Replacement for 48 tooth chain gear?

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I run an American Electra Cruiser bike (not electric) for commuting
and exercise with comfort - the cruiser handlebar suits an arm
injury. My chain gear got a small visible bend, noticed when looking
at why a new chain was coming off. My local bike repair guy (Glasgow
area) says he can't supply a 48 tooth chain gear, he has straightened
it to get me back on the road, he could put on a 44 tooth instead. I
would prefer a replacement to using the bent/de-bent gear.

So, advice, please? Can I obtain the original part? Perhaps from the
dealer who sold me the bike? Is it likely to be priced above casual-
rider budget? (I'm pretty well off but I'm not a sucker.) If I did
take a 44 tooth then I'd be working slightly harder on any given hill,
right? But perhaps improve my top speed a little?

With a 44 tooth chain raing you'd find hills a lot easier to cope with.
Pedalling will be easier not harder.
The cost should not be that much £10 or thereabouts plus fitting.

HTH

Vernon

Quoted message said:

I run an American Electra Cruiser bike (not electric) for commuting
and exercise with comfort - the cruiser handlebar suits an arm
injury. My chain gear got a small visible bend, noticed when looking
at why a new chain was coming off. My local bike repair guy (Glasgow
area) says he can't supply a 48 tooth chain gear, he has straightened
it to get me back on the road, he could put on a 44 tooth instead. I
would prefer a replacement to using the bent/de-bent gear.

So, advice, please? Can I obtain the original part? Perhaps from the
dealer who sold me the bike? Is it likely to be priced above casual-
rider budget? (I'm pretty well off but I'm not a sucker.) If I did
take a 44 tooth then I'd be working slightly harder on any given hill,
right? But perhaps improve my top speed a little?

44T front is a lower gear than 48T front, so you will be slower top speed
and a little easier uphill.

Two ways to get a 48T.

1) New Ring:

Most chainring sizes are available, but you need to know the number of bolt
holes (typically 4 or 5) and the pitch circle diameter (the diameter of an
imaginary circle drawn through each of the bolts.

With that information, find a dealer who carries TA or Stronglight rings (if
stuck, Spa Cycles, Harrogate Yorkshire do mail order and know about TA and
Stronglight rings), and assuming the PCD is a common one, you will be able
to get the ring. Price circa £20. Don't be surprised at a slight wait if
the rings are not instock, the main UK importer of TA stuff suffered a big
warehouse fire the other week and there are probably delays shipping stock
to shops.

2) New crank set.

48T is a completely standard size for cranksets, so unless the bottom
bracket is a wacky size ( you need someone to check that), a new crankset
would do the job. Also check that the crank throw is normal (170mm is
standard). Stronglight make a 48/38 double which would do the job for £20
at Spa Cycles- just remove the unnecessary 38T if not required. Check your
bottom bracket is suitable before ordering.

Suspect Ben at Kinetics (a bike shop) in Glasgow could help you out.

- Nigel

--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

"Nigel Cliffe" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

Quoted message said:

Two ways to get a 48T.

[snip]

Cruiser bikes usually use 1-piece (Ashtabula - BMX style) cranks:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Original/10545.jpg

BMX is the biggest market for these rings in the UK, and 48t is big for a
BMX. Profile make their Whippit ring in 48t:

http://www.profileracing.com/products_home.php?productid=11

It's pricey, and there may be cheaper options, but it's not something I know
much about.

Electra UK distributors are:

MTB Distribution
4 Bush House Cottages
Milton Bridge Penicuik
EH26 0BA, UK

Tel: 0044-131-445-2600
Fax: 0044-131-445-2682

E-mail: [email hidden]

They might be a source of spares or information.

James Thomson

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

I run an American Electra Cruiser bike (not electric) for commuting
and exercise with comfort - the cruiser handlebar suits an arm
injury. My chain gear got a small visible bend, noticed when looking
at why a new chain was coming off. My local bike repair guy (Glasgow
area) says he can't supply a 48 tooth chain gear, he has straightened
it to get me back on the road, he could put on a 44 tooth instead. I
would prefer a replacement to using the bent/de-bent gear.

So, advice, please? Can I obtain the original part? Perhaps from the
dealer who sold me the bike? Is it likely to be priced above casual-
rider budget? (I'm pretty well off but I'm not a sucker.) If I did
take a 44 tooth then I'd be working slightly harder on any given hill,
right? But perhaps improve my top speed a little?

44T is a lower (easier) gear than 48T. If you want to keep about the
same gearing you could fit a 44T front and fit a rear sprocket with a
couple teeth fewer.
Assuming it's a steel chainring you may well find there's no problem
with the existing one anyway if it's fairly straight now.

James Thomson said:

"Nigel Cliffe" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

Quoted message said:

Two ways to get a 48T.

[snip]

Cruiser bikes usually use 1-piece (Ashtabula - BMX style) cranks:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Original/10545.jpg

BMX is the biggest market for these rings in the UK, and 48t is big for a
BMX. Profile make their Whippit ring in 48t:

http://www.profileracing.com/products_home.php?productid=11

It's pricey, and there may be cheaper options, but it's not something I know
much about.

Electra UK distributors are:

MTB Distribution
4 Bush House Cottages
Milton Bridge Penicuik
EH26 0BA, UK

Tel: 0044-131-445-2600
Fax: 0044-131-445-2682

E-mail: [email hidden]

They might be a source of spares or information.

Thanks for all advice so far. Out of the blue I've been struck down
with back / shoulder pain, so the bike is still in the shop. I'm not
sure if it matters that a particular design of crank is used, as long
as it turns. Getting the effect of the possible size change back to
front is embarrassing - the shop guy agreed with me on that but maybe
to be polite, or else we were misunderstanding each other - so I think
that would be a mistake, unless I do change front and back together.

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

I'm not
sure if it matters that a particular design of crank is used, as long
as it turns.

If you've got an Ashtabula crank then nothing else is a direct
replacement, as the bottom bracket shell (the bit of the frame that the
bearings fit in) is larger than with other crank types, and the bearings
are a press fit rather than threaded.