replacing rims

Buy two new identical rims. Tape (4 points should do it) one in the
same orientation to each of the damaged rims. Slowly detension each
wheel and swap spokes from one rim to the next. Re-true and tension.
Your wheels should be better than new.

In article
<[email hidden]>,
Francesco Devittori <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Hi all,
yesterday during a race I hit perpendicularly a rather high splitter
island. I don't know how but I managed to stay upright, however both
rims are destroyed.
The wheels are open pro/32 dt revolution 3x/dura ace 7700 hubs.

Should I worry about the spokes (they do not look damaged) or do you
suggest to just replace the rims?

This wheelset is rather new, it is less than 6 months old, but the
impact was very strong, from the bang I heard and the shock received by
my hands I first tought that the fork or frame was broken too!

(Side note: rear wheel with completely cracked rim is still nearly
perfectly true -- good wheelbuilder!)

The spokes are good to use again. You are cavalier about
the fork and frame. What material is in the for blades,
fork crown, steering tube, and frame tubes? Two likely
places to inspect closely for damage are the
head tube-down tube joint, and the
fork crown-steering tube joint. All elements of the front
end should pass a thorough inspection before mounting up
and riding again.

If carbon fiber is used inspect for surface abrasions and
gouges as well.

--
Michael Press

Francesco Devittori said:

This wheelset is rather new, it is less than 6 months old, but the
impact was very strong, from the bang I heard and the shock received by
my hands I first tought that the fork or frame was broken too!

Do you have a carbon frame? Please read the thread "carbon fork crack",
in particular the posts from Mike J., the largest carbon frame dealer
in the USA, and one post by treynolds.

Francesco Devittori said:

Hi all,
yesterday during a race I hit perpendicularly a rather high splitter
island. I don't know how but I managed to stay upright, however both
rims are destroyed.
The wheels are open pro/32 dt revolution 3x/dura ace 7700 hubs.

Should I worry about the spokes (they do not look damaged) or do you
suggest to just replace the rims?

This wheelset is rather new, it is less than 6 months old, but the
impact was very strong, from the bang I heard and the shock received by
my hands I first tought that the fork or frame was broken too!

(Side note: rear wheel with completely cracked rim is still nearly
perfectly true -- good wheelbuilder!)

Francesco

Get two new rims, take all the tension off the spokes, tape together,
transfer spokes, retension.....I think Revs in the rear is a not good
idea but that's for another day.

Yes, I have a carbon frame/fork, however it's not a super-light/thin
one. The frame is a pre b-stay C40, the fork is a sturdy colnago street
with alloy steerer.
There is no visible damage or suspect spot but I'll show it to my LBS
just to be sure.

Quoted message said:

Yes, I have a carbon frame/fork, however it's not a super-light/thin
one. The frame is a pre b-stay C40, the fork is a sturdy colnago street
with alloy steerer.
There is no visible damage or suspect spot but I'll show it to my LBS
just to be sure.

Please read below what I have selectively culled from the thread
"Carbon Fork Crack", from the posts of Mike Jacoubowsky, the largest
carbon bike dealer in the USA (Chain Reaction Bicycles,
<www.ChainReactionBicycles.com>😉, and especially, the very last one, by
treynolds. "If this sounds like I'm trying to scare some sense into
you, it's because I am."

=======================================================
Has the fork ever been involved in a crash? Carried on a roof rack that
clamps the dropout? If the answer to either question is yes, then you
definitely need to look into things some more.

There are a *lot* of dangerously-weakened carbon forks out on the road.
Please, anyone reading this, use some common sense. If your bike had a
serious crash, *assume* that the fork may have been damaged. We've got
a frame in our shop... one of our employees... he ran into a curb, and
the steel frame buckled on the top tube and actually tore on the
downtube. The carbon fiber fork appears perfect. And I'll bet a lot of
people would take that fork and put it onto a new bike. But geez, that
fork was NOT made to take that kind of force without damage. Nothing
is. Common sense says to assume the worst, but again, I'll bet many are
riding on forks that have been through something like that, and think
it's fine.

I'd bring the bike back into the shop you got it from and have someone
take a look at it there. Hopefully they have a digital camera so, if
they have any questions about what's going on, they can forward photos
to the manufacturer. Even with all our experience, we still find
ourselves doing that from time-to-time, although we consider ourselves
fortunate; we've got a long-term relationship with the techs, engineers
and warranty people such that, if they tell us "That's the first we've
ever seen that", we can actually believe them. (This doesn't happen
very often)

Unfortunately, there are an increasing number of "JRA" (Just Riding
Along) fork failures... failures of a very serious, and sometimes
deadly nature... where it has been credibly determined the damage had
been caused by an earlier crash, which the owner didn't think required
attention.

The "next crash" may not be related to any impact whatsoever. It may
truly be a "JRA"-type failure, or at least seem so at the time. People
*have* crashed, severely. People *have* died. For doing nothing more
than riding on a fork that they thought was fine, but wasn't. If this
sounds like I'm trying to scare some sense into you, it's because I am.

Yes, present generation carbon forks are much stronger than the steel
and aluminum forks that came before. That can be verified through
testing. They work. The problem is that people don't understand that
they're not bomb proof, they do get damaged, and that damage may not
always be easy to find.

Common sense may save your life. If you've had a nasty crash, one in
which it's possible your fork, handlebar or stem took an impact,
replace those parts. Please. A failure of any of those items will lead
to far more excitement than you want.

It's not the failures that some expected to see 10 years ago... it's
the lack of failures that has caused the problem. Yes, I know that
sounds really odd, but I just don't know how to put it. We've been
trained, essentially, to think that there's not an issue, because it's
not visual.

The things people worried about 10 years ago weren't crash-related,
but rather true JRAs. Those (thankfully) haven't materialized. The
forks are very, very strong. And very reliable. We can say stronger
than what came before. But they aren't bomb-proof. They do get damaged
when impacted; people just aren't looking for it.

[email hidden]
Mike Jacoubowsky wrote: > ........

Quoted message said:

There are a *lot* of dangerously-weakened carbon forks out on the

road.

Quoted message said:

Please, anyone reading this, use some common sense. If your bike had a
serious crash, *assume* that the fork may have been damaged.

A friend of mine was killed when his carbon fork failed during a fast
descent on Thanksgiving Day, 2005. He had two high-end bikes, one of
which had been in a crash and he was still riding it. I don't know if
his crashed bike was the one he was riding that day but in all
likelihood it was.

Mike makes a very good point. Don't be like my friend.

Tom
======================================================={

Francesco Devittori said:

Hi all,
yesterday during a race I hit perpendicularly a rather high splitter
island. I don't know how but I managed to stay upright, however both
rims are destroyed.
The wheels are open pro/32 dt revolution 3x/dura ace 7700 hubs.

Should I worry about the spokes (they do not look damaged) or do you
suggest to just replace the rims?

This wheelset is rather new, it is less than 6 months old, but the
impact was very strong, from the bang I heard and the shock received by
my hands I first tought that the fork or frame was broken too!

(Side note: rear wheel with completely cracked rim is still nearly
perfectly true -- good wheelbuilder!)

Francesco

I would suggest you inspect the fork for cracks very carefully, and continue to
do so for some time to come. I had a fork blade break a couple months ago (not
catastrophic failure; I discovered the crack during inspection, before the blade
separated from the crown). The only actual incident I could think of that could
have caused this damage had occured *two*months* before (front wheel met a hard,
immovable object head-on while I was mounted and rolling at about 1-3 MPH).

--
Michael

Francesco Devittori said:

Hi all,
yesterday during a race I hit perpendicularly a rather high splitter
island. I don't know how but I managed to stay upright, however both
rims are destroyed.
The wheels are open pro/32 dt revolution 3x/dura ace 7700 hubs.

Should I worry about the spokes (they do not look damaged) or do you
suggest to just replace the rims?

There is a slight possibility that you may have a couple of spokes
stretched in the region immediately adjacent to the kink in the front
rim; this is only a cause for concern it it's in the area of the
threads. If a nipple threaded on backwards can be spun all the way to
the end of the threads without binding, there's no deformation worth
worrying about; use the spokes over. You should be able to reuse
enarly all of the spokes in any event. I'd be amazed if more than
three or four showed any stretching.

Quoted message said:

This wheelset is rather new, it is less than 6 months old, but the
impact was very strong, from the bang I heard and the shock received by
my hands I first tought that the fork or frame was broken too!

This kind of random obstacle is faced by many commuters all the time.
I've taken to using a light mountain bike with a suspension fork and
city slicks as my townie. If I'm forced over a curb by traffic, I
just ride on. (But hopefully not into a wall!)

Quoted message said:

(Side note: rear wheel with completely cracked rim is still nearly
perfectly true -- good wheelbuilder!)

At one time, a lot of wheels had just a butted joint with an inserted
clip to complete the hoop; essentially, they were cracked from day
one...and they worked just fine.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Where's the hat rack said:

Quoted message said:

Yesterday during a race I hit perpendicularly a rather high
splitter island. I don't know how but I managed to stay upright,
however both rims are destroyed. The wheels are open pro/32 DT
revolution 3x/Dura ace 7700 hubs.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Should I worry about the spokes (they do not look damaged) or do
you suggest to just replace the rims?

Quoted message said:

There is a slight possibility that you may have a couple of spokes
stretched in the region immediately adjacent to the kink in the
front rim; this is only a cause for concern it it's in the area of
the threads. If a nipple threaded on backwards can be spun all the
way to the end of the threads without binding, there's no
deformation worth worrying about; use the spokes over. You should
be able to reuse enarly all of the spokes in any event. I'd be
amazed if more than three or four showed any stretching.

Cut out the fear mongering. When a wheel gets collapsed laterally or
radially there are no loads that could cause spoke damage other than
through sharp bends. Make that "You can reuse all of the spokes in
any event (if there are no kinked ones)."

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

This wheelset is rather new, it is less than 6 months old, but the
impact was very strong, from the bang I heard and the shock
received by my hands I first tought that the fork or frame was
broken too!

That is still a possibility. Who looked at it and assured you that
there is not frame damage?

Quoted message said:

This kind of random obstacle is faced by many commuters all the
time. I've taken to using a light mountain bike with a suspension
fork and city slicks as my townie. If I'm forced over a curb by
traffic, I just ride on. (But hopefully not into a wall!)

I hope (aka hopefully) you jump the curb instead of riding into it.
This is a skill worth having in such instances.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

(Side note: rear wheel with completely cracked rim is still nearly
perfectly true -- good wheelbuilder!)

That has nothing to do with wheel building, but rather how the
obstacle was encountered.

Quoted message said:

At one time, a lot of wheels had just a butted joint with an
inserted clip to complete the hoop; essentially, they were cracked
from day one... and they worked just fine.

Jobst Brandt

Francesco Devittori said:

Hi all,
yesterday during a race I hit perpendicularly a rather high splitter
island. I don't know how but I managed to stay upright, however both
rims are destroyed.
The wheels are open pro/32 dt revolution 3x/dura ace 7700 hubs.

Should I worry about the spokes (they do not look damaged) or do you
suggest to just replace the rims?

This wheelset is rather new, it is less than 6 months old, but the
impact was very strong, from the bang I heard and the shock received by
my hands I first tought that the fork or frame was broken too!

(Side note: rear wheel with completely cracked rim is still nearly
perfectly true -- good wheelbuilder!)

The spokes should be OK. I'm surprised the rims were destroyed - in a
perpendicular impact the frame normally fails well before the wheels.
People have ridden into the back of cars and bent forks, top and down
tubes, but their wheels have been OK.

The worst thing for a rim (IME) is the rider and bike slowly toppling
over sideways at low speed. This will bend rear wheels that have
previously coped with thousands of miles, stupid stunts and terrible
surfaces. I put a 3mm deflection in my rear wheel in December when I
had a front wheel wash out on wet leaves (while trying to avoid a large
dog in the road). Re-truing the wheel took half an hour; the stiff neck
took six weeks to recover.

Years ago I put a half-inch bend in a rim when a "pusher" at the start
of a time trial misheard the count and dropped me on the count of 3. I
rode 25 miles home with the rear brake disconnected, oozing blood. The
chainring "bite marks" took two years to fade. The wheel trued up OK
and I rode it until I got sick of the rusty eyelets (it was a cheap
Campag rim).