Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Rim wear

Started by Phileas · · Last activity · 41 posts · 2,445 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
15 February 2004
Last activity
19 February 2004
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Phileas
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  1. I just measured the concavity on my rear rim with a dial gauge and it's about 0.6mm. From what I
    read in an earlier post, it's time to replace it.

    The thing that surprises me is that it's only done about 5 or 6 thousand miles on a commute where
    there's not much braking required.

    It's a Mavic Open Pro and I've been using Shimano blocks (I've just started using Kool Stops).

    Any comments?

    Phileas

  2. Phileas said:

    I just measured the concavity on my rear rim with a dial gauge and it's about 0.6mm. From what I
    read in an earlier post, it's time to replace it.

    The thing that surprises me is that it's only done about 5 or 6 thousand miles on a commute where
    there's not much braking required.

    It's a Mavic Open Pro and I've been using Shimano blocks (I've just started using Kool Stops).

    Any comments?

    Maybe they're slightly concave from new?

  3. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Phileas
    I just measured the concavity on my rear rim with a dial gauge and it's about 0.6mm. From what I
    read in an earlier post, it's time to replace it.

    The thing that surprises me is that it's only done about 5 or 6 thousand miles on a commute where
    there's not much braking required.

    It's a Mavic Open Pro and I've been using Shimano blocks (I've just started using Kool Stops).

    Any comments?

    Phileas

    Is all the factory machining gone?
    Do you clean your rims and brake shoes regulary, particularly after wet rides?
    I think I would try pushing the rims further.
    Many of the newer rims come with a wear indicator. The one I measured on a handy Bontrager rim shows 1 mm.

  4. On Sun, 15 Feb 2004 14:30:53 +0000, Zog The Undeniable <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Phileas said:

    I just measured the concavity on my rear rim with a dial gauge and it's about 0.6mm. From what I
    read in an earlier post, it's time to replace it.

    The thing that surprises me is that it's only done about 5 or 6 thousand miles on a commute where
    there's not much braking required.

    It's a Mavic Open Pro and I've been using Shimano blocks (I've just started using Kool Stops).

    Any comments?

    Maybe they're slightly concave from new?

    Does the measurement change without tire pressure?

  5. "Zog The Undeniable" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Any comments?

    Maybe they're slightly concave from new?

    No, they're machined flat

    Phileas

  6. "dianne_1234" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Any comments?

    Maybe they're slightly concave from new?

    Does the measurement change without tire pressure?

    Not measurably

    Phileas

  7. "daveornee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Is all the factory machining gone?

    Long gone!

    Quoted message said:

    Do you clean your rims and brake shoes regulary, particularly after wet rides?

    No. I mainly commute. In the winter, most rides are wet to some extent.

    Quoted message said:

    I think I would try pushing the rims further. Many of the newer rims come


    with a wear

    Quoted message said:

    indicator. The one I measured on a handy Bontrager rim shows 1 mm.

    There's no wear indicator. Unfortunately, I've lost some confidence with both my rims (the front has
    an alarming groove in it caused by allowing the brake pad to wear down to the metal body!). I've
    replaced both the wheels with spares until I buy new rims and build a couple of replacement wheels.

    I'm wondering what rims to buy. I've read a lot of bad stuff about Mavic rims but they seem to be by
    far the most available.

    Phileas

  8. Phileas said:

    I just measured the concavity on my rear rim with a dial gauge and it's about 0.6mm. From what I
    read in an earlier post, it's time to replace it.

    The thing that surprises me is that it's only done about 5 or 6 thousand miles on a commute where
    there's not much braking required.

    It's a Mavic Open Pro and I've been using Shimano blocks (I've just


    started

    Quoted message said:

    using Kool Stops).

    Was there a lot of embedded grit and aluminum in the Shimano pads? That would do it.

    Art Harris

  9. "Arthur Harris" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Was there a lot of embedded grit and aluminum in the Shimano pads? That would do it.

    Probably - that's why I switched to Koolstops. In the short time I've been using them, they don't
    seem as gritty as the Shimano pads.

    Phileas

  10. I wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm wondering what rims to buy.

    I'll probably put another Open Pro on the rear unless I find another rim which allows me to re-use
    the spokes.

    Phileas

  11. Phileas said:

    "daveornee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Is all the factory machining gone?

    Long gone!

    Quoted message said:

    Do you clean your rims and brake shoes regulary, particularly after wet rides?

    No. I mainly commute. In the winter, most rides are wet to some extent.

    Quoted message said:

    I think I would try pushing the rims further. Many of the newer rims come with a wear indicator.
    The one I measured on a handy Bontrager rim shows 1 mm.

    There's no wear indicator.

    Wear indicators are nice, but you can determine wear the old fashioned way. Measure your rim with a
    caliper, sidewall to sidewall, and compare it to the spec for a new one. A little concavity is not
    necessarily a problem -- sidewall thickness is.

    Matt O.

  12. try ceramics. they're designed specifically for high wear life.

    Phileas said:

    I just measured the concavity on my rear rim with a dial gauge and it's about 0.6mm. From what I
    read in an earlier post, it's time to replace it.

    The thing that surprises me is that it's only done about 5 or 6 thousand miles on a commute where
    there's not much braking required.

    It's a Mavic Open Pro and I've been using Shimano blocks (I've just started using Kool Stops).

    Any comments?

    Phileas

  13. "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    try ceramics. they're designed specifically for high wear life.

    Normally, I don't recommend ceramic rims even though I own a pair. BUT, in this instance: wet
    commuting, it makes sense.

    Just make sure you get some ceramic brake pads.

    Mike

  14. "Phileas" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "daveornee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Is all the factory machining gone?

    Long gone!

    Quoted message said:

    Do you clean your rims and brake shoes regulary, particularly after wet rides?

    No. I mainly commute. In the winter, most rides are wet to some extent.


    There's your answer. Riding in the wet/nasties means accelerated brake track wear.

    You must not mtn bike too much...

    Mike

  15. "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Wear indicators are nice, but you can determine wear the old fashioned


    way.

    Quoted message said:

    Measure your rim with a caliper, sidewall to sidewall, and compare it to


    the

    Quoted message said:

    spec for a new one. A little concavity is not necessarily a problem --


    sidewall

    Quoted message said:

    thickness is.

    I just measured the rim width. At the outside diameter, it's 20.5mm whereas at the inside diameter
    it's 19.0 mm. Harris Cyclery quote the rim width as
    19.6mm.

    Assuming the rims start parallel sided, this seems to suggest that the rims are worn down by 0.3mm
    per side at the inside diameter and flared out at the outside diameter. Unfortunately, this still
    doesn't allow me to determine the minimum thickness of the sidewalls.

    Phileas

  16. On Sun, 15 Feb 2004 09:55:39 -0800, "Mike S." <mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet>

    may have said:


    "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    try ceramics. they're designed specifically for high wear life.

    Normally, I don't recommend ceramic rims even though I own a pair. BUT, in this instance: wet
    commuting, it makes sense.

    Just make sure you get some ceramic brake pads.

    ITYM "pads made for use with ceramic rims".

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
    it's also possible that I'm busy.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  17. Mike S. said:

    Normally, I don't recommend ceramic rims even though I own a pair. BUT, in this instance: wet
    commuting, it makes sense.

    Just curious. Why wouldn't you recommend ceramic rims? They claim is gives better braking and wear.
    Or is it because only mavic ( afaik) makes them?

  18. gvw said:
    Mike S. said:

    Normally, I don't recommend ceramic rims even though I own a pair. BUT, in this instance: wet
    commuting, it makes sense.

    Just curious. Why wouldn't you recommend ceramic rims? They claim is gives better braking and
    wear. Or is it because only mavic ( afaik) makes them?

    I've seen them from Bontrager, and others too. Ceramic rims are a bad idea. First, the ceramic
    coating tends to flake off. Second, they don't brake as well, wet or dry, even if special ceramic-
    compatible pads are used. This is because the ceramic is an insulator, which prevents heat from
    being transferred into the metal, where it is dissipated into the air. Instead, the pads just get
    hotter and hotter, until they go soft or melt, causing brake fade. The pads wear quickly too.

    For situations where rim wear is a problem, such as muddy mountain biking, disc brakes are a
    better solution.

    Matt O.

  19. "Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Mike S.' mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet may have said:


    "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    try ceramics. they're designed specifically for high wear life.

    Normally, I don't recommend ceramic rims even though I own a pair. BUT,


    in

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    this instance: wet commuting, it makes sense.

    Just make sure you get some ceramic brake pads.

    ITYM "pads made for use with ceramic rims".

    Yup. Pads made out of ceramic wouldn't work so well... Can you imagine the wear? Ugh!

    Mike

    -

    Quoted message said:

    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
    don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy. Words processed in a facility that
    contains nuts.

  20. Mike S. said:

    "Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    ITYM "pads made for use with ceramic rims".

    Yup. Pads made out of ceramic wouldn't work so well... Can you imagine the wear? Ugh!

    Okay, stop it, you guys. You're giving me the nails-on-chalkboard shivers.

    --
    Benjamin Lewis

    A small, but vocal, contingent even argues that tin is superior, but they are held by most to be the
    lunatic fringe of Foil Deflector Beanie science.

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