Rim brakes on patterned steel rims?

Jasper Janssen said:

The rims are a problem that'd need to be solved either way, though, since they're chromed steel
with fairly deep (0.5-1 mm or so) stripes diagonally across, alternating in both directions. Can I
just use them and ride them until the pads wear through the sidewall, or do I *really* need to do
a rimchange immediately?

Well, steel rims are notorious for becoming totally useless for braking in the rain. Aluminum work
far better for wet braking. As far as a caliper goes, there should be plenty of half-way decent
single-pivot calipers that will work with your wide tires. Maybe stuff meant for bmx bikes would be
the cheapest solution. There is no intrinsic advantage of cantis, either, since the angle of the
force is not even close to perpendicular to the rim. Caliper brakes are far better in that, as are
old-fashioned center-pull brakes.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they are not _`\(,_ | certain, and as
far as they are certain, they do not refer to (_)/ (_) | reality. -- Albert Einstein

"David L. Johnson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Tue, 02 Dec 2003 02:47:09 +0000, Jasper Janssen wrote: Well, steel rims are notorious for
becoming totally useless for braking in the rain. Aluminum work far better for wet braking. As far
as a caliper

<<snip..>>

Quoted message said:

David L. Johnson

Yup, and they're chromed which makes them much harder than alu so they never wear through! All they
do is eat brake pads like a coarse file! Ditch them for alu.

Cheers,

Scott..

Jasper Janssen said:

Hi,

I've got a traditional 3-hub-speed beater bike I'm currently abusing for getting around the city
and environs, but the front drum brake is pretty inadequate for my weight. A single-pivot cheap
aluminium brake, which seems to be the only the sort of thing that'd fit around my 35 mm tyres, is
probably even more inadequate. Are there any decent calipers around at a not-too-high pricepoint
for that sort of use[1]? If it gets into the higher prices, probably getting a cheap fork with
canti bosses and a mid-level V-brake and lever(s) would be cheaper.

The rims are a problem that'd need to be solved either way, though, since they're chromed steel
with fairly deep (0.5-1 mm or so) stripes diagonally across, alternating in both directions. Can I
just use them and ride them until the pads wear through the sidewall, or do I *really* need to do
a rimchange immediately?

Jasper

[1] I'll measure the dimensions tomorrow.

There are lots of brake arm lengths so measure before you go shopping. Expect $8 to $15 for a
name-brand aluminum caliper, new. Your present lever is compatible. Any caliper on a steel rim will
not stop well (dismal in wet) but millions of everyday commuters ride them without complaint. Since
such calipers are dirt cheap I would try one and judge for yourself.

Since your drum is fully depreciated, keep an eye out for a wheel of the same size with an aluminum
rim. Then a cheap sidepull will stop very well.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Jasper Janssen said:

The rims are a problem that'd need to be solved either way, though, since they're chromed steel
with fairly deep (0.5-1 mm or so) stripes diagonally across, alternating in both directions. Can I
just use them and ride them until the pads wear through the sidewall, or do I *really* need to do
a rimchange immediately?

The pads will wear through the sidewall at about the time that the Sun goes supernova, life on Earth
ceases to exist and Jobst starts tying and soldering all his wheels.

Get some leather-faced brake blocks if you don't want to replace the wheels. They offer some
improvement in wet weather.

Jasper Janssen said:

I've got a traditional 3-hub-speed beater bike I'm currently abusing for getting around the city
and environs, but the front drum brake is pretty inadequate for my weight. A single-pivot cheap
aluminium brake, which seems to be the only the sort of thing that'd fit around my 35 mm tyres, is
probably even more inadequate.

Drum brakes are the most sensitive of all brakes to lever pull characteristics and cable tension
adjustment. Over time they may also build up dust internally that impedes good braking. You may be
able to dramatically improve the braking of your front drum by thoroughly cleaning and adjusting it,
and perhaps by substituting levers that have higher advantage, or more cable travel, or both.

Older MTB levers or motocross levers usually offer high leverage along with ample cable travel.
Adjustable-leverage Shimano "Servo-Wave" levers are another good option, giving high initial travel
to take up the "mush" in the system, plus good leverage at the end of the stroke.

Chalo Colina