removing cups from schwinn frame and forks

Gigi said:

Hello all. I am starting to restore a 60's era Schwinn middleweight type frame. I am trying to
remove the bearing cups from both the forks and bottom bracket. I would also like to remove the
chrome crown from the forks. So far I have not had any luck dislodging the cups or the crown and
thought I might try torching the areas with a propane torch to break the seal of time. Any
hints? Thanks!

Removal of the bottom bracket cups is done with a lockring spanner and a pin spanner on the LH side
- or if you're not re-using them, a hammer and punch to remove the lockring will do, and the
adjustable cup can usually then be unscrewed by hand. The right-hand fixed cup is preferably
unscrewed using the spanner designed for the job, but failing this, a large bolt and a nut will work
- see sheldonbrown.combbcups.htmlOpen ↗

At a pinch, the headset races can be gently tapped out with a hammer and a sharp-edged drift. A
piece of spare plumbing pipe does the job - stainless steel works better than copper as it's quite
hard. If the races are valuable and intended for re-use, you should probably get the LBS to knock
them out using the correct rocket tool.

I would always get decent races refitted using correct tools. Only if the bike is a real clunker
and the races are indestructible steel should you consider whacking them in with a hammer and a
block of wood ;-)

I don't believe heat should be required - these parts are designed to be tight and do need "special
methods" to remove them.

"Zog The Undeniable" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Gigi said:

Hello all. I am starting to restore a 60's era Schwinn middleweight type frame. I am trying to
remove the bearing cups from both the forks and bottom bracket. I would also like to remove the
chrome crown from the forks. So far I have not had any luck dislodging the cups or the crown and
thought I might try torching the areas with a propane torch to break the seal of time. Any
hints? Thanks!

Removal of the bottom bracket cups is done with a lockring spanner and a pin spanner on
the LH side

"60's era Schwinn middleweight type frame" = one-piece Ashtabula cranks.

Andy ("wish I still had my Sting-Ray"😉 Coggan

Gigi said:

Hello all. I am starting to restore a 60's era Schwinn middleweight type frame. I am trying to
remove the bearing cups from both the forks and bottom bracket. I would also like to remove the
chrome crown from the forks. So far I have not had any luck dislodging the cups or the crown and
thought I might try torching the areas with a propane torch to break the seal of time. Any
hints? Thanks!

Heat is not necessary. Smack the cups with a firm blow, using a punch. The crown race similarly. If
there is not clearance behind it, strike the space between the race and the crown with a cold chisel
front and back.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

(Gigi) may have said:

Hello all. I am starting to restore a 60's era Schwinn middleweight type frame. I am trying to
remove the bearing cups from both the forks and bottom bracket. I would also like to remove the
chrome crown from the forks. So far I have not had any luck dislodging the cups or the crown and
thought I might try torching the areas with a propane torch to break the seal of time. Any
hints? Thanks!

To remove the cups, I find that a slide hammer with internally expanding jaws works well. I'm not
sure if the one that can be borrowed from Autozone stores will work on those cups, but it might be
worth a try. Heating the frame enough to break the cups loose is likely to heat the cups enough to
change their hardness in a manner that would not be desirable. If you're replacing them anyway, of
course, this is not a major consideration. The heat's going to scorch the paint, but presumably
you're going to repaint anyway. The other potential hazard is that a propane torch's heat can be
enough to desolder the frame joint. If it were me, I'd try all available cold removal methods first.

To get the cups and cones off when they're badly stuck, if the object is merely to remove and not to
salvage for re-use, a Dremel can be used to grind away a place on the part until it's paper-thin, at
which point one blow with a hammer and chisel will break the part and relieve the grip that it has
on its mounting location.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

"Andy Coggan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

[snip]

Quoted message said:

"60's era Schwinn middleweight type frame" = one-piece Ashtabula cranks.

Andy ("wish I still had my Sting-Ray"😉 Coggan

Dear Andy,

Enlarge and ogle the pictures and enjoy the nostalgia:

cgi.ebay.comeBayISAPI.dllOpen ↗

Then save hundreds of dollars by not bidding, and go have a good time on whatever you ride now.

Merry Christmas,

Carl Fogel

On 23 Jan 2004 22:43:17 -0800, [email hidden] (Carl Fogel)

Quoted message said:

Enlarge and ogle the pictures and enjoy the nostalgia:

cgi.ebay.comeBayISAPI.dllOpen ↗

I love the shifter. I wonder if I can set up a shifter like that on a modern bike...
--
Rick Onanian