Rim recommendation for first time wheelbuilder?

Dave Beal said:

I've finished reading Jobst Brandt's book and Sheldon Brown's website, and I'm ready to try my
hand at wheelbuilding. The first decision is rims. I've got it narrowed down to three:

Mavic Open Pro - pros: double eyelets; cons: complaints about "ticking"

Velocity Aerohead - pros: lightest, has off-center version for rear wheel; cons: no eyelets

Velocity Razor - pros: eyelets; cons: heaviest

You might also consider the Torelli Master which is not anodized and does not have machined
sidewalls. I think they're $39, 435 grams, and available in 32 or 36 hole drillings.

See: torelli.comwheels.htmlOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

Also, what are the pros and cons of machined sidewalls?

Machining removes some metal from the sidewall, shortening life and making the sidewall thickness
uneven. The reason for machining is eliminate the slight discontinuity that sometimes occurs where
the rim is joined.

Art Harris

Harris said:

"Dave Beal" wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Mavic Open Pro - pros: double eyelets; cons: complaints about "ticking"

Guy I rode with yesterday -- his rear wheel sounded like a tambourine. Claimed the hub was clean,
but that others had had trouble with open pro's this way. I did know someone else with this symptom
-- but there are a lot of these rims out there that do not have this noise.

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Quoted message said:

Velocity Aerohead - pros: lightest, has off-center version for rear wheel; cons: no eyelets

Not great. Lightest is also not great for a first build. Light rims are more finicky -- usually.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Velocity Razor - pros: eyelets; cons: heaviest

You might also consider the Torelli Master which is not anodized and does not have machined
sidewalls. I think they're $39, 435 grams, and available in 32 or 36 hole drillings.

Although what they say about both machining and anodizing on their website does not inspire
confidence.

Quoted message said:

See: torelli.comwheels.htmlOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

Also, what are the pros and cons of machined sidewalls?

Machining removes some metal from the sidewall, shortening life and making the sidewall thickness
uneven. The reason for machining is eliminate the slight discontinuity that sometimes occurs where
the rim is joined.

The reason some rims have machined sidewalls is that someone noticed that anodized rims brake
poorly. Rather than do away with the anodizing, they scrape it off of the sidewalls. The rest of the
above is not necessarily true. One would hope that the manufacturer would start with a thicker rim
before machining off material from the sidewall. There is no real reason why a machined sidewall
will be more uneven than an unmachined one.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | If all economists were laid end to end, they would not reach a _`\(,_ | conclusion. --
George Bernard Shaw (_)/ (_) |

My Open Pro's dont tick. If there is any swarf rolling aroung in the rim try holding it with the
valve hole downwards and tap the rim lightly with a stick. The rim extrusion has been made thicker
in the area that is machined. IMO machined rims give much better braking.

Good luck

David L. Johnson said:

The reason some rims have machined sidewalls is that someone noticed that anodized rims brake
poorly. Rather than do away with the anodizing, they scrape it off of the sidewalls.

Not entirely true. I've seen non-anodized rims that had machined sidewalls. The idea is to
eliminate any irregularities at the joint that can cause brake shudder. The problem goes away
quickly as the sidewall wears. Or it can be eliminated by choosing the rim orientation that doesn't
cause the shudder.

Art Harris

(Dave Beal) said:

I've finished reading Jobst Brandt's book and Sheldon Brown's website, and I'm ready to try my hand
at wheelbuilding. The first decision is rims. I've got it narrowed down to three:

Mavic Open Pro - pros: double eyelets; cons: complaints about "ticking"

Velocity Aerohead - pros: lightest, has off-center version for rear wheel; cons: no eyelets

Velocity Razor - pros: eyelets; cons: heaviest

Also, what are the pros and cons of machined sidewalls?

I'm a recreational rider, about 2000 miles per year, all on hard surfaced roads. I'm sure I could
get away with rims less expensive than these, but I figure if I'm going to build wheels, I'd might
as well build good ones. Thanks.

I've built about 7 wheels now I guess, with only two of those being with new rims - the basic Mavic
MA3. A nice new rim will give you a better chance of getting a decent wheel at the end of it,
providing it's a good build of course. However, I would also recommend disassembling/reassembling an
old wheel, being careful to seperate all your inbound/outbound and drive/non-drive side spokes, thus
replacing all these existing spokes in their rightful place again. It's really good practice.

It's theraputic to wheelbuild. Here's to roundness.

Garry

dave-<< I've finished reading Jobst Brandt's book and Sheldon Brown's website, and I'm ready to try
my hand at wheelbuilding. The first decision is rims. I've got it narrowed down to three: >><BR><BR>

but ya mention-<< Velocity Aerohead - pros: lightest, has off-center version for rear wheel; cons:
no eyelets

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<BR><BR>

a 'con' as no eyelets. This isn't a bad thing if the rim is designed properly.And I think the
Aerohead is.

Look at a CXP-22-great rim, IMO, and not expensive.

<< I'm sure I could get away with rims less expensive than these, but I figure if I'm going to build
wheels, I'd might as well build good ones. >><BR><BR>

Good ones is up to you, the builder, not the equipment you choose.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"