replacing disk brake pads

"gabrielle" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

All righty - the time has come for new brake pads on my disk brakes.
They're Cannondale Coda brakes. Somehow I don't have the manual for the
brakes in amongst all my paperwork. :P

The problem: I can get the old pads out just fine, but I can't get the
new pads back in, it's like they're too thick & they won't both go in to
the calipers. Is there some trick to it?

gabrielle (wrenchette #3)

Hey Gab! ',;~}~

Right, I'm not familiar with the Coda units, BUT, normally, with hydraulic
disk brakes, you have to push the piston(s) back, into the calliper first -
they gradually move out during use to accommodate pad wear - get something
like a piece of wood or plastic (so it can't damage the metal of the
piston), and lever the piston(s) back until it/they (there are soetimes 2
that move, sometimes only one... ) are sat right inside the caliper, flush
with the surface, then continue to install - all should go smoothly then!

Best o' luck ',;~}~

Shaun aRe

Yes, with most pads you take one of the old pads out, so that you have
room to get a screwdriver or other tool in to the caliper and lever
against the one remaining old pad, to push the piston back in.

If they are dual cylinders, you swap and do the same against the piston
on the other side with the other old pad.

After this you should have room to fit your new pads.

Then when you fit the new pads they sometimes rub on the disc a bit to
start with, but they will soon adjust to be ok after a short time.
Cameron

Shaun aRe said:

"gabrielle" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

All righty - the time has come for new brake pads on my disk brakes.
They're Cannondale Coda brakes. Somehow I don't have the manual for the
brakes in amongst all my paperwork. :P

The problem: I can get the old pads out just fine, but I can't get the
new pads back in, it's like they're too thick & they won't both go in to
the calipers. Is there some trick to it?

gabrielle (wrenchette #3)

Hey Gab! ',;~}~

Right, I'm not familiar with the Coda units, BUT, normally, with hydraulic
disk brakes, you have to push the piston(s) back, into the calliper first -
they gradually move out during use to accommodate pad wear - get something
like a piece of wood or plastic (so it can't damage the metal of the
piston), and lever the piston(s) back until it/they (there are soetimes 2
that move, sometimes only one... ) are sat right inside the caliper, flush
with the surface, then continue to install - all should go smoothly then!

Best o' luck ',;~}~

Shaun aRe

"levering" bad. I can not endorse that technique, it will work great
but you wrisk damaging the piston and the ID (inside diameter) of the
caliper. or smashing the seal. The result will mean squeeking breaks
for the rest of the calipers life or a leak. The recomended technique
is to use a 'C-clamp' or a strong thumb might be enough to push the
piston(s) in the caliper.

There is a master cylinder located within your lever, just like your
car, you should remove the 'cap' to allow break fluid to move freely
while you are displacing it by pushing the piston(s) in. This can be
messy if you crank that C-clamp to fast, turn your lever so as it is
pointed up, remove the 'cap' ie: screw and hang a bucket or the likes
from your bars to catch break fluid, be sure not to introduce air into
the line. Have a friend get that screw back in as soon as the piston(s)
botem out in the caliper or take the oppertunity to change the fluid
and bleed the breaks. This is sposto be a yearly maintance 'thing'

Don't forget to deglaze your roter or you wrisk squeeking, people that
ride a lot in muddy environments usually dont have to bother.

gabrielle said:

All righty - the time has come for new brake pads on my disk brakes.
They're Cannondale Coda brakes. Somehow I don't have the manual for the
brakes in amongst all my paperwork. :P

The problem: I can get the old pads out just fine, but I can't get the
new pads back in, it's like they're too thick & they won't both go in to
the calipers. Is there some trick to it?

gabrielle (wrenchette #3)

dirtdude said:

"levering" bad. I can not endorse that technique, it will work great
but you wrisk damaging the piston and the ID (inside diameter) of the
caliper. or smashing the seal. The result will mean squeeking breaks
for the rest of the calipers life or a leak. The recomended technique
is to use a 'C-clamp' or a strong thumb might be enough to push the
piston(s) in the caliper.

How does one fit a thumb or c-clamp inside the caliper to press it
back? I just use the bottleopener/screwdriver attachment of my
Swiss Army knife and gently press the pistons back in. Seeing as
I already had it ready to open the obligatory wrench-time beer...

G, hope you didn't wait as long as I did to change mine. I scratched
up my rotor a bit and had to file off some burrs. (new pad
on the right for comparison purposes)

http://myweb.cableone.net/justen/magura_louise_pads.jpg

Justen

Go Here
http://www.parktool.com/repair/

good for future reference

if you are gentle, prying with a screwdriver is just fine, to use a c
clamp, only one arm goes inside agianst the piston, or old pad, the
clamps screw goes to the outside. If you have not added fluid at any
time, none should come out the Master Cyl, bleeding is a good thing,
but if you are not mechainicly inclined, you can save yourself a lot of
frustration by haveing a shop do it.
MOST IMPORTANT; PUMP THE LEVER SEVERAL TIMES BEFOR RIDING, AS IT TAKES
A FEW PUMPS TO GET PADS BACK TO THE ROTOR.

Justen said:

G, hope you didn't wait as long as I did to change mine. I scratched up
my rotor a bit and had to file off some burrs. (new pad on the right for
comparison purposes)

http://myweb.cableone.net/justen/magura_louise_pads.jpg

Holy [censored]! I thought I was bad. I still had about 25% of the pad left,
about a dime's thickness. Thanks for making me feel like not so much of a
procrastinator. 😉

gabrielle

Cameron said:

Shaun aRe wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Hey Gab! ',;~}~

Hi Shaun!

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Right, I'm not familiar with the Coda units, BUT, normally, with
hydraulic disk brakes, you have to push the piston(s) back, into the
calliper first - they gradually move out during use to accommodate pad
wear - get something like a piece of wood or plastic (so it can't damage
the metal of the piston), and lever the piston(s) back until it/they
(there are soetimes 2 that move, sometimes only one... ) are sat right
inside the caliper, flush with the surface, then continue to install -
all should go smoothly then!

I figured it was going to be something like this.

Quoted message said:

Yes, with most pads you take one of the old pads out, so that you have
room to get a screwdriver or other tool in to the caliper and lever
against the one remaining old pad, to push the piston back in.

<...>

Quoted message said:

Then when you fit the new pads they sometimes rub on the disc a bit to
start with, but they will soon adjust to be ok after a short time. Cameron

It turns out there's a hex nut I'm supposed to turn to move the pistons
into the right spot. :$ It's a bit tricky getting them re-centered, but
I'm good to go now! Now I just gotta bleed the suckahs.

(Side note: I ordered my replacement pads from beyondbikes, they were
supposed to send me the XC brake pads but sent me the DH brake pads.)

Thanks for the tips, guys!

gabrielle, now with improved stopping power! Whoo-hoo!

dirtdude wrote:
"You gotta have a 'thin armed' C-clamp."

OK, I got busted, I have more experience with cars disk than with
bicycle, although, come to think of it, the return screw method has
been used on automotive rear disk calipers for many years, and it
often requires both backing off the screw and a little gentle
persausion via any leverage handy.
To my credit, I did post the Park Tool website, which should be a
favorite on any cyclist computer.
Waiting for the day when I can go disk.