Ozark Bicycle wrote: > On Oct 9, 8:58 pm, [email hidden] wrote: >> someone writes: >>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage (1970s) >>>> bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you would >>>> recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero nor deep >>>> V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds. >>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu. >> http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPRMRDSUN/RM8491 >> >> No sockets! No good > > Horseshit
The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
what is your spoke tension?
Adequate.
er, so that allows you to correlate rim cracking with anodizing then? you /did/ mean that when you were advocating the use of unanodized rims after red herring consumption, right?
>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage >> (1970s) bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you >> would recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero >> nor deep V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds.
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> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu.
The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
My tubular wheels (that I don't use anymore) haven't broken a spoke and never got a crack in more than 30 years. What do you mean by 7 years old? Where have you ridden these wheels and how far?
<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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Tom Sherman said:
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> someone writes:
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>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage >>> (1970s) bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you >>> would recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero >>> nor deep V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds.
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>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu.
The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
My tubular wheels (that I don't use anymore) haven't broken a spoke and never got a crack in more than 30 years. What do you mean by 7 years old? Where have you ridden these wheels and how far?
Jobst Brandt
Thanks to all for the suggestions. Am leaning strongly toward Velocity Razor rims with eyelets. Any thoughts? Thanks again, Kerry
> someone writes: >>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage >>> (1970s) bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you >>> would recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero >>> nor deep V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds. >> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu. > http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPRMRDSUN/RM8491 > No sockets! No good Horseshit
The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
My tubular wheels (that I don't use anymore) haven't broken a spoke and never got a crack in more than 30 years.
My boneshaker's wheels are still straight after a hunnerd years! Socketless, I might add.
Ten years of service from a set of wheels is plenty for most of us. Then they'll hopefully explode, so you can cackle from your dark tower.
>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage >>> (1970s) bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you >>> would recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not >>> aero nor deep V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds.
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>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu.
The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
My tubular wheels (that I don't use anymore) haven't broken a spoke and never got a crack in more than 30 years. What do you mean by 7 years old? Where have you ridden these wheels and how far?
Well, another anecdotal point is my set of wheels which were built up with the predecessor to the CR-18, the Sun CR-16. Polished aluminum, no sockets or ferrules, 11 years and a paltry 25,000-30,000 miles before the rear rim cracked at two spoke holes. In this case, this was a 26" rim with very little dish due to being a 7 sp/135 mm setup and had 36 spokes none of which have ever broken. Examining the rim I noted that there was a reinforcing rib around the rim running from spoke hole to spoke hole on the inside, the width of the spoke holes and about 2-3 mm tall; perhaps that contributed to the rim not cracking much sooner.
The point being that this old socketless and eyeless polished rim lasted about 12.5 times as long as the longest-lasting Mavic Open Pro I have used. There's more to it than sockets. I think I'd rather have a non-socketed polished rim than an anodized socketed rim, based on the service life I have observed with my bikes. We'll see if the CR-18 that replaced the CR-16 holds up as well. I'll get back to you in 2018 if not before.
>>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage >>>> (1970s) bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you >>>> would recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero >>>> nor deep V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds.
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>>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu.
The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
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My tubular wheels (that I don't use anymore) haven't broken a spoke and never got a crack in more than 30 years. What do you mean by 7 years old? Where have you ridden these wheels and how far?
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Jobst Brandt
Thanks to all for the suggestions. Am leaning strongly toward Velocity Razor rims with eyelets. Any thoughts? Thanks again, Kerry
>> someone writes: >>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage >>>> (1970s) bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you >>>> would recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero >>>> nor deep V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds. >>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu. >> http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPRMRDSUN/RM8491 >> No sockets! No good > Horseshit The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
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My tubular wheels (that I don't use anymore) haven't broken a spoke and never got a crack in more than 30 years.
My boneshaker's wheels are still straight after a hunnerd years! Socketless, I might add.
Ten years of service from a set of wheels is plenty for most of us. Then they'll hopefully explode, so you can cackle from your dark tower.
"No sockets! No sockets!" , shrieked the old crow. ;-)
Sun CR-18 double wall rear is so good that itsa build and forgetaboutit component using brake prep reducing surface wear wit a dash of FL teflowax on the inserts.
Sun CR-18 double wall rear is so good that itsa build and forgetaboutit component using brake prep reducing surface wear wit a dash of FL teflowax on the inserts.
No wonder my rims only go 12 or 15 years. Gotta get that Florida wax! -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Tom Sherman wrote: > Ozark Bicycle wrote: >> On Oct 9, 8:58 pm, [email hidden] wrote: >>> someone writes: >>>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage (1970s) >>>>> bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you would >>>>> recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero nor deep >>>>> V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds. >>>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu. >>> http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPRMRDSUN/RM8491 >>> >>> No sockets! No good >> >> Horseshit > > The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm > size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the > spoke holes. > what is your spoke tension?
Adequate.
er, so that allows you to correlate rim cracking with anodizing then? you /did/ mean that when you were advocating the use of unanodized rims after red herring consumption, right?
What does the presence or lack thereof of sockets have to do with anodizing?
-- Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia Beer - It's not just for breakfast anymore!
On Oct 9, 8:58 pm, [email hidden] wrote: > someone writes: >>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage (1970s) >>> bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you would >>> recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero nor deep >>> V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds. >> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu. > http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPRMRDSUN/RM8491 > No sockets! No good Horseshit
The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
Thanks for agreeing that Brandt's comments ("No sockets! No good"😉 are horseshit.
Does this put your lifetime membership in the "I Brown Nose for Brandt" club in jeopardy? ;-)
I have disagreed with Jobst about recumbent bicycles and pavements (DAGS). In the latter field, I have some professional expertise, which I doubt Jobst has.
-- Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia Beer - It's not just for breakfast anymore!
>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage >>> (1970s) bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you >>> would recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero >>> nor deep V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds.
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>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu.
The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
My tubular wheels (that I don't use anymore) haven't broken a spoke and never got a crack in more than 30 years. What do you mean by 7 years old? Where have you ridden these wheels and how far?
Hard to say, since both bicycles were purchased used. However, I do know both bicycles were built in 2001 using Sun CR-18 wheels, and according to the previous owners the wheels are original. One bicycle was reportedly even ridden in the Alps.
-- Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia Beer - It's not just for breakfast anymore!
Sun CR-18 double wall rear is so good that itsa build and forgetaboutit component using brake prep reducing surface wear wit a dash of FL teflowax on the inserts.
No wonder my rims only go 12 or 15 years. Gotta get that Florida wax! -- Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
WELL, after boogling over "our discovery" for lubing hub spoke holes with FINISH LINE teflon with wax http://www.universalcycles.com/company.php?Company=Finish%20Line we moved toward lubing mating surfaces of spoke nipple and rim insert then sealing the gaps formed by nipple and rim as the nipple exits inward with the spoke toward the hub. finesse equals zero dysfunction.
>>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage >>>> (1970s) bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you >>>> would recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not >>>> aero nor deep V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds.
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>>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu.
The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
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My tubular wheels (that I don't use anymore) haven't broken a spoke and never got a crack in more than 30 years. What do you mean by 7 years old? Where have you ridden these wheels and how far?
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Hard to say, since both bicycles were purchased used. However, I do know both bicycles were built in 2001 using Sun CR-18 wheels, and according to the previous owners the wheels are original. One bicycle was reportedly even ridden in the Alps.
I guess I should have been more explicit. My tubular tire wheels haven't been used in more than 30 years, since the time I switched to clinchers... and haven't broken a spoke or developed a crack in that time. What I wanted to know is how many miles and on what sort of terrain rather than how long ago you got them?
On Oct 9, 7:29 pm, still me <[email hidden]> wrote:
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On Tue, 9 Oct 2007 16:45:08 -0700, "Kerry Montgomery"
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<[email hidden]> wrote: >Hi all, >I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage (1970s) bike to >clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you would recommend? Need to be >silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero nor deep V), and good quality. I'm about >180 pounds. >Thanks, >Kerry
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You can still get 1970/80 700c rims NOS on Ebay if you watch for a while. Then ur still vintage.
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Be careful with that unless you're sticking with freewheels, though. Many older rims can't take the higher drive-side vs. non-drive-side tension imbalance of 8/9/10 speed freehubs. I have a Super Champion Record Du Monde laced to a Veloce freehub as part of a set of semi- retro, tied & soldered sewups on my PX-10. I pretty much have to re- true that rear after every ride, so I don't ride those wheels very often.
"These classic design rims build well in 120mm and 125mm formats. They are simply neither heavy enough nor stiff enough to build a modern 130mm or 135mm wheel with its concomitantly high and uneven tension. If that isn't clear to you, you and I should correspond."
I have always liked the unique and honest look of this whole site, with its BIG pictures, and how it works --- hope it doesn't change. But, I'm not sure if that caution applies to those 560g 36 hole Rigidas, to those cowering lightweights pictured below it, or to both.
It's the same cross section as a Mod 58. I built on both those rims, and they were super tough. I am sure either could handle a modern 8/9/10 wheel. It was the Rigida 1320s that were disposable, IMO. -- Jay Beattie.
>> someone writes: >>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage >>>> (1970s) bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you >>>> would recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not >>>> aero nor deep V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds. >>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu. >> http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPRMRDSUN/RM8491 >> No sockets! No good > Horseshit The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the spoke holes.
My tubular wheels (that I don't use anymore) haven't broken a spoke and never got a crack in more than 30 years. What do you mean by 7 years old? Where have you ridden these wheels and how far?
Well, another anecdotal point is my set of wheels which were built up with the predecessor to the CR-18, the Sun CR-16. Polished aluminum, no sockets or ferrules, 11 years and a paltry 25,000-30,000 miles before the rear rim cracked at two spoke holes. In this case, this was a 26" rim with very little dish due to being a 7 sp/135 mm setup and had 36 spokes none of which have ever broken. Examining the rim I noted that there was a reinforcing rib around the rim running from spoke hole to spoke hole on the inside, the width of the spoke holes and about 2-3 mm tall; perhaps that contributed to the rim not cracking much sooner.
The point being that this old socketless and eyeless polished rim lasted about 12.5 times as long as the longest-lasting Mavic Open Pro I have used.
since others seem to manage just fine on those rims, myself included, all that tells us is that you over-tensioned. that's hardly mavic's fault.
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There's more to it than sockets. I think I'd rather have a non-socketed polished rim than an anodized socketed rim, based on the service life I have observed with my bikes. We'll see if the CR-18 that replaced the CR-16 holds up as well. I'll get back to you in 2018 if not before.
"jim beam" wrote: > Tom Sherman wrote: >> Ozark Bicycle wrote: >>> On Oct 9, 8:58 pm, [email hidden] wrote: >>>> someone writes: >>>>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage (1970s) >>>>>> bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you would >>>>>> recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero nor >>>>>> deep >>>>>> V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds. >>>>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu. >>>> http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPRMRDSUN/RM8491 >>>> >>>> No sockets! No good >>> >>> Horseshit >> >> The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm >> size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the >> spoke holes. >> > what is your spoke tension?
Adequate.
er, so that allows you to correlate rim cracking with anodizing then? you /did/ mean that when you were advocating the use of unanodized rims after red herring consumption, right?
What does the presence or lack thereof of sockets have to do with anodizing?
when you refer to "polished alu" as if that is something other than an aesthetic benefit, it's you drinking the jobstian kool-aid about rim cracking being caused by anodizing. hence my question about spoke tension.
Tom Sherman wrote: > "jim beam" wrote: >> Tom Sherman wrote: >>> Ozark Bicycle wrote: >>>> On Oct 9, 8:58 pm, [email hidden] wrote: >>>>> someone writes: >>>>>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage (1970s) >>>>>>> bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you would >>>>>>> recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero nor >>>>>>> deep >>>>>>> V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds. >>>>>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu. >>>>> http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPRMRDSUN/RM8491
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>>>>> No sockets! No good
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>>>> Horseshit
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>>> The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm >>> size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the >>> spoke holes.
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>> what is your spoke tension?
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> Adequate.
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er, so that allows you to correlate rim cracking with anodizing then? you /did/ mean that when you were advocating the use of unanodized rims after red herring consumption, right?
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What does the presence or lack thereof of sockets have to do with anodizing?
when you refer to "polished alu" as if that is something other than an aesthetic benefit, it's you drinking the jobstian kool-aid about rim cracking being caused by anodizing. hence my question about spoke tension.
May I add some clarity here?
The OP asked for rims that were "silver" and that "look[ed] vintage". Another poster, Landotter, posted a link to Sun CR-18 rims "in polished alu". IMO, that was for the visuals, not for any anodized/ unanodized issues.
"jim beam" wrote: > Tom Sherman wrote: >> "jim beam" wrote: >>> Tom Sherman wrote: >>>> Ozark Bicycle wrote: >>>>> On Oct 9, 8:58 pm, [email hidden] wrote: >>>>>> someone writes: >>>>>>>> I want to build a pair of 700C wheels to convert a vintage (1970s) >>>>>>>> bike to clincher tires. Was wondering what rims you would >>>>>>>> recommend? Need to be silver, 36h, look vintage (not aero nor >>>>>>>> deep >>>>>>>> V), and good quality. I'm about 180 pounds. >>>>>>> can't go wrong with some Sun cr-18s in polished alu. >>>>>> http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPRMRDSUN/RM8491
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>>>>>> No sockets! No good
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>>>>> Horseshit
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>>>> The two hand built wheels I have with Sun CR-18 rims (ISO 406-mm >>>> size) are now about 7 years old, and show no cracking around the >>>> spoke holes.
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>>> what is your spoke tension?
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>> Adequate.
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> er, so that allows you to correlate rim cracking with anodizing then? > you /did/ mean that when you were advocating the use of unanodized > rims after red herring consumption, right?
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What does the presence or lack thereof of sockets have to do with anodizing?
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when you refer to "polished alu" as if that is something other than an aesthetic benefit, it's you drinking the jobstian kool-aid about rim cracking being caused by anodizing. hence my question about spoke tension.
May I add some clarity here?
The OP asked for rims that were "silver" and that "look[ed] vintage". Another poster, Landotter, posted a link to Sun CR-18 rims "in polished alu". IMO, that was for the visuals, not for any anodized/ unanodized issues.
You still read the velo-troll's posts? Pity. Aren't most colored rims, other than velocity, powder coated and machined, anyway? I like the look of plain aluminum myself.
