Replacement for CatEye HL-500II

M. Chandler said:

My current headlight is a CatEye HL-500II with a 6 watt bulb. I'm
looking for something more powerful (i.e., brighter) with a
whiter-colored beam. Ride time is 30-60 minutes, 2-4x a week, with
temps in the 30's (f).

I'm using a CatEye HL-EL400 (3 LED) flasher as a "be seen"/"get
attention" light, so a single-lamp system would probably be adequate
for my needs. The NightHawk Raptor 10 watt system
<http://tinyurl.com/6ufzl>, mentioned in another recent
lighting-related thread, looks like a good deal. FWIW, I ride a
recumbent (LWB), so my mounting options are somewhat limited. Any
comments pro or con? Any others to consider?

One thing to consider is the battery. You'll get more power for longer out of a
NiMH or nicad than a lead-acid, which tend to dim more as they drain. Other
than that, most 10W MR11 systems will perform similarly. The only way to get
significantly more light is to raise the wattage -- which you can do by using a
15-20W bulb. You really can't drive more than 10W with a lead-acid battery, so
if you want more wattage, go for the NiMH/nicad. I know they sell higher
wattage systems with lead-acid batteries, but they shouldn't. With the more
robust battery, you'll still get at least an hour out of the brighter lamp.

Of course, all this costs more money -- and for the money, the Nite Hawk Raptor
is hard to beat. I have one on the way myself, rather than fool with building
new battery packs for the stuff I already have. Instant gratification!

FWIW, if you're looking at some others, I really like the beam patterns, the
lamp heads, and the mounts for the original Performance Viewpoint systems.

Matt O.

How much is weight an issue? I have been happy with a homemade 20W light
with a SLA battery. It's heavy compared to a Ni metal set up, but it's cheap
and puts out a lot of light. I have 2 commercial systems, a 10W planet bike,
and a older 32W Nite Rider, and I think the homemade set up is a viable
option. Here's a link from DORBA on how to make one.
http://www.dorba.org/scrapbook/earls_light/

Depending on what you ability and what you may already have (charger, wire,
switch, etc) they can be built cheap.

Also I have heard a few good things about

http://www.bicyclelights.com/

But have not tried them.

Regarding options for mounting, you can use 2 hose clamps, or modify a
reflector mount, or use a helmet mount for the light. I'm not sure where on
a LWB you could stash the battery, but I'm sure it could be done.

- Scott

"M. Chandler" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

My current headlight is a CatEye HL-500II with a 6 watt bulb. I'm looking
for something more powerful (i.e., brighter) with a whiter-colored beam.
Ride time is 30-60 minutes, 2-4x a week, with temps in the 30's (f).

I'm using a CatEye HL-EL400 (3 LED) flasher as a "be seen"/"get attention"
light, so a single-lamp system would probably be adequate for my needs.
The NightHawk Raptor 10 watt system <http://tinyurl.com/6ufzl>, mentioned
in another recent lighting-related thread, looks like a good deal. FWIW,
I ride a recumbent (LWB), so my mounting options are somewhat limited.
Any comments pro or con? Any others to consider?

--
Mark Chandler
Superior, CO
http://www.MileHighSkates.com

Matt O'Toole said:

M. Chandler said:

My current headlight is a CatEye HL-500II with a 6 watt bulb. I'm
looking for something more powerful (i.e., brighter) with a
whiter-colored beam. Ride time is 30-60 minutes, 2-4x a week, with
temps in the 30's (f).

I'm using a CatEye HL-EL400 (3 LED) flasher as a "be seen"/"get
attention" light, so a single-lamp system would probably be adequate
for my needs. The NightHawk Raptor 10 watt system
<http://tinyurl.com/6ufzl>, mentioned in another recent
lighting-related thread, looks like a good deal. FWIW, I ride a
recumbent (LWB), so my mounting options are somewhat limited. Any
comments pro or con? Any others to consider?

One thing to consider is the battery. You'll get more power for longer out of a
NiMH or nicad than a lead-acid, which tend to dim more as they drain. Other
than that, most 10W MR11 systems will perform similarly. The only way to get
significantly more light is to raise the wattage -- which you can do by using a
15-20W bulb. You really can't drive more than 10W with a lead-acid battery, so
if you want more wattage, go for the NiMH/nicad. I know they sell higher
wattage systems with lead-acid batteries, but they shouldn't. With the more
robust battery, you'll still get at least an hour out of the brighter lamp.

I think that 10W will be sufficient. Your suggestion about NiMH/nicad
is appreciated. I'd definitely prefer a system that wouldn't dim as the
battery drains. Time to check around and see if anyone has good deals
on 10W/NiMH combo's.

Thanks for the info/suggestions.

--mc

--
Mark Chandler
Superior, CO
http://www.MileHighSkates.com

M. Chandler said:

My current headlight is a CatEye HL-500II with a 6 watt bulb. I'm
looking for something more powerful (i.e., brighter) with a
whiter-colored beam. Ride time is 30-60 minutes, 2-4x a week, with
temps in the 30's (f).

I'm using a CatEye HL-EL400 (3 LED) flasher as a "be seen"/"get
attention" light, so a single-lamp system would probably be adequate for
my needs. The NightHawk Raptor 10 watt system
<http://tinyurl.com/6ufzl>, mentioned in another recent lighting-related
thread, looks like a good deal. FWIW, I ride a recumbent (LWB), so my
mounting options are somewhat limited. Any comments pro or con? Any
others to consider?

Topeak Moonshine 3H Headlight

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=101&subcategory=1067&brand=&sku=12547&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

20watt halogen lamp to light up any course. An 8-byte RISC processor
adjusts power output through 4 levels of brightness
on/off--6W--10W--20W (LED indicates level); power reserve provides
30min of additional burntime at 6watts. Accessories include a remote
on/off switch and a stem mount 14.4 V 2000mAh Lithium Ion battery.
Weight: 350g

Reg $229.95
now $99.95

You may even be able to get an additional discount:

Coupon Code for Nashbar: 68132

20% off any order of $75 or more

Joe Faust said:

M. Chandler said:

My current headlight is a CatEye HL-500II with a 6 watt bulb. I'm
looking for something more powerful (i.e., brighter) with a
whiter-colored beam. Ride time is 30-60 minutes, 2-4x a week, with
temps in the 30's (f).

I'm using a CatEye HL-EL400 (3 LED) flasher as a "be seen"/"get
attention" light, so a single-lamp system would probably be adequate for
my needs. The NightHawk Raptor 10 watt system
<http://tinyurl.com/6ufzl>, mentioned in another recent lighting-related
thread, looks like a good deal. FWIW, I ride a recumbent (LWB), so my
mounting options are somewhat limited. Any comments pro or con? Any
others to consider?

Topeak Moonshine 3H Headlight

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=101&subcategory=1067&brand=&sku=12547&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

20watt halogen lamp to light up any course. An 8-byte RISC processor
adjusts power output through 4 levels of brightness
on/off--6W--10W--20W (LED indicates level); power reserve provides
30min of additional burntime at 6watts. Accessories include a remote
on/off switch and a stem mount 14.4 V 2000mAh Lithium Ion battery.
Weight: 350g

Reg $229.95
now $99.95

You may even be able to get an additional discount:

Coupon Code for Nashbar: 68132

20% off any order of $75 or more

Cool. I wonder how long the cord is from the battery pack to the
lamp/mount. Mounting it on a recumbent could be a tad tricky.

--
Mark Chandler
Superior, CO
http://www.MileHighSkates.com

"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

<cut>

You really can't drive more than 10W with a lead-acid battery, so

Quoted message said:

if you want more wattage, go for the NiMH/nicad. I know they sell higher
wattage systems with lead-acid batteries, but they shouldn't. With the more
robust battery, you'll still get at least an hour out of the brighter lamp.

Matt O.

This goes against evertyhing I know about batteries. Sealed lead acid
batteries are the most robust and tolerant rechargeable batteries out.
Lead acids can deliver large currents (witness car starter motors),
survive complete discharge and overcharging. In all respects but
weight they are most suitable for cycle use.

Please say what leads you to believe that lead acid batteries are not
robust or why they "shouldn't" deliver more than 10W.

Andrew Webster

Andrew Webster said:

"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

You really can't drive more than 10W with a lead-acid battery, so

Quoted message said:

if you want more wattage, go for the NiMH/nicad. I know they sell
higher wattage systems with lead-acid batteries, but they shouldn't.
With the more robust battery, you'll still get at least an hour out
of the brighter lamp.

Quoted message said:

This goes against evertyhing I know about batteries. Sealed lead acid
batteries are the most robust

If this were the case, SLA would be used for cordless power tools. Trust me,
there are a lot more drywallers out there buying screw guns than there are
mountain bikers buying Nightriders. In fact the huge and very competitive
market for cordless power tools is what drives battery technology in this
size/output range. As laptop batteries grow in capacity, we'll see more and
more Li-ion being used for bike lights.

Quoted message said:

and tolerant rechargeable batteries out.

Tolerant of what? To begin with, they last only a few hundred cycles under
optimum conditions. They're very easily damaged by deep discharge or
overcharging. Their saving grace is their low price.

Quoted message said:

Lead acids can deliver large currents (witness car starter motors),
survive complete discharge and overcharging. In all respects but
weight they are most suitable for cycle use.

Quoted message said:

Please say what leads you to believe that lead acid batteries are not
robust or why they "shouldn't" deliver more than 10W.

Read the specs of some of the *acutal* SLA batteries used for bike lights, vs.
the NiMH and nicad. The SLA are usually rated at C/20, and their performance
drops off quickly at currents greater than that. Special SLA cells such as
Cyclons can deliver high currents, but these are more expensive than nicad/NiMH
and even heavier than the typical gel cells, so no one bothers with them anymore
(for bike lights).

Matt O.

On Fri, 5 Nov 2004 15:46:43 -0500, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Andrew Webster said:

Lead acids can deliver large currents (witness car starter motors),
survive complete discharge and overcharging. In all respects but
weight they are most suitable for cycle use.

Quoted message said:

Please say what leads you to believe that lead acid batteries are not
robust or why they "shouldn't" deliver more than 10W.

Read the specs of some of the *acutal* SLA batteries used for bike lights, vs.
the NiMH and nicad. The SLA are usually rated at C/20, and their performance
drops off quickly at currents greater than that. Special SLA cells such as
Cyclons can deliver high currents, but these are more expensive than nicad/NiMH
and even heavier than the typical gel cells, so no one bothers with them anymore
(for bike lights).

As stated to me by an engineer from Johnson Controls (one of the
larger manufacturers of lead-acid automotive batteries), the single
and only reason that NiMH and Li-ion batteries aren't used in
automotive applications is their cost. Making a lead-acid battery
that's good enough for use in an automobile is *cheap*. And, as too
many fishermen have discovered over the years, lead-acid batteries
aren't all that durable in deep-cycle uses, even when their design is
tweaked to maximize their life in that application.

--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Werehatrack said:

On Fri, 5 Nov 2004 15:46:43 -0500, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Andrew Webster said:

Lead acids can deliver large currents (witness car starter motors),
survive complete discharge and overcharging. In all respects but
weight they are most suitable for cycle use.

Quoted message said:

Please say what leads you to believe that lead acid batteries are
not robust or why they "shouldn't" deliver more than 10W.

Read the specs of some of the *acutal* SLA batteries used for bike
lights, vs. the NiMH and nicad. The SLA are usually rated at C/20,
and their performance drops off quickly at currents greater than
that. Special SLA cells such as Cyclons can deliver high currents,
but these are more expensive than nicad/NiMH and even heavier than
the typical gel cells, so no one bothers with them anymore (for bike
lights).

As stated to me by an engineer from Johnson Controls (one of the
larger manufacturers of lead-acid automotive batteries), the single
and only reason that NiMH and Li-ion batteries aren't used in
automotive applications is their cost.

This is true, but the situation is changing. Hybrid cars are becoming more
popular, and will probably dominate the mainstream within 10 years. Rising
shipping costs will take their toll on lead-acid use too.

Quoted message said:

Making a lead-acid battery
that's good enough for use in an automobile is *cheap*. And, as too
many fishermen have discovered over the years, lead-acid batteries
aren't all that durable in deep-cycle uses, even when their design is
tweaked to maximize their life in that application.

True again. However, automobile use isn't really deep cycle, unless you like to
park with your stereo blasting. As you mention, car batteries don't work well
for deep cycle use. This is why you should get proper deep-cycle house
batteries for your boat, and not try to get by on a car battery, or a cheap,
"dual purpose" one.

Matt O.

On Fri, 5 Nov 2004 19:33:16 -0500, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Werehatrack said:

On Fri, 5 Nov 2004 15:46:43 -0500, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>
wrote:

As stated to me by an engineer from Johnson Controls (one of the
larger manufacturers of lead-acid automotive batteries), the single
and only reason that NiMH and Li-ion batteries aren't used in
automotive applications is their cost.

This is true, but the situation is changing. Hybrid cars are becoming more
popular, and will probably dominate the mainstream within 10 years. Rising
shipping costs will take their toll on lead-acid use too.

There's a third factor involved which has given the lead-acid battery
a certain additional amount of inertia as well; disposing of lead
waste is expensive, and the cheapest way to do it at the moment is by
recycling it into the battery materials feed stream. In some cases,
the lead consuming industries are effectively getting a part of their
raw material at a negative cost.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Making a lead-acid battery
that's good enough for use in an automobile is *cheap*. And, as too
many fishermen have discovered over the years, lead-acid batteries
aren't all that durable in deep-cycle uses, even when their design is
tweaked to maximize their life in that application.

True again. However, automobile use isn't really deep cycle, unless you like to
park with your stereo blasting. As you mention, car batteries don't work well
for deep cycle use. This is why you should get proper deep-cycle house
batteries for your boat, and not try to get by on a car battery, or a cheap,
"dual purpose" one.

I started seeing ads for large-scale NiMH battery packs suitable for
powering a trolling motor a while back, but the price hasn't dropped
to the point where the casual fisherman is likely to buy one.
Professional guides, on the other hand, might actually save money with
them because of the much longer service life. Cave divers have been
using large-scale NiCd and NiMH battery packs for a long time; there,
the cost is not viewed as a drawback.

--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

"Mark Chandler" <[email hidden]> skrev i en meddelelse
news:[email hidden]...
:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

My current headlight is a CatEye HL-500II with a 6 watt bulb. I'm
looking for something more powerful (i.e., brighter) with a
whiter-colored beam. Ride time is 30-60 minutes, 2-4x a week, with
temps in the 30's (f).

IMHO you already have the best battery headlight on the market, considering
the weight/light-ratio,. The best way to improve it, is to get two
CatEye-500IIs.
It makes a difference to use the best batteries and to keep them top tuned.
I have Ni-MH in the 2000 m/Ah version - it stays bright longer - and I have
an intelligent battery charger. Without this I find it impossible to keep
the rechargeable batteries in shape. I have four Cateye 500II's, so it is
easy for me to substitute - and thus I can start on fully loaded battteries
every day.
Recently I converted though. I bought a dynohub from Schmidt
Maschienengebau for my every day commuting bike. It has a reputation as the
best (but the newest Shimano dynohub is said to be almost as good, and
somewhat cheaper). My new home build frontwheel with the dynohub plus the
lamp cost me about 300 dollars, which IS a considerable part of my spending
money. But since I do nightriding from October to March five mornings and
five nights a week, I will soon be making a profit on that investment. The
dynohub supplies me with the equivalent of two CatEye-500-IIs. Still I
carry an extra CatEye 500II so I can project extra light on the close
roadside when headlights from approching cars are blinding me.

Regards
Ivar Hesselager
Of The Dark Cold Nodic Winter

"Ivar Hesselager" <[email hidden]> wrote:

<stuff about bike lights>

Quoted message said:

Ivar Hesselager
Of The Dark Cold Nodic Winter

Yes, I know winter can be cold where you live, but would it not be
prudent to insulate the crotch area more adequately? "nodic" sounds
*really* cold. . .

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> My current headlight is a CatEye HL-500II with a 6 watt
> bulb. I'm looking for something more powerful (i.e.,
> brighter) with a whiter-colored beam.

IMHO you already have the best battery headlight on the
market, considering the weight/light-ratio,. The best way
to improve it, is to get two CatEye-500IIs.

That's what my wife uses, and it gives her a good amount of light from
such a small portion of her narrow handlebar space. I'm using a pair of
Sigma Sport Ellipsoids [also with aftermarket bulbs] that I like better,
mainly because of the ease of recharging: just plug 'em in!

--
"Bicycling is a healthy and manly pursuit with much
to recommend it, and, unlike other foolish crazes,
it has not died out." -- The Daily Telegraph (1877)

LioNiNoiL_a t_Y a h 0 0_d 0 t_c 0 m said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> My current headlight is a CatEye HL-500II with a 6 watt
>> bulb. I'm looking for something more powerful (i.e.,
>> brighter) with a whiter-colored beam.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

IMHO you already have the best battery headlight on the
market, considering the weight/light-ratio,. The best way
to improve it, is to get two CatEye-500IIs.

Quoted message said:

That's what my wife uses, and it gives her a good amount of light from
such a small portion of her narrow handlebar space. I'm using a pair
of Sigma Sport Ellipsoids [also with aftermarket bulbs] that I like
better, mainly because of the ease of recharging: just plug 'em in!

Lately I was reading Peter White's website (www.peterwhitecycles.com). Among
the lights he sells, he seems to prefer the Busch & Muller Freelite D to the
similar Cateye 500-II Micro.

Matt O.

Matt O'Toole said:

LioNiNoiL_a t_Y a h 0 0_d 0 t_c 0 m said:

Quoted message said:

>>>My current headlight is a CatEye HL-500II with a 6 watt
>>>bulb. I'm looking for something more powerful (i.e.,
>>>brighter) with a whiter-colored beam.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

IMHO you already have the best battery headlight on the
market, considering the weight/light-ratio,. The best way
to improve it, is to get two CatEye-500IIs.

I have two, and to be honest, they don't seem to put out enough light.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

That's what my wife uses, and it gives her a good amount of light from
such a small portion of her narrow handlebar space. I'm using a pair
of Sigma Sport Ellipsoids [also with aftermarket bulbs] that I like
better, mainly because of the ease of recharging: just plug 'em in!

Lately I was reading Peter White's website (www.peterwhitecycles.com). Among
the lights he sells, he seems to prefer the Busch & Muller Freelite D to the
similar Cateye 500-II Micro.

I picked up a NiteRider Trail Rat 2.0 this weekend. While the beam
isn't as focused as my CatEye HL-500II's, the single-bulb NiteRider puts
out a lot more light. The beam's extra width is definitely a plus on
winding, unlit paths.

--
Mark Chandler
Superior, CO
http://www.MileHighSkates.com