Road Bike?

Backi00 said:

... any other suggestions? Thanks

If your Marin has a 'solid' fork (vs. a suspension fork), then the obvious (?) alternative is to buy a pair of road bars + 10-speed Campagnolo shifters ...

A pair of pre-2007 (non-QS) Campagnolo shifters would be the best ... figure on $100 +/- on eBay ...

If your Marin has a suspension fork, then I would change it to a 'solid' fork -- either a CX fork or a Tandem fork depending on your budget ... the Tandem fork will probably be a "pull" from a new bike & cost much less (but, weigh more).

Eventually, change the tire size to whatever is suitable for the road conditions you ride on.

Thanks for the info. It has a suspension fork. Would it be better to try and sell/trade it on CList for an older road bike such as a trek 1.2, or do the changes you have recommended. I am trying to save as much money as possible, i spent about 640 on the whole setup after taxes and have had some people interested in the bike without too much of a hit off the original.

Backi00 said:

Thanks for the info. It has a suspension fork. Would it be better to try and sell/trade it on CList for an older road bike such as a trek 1.2, or do the changes you have recommended. I am trying to save as much money as possible, i spent about 640 on the whole setup after taxes and have had some people interested in the bike without too much of a hit off the original.

Okay ...

SELL your Marin, first ...

Then, with cash-in-hand, you'll know how much you have to spend on your ROAD bike.

I certainly wouldn't hestitate to buying a used bike ... and then, adding new drivetrain components ... if needed ...

You may find a bike that is ready-to-ride the way you want it & have cash left over.

Because MY preference (which doesn't have to be yours) is for Campagnolo shifters, I would figure out how much the shifters/cassette/derailleurs + wheels might cost ... and then, I would know how much I could budget for the 'bike' for its frame/etc.

Campagnolo 10-speed shifters can be used with 8-and-9-speed Shimano drivetrains ... and, by my reckoning, 10-speed Shimano drivetrains. The 10-speed Campagnolo shifters have also been used with a 10-speed SRAM drivetrain; so, IMO, they are universal.

My personal inclination is toward steel framed bikes ... to over simplify the situation, I will say that they are all good regardless of price ... better frames are nicer (better workmanship, often lighter), but they don't generally ride any better 'if' the two frames being compared have the same geometry.

The downside of a steel frame is it will generally be heavier than an alloy frame (unless you get a Waterford which was made in the past 4 years, that is) ...

There are certainly some good, used, steel framed bikes on eBay ... and, usually they sell for less because most people want a lighter bike or "newer" bike.

There are good alloy framed bikes on eBay, too.

And, there are certainly good bikes of all ilk on Craig's List.

BTW. TREK's model number doesn't mean anything unless you know the year the model number is referring; so, the number should be considered to be "a moving target" ...

I appreciate the information. I am just getting into this and and pretty clueless when it comes to bikes. That being said, I am clueless when it comes to putting bikes together and just about anything outside of changing the tubes and simple adjustments.

The Marin does have a lock out suspension. Could i get road bars on a lock-out suspension fork?

How does this look?
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bik/1321369584.html

Backi00 said:

I appreciate the information. I am just getting into this and and pretty clueless when it comes to bikes. That being said, I am clueless when it comes to putting bikes together and just about anything outside of changing the tubes and simple adjustments.

The Marin does have a lock out suspension. Could i get road bars on a lock-out suspension fork?

How does this look?
GT Rage 54cm Road Bike

You can certainly put a road handlebar on your Marin ...

The GT RAGE would be an excellent USED bike if you are about 5'10" +/- 1" ... the short, 54cm top tube may make it marginal if you are 5'11" ... but, the guy selling it looks to be in the 6'0+" range based on where he has the saddle, so ...

N.B. At some point in time, you may want to replace the fork (which I presume is aluminum) with a carbon fiber fork because aluminum forks are not as comfortable as a steel or carbon fiber fork. That may also require a new headset + spacers & a new stem UNLESS you find an 'old', threaded CF fork whose steerer is the correct length (or, ~1cm longer is certainly okay). If the fork is steel, then the only reason to replace it would be to make the bike about a pound lighter.

You may IMMEDIATELY (okay, make that after your first couple of rides) want to change the cassette to something with larger cogs ... at least a 12-28 or a 12-30 ... but, try the gearing that is on the bike for a few rides, first. It really depends on how strong a rider you are AND where you plan to ride.

The GT RAGE is a pretty nice bike with some pretty nice components ... well, they were certainly nice when they were new.

The asking price is pretty good if the condition of the bike is as good as it appears to be in the miniscule pics.

You could theoretically sell those shifters for more than $100 ... depending on their condition, I suppose they may sell for as much as $150+ if you find the right two bidders on eBay. ASK the seller how many miles he has used the bike AND components in case that is something you may do in the future.

WHY WOULD YOU SELL THOSE SHIFTERS? Despite what some people say, Campagnolo shifters just shift better when you are already going UPHILL & the drivetrain is under a load.

Regardless of what bike you buy, when you have the time, go to your library and look at Lennard Zinn's ZINN AND THE ART OF ROAD BIKE MAINTENANCE or you can buy a copy (~$25 ... less at Amazon.com/etc.).

I have been meaning to get a book like that.
If it helps at all...
I am 5'10 with a long torso. I also am really into sprint training as in most of my rides are around 15 miles or so with a lot of intervals.
Thus the weight of the bike isnt really much of a concern for me right now. Still just catching the bug and seeing if i want to start a strict training schedule and compete in the future. I emailed the seller bout the mileage of the bike and components and hope to hear back from him soon.

The seller of the GT got back to me. He said the bike and components have about 3500 miles on them. The chain and Cassete were replaced more recently and have approx 1000 miles on them.
Any thoughts?

Backi00 said:

The seller of the GT got back to me. He said the bike and components have about 3500 miles on them. The chain and Cassete were replaced more recently and have approx 1000 miles on them.
Any thoughts?

FWIW. I recommend that you make arrangements to meet the guy AND go to your ATM on the way out -- it's a pretty nice bike with very good components & low mileage at a great price (considering the low mileage) ...

It's a great find on your part, IMO.

As I mentioned, before, if the fork is alloy, then you may want to look into replacing it with a carbon fiber fork to improve the ride ... but, if the fork is steel, then the only reason to buy a CF fork would be to lighten the bike by about a pound.

The seller is not getting back to me and a good friend suggested the 54cm may be too small for my frame.
Since you seem to know everything that has to do with cycling... Would i be alright just putting some drop bars on the bike and keeping the suspension locked out?
If that is a reasonable option.. how difficult is it to switch the bars and get the shifters/brakes set up on drop bars.
I have not had any more hits for selling the Marin and dont want to take a huge hit on it so im thinking about just trying to set it up better for road work.
thanks in advance and thanks for all your help so far

Backi00 said:

The seller is not getting back to me and a good friend suggested the 54cm may be too small for my frame.
Since you seem to know everything that has to do with cycling... Would i be alright just putting some drop bars on the bike and keeping the suspension locked out?
If that is a reasonable option.. how difficult is it to switch the bars and get the shifters/brakes set up on drop bars.
I have not had any more hits for selling the Marin and dont want to take a huge hit on it so im thinking about just trying to set it up better for road work.
thanks in advance and thanks for all your help so far

Frame size is actually subjective/arbitrary ...

I'm 5'9" and my preferred frame size is a 52cm (with a 54.5cm top tube) ...

Again, I'm guessing the seller is closer to 6'0" (based on the height of the saddle on the stated frame size). Ask him if you manage to get a hold of him.

You can always put a longer stem on the GT (if you end up buying it) if the reach seems too short.

[CENTER]___ [/CENTER]

You can put road bars on your bike without any effort IF you can unscrew the lid on a pickle jar & put it back on ...

You'll probably need a 5mm Allen Wrench (maybe/perhaps, a 4mm) to remove the faceplate on the stem ... remove the bars, install the new bars, tighten, test for feel, adjust & tighten ... install the new brakes and/or shifters, check fit ... install cables & adjust cable tension ... wrap bars.

The difficulty (?) will be the shifters ... unless you get a STEEL drop bar (they are around), you'll need new shifters ... your grip shifts will not sleeve onto an alloy handlebar ... that brings in potentially large expenses (budget at least $100 for a pair of used 10-speed, NON-QS Campagnolo shifters) ...

Your other big decision will be the WIDTH of the bars (42cm would be a good choice ... perhaps, 44cm might be better) & the type/(brand) of SHIFTERS you end up with. The center section will either be OS (31.8) or not. A handlebar with a 26.0 center section will fit in most non-OS stems even if the stem is designed for a 25.4 MTB handlebar. Different handlebars have different shape drops ... the choice is based on personal preference ...

For ergonomic bars, I like the shape of Ritchey & TTT bars because the drops are flatter BUT I have other brands with different shapes (live and learn) ... otherwise, I like the OLDER non-ergonomic bars, too.

Figure that you're looking at about $150+ if you were to simply put drop bars on your bike (presuming that YOU do the work) ...

N.B. There is a minor problem with the front V-brake that you will need to address -- you either want to replace it with a mini-V-brake, a cantilever brake, or use a "travel agent" if you use 'standard' ROAD brake levers ...

Some people say you can use ROAD levers with standard V-brakes ... I have set up a REAR V-brake with road levers, but not the front.

You can theoretically recoup some of the cost of the changeover if you can sell the shifters that are currently on the Marin ... but, you are probably better off keeping the "original" parts in case you can find a buyer for the bike.

FWIW. The attached pic is a MTB frame with drop bars & 700c wheels (!?!) that I put together a few years ago ... the fork is a "road" fork.

Interesting. So the Shimano shifters i have on the Marin (Alivio i think) Will not transition to drop bars even if they are not grip shifters? I can pick up a set of 44cm dropbars off a guy for next to nothing, I just did not expect to have to change the shifters or brakes.

Backi00 said:

Interesting. So the Shimano shifters i have on the Marin (Alivio i think) Will not transition to drop bars even if they are not grip shifters? I can pick up a set of 44cm dropbars off a guy for next to nothing, I just did not expect to have to change the shifters or brakes.

You'll probably need new shifters if you want to switch to ROAD bars ...

The diameter of a MTB handlebar is a legacy from the early days of MTBing when the components were made to be backward-compatible with the "stuff" which was found on 26" balloon tire bikes ...

So, the diameter of the "Flat" handlebars is smaller.

If you had some CHEAPO low end stuff which had stamped steel clamps, you could just expand the clamp & use a longer bolt.

You could possibly (but, NOT recommended!) take a half-round file and enlarge the clamp size ... however, moving the clamp around the bend may be problematic.

If you are really handy, you could modify the clamp beyond just filing it to a larger inner diameter.

Another bike has come up in a proposed trade through craigslist. I am currently trying to get some more details, (year, size, mileage). Just wanted to get an opinion.
[FONT=Arial]TREK 2300 PRO[/FONT]

Backi00 said:

Another bike has come up in a proposed trade through craigslist. I am currently trying to get some more details, (year, size, mileage). Just wanted to get an opinion.
[FONT=Arial]TREK 2300 PRO[/FONT]

Gosh, I wouldn't pay that much for that bike ...

It might be a nice bike & it may be worth it for a collector, but I kind of doubt it (the latter).

My recommendation is that you "just-keep-swimming."

If nothing else, I'll say that the frame is too small for you ... by the picture of the handlebars (!?!), I'll say that the frame is ~51cm c-c ... with a 53cm top tube. If that is correct, you would need a 140mm stem at the very least.

Just wanted to update and thank alfeng a ton for all the help. I bought the GT Rage. The guy dropped the price to 300 and i jumped on it. He rode it for two years or so then had it stored for a long time. It is in amazing condition. I just need to tune up the brakes and get used to the new ride. Im really happy with it.

Backi00 said:

Just wanted to update and thank alfeng a ton for all the help. I bought the GT Rage. The guy dropped the price to 300 and i jumped on it. He rode it for two years or so then had it stored for a long time. It is in amazing condition. I just need to tune up the brakes and get used to the new ride. Im really happy with it.

GREAT ...

I'm glad you were able to buy the GT RAGE (and, at a reduced price!) & that you're happy with it.

Wondering if anyone had any impressions/experiences with Schwinn Paramount 684s? Found a cheap one with full 105 which seems to be in good condition.

Schwinn 684 Road Bike

Dont really see a lot of bad things said about the bike (would be for friend just getting into cycling).

Thanks