Originally posted by Phileas I just measured the concavity on my rear rim with a dial gauge and it's about 0.6mm. From what I read in an earlier post, it's time to replace it.
The thing that surprises me is that it's only done about 5 or 6 thousand miles on a commute where there's not much braking required.
It's a Mavic Open Pro and I've been using Shimano blocks (I've just started using Kool Stops).
Any comments?
Phileas
Is all the factory machining gone? Do you clean your rims and brake shoes regulary, particularly after wet rides? I think I would try pushing the rims further. Many of the newer rims come with a wear indicator. The one I measured on a handy Bontrager rim shows 1 mm.
"daveornee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
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Is all the factory machining gone?
Long gone!
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Do you clean your rims and brake shoes regulary, particularly after wet rides?
No. I mainly commute. In the winter, most rides are wet to some extent.
Quoted message said:
I think I would try pushing the rims further. Many of the newer rims come
with a wear
Quoted message said:
indicator. The one I measured on a handy Bontrager rim shows 1 mm.
There's no wear indicator. Unfortunately, I've lost some confidence with both my rims (the front has an alarming groove in it caused by allowing the brake pad to wear down to the metal body!). I've replaced both the wheels with spares until I buy new rims and build a couple of replacement wheels.
I'm wondering what rims to buy. I've read a lot of bad stuff about Mavic rims but they seem to be by far the most available.
"daveornee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
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Is all the factory machining gone?
Long gone!
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Do you clean your rims and brake shoes regulary, particularly after wet rides?
No. I mainly commute. In the winter, most rides are wet to some extent.
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I think I would try pushing the rims further. Many of the newer rims come with a wear indicator. The one I measured on a handy Bontrager rim shows 1 mm.
There's no wear indicator.
Wear indicators are nice, but you can determine wear the old fashioned way. Measure your rim with a caliper, sidewall to sidewall, and compare it to the spec for a new one. A little concavity is not necessarily a problem -- sidewall thickness is.
"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
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Wear indicators are nice, but you can determine wear the old fashioned
way.
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Measure your rim with a caliper, sidewall to sidewall, and compare it to
the
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spec for a new one. A little concavity is not necessarily a problem --
sidewall
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thickness is.
I just measured the rim width. At the outside diameter, it's 20.5mm whereas at the inside diameter it's 19.0 mm. Harris Cyclery quote the rim width as 19.6mm.
Assuming the rims start parallel sided, this seems to suggest that the rims are worn down by 0.3mm per side at the inside diameter and flared out at the outside diameter. Unfortunately, this still doesn't allow me to determine the minimum thickness of the sidewalls.
On Sun, 15 Feb 2004 09:55:39 -0800, "Mike S." <mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet>
may have said:
"jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
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try ceramics. they're designed specifically for high wear life.
Normally, I don't recommend ceramic rims even though I own a pair. BUT, in this instance: wet commuting, it makes sense.
Just make sure you get some ceramic brake pads.
ITYM "pads made for use with ceramic rims".
-- My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
Normally, I don't recommend ceramic rims even though I own a pair. BUT, in this instance: wet commuting, it makes sense.
Just curious. Why wouldn't you recommend ceramic rims? They claim is gives better braking and wear. Or is it because only mavic ( afaik) makes them?
I've seen them from Bontrager, and others too. Ceramic rims are a bad idea. First, the ceramic coating tends to flake off. Second, they don't brake as well, wet or dry, even if special ceramic- compatible pads are used. This is because the ceramic is an insulator, which prevents heat from being transferred into the metal, where it is dissipated into the air. Instead, the pads just get hotter and hotter, until they go soft or melt, causing brake fade. The pads wear quickly too.
For situations where rim wear is a problem, such as muddy mountain biking, disc brakes are a better solution.
"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
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Mike S.' mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet may have said:
"jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
try ceramics. they're designed specifically for high wear life.
Normally, I don't recommend ceramic rims even though I own a pair. BUT,
in
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
this instance: wet commuting, it makes sense.
Just make sure you get some ceramic brake pads.
ITYM "pads made for use with ceramic rims".
Yup. Pads made out of ceramic wouldn't work so well... Can you imagine the wear? Ugh!
Mike
-
Quoted message said:
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.