replacing chainwheels

You shouldn't need to replace the other rings unless they are excessively worn. If I remember right,
replacing the rings requires just a couple of simple hex or Allen wrenches.

r.b.

[email hidden] (vincent chiao) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Hi, I bought and installed a used 105 triple crankset a little while ago... noticed some shifting
problems in specific combinations, took a look and decided the middle chainring needed to be
replaced, since it seemed to be more worn than the others. So I bought a set of replacement rings,
threw a new middle on and now no more problems. However... I've been wondering if I should replace
*all* the rings at the same time, even if I'm not having any problems with the others? My thinking
was that I'd use the existing granny and the big ring until they need to be replaced, and then I'd
have new rings on hand. Or is it better to have a completely new set of rings? What do you guys
think? And, if I really ought to replace the other rings, would it be more worthwhile to just go
to my LBS or invest in whatever tool(s) I need to do it myself? Thanks! Vincent Chiao.

vincent chiao said:

Hi, I bought and installed a used 105 triple crankset a little while ago... noticed some shifting
problems in specific combinations, took a look and decided the middle chainring needed to be
replaced, since it seemed to be more worn than the others. So I bought a set of replacement rings,
threw a new middle on and now no more problems. However... I've been wondering if I should replace
*all* the rings at the same time, even if I'm not having any problems with the others?

No. Rings that get used less don't need to be replaced so often; chainring and sprocket wear isn't,
and doesn't need to be, *perfectly* matched to chain wear with derailleur gears. Chainrings can have
a very long life when used with chains in good condition.

Quoted message said:

My thinking was that I'd use the existing granny and the big ring until they need to be replaced,
and then I'd have new rings on hand.

That's what I would do if happy with the ratios. You can always try different sizes if you think
they might help.

Quoted message said:

And, if I really ought to replace the other rings, would it be more worthwhile to just go to my
LBS or invest in whatever tool(s) I need to do it myself?

It'll be an easy job when it is eventually necessary (5mm allen wrench job) unless the inner ring is
so small that it can't be lifted over the crank spider - in which case the crank would have to be
removed. I don't know what the limit is for 105's (I would guess 32 teeth).

~PB

"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

or invest in whatever tool(s) I need to do it myself?

It'll be an easy job when it is eventually necessary (5mm allen wrench job) ..>

You will also need the special wrench that prevents the chainring bolts from turning (the
sleeve/female part of the chainring bolts). The wrench looks like a split flat head
screwdriver. If the 5mm allen bolts are AL, be very CAREFUL. Grease the bolts, no matter the
material, before assembly.

Richard Chan said:

You will also need the special wrench that prevents the chainring bolts from turning (the
sleeve/female part of the chainring bolts). The wrench looks like a split flat head screwdriver.
If the 5mm allen bolts are AL, be very CAREFUL. Grease the bolts, no matter the material, before
assembly.

I have never needed such a tool. It woud hav emade life easier but so far for me its not
been essential

MSeries said:

I have never needed such a tool. It woud hav emade life easier but so far for me its not been
essential

I think the tool costs about $2 and once you have one, you'll wonder why you didn't get long ago. I
think the Shimano one also has prongs to remove the dust caps and the cap of self extracting
crankarm bolt.

Richard Chan said:

You will also need the special wrench that prevents the chainring bolts from turning (the
sleeve/female part of the chainring bolts).

One of those can be useful to own but usually isn't needed, IME. It helps to keep the chainring and
outsides of the nuts clean and dry so they don't slip round (only grease the bolts). Even if the nut
does slip at first, it eventually grips if you keep on turning the bolt (while pressing firmly on
back of nut) which must disperse or dry up any external grease. It is possible to get the bolts very
tight without the special wrench.

I can't recommend the Shimano TL-FC20 double-ended tool -- grossly uncomfortable and barely engages.

~PB

On 12 Dec 2003 01:12:39 -0800, [email hidden] (vincent chiao) may

have said:

And, if I really ought to replace the other rings, would it be more worthwhile to just go to my LBS
or invest in whatever tool(s) I need to do it myself?

My opinions only; this is not a proclamation of The One True Way, if one even exists.

Buy the tools? Yes, in my experience; the lbs may not be open when the task needs to be done, for
one thing. Replace the other two rings now? Probably not. Preemptive replacement of a low-wear part
that has a negligible sudden failure risk (and is easily inspected) is only justified when other
work is being done in which there's a labor savings greater than the part cost if the replacement is
done concurrently...and even then, it's only justifiable if the part actually merits replacing at
all, or the replacement is better in some way than the old one. Rule Zero of maintenance and repair,
for me, is "Don't fix what isn't broken."

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Thanks guys. I guess I'll just leave things as they are (much easier for me, anyway...) Btw, I was
referring to the tool to pop the crank off--which I'd have to do to change the granny ring. The
middle and big rings were big enough to fit over the crank, but the granny is just too small. Thanks
again-- Vincent.

"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]-
berlin.de>...

Quoted message said:

Richard Chan said:

You will also need the special wrench that prevents the chainring bolts from turning (the
sleeve/female part of the chainring bolts).

One of those can be useful to own but usually isn't needed, IME. It helps to keep the chainring
and outsides of the nuts clean and dry so they don't slip round (only grease the bolts). Even if
the nut does slip at first, it eventually grips if you keep on turning the bolt (while pressing
firmly on back of nut) which must disperse or dry up any external grease. It is possible to get
the bolts very tight without the special wrench.

I can't recommend the Shimano TL-FC20 double-ended tool -- grossly uncomfortable and barely
engages.

~PB