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Replacing spokes + bending them

Started by Jules · · Last activity · 10 posts · 826 views

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
19 December 2006
Last activity
22 December 2006
Original author
Jules
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10
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  1. I'm trying my first DIY spoke replacement, and it seems entirely
    impossible to lace the spoke correctly without bending it at least 20-30
    degrees on the way in.

    I've removed the cassette and disc, so the only obstruction now is other
    spokes. But they're very much in the way!

    Is this normal? Removing other spokes wouldn't help AFAICS, because the
    same problem would arise all the way around the wheel.

    It's a pretty standard looking 26" MTB wheel spoke pattern.

    Any tips appreciated ;-)

    Jules

  2. Jules said:

    I'm trying my first DIY spoke replacement, and it seems entirely
    impossible to lace the spoke correctly without bending it at least 20-30
    degrees on the way in.

    A little bit of bending is common. There should be no permanent
    deformation. You're about to pull any little bends out of it anyway.

    --
    Dave Hughes | [email hidden]
    There's no point in being grown up if you can't be
    childish sometimes.-- Dr. Who

  3. Dave Hughes said:
    Jules said:

    I'm trying my first DIY spoke replacement, and it seems entirely
    impossible to lace the spoke correctly without bending it at least 20-30
    degrees on the way in.

    A little bit of bending is common. There should be no permanent
    deformation. You're about to pull any little bends out of it anyway.

    Agree 100%. With my first broken spoke I agonised over how to get it in
    without any bending. Now I just brutally deform the replacement spoke to
    make it easier to get in. Quite likely it is not the 'done' way in theory
    because of adding stresses, but as Dave said, by the time you've tensioned
    it, the spoke comes out fine. I've never had a replacement spoke break,
    either. {said as he touches the nearest lump of wood}

    Cheers,

    Vince

    'Off soon, so I Wish you all a Merry Xmas and lots of shiny bike gear in the
    stocking!'

  4. Vincent Patrick said:
    Quoted message said:

    A little bit of bending is common. There should be no permanent
    deformation. You're about to pull any little bends out of it anyway.Agree 100%. With my first broken spoke I agonised over how to get it in


    without any bending. Now I just brutally deform the replacement spoke to
    make it easier to get in. Quite likely it is not the 'done' way in theory
    because of adding stresses, but as Dave said, by the time you've tensioned
    it, the spoke comes out fine. I've never had a replacement spoke break,
    either. {said as he touches the nearest lump of wood}

    A bit of cold working usually makes metal stronger and harder, but more
    brittle and therefore less resistant to metal fatigue.

    However, spokes nearly always fail at the elbow, which has had much
    more brutal cold working than the bending you give the rest of it
    during replacement, so I doubt bending it during installation would
    make much practical difference to spoke life.

    Travis

  5. Dave Hughes said:

    A little bit of bending is common. There should be no
    permanent deformation. You're about to pull any little bends
    out of it anyway.

    I'll add my agreement too. I often bend a spoke through 90º or
    so in order to fit it easily, but I try to make the bend
    gradual - no sharp kinks.

    John

  6. Jules said:

    I'm trying my first DIY spoke replacement, and it seems entirely
    impossible to lace the spoke correctly without bending it at least 20-30
    degrees on the way in.

    I'm assuming it's a spoke you're inserting in towards the center of the hub?

    If so, just undo (but don't remove completely) one of the spokes opposite, so that you can get it past.

    It's one of those things that's difficult to describe, but incredibly easy to do.

    Regards,

    Suzy

  7. Jules said:


    Any tips appreciated ;-)

    You have to work out how the spokes weave together. then weave it in by
    curving from the other end. The curve is over the length of the spoke so
    no problems.

  8. suzyj said:

    I'm assuming it's a spoke you're inserting in towards the center of the hub?

    If so, just undo (but don't remove completely) one of the spokes opposite, so that you can get it past.

    It's one of those things that's difficult to describe, but incredibly easy to do.

    Regards,

    Suzy

    Never had to do loosen or remove other spokes, just bend the spoke over its length as others have suggested. One mistake I've made is to scratch the rim with the end of the spoke while pushing it through before putting it into the nipple. A bit more bending prevents that.

    Edit: actually I do remember having to loosen another spoke on a wheel which must have been 4 cross as the 2 spokes overlayed each other near their heads.

  9. On 2006-12-19, Dave Hughes (aka Bruce)
    was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:

    Quoted message said:
    Jules said:

    I'm trying my first DIY spoke replacement, and it seems entirely
    impossible to lace the spoke correctly without bending it at least 20-30
    degrees on the way in.

    A little bit of bending is common. There should be no permanent
    deformation. You're about to pull any little bends out of it anyway.

    Why, having read a few sources on wheel truing, and even possibly the
    occasional spoke replacing page, have I never read the bit about
    having to bend spokes to get them in?

    I came to my first spoke replacement and sat there for 20 minutes
    trying to work out how it was possible to get a spoke in once the
    wheel was nearly fully laced. I came to the conclusion it must be
    impossible (unless it's like those silly topological puzzle toys which
    I could never get either), and that the tensioning at the final moment
    would get most of the bends out anyway (I had to do it relatively
    severely because of an obstacle in the form of a crossed spoke on the
    opposite side of the hub). But I have never come across that
    explanation until now.

    Mind you, my boss didn't explain to me that you had to open the mirror
    cover on the 4th mirror when you use a coudé based instrument on the
    telescope either (I didn't know there was a cover down there!),
    costing us an hour on my first night of a new instrument.

    --
    TimC
    "The application failed to fail"

  10. TimC said:

    Why, having read a few sources on wheel truing, and even possibly the
    occasional spoke replacing page, have I never read the bit about
    having to bend spokes to get them in?

    <old fart>
    That's the difference between book learnin' and real learnin' sonny!
    </old fart>

    I guess it's one of those things that's reasonably obvious if you've done
    a fair bit of mechanical type stuff. A gentle bend across the spoke will
    let it slide past everything else and won't do it any harm. It's also one
    of those things you just do, without thinking about it, so it doesn't get
    recorded in the Dummies' guide.

    On the other hand I don't think I've seen too many books record the quick
    way to get [censored] spokes out to reclaim a decent hub and/or rim - wire
    cutters.

    --
    Dave Hughes | [email hidden]
    "I've found that nurturing one's Zen nature is vital to dealing with
    technology. Violence is pretty damn useful too" - Lionel Lauer

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