Rohloff hub frame modification

Friday said:

A friend of mine has modified a chrome-moly mountain bike frame to take
a Rohloff hub. He had the stays extended also to accommodate any wheel
size in case of problems. He has cycle toured extensively for months at
a time, mainly in Norway and Switzerland and this is the bike he thinks
is optimum for the task. Not sure about the front forks though, I gave
them to him when I gave him the frame.

Pictures can be found here.

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Rohloff/Rohloff.htm

Friday

Nice bike. I'm not sure if the smaller crank is for emergencies only or
how its shifted to,
but if I had that setup, I'd consider the totally enclosed chain guard:
the ultimate in chain life and
no maintenance oiling/adjusting chain, imo.

Per Friday:

Quoted message said:

Pictures can be found here.

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Rohloff/Rohloff.htm

I don't see anything to substitute for the missing reaction bar.

SB something Rohloff calls a "SpeedBone" in it's place.

OTOH, maybe he's just using a bolt through the disc brake mount and I can't see
it...
--
PeteCresswell

I bought a Thorn Raven frame from the SJS cycles Ebay store a few months
back. It was NOS and about 20% of the price of their current model frame.
Haven't yet got around to building it up but it's nicely thought out with
Rohloff OEM rear dropouts (so no torque arm needed), a bottom bracket
eccentric for tensioning the chain, and all the extra cable guides for the
twin gear cables.

I also fitted a Rohloff hub to a Litespeed Blue Ridge touring frame a few
years back. Some details at
http://www.users.on.net/~njpayne/bikestuff/rohloff/. I've taken that bike on
several extended tours. I wouldn't by choice go back to using a conventional
derailleur system for touring. For unloaded day riding I think a derailleur
system is still superior.

Nick

"Friday" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

A friend of mine has modified a chrome-moly mountain bike frame to take a
Rohloff hub. He had the stays extended also to accommodate any wheel size
in case of problems. He has cycle toured extensively for months at a time,
mainly in Norway and Switzerland and this is the bike he thinks is optimum
for the task. Not sure about the front forks though, I gave them to him
when I gave him the frame.

Pictures can be found here.

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Rohloff/Rohloff.htm

(PeteCresswell) said:

Per Friday:

Quoted message said:

Pictures can be found here.

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Rohloff/Rohloff.htm

I don't see anything to substitute for the missing reaction bar.

SB something Rohloff calls a "SpeedBone" in it's place.

OTOH, maybe he's just using a bolt through the disc brake mount and I can't see
it...
--
PeteCresswell

I noticed that too, but there may be an OEM 1 axle plate and extended dropout. Can't really tell, cause the QR lever is in the way.
Dan

"Nick Payne" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I bought a Thorn Raven frame from the SJS cycles Ebay store a few months
back. It was NOS and about 20% of the price of their current model frame.
Haven't yet got around to building it up but it's nicely thought out with
Rohloff OEM rear dropouts (so no torque arm needed), a bottom bracket
eccentric for tensioning the chain, and all the extra cable guides for the
twin gear cables.

I also fitted a Rohloff hub to a Litespeed Blue Ridge touring frame a few
years back. Some details at
http://www.users.on.net/~njpayne/bikestuff/rohloff/. I've taken that bike
on several extended tours. I wouldn't by choice go back to using a
conventional derailleur system for touring. For unloaded day riding I
think a derailleur system is still superior.

It looks like you also used an old threadless stem to create a mount for a
large Carradice type seat bag. What did you use for the transverse portion
of that, and how did you attach the bag?

-Jim

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"Dan Burkhart" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

(PeteCresswell) said:

Per Friday:

Quoted message said:

Pictures can be found here.

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Rohloff/Rohloff.htm

I don't see anything to substitute for the missing reaction bar.

SB something Rohloff calls a "SpeedBone" in it's place.

OTOH, maybe he's just using a bolt through the disc brake mount and I
can't see
it...
--
PeteCresswell

I noticed that too, but there may be an OEM 1 axle plate and extended
dropout. Can't really tell, cause the QR lever is in the way.
Dan

--
Dan Burkhart

I agree its difficult to see, but I think the bike pictured is using the
Rohloff sliding dropouts and hence probably the OEM1 axle plate that doesn't
require the arm or speedbone.

BobT

"Nick Payne" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

For unloaded day riding I think a derailleur system is still superior.

If you like the Rohloff Speedhub for touring, why don't you prefer it for
unloaded day riding?

Personally, I think it is the best, although very expensive, drive train for
most applications. Perhaps if I was a 120 pound racing climbing specialist,
I would want a derailleur system on my race bike because it would be
slightly lighter. Otherwise, I want a Rohloff on my fast club ride road
bike, commuter, touring, mountain bike, etc..

BobT

"ddog" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

but if I had that setup, I'd consider the totally enclosed chain guard:
the ultimate in chain life and
no maintenance oiling/adjusting chain, imo.

I agree, but how would you go about finding and fitting one. I'm gathering
parts to build a Rohloff equipped commuter/loaded touring bike while I'm
waiting for the frame to be built. I'm finding it almost impossible to find
a chain guard of any type in the U.S.A.. I've settled for a Wald chain
guard because I can't find anything else. Do you know of a source for any
other chain guards of any type including a fully enclosed, "oil bath", that
could be fitted to my Bob Jackson touring frame? I've heard that some fully
enclosed chain cases make removal of the rear wheel to fix a flat difficult.
Do you know if this is true?

BobT

BobT said:

"ddog" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

but if I had that setup, I'd consider the totally enclosed chain guard:
the ultimate in chain life and
no maintenance oiling/adjusting chain, imo.

I agree, but how would you go about finding and fitting one. I'm gathering
parts to build a Rohloff equipped commuter/loaded touring bike while I'm
waiting for the frame to be built. I'm finding it almost impossible to find
a chain guard of any type in the U.S.A.. I've settled for a Wald chain
guard because I can't find anything else. Do you know of a source for any
other chain guards of any type including a fully enclosed, "oil bath", that
could be fitted to my Bob Jackson touring frame? I've heard that some fully
enclosed chain cases make removal of the rear wheel to fix a flat difficult.
Do you know if this is true?

BobT

With regard to chainguards the US is a third world country. Visit Dutch
bicycle companies. Chainguards are so common here. Here is the ultimate
commuter:

http://www.idworx-bikes.de/nl/bikes/easy-rohler/bilder.php

Lou
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Per BobT:

Quoted message said:

I agree its difficult to see, but I think the bike pictured is using the
Rohloff sliding dropouts and hence probably the OEM1 axle plate that doesn't
require the arm or speedbone.

Could you elaborate? Bolt through one of the disc brake mounts?
--
PeteCresswell

Per BobT:

Quoted message said:

If you like the Rohloff Speedhub for touring, why don't you prefer it for
unloaded day riding?

Both my bikes have Rohloff hubs, so I can't speak from experience - but my guess
would be that a stronger rider than me might want some variation in the gaps
between gears: wider at the bottom end, and narrower at the top end.

Also, if you have to keep up with a pack, the Rohloff is a percent or two less
efficient in some gears and two pounds more weight on the climbs.
--
PeteCresswell

rSat, 20 Jan 2007 07:10:54 -0600, BobT:

Quoted message said:

I agree, but how would you go about finding and fitting one. I'm gathering
parts to build a Rohloff equipped commuter/loaded touring bike while I'm
waiting for the frame to be built. I'm finding it almost impossible to find
a chain guard of any type in the U.S.A.. I've settled for a Wald chain
guard because I can't find anything else. Do you know of a source for any
other chain guards of any type including a fully enclosed, "oil bath", that
could be fitted to my Bob Jackson touring frame?

Hebie Chaingliderb for Rohloff. No "oil bath" - but keeps away 99% of
water/dirt, easy retrofittable, mounting/dismounting without tools:
http://www.hebie.de/html/en/detail_schuetze.php?id=0350_S_42_E_1

Available in any better bike shop (at least in german speaking countries).

Andreas

Quoted message said:

With regard to chainguards the US is a third world country. Visit Dutch
bicycle companies. Chainguards are so common here. Here is the ultimate
commuter:

http://www.idworx-bikes.de/nl/bikes/easy-rohler/bilder.php

Lou

from that page: gewicht: ca. 15,2 kg [weight: about 33.5 lb.]

--
Ted Bennett

Ted Bennett said:

Quoted message said:

With regard to chainguards the US is a third world country. Visit Dutch
bicycle companies. Chainguards are so common here. Here is the ultimate
commuter:

http://www.idworx-bikes.de/nl/bikes/easy-rohler/bilder.php

Lou

from that page: gewicht: ca. 15,2 kg [weight: about 33.5 lb.]

Yes, that is correct. So?

Lou
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Lou Holtman said:

Ted Bennett said:

Quoted message said:

With regard to chainguards the US is a third world country. Visit Dutch
bicycle companies. Chainguards are so common here. Here is the ultimate
commuter:

http://www.idworx-bikes.de/nl/bikes/easy-rohler/bilder.php

Lou

from that page: gewicht: ca. 15,2 kg [weight: about 33.5 lb.]

Yes, that is correct. So?

Just that I find such a bike to be unnecessarily porky.

Why does a good commuter bike have to be so heavy? Now that racing
bikes are down to 15 or 16 lb., surely fatter tires, fenders and an
internally geared hub shouldn't double that.

--
Ted Bennett

"Ted Bennett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Just that I find such a bike to be unnecessarily porky.

This bike isn't for racing. It is for transportation. People that buy a
bike like this want to have the added "pork" of a generator, lights,
fenders, a kickstand, bigger tires, stronger wheels, a rack, a comfortable
saddle, a bell, a mirror, etc., etc.

I find it more amazing that so many people buy ultralight, ultra expensive,
racing bikes that never ever race.

my 2 cents

BobT

Ted Bennett said:

Lou Holtman said:

Ted Bennett said:

>With regard to chainguards the US is a third world country. Visit Dutch
>bicycle companies. Chainguards are so common here. Here is the ultimate
>commuter:
>
>http://www.idworx-bikes.de/nl/bikes/easy-rohler/bilder.php
>
>Lou

from that page: gewicht: ca. 15,2 kg [weight: about 33.5 lb.]

Yes, that is correct. So?

Just that I find such a bike to be unnecessarily porky.

Why does a good commuter bike have to be so heavy? Now that racing
bikes are down to 15 or 16 lb., surely fatter tires, fenders and an
internally geared hub shouldn't double that.

For a commuter bike it is not heavy. I see nothing unnecessary heavy on
that bike. Please look at de 'specificatie' and tell me what part is
unnecessary heavy for a commuter?

Lou
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Lou Holtman said:

Ted Bennett said:

Lou Holtman said:

Ted Bennett wrote:

>> With regard to chainguards the US is a third world country. Visit
>> Dutch bicycle companies. Chainguards are so common here. Here is
>> the ultimate commuter:
>>
>> http://www.idworx-bikes.de/nl/bikes/easy-rohler/bilder.php
>>
>> Lou
>
>
> from that page: gewicht: ca. 15,2 kg [weight: about 33.5 lb.]
>

Yes, that is correct. So?

Just that I find such a bike to be unnecessarily porky.

Why does a good commuter bike have to be so heavy? Now that racing
bikes are down to 15 or 16 lb., surely fatter tires, fenders and an
internally geared hub shouldn't double that.

For a commuter bike it is not heavy. I see nothing unnecessary heavy on
that bike. Please look at de 'specificatie' and tell me what part is
unnecessary heavy for a commuter?

Lou

My friend that owns the bike says that the weight is about the same as a
conventional dérailleur system because you don't need the dérailleur or
the front gears and associated front dérailleur and shifters (even
though at the moment he still has a triple chain ring on the front in
the picture.)

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Rohloff/Rohloff.htm

Friday

Friday said:

Lou Holtman said:

Ted Bennett said:

Lou Holtman <[email hidden]> wrote:

> Ted Bennett wrote:
>
>>> With regard to chainguards the US is a third world country. Visit
>>> Dutch bicycle companies. Chainguards are so common here. Here is
>>> the ultimate commuter:
>>>
>>> http://www.idworx-bikes.de/nl/bikes/easy-rohler/bilder.php
>>>
>>> Lou
>>
>>
>>
>> from that page: gewicht: ca. 15,2 kg [weight: about 33.5 lb.]
>>
>
>
> Yes, that is correct. So?

Just that I find such a bike to be unnecessarily porky.

Why does a good commuter bike have to be so heavy? Now that racing
bikes are down to 15 or 16 lb., surely fatter tires, fenders and an
internally geared hub shouldn't double that.

For a commuter bike it is not heavy. I see nothing unnecessary heavy
on that bike. Please look at de 'specificatie' and tell me what part
is unnecessary heavy for a commuter?

Lou

My friend that owns the bike says that the weight is about the same as a
conventional dérailleur system because you don't need the dérailleur or
the front gears and associated front dérailleur and shifters (even
though at the moment he still has a triple chain ring on the front in
the picture.)

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Rohloff/Rohloff.htm

Friday

Well it is still 0.5 kg heavier according to
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rohloff_Speedhub
but for a commuter or touringbike not important.

Lou
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