Replacing Bike Handle bar tape

Wouldnt have a clue, cant imagine paying someone to do it. Its dead easy to DIY.

Kenzo said:

Anyone know the average a bike shop will charge to retape my handle bar, as
I want a proffesional job.

at a guess, $10 or so. It's [censored]-easy to do yourself though.

"Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

Kenzo said:

Anyone know the average a bike shop will charge to retape my handle bar,
as
I want a proffesional job.

at a guess, $10 or so. It's [censored]-easy to do yourself though.

I tried this once and after a short time the tape started slipping and
bunching. Any tips on how to avoid this and other problems?

Mark

I tried this once and after a short time the tape started slipping and
bunching. Any tips on how to avoid this and other problems?

Suspenders....

hmm might make you fall for your bike....or off it!

there are some good websites giving detailed explanations on how to do it - or pick a cycling buddy to show you the first time!

Much like everything else it gets better with time...

endroll said:

I tried this once and after a short time the tape started slipping and
bunching. Any tips on how to avoid this and other problems?

Suspenders....

hmm might make you fall for your bike....or off it!

there are some good websites giving detailed explanations on how to do it - or pick a cycling buddy to show you the first time!

Much like everything else it gets better with time...

this is a cut and paste from work - no time for typing but seems like reasoable explanation:

[left][font=Verdana]Handlebar tape comes in two flavors: adhesive and non-adhesive. With adhesive tape, generally made from cloth, you can install it pretty much any which-way, and it will work out. Non-adhesive is a bit trickier. Non-adhesive tape needs to be stretched as it is being installed. It's tendency to shrink after being stretched is what keeps it in place. But adhesive tape should be stretched as it is being installed also, to avoid wrinkles. Most brands of handlebar tape give you barely enough length, so be careful to avoid overlapping too much. Always watch the outside of curves on the handlebar, because this is where gaps in your taping pattern will show up. Tape is usually applied from the center of the handlebar, toward the ends. Stand in front of the bicycle, wrap over the top, from the seat toward yourself. This way, as your grip naturally twists the tape, it will help to keep it tight, rather than working to unravel the tape.[/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]Here is the official, step-by-step process for applying handlebar tape:[/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]1. Remove old tape and clean handlebar.[/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]2. Make sure brake levers are tight, and set at the same height as each other.[/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]3. Cut off approx 4 cm (1.5 inches) sections. In the case of handlebar tape that comes in two roll sets, cut off two of these sections from each roll. If you have adhesive tape, apply the pieces to the bottom of the sides of the brake levers, to cover the gap that would otherwise appear as the tape is wrapped around the sides of the brake levers. In the case of non-adhesive tape, set the four pieces aside for now.[/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]4. Stand in front of the bicycle, and wrap a turn around the handlebar near the stem (traditionally about 5 cm or a couple of inches from the handlebar stem). Wrap over the top of the handlebar from the seat, toward yourself. This direction is self-securing. As the rider's hands naturally twist the tape, it helps it stay tight in this direction. If it is non-adhesive tape, you need to pull it tight right away, so that as the tail of the tape is covered by this first turn, it won't slip off the handlebar. Or, you can put a bit of electrical tape on the end of the handlebar tape to hold it in position. The electrical tape will be covered by the first layer of handlebar tape.[/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]5. Start wrapping the tape, working your way slowly and carefully toward the brake lever. Be very careful to stretch the tape all the while, and to avoid too much overlap. The manufacturers generally give you JUST enough tape. As you are wrapping the tape, you should make a point of looking at the outside of curves of the handlebar. This is where gaps will occur, if you are not careful. Around the outside of curves, the tape should overlap by about 3 mm, or 1/8 inch.[/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]6. If you have non-adhesive tape, when you get to the brake levers, place two pieces that you cut off at the beginning along the sides of the brake lever to cover the bands, where a gap would otherwise appear. Continue wrapping the tape around the handlebar, to secure the sections in place. [/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]6a. You have an option. You can loop the tape once around the brake lever. Some people consider this a prettier way to do it, others don't. One slight advantage is that if a brake lever mounting should ever break off while you are riding, and that has been known to happen, then the extra loop of tape will probably hold it in place. The lever will become loose, but won't fall off. This can make a big difference when pulling hard up a hill. [/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]7. Continue past the brake levers, making sure that you are still stretching, and watching overlap around the outside of curves. [/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]8. As you come to the end of the handlebar, pull the tape hard and it will almost curve into the end of the handlebar. Cut the tape off, leaving about 5 cm (2 inches). Tuck this tail into the handlebar, and install the handlebar plug.[/font]
[/left]
[left][font=Verdana]9. Repeat on the other side.[/font][/left]
[left] [/left]
[left] [/left]
[left] [/left]
[left]bikewebsite.comgriptape.htmOpen ↗[/left]

"Mark Wassell" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

"Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

Kenzo said:

Anyone know the average a bike shop will charge to retape my handle bar,
as
I want a proffesional job.

at a guess, $10 or so. It's [censored]-easy to do yourself though.

I tried this once and after a short time the tape started slipping and
bunching. Any tips on how to avoid this and other problems?

Mark

Stretch the tape as you put it on. Watch your overlap.

endroll said:

this is a cut and paste from work - no time for typing but seems like
reasoable explanation:

<snippage>

Quoted message said:

::*4. Stand in front of the bicycle, and wrap a turn around the
handlebar near the stem (traditionally about 5 cm or a couple of inches
from the handlebar stem). Wrap over the top of the handlebar from the
seat, toward yourself. This direction is self-securing.

<more snippage>

I used to do it this way. My current bike has the tape starting from
the ends and finishing in the centre near the stem. IMO this is a *far*
better idea. Why? Because you don't have to remove *all* the tape when
you...
....want/need to replace the brake cables.
....want to fit aero bars for an ITT and need to use the smaller diameter
section just under the inner edge of the tape. (I had to do this on the
weekend!)

Of course, I'm sure the bike shop were also glad they did it this way
when I bought it cause I asked them to swap the brake cables over so the
front brake was on the right. The merits of which is a discussion for
another thread.

Cheers

--
BrettS

endroll" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

endroll Wrote:

.... Tape is usually applied from the center of the handlebar, toward the

ends.......

Quoted message said:

I have always done mine starting at the ends of the bars. This was due to
advice from a cycling mate of mine many years ago. If you start from the
end of the bars, when you get to the section just above the brake hoods
where your hands are most of the time, the tape ends up being more durable
due to how it is aligned. You need to run your hand up and down the bars a
couple of times to appreciate this but it is because the overlapped bits
will not lift up and peel back due to the "forwards" pressure that you apply
when on the brake hoods where you generally spend most of your time. A tape
started in the centre of the bars will have more tendancy to peel up on the
upper section of the bars.

My 2 cents worth.

Gags

"Gags" <gags_44nospamatnospamtpg.com.au> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

endroll" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

endroll Wrote:

.... Tape is usually applied from the center of the handlebar, toward the

ends.......

Quoted message said:

I have always done mine starting at the ends of the bars. This was due to
advice from a cycling mate of mine many years ago. If you start from the
end of the bars, when you get to the section just above the brake hoods
where your hands are most of the time, the tape ends up being more durable
due to how it is aligned. You need to run your hand up and down the bars
a
couple of times to appreciate this but it is because the overlapped bits
will not lift up and peel back due to the "forwards" pressure that you
apply
when on the brake hoods where you generally spend most of your time. A
tape
started in the centre of the bars will have more tendancy to peel up on
the
upper section of the bars.

My 2 cents worth.

Gags

Ah, a good point. I was starting from the centre because it lets the tape
self retain in the middle of the bars and you can let the barplugs hold it
at the ens where if you start at the ends, you have to do something to
retain the bar tape in the middle of the bars. I'd noticed that the area
around the brake hood on the fixie was looking ratty.