http://www.nzherald.co.nz/category/story.cfm?c_id=304&objectid=10449681&pnum=0
Restaurants Story
Reviewers criticise at their legal peril
5:00AM Thursday July 05, 2007
By David Usborne
Everybody wants to be a critic, but be warned. Praise what you see -
or taste - and the creator will love you forever. Slam it, however,
and they might just try to bite back.
Just ask Craig LaBan, the restaurant reviewer for the Philadelphia
Inquirer. Earlier this year, he visited an eatery called Chops in the
nearby town of Bala Cynwyd and made the mistake of shredding its fare.
The meal was "expensive and disappointing", he wrote in a capsule
review of just three sentences. It included a chopped salad that was
"soggy and sour" and a strip steak that was "miserably tough and
fatty".
These few words stuck in the throat of the owner, Alex Plotkin, who
responded with a libel lawsuit. While expressions of opinion are
theoretically protected by the First Amendment in the United States,
LaBan is accused of false assertion of fact. According to the suit, it
was not a strip steak that he ate, but rather a steak sandwich without
the bread - in other words, an inferior cut.
"No legitimate food critic would ever mistake, or compare, a steak
sandwich with a strip steak," the lawsuit says. Never mind that LaBan
praised another dish at Chops - its crabcakes.
Juries historically side with the critics in such cases, but that may
not help LaBan, because of a recent ruling by the judge obliging him
to give a deposition in front of a camera. He fears the images will be
shown at trial and the most important weapon of his trade will be lost
- his anonymity.
A photograph of LaBan on his newspaper's restaurant guide shows him
with five baguettes shielding his face. Already, he sometimes takes to
new spots in disguise in case he will be recognised. Restaurants
understandably try to up their game if they know an important reviewer
is in the room.
"Mr LaBan's anonymity is important to the process by which he reviews
restaurants," Inquirer lawyers said in court papers. "If a restaurant
knew Mr LaBan was in its dining room, it might put on a show for him
that would not be provided to the general dining public."
His editor has also weighed in. LaBan, said Bill Marimow, "dots his
i's, he crosses his t's, and anyone who reads his reviews knows that
he is meticulous, fastidious and fair as one can be. In the long run,
our work will be vindicated because Craig is a stellar journalist and
a stellar reviewer."
Suits involving critics are increasingly common even in the US. A New
Jersey winery recently sued a reviewer who, without even naming it,
wrote that wines from the state in general are made with "fruit
flavours that are designed to mask the otherwise dreadful plonk". In
another case, a critic won a case brought against him for his
description of a fish dish as "trout a la green plague".
In other countries the risk of being found guilty of libel can be
greater.
In Sydney, the owners of Coco Roco, which has since closed, won a case
against the Sydney Morning Herald after it called it "a bleak spot on
the culinary landscape".
A judge in Belfast recently awarded a US$50,000 ($64,000) judgment
against the Irish Times for its unkind assessment of an Italian eatery
called Goodfellas.
- INDEPENDENT
--
una cerveza mas por favor ...
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