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Riding slicks

Started by florida_hybrid · · Last activity · 15 posts · 1,419 views

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Bike Cafe
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21 June 2006
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30 June 2006
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florida_hybrid
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  1. I'm pretty jazzed with my new road bike (first one in way too many years), but it came with the mondo pro slicks (700x23). I've had it out 3 time so far and its feeling pretty good, but I just have a few newbie questions:

    1. What precautions do I need to take with these slicks? I've been riding my hybrid with treads which seems really stable, I just don't want to get into trouble without a little knowledge of what to do/not do. I realize turning in gravel/sand is a big no no, but can this also give you trouble just going straight?

    2. What about the max size bump, change in concrete height thats safe to take on? I go over this one spot on this bridge were it changes by at least 2" or so, I've been going real slow there and pulling up on the front as I get there, is this a bad idea?

    3. I live in florida and PM thunderstorms are just part of the day here, if I get caught in one can I still ride home or will I need to just wait it out?

    Sorry for the newbie ?s, this just seems like the place to ask...🙂

  2. florida_hybrid said:

    1. What precautions do I need to take with these slicks? I've been riding my hybrid with treads which seems really stable, I just don't want to get into trouble without a little knowledge of what to do/not do. I realize turning in gravel/sand is a big no no, but can this also give you trouble just going straight?


    That's about it.. going dead straight you shouldn't really have any problems. One thing some people tend to do is over-inflate their tyres, thinking higher pressure always means less rolling resistance (which is not the case).

    Something around about 90-110psi tends to be the best compromise between rolling resistance, comfort and puncture protection.

    Quoted post said:

    2. What about the max size bump, change in concrete height thats safe to take on? I go over this one spot on this bridge were it changes by at least 2" or so, I've been going real slow there and pulling up on the front as I get there, is this a bad idea?


    That's fine.. it's a good idea to stand off the saddle as you go through those sorts of bumps, so you can move your weight around more easily to reduce the load on the falling wheel.

    As you go through the bumps a few times like this, you'll get a feel for riding through them really smoothly.

    Quoted post said:

    3. I live in florida and PM thunderstorms are just part of the day here, if I get caught in one can I still ride home or will I need to just wait it out?


    Bicycle tyres don't aquaplane, however the rubber itself does not have as much grip on wet surfaces. So it's fine to ride, but be more careful when it comes to cornering.

    If it's the first rain for a while, also be wary as this is when the road is most slippery: all the oil deposits left on the road by cars over the dry spell will rise on top of the puddles.

  3. 2. What about the max size bump, change in concrete height thats safe to take on? I go over this one spot on this bridge were it changes by at least 2" or so, I've been going real slow there and pulling up on the front as I get there, is this a bad idea?

    Bunny Hop!

  4. I would add one suggestion. Your bike should easily take 700X25 tires and you could run them at 85 lbs and get a smoother ride without fear of pinch flats. As far as a 2 inch curb, you can hit that at 5 mph or so without a problem. Still, it's a good idea to practise pulling up your front tire over the curb and hopping your rear tire up as well.

  5. feeling really newbie here... so that is what a pinch flat is??

    (striking something like a curb or change in road height hard enough to cause a flat?)

    thanks for the tip ID, I'll keep these on for now, but if I have a trouble I may experiment with different tyres/sizes.

  6. florida_hybrid said:

    feeling really newbie here... so that is what a pinch flat is??

    (striking something like a curb or change in road height hard enough to cause a flat?)

    thanks for the tip ID, I'll keep these on for now, but if I have a trouble I may experiment with different tyres/sizes.

    A pinch flat results from the tire deflecting so much on a sharp edge that the tube gets pinched between the rim and the tire. Also known as a "snakebite" because of the pair of holes it leaves in the tube.

  7. Thanks art!! It rained almost all day sunday, driven crazy by being stuck inside, I ventured out and picked up two newbie cycling books that should help with the "lingo". But its much more fun to ask here and see what the responses are!!

  8. My two cents....

    1) Go fast and don't miss AussieRob's earlier suggestion to bunny hop that 2" thing rather than roll over it, 700x25 or not. Bunny hop = compress/pre-load the bike, jump up, pull bike up in air (with your clipless pedals or toe clips). Whole bike comes up. You don't get pinch flat or a beat up rim because you cleared the obstacle. Don't worry - easier done than said. Just practice timing. Get a "How to Mountain Bike" book for more how-to.

    2) when roads are wet, proceed with caution with advice you've already got, watching these slipperiest places: painted bits of road, e.g. crosswalks, lines; manhole covers; middle part of lane where cars stop at lights and drip oil.

  9. P.S.

    You won't regret fenders for wet weather riding. They rule.

    For occasional wetness, continue with your slicks. But if you're going to make a habit of being wet, recommend you get some tires with a slight tread. Slicks are intended for dry roads.

  10. Tread serves no purpose on a cycling tire other than marketting purposes. Because of the shape of the contact path, you cannot aquaplane on a bike tire until you hit speeds of over a hundred and fifty miles per hour. Slick tires have better traction and less rolling resistance than treaded bike tires. On asphalt slick tires are superior in every way to treaded tires. Those are the facts.

    That said, watch out for paint and metal things like manhole covers, grills, and rail road tracks when it is wet. And as anyone who listens to Phil Ligget knows, your tires are more susceptible to punctures from "flints."

  11. Bro Deal said:

    That said, watch out for paint and metal things like manhole covers, grills, and rail road tracks when it is wet. And as anyone who listens to Phil Ligget knows, your tires are more susceptible to punctures from "flints."


    Especially when said railroad tracks cut across the road at a 45° angle. It rained this morning when I was out and I nearly had some asphalt breakfast.

  12. Bro Deal said:

    Tread serves no purpose on a cycling tire other than marketting purposes. Because of the shape of the contact path, you cannot aquaplane on a bike tire until you hit speeds of over a hundred and fifty miles per hour. Slick tires have better traction and less rolling resistance than treaded bike tires. On asphalt slick tires are superior in every way to treaded tires. Those are the facts.


    But we're tricking him out for speed. It it works really well, there might be some risk. Ha ha.

    Actually - standing here humbly corrected and a bit miffed at myself for drinking the kool-aid. There is a lot of opinion out there supporting the "slicks rule, even in the wet" position. Thanks for opening my eyes up to the laws of physics on the smooth road. But I'll still be keeping the tread on my MTBs.

  13. what are flints?

  14. sharp stones

  15. florida_hybrid said:

    (striking something like a curb or change in road height hard enough to cause a flat?)

    hit a curb hard enough and it will 😉

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