Hi,
I just installed a brand new PC-58 chain and on the second ride I damaged a
join.
I removed the damaged links and replaced them with a power-link but now the
chain is to short and risks damage if I accidentaly go into big-big gear.
The LBS said you shouldn't rivet in new links but ten+ years ago before
power links i would be re-rivetting my chain every time I cleaned it and it
all worked well.
Has anyone had good/bad experience with re-riveting modern SRAM chains?
Cheers,
Duncan.
Mountain Bikes · Public discussion
Riveting SRAM chain
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- Mountain Bikes
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- 30 October 2004
- Last activity
- 5 November 2004
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- Duncan
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RE/
Quoted message said:
The LBS said you shouldn't rivet in new links but ten+ years ago before
power links i would be re-rivetting my chain every time I cleaned it and it
all worked well.
Has anyone had good/bad experience with re-riveting modern SRAM chains?Yes. Two bad experiences. One was good for 2 weeks recovery from a knee
injury. I wouldn't even *think* about re-riviting a chain anymore. I do,
however, carry several quick links for repair in the field.
--
PeteCresswell -
"(Pete Cresswell)" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
RE/
Quoted message said:
The LBS said you shouldn't rivet in new links but ten+ years ago before
power links i would be re-rivetting my chain every time I cleaned it and
itQuoted message said:
Quoted message said:
all worked well.
Has anyone had good/bad experience with re-riveting modern SRAM chains?Yes. Two bad experiences. One was good for 2 weeks recovery from a knee
injury. I wouldn't even *think* about re-riviting a chain anymore. I
do,Quoted message said:
however, carry several quick links for repair in the field.
I've had good results re-riveting SRAM chains but I take the extra step of
flaring out the end of the rivet that was pushed through the sideplate. I
do this by holding the flat face of a large hammer against the opposite end
of the pin, and using the peening end of a ball peen hammer against the
other to flare it out. This works quite well on both SRAM and Shimano
chains. I've never had a chain come apart at the rivet that was messed
with. (It's quite easy to tell which one that was once the peening has been
done.)A significant difference with today's chains and older ones is the way they
flare over the end of the pins to make it more difficult for them to pull
through the sideplates under extreme chain sideloads. When you break the
chain, you ruin this flare and often strip smaill amounts of metal off the
pin and sideplate. I use the peening operation to restore some of this
reinforcement. -
RE/
Quoted message said:
I have SRAM chains made entirely out of the end peices of new chains
that I cut to length. They work fine.PC-48's?
--
PeteCresswell -
"Duncan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
Hi,
I just installed a brand new PC-58 chain and on the second ride I damaged
aQuoted message said:
join.
I removed the damaged links and replaced them with a power-link but now
theQuoted message said:
chain is to short and risks damage if I accidentaly go into big-big gear.
The LBS said you shouldn't rivet in new links but ten+ years ago before
power links i would be re-rivetting my chain every time I cleaned it and
itQuoted message said:
all worked well.
Has anyone had good/bad experience with re-riveting modern SRAM chains?Thanks for the replies, I decided to give the rivetting a go. Should be
interesting, I have a 12 hour enduro this weekend and no chance to do a
decent test ride beforehand.
I was very careful to have the pin centered and tried to splay the end out a
bit with a hammer and screwdriver. It looks very solid.
Worst case I crash, but even if I don't I could slip in a power link in a
couple of minutes. -
RE/
Quoted message said:
Worst case I crash, but even if I don't I could slip in a power link in a
couple of minutes.If you can still walk/stand after bashing your knee on something with all your
body weight behind it....if/when it fails it will probably be when you're
lunging.
--
PeteCresswell -
"(Pete Cresswell)" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
RE/
Quoted message said:
The LBS said you shouldn't rivet in new links but ten+ years ago before
power links i would be re-rivetting my chain every time I cleaned it and it
all worked well.
Has anyone had good/bad experience with re-riveting modern SRAM chains?Yes. Two bad experiences. One was good for 2 weeks recovery from a knee
injury. I wouldn't even *think* about re-riviting a chain anymore. I do,
however, carry several quick links for repair in the field.Seconded. I've wound up damaging the outer plate every time I've tried.
/s
-
Of 8 bikes, 6 have SRAM chains. 5 of those are rivetted (using a Park
"pliers" type tool)The only chain failure I've had while riding was with a very abused Sachs
M40 (ancestor of the PC48) that gave up the ghost on my Tandem while 9 miles
from home.The instructions for the chain say the pins are now hardened to a degree
that the master link is require to rejoin the chain. I resisted this notion
because the first generation of master links were black instead of silver.
Yep, stupid as it sounds, I didn't want a black link on an otherwise bright
metal chain. I also had a strong distrust of the links. That's all changed
now. -
"Chris Phillipo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
Subject: Re: Riveting SRAM chain
From: "Nelson @ International Bicycle" <[email hidden]>
Newsgroups: alt.mountain-bikeOf 8 bikes, 6 have SRAM chains. 5 of those are rivetted (using a Park
"pliers" type tool)The only chain failure I've had while riding was with a very abused
SachsQuoted message said:
Quoted message said:
M40 (ancestor of the PC48) that gave up the ghost on my Tandem while 9
milesQuoted message said:
Quoted message said:
from home.
The instructions for the chain say the pins are now hardened to a degree
that the master link is require to rejoin the chain. I resisted this
notionQuoted message said:
Quoted message said:
because the first generation of master links were black instead of
silver.Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Yep, stupid as it sounds, I didn't want a black link on an otherwise
brightQuoted message said:
Quoted message said:
metal chain. I also had a strong distrust of the links. That's all
changedQuoted message said:
Quoted message said:
now.
Now they are gold baby! Bling! Bling!
That's how you tell apart the 8 and 9 speed links - silver for 8, gold for
9. The 9 speed PC-89 chain on my road bike is riveted and my Cadex has an
Ultegra chain now. -
I haven't had a problem since install- ing my own
chains. And that goes back to 96. When a factory chain one night lost
a pin and it was a cold long walk back. I just installed one on Sunday
morning.I MTB 2004
-
Nelson @ International Bicycle said:
I also had a strong distrust of the links. That's all
changed
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
now.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Now they are gold baby! Bling! Bling!
That's how you tell apart the 8 and 9 speed links - silver for 8, gold for
9. The 9 speed PC-89 chain on my road bike is riveted and my Cadex has an
Ultegra chain now.I broke my SRAM chain and replaced it with one of those SRAM gold snap
in things. Worked OK until it got covered in mud, and then it would
suck on the lowest chain ring. I used it for a while hoping it would
just wear in, but it didn't. Tried it round every possible way but it
wouldn't work.Gave up on it and replaced it with a 'Missing Link' brand snap in bit,
which has been much better behaved.
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