Road bike size

FWIW. To some extent, IMO, frame size is cosmetic ...

YOUR frame falls within the arbitrary parameters which I would think would be suitable for someone who is your height ...

Regardless, you may want to level the lower portion of the handlebars ...

AND/OR re-position the shifters so that the front face of the horns is veritcal ...

• THAT will probably involve repositioning the shifters + unwrapping-and-rewrapping the handlebar tape
  
• if necessary, a longer stem may be in your current bike's future
  

Personally, I would NOT have the nose of the saddle higher than the rear of the saddle ...

BTW. Your bike shop must have been more interested in making a sale than ensuring that the bike was suitably sized for you ...

IMO, the main disadvantage of buying an off-the-peg bike which has such a small frame is the probably-shorter crankarm length than a larger frame would probably have ...

BTW2. While a second set of water bottle mounting bosses would probably be nice, THAT is hardly a reason to change frames ... at least, IMO ...

• there is certainly room for a second water bottle inside the frame's main triangle
  
• there ARE ways to mount extra bottles on your stem, your seatpost, AND (while it's a bit crude because "tin" straps are usually involved unless there is a framebuilder near you & you are willing to pony up for him-or-her to add a pair of water bottle bosses) on the frame.
  
  

i think you are just on the limit between a 48cm or a 50cm, if they have it on the shop then change it to a 50cm, if you keep that one you need a longer stem in order to push the saddle a bit forward, the 2nd bottle cage is not that important but it is annoying in the same time not to have it... 2 bottles are needed on long rides or in hot weather, otherwise you will need to stop and refill and use bigger bottles,

I started racing on a bike with just the opposite problem - too big. Had to get a shorter stem and deep drop bars so I could get low enough.

The most important consideration is how the bike feels to you, and is it safe to ride, handling wise. In your case I would ask: can I get the saddle fore/aft where I want it, and are the handlebars high enough for me? Theoretically you could still flip the stem for a little more height. Stem length can always be added to if you are feeling a little compressed in the cockpit. There is a point however at which a bigger frame is needed.

Agree with Alf on the handlebars and saddle psoition. Are the bars rotated forward to give you extra space in the cockpit? If so I'd level the bars and get a very slightly longer stem, the bike shop (if you bought a new bike )should be able to swap it out for free or at the very least, for their cost on the part which should be about half price.

Hi alfeng, really appreciate your inputs.

For the handlebars, I have recently adjusted it slightly like you suggested, so now it looks like this:

[IMG]cyclingforums.com700Open ↗[/IMG]

Thanks for this advice as now I feel more comfortable on the hoods. As I switch my grip to below the hoods, it is a bit hard and klunky as I am not used to this style yet but I think I will get used to it.

As for the stem, I think I might get one that is 10mm longer than the current one. What will happen once I go longer? Will I bent down more? Is it going to be harder to control the bike's direction?

Yeah, I think the crank is a bit short. Today I adjusted my seat post upward by about 10mm. Now I can see more of the front hub but I can almost straighten my legs with the center of my foot on the pedal. Actually, is this the correct thing to do for testing the height?

Lastly, I guess I have to live without the second bottle cage... On the bright side, less weight!

BTW, for the 50cm frame the differences:

48cm - top tube is 515mm, head tube is 110mm

50cm - top tube is 525mm, head tube is 110mm

52cm - top tube is 535mm, head tube is 140mm

EDIT: I have posted a reply before this one but it doesn't seem to show up.

Still not sure why my first reply still wasn't posted.

Anyway, today I re-adjusted the saddle, so that it is more even.

Next, I adjusted the handlebar angle to be more horizontal with the shifters as vertical as I can get it to be.

Result is this:

[IMG]cyclingforums.com700Open ↗[/IMG]

I also raised the seatpost a bit more but when I am on the saddle, I can still tip toe. Is this okay?

Next, about the stem, I had discussed with the LBS to exchange the stem for a longer one. The current one is 80mm. Gonna change to a 110mm. Will that be odd on the bike?

Thanks 🙂

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by Ken81 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

BTW, for the 50cm frame the differences:

48cm - top tube is 515mm, head tube is 110mm

50cm - top tube is 525mm, head tube is 110mm

52cm - top tube is 535mm, head tube is 140mm

FYI. The data is interesting, but possibly NOT meaningful UNLESS you know-or-feel that you are REALLY UNCOMFORTABLE on the current frame AND the dealer is going to swap the bike frames for a minimal ('I' would say $50 would be beyond reasonable) or for FREE ...

• for an additional 1cm in top tube length, I would simply get a 110mm stem
  
• or, if the stem is already 110mm long, then get a 120mm stem
  
• BUT FIRST, you need to level the handlebar drops + re-orient the levers, if necessary otherwise whatever changes you might make will be almost meaningless in the long run
  

BTW. It looks as though the stem on your current frame is only about 100mm long ...

If so, then the combined top tube + stem is only in the 525mm range -- of course, possibly longer if the stem is longer.

• the combined top tube + stem length does have an effect on the rider's comfort
  
• but, for ANY given rider, a lower stem height offsets the shorter stem & top tube length
  
• or, conversely, a taller stem can be offset by having a longer stem & top tube length
  
• OR, to reiterate my earlier statement, to some extent the frame size is cosmetic
  

FWIW. I am 175cm tall. My preferred frame is 52cm with a 54.5cm top tube + a 120mm stem ...

• probably more by chance, that is essentially the same top tube + stem length as I had decades ago ...
  
• but, top tube + stem length are not the only factors in sizing
  

I have more than one bike. My other bikes -- regardless of the frame size and/or its top tube length and/or handlebar width-and-reach -- are set up very close in overall distance between the REAR of the saddle (a seemingly arbitrary point from which I make the measurement ... but, that is where my butt is located) to the rear of the horns on the brake levers (i.e., where my hands reach to) -- the difference is less than an inch on the diagonal (aka "hypotenuse"😉 so the longitudinal difference is even smaller ...

• the point is that regardless of a bike's frame size, it is fairly easy for me to set up a 'new' frame for ME to ride and have it feel the same underneath me if it is within a few inches (+/-) of the frame size I normally ride
  

THAT's possibly a long way of saying that the frame isn't necessarily too small for YOU, but YOU need to decide if you are actually uncomfortable AND if changing the stem's length to 110mm-or-120mm will be beneficial, or not ...

OR, move a spacer-or-two from beneath the stem to between the top cap & stem (really!) to see if the net sizing effect as a longer stem affects how the bike feels (i.e., less cramped ... if THAT is the problem)

So, if the frame size is a cosmetic issue then you will want to know the trendy people who are not racing typically choose a smaller frame size than most of the rest of us might choose to ride and so you will be right in step with them with your current frame size.

Finally the replies are posted... Took some time.

Anyway, I switched the bike for another one but I will fit the bike according to these advice given, they're good to know.

Thanks 🙂