some kind. Can anybody confirm that. It seems to turn nicely. I just wanted to lube everything up in preparation for the upcoming season. Maybe I can skip these hubs then. However the freewheel seems to be a little sticky. Is there any way to dismount just the freewheel and regrease it I wonder?
You probably have the Onyx internals. But I agree you can probably skip the overhaul -- the bearings are very durable.
Per Elmsäter wrote: > How the heck does the hub on the Rolf Vector Comp > wheels dissasemble? I could attach a 17 mm wrench on > each side of the hub and unscrew a nut on the > driveside. After that I found nothing else that was > removable. On all other hubs I have there are two nuts > on each side, but not so on these hubs. I dismounted > the cassette and still nothing. Do I have to remove the > freewheel also? And in that case how is that done. I > just want to clean the hub and put in fresh grease.
I think this is a Hugi hub, no? In that case, you can download the tech manual (complete with schematics) from dtswiss.comindex.aspOpen ↗. No sure about which model is used in the VCs. VPs I think used the 240.
HTH
Thanks. It's kind of hard to identify which one I've got. Especially since the ones on display seem to have either 28 or 32 spokeholes. My rear hub has 20 spokes. Upon close examination it looks like it cannot be disassembled due to the bearings being in a casttette of some kind. Can anybody confirm that. It seems to turn nicely. I just wanted to lube everything up in preparation for the upcoming season. Maybe I can skip these hubs then. However the freewheel seems to be a little sticky. Is there any way to dismount just the freewheel and regrease it I wonder?
You probably have the Onyx internals. But I agree you can probably skip the overhaul -- the bearings are very durable.
Yes. The Onyx looks fairly much like mine apart from the number of holes in the flange of course. According to the disassembly instructions it looks like the rotor is just lifted off once the nut holding it tight is unscrewed. Maybe I was just too cautious?
Yes. The Onyx looks fairly much like mine apart from the number of holes in the flange of course. According to the disassembly instructions it looks like the rotor is just lifted off once the nut holding it tight is unscrewed. Maybe I was just too cautious?
Yep.
There is a sealed bearing in the outer end of the rotor body that's a light press fit onto the axle. Once the nut is off, remove the spacer and you'll see it under the seal.
But I still wouldn't bother taking it apart. Chances of damaging the bearings or contaminating the pawls are high unless you're meticulous.
Yes. The Onyx looks fairly much like mine apart from the number of holes in the flange of course. According to the disassembly instructions it looks like the rotor is just lifted off once the nut holding it tight is unscrewed. Maybe I was just too cautious?
Yep.
There is a sealed bearing in the outer end of the rotor body that's a light press fit onto the axle. Once the nut is off, remove the spacer and you'll see it under the seal.
But I still wouldn't bother taking it apart. Chances of damaging the bearings or contaminating the pawls are high unless you're meticulous.
Fine it looks like we are talking about the same thing and also that you know what you are talking about 😉 My wheel seems to rotate really fine on the bearings. However the rotor does not feel like it is rotating as freely as others I've got. Is this the way it's supposed to be on this model with no load on it, or do you think it would benefit from opening and applying some grease. Imagine laying the wheel horizontal with the rotor down and holding on to the rotor only. When I set the wheel spinning it won't go on and on and on like I'd like to see it. It'll spin for maybe 10 seconds ( no tire ) maybe twenty if I get it going real good. The wheel is fairly fresh. Maybe 7-8000 km.
My wheel seems to rotate really fine on the bearings. However the rotor does not feel like it is rotating as freely as others I've got. Is this the way it's supposed to be on this model with no load on it, or do you think it would benefit from opening and applying some grease. Imagine laying the wheel horizontal with the rotor down and holding on to the rotor only. When I set the wheel spinning it won't go on and on and on like I'd like to see it. It'll spin for maybe 10 seconds ( no tire ) maybe twenty if I get it going real good. The wheel is fairly fresh. Maybe 7-8000 km.
Thanks for the clear description.
I'd still be reluctant to take it apart, because of the chances of damaging a cartridge bearing or general contamination (unless you're meticulous and enjoy going carefully).
If it were mine, I'd still choose to ride it unopened. When the drag increased enough to make the top part of the chain slack, then I'd take it apart. That could be years, if ever. At that time I'd consider adding a very thin film of slippery grease on the rubber seal under the hub flange. That's been my experience of where the most drag comes from.
If it were mine, I'd still choose to ride it unopened.
16 years of experience speaking here, if it works - don't fix it. It rotates okay on the road, if you suspect any problems when you are not on the bike - ignore them. I once took a campag record hub apart and paid for it when one of the springs managed to dive down the toilet just as another family member flushed. (Don't ask).
If it were mine, I'd still choose to ride it unopened.
16 years of experience speaking here, if it works - don't fix it. It rotates okay on the road, if you suspect any problems when you are not on the bike - ignore them. I once took a campag record hub apart and paid for it when one of the springs managed to dive down the toilet just as another family member flushed. (Don't ask).
Yeah, like we're supposed to let THAT go unexplained!
My wheel seems to rotate really fine on the bearings. However the rotor does not feel like it is rotating as freely as others I've got. Is this the way it's supposed to be on this model with no load on it, or do you think it would benefit from opening and applying some grease. Imagine laying the wheel horizontal with the rotor down and holding on to the rotor only. When I set the wheel spinning it won't go on and on and on like I'd like to see it. It'll spin for maybe 10 seconds ( no tire ) maybe twenty if I get it going real good. The wheel is fairly fresh. Maybe 7-8000 km.
Thanks for the clear description.
I'd still be reluctant to take it apart, because of the chances of damaging a cartridge bearing or general contamination (unless you're meticulous and enjoy going carefully).
If it were mine, I'd still choose to ride it unopened. When the drag increased enough to make the top part of the chain slack, then I'd take it apart. That could be years, if ever. At that time I'd consider adding a very thin film of slippery grease on the rubber seal under the hub flange. That's been my experience of where the most drag comes from.
If it were mine, I'd still choose to ride it unopened.
16 years of experience speaking here, if it works - don't fix it. It rotates okay on the road, if you suspect any problems when you are not on the bike - ignore them. I once took a campag record hub apart and paid for it when one of the springs managed to dive down the toilet just as another family member flushed. (Don't ask).
Yeah, like we're supposed to let THAT go unexplained!
Bill "on second thought..." S.
What arouses my curiosity is how and why he paid for it?
