Removing Blue Loctite

On Mon, 31 May 2004 14:53:06 -0700, Dave

may have said:

Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve blue
loctite? I want to clean up the threads on a couple Al
parts, and don't want to use steel wool, or anything really
abrasive on the Al parts.

Would a chain biodegreaser work?

Most types of Loctite are forms of cyanoacrylate glue with a
mix of fillers and setup time modifiers. In most cases, you
can use a superglue remover to get it off. (Acetone
sometimes works, and is often sold as superglue remover.)

Degreasers are unlikely to have any effect in my experience.

Gasket removal and paint removal compounds, on the other
hand, are likely to work.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via
e-mail. Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature. Words
processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Acetone will take that right off.

"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news😄RNuc.797$0A.7307@localhost...

Quoted message said:

Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve blue
loctite? I

want

Quoted message said:

to clean up the threads on a couple Al parts, and don't
want to use steel wool, or anything really abrasive on the
Al parts.

Would a chain biodegreaser work?

Many thanks, Dave

Quoted message said:

"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote...

Quoted message said:

Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve
blue loctite? I want to clean up the threads on a couple
Al parts, and don't want to use steel wool, or anything
really abrasive on the Al parts.

Would a chain biodegreaser work?

Acetone will take that right off.

Hmmm. How, exactly, are you defining "safe?"

jtbaker.comA0446.htmOpen ↗

--
Benjamin Lewis

I regret to say that we of the FBI are powerless to act in
cases of oral-genital intimacy, unless it has in some way
obstructed interstate commerce. -- J. Edgar Hoover

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Benjamin Lewis

B said:

"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote...

Quoted message said:

Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve
blue loctite? I want to clean up the threads on a couple
Al parts, and don't want to use steel wool, or anything
really abrasive on the Al parts.

Would a chain biodegreaser work?

Acetone will take that right off.

Hmmm. How, exactly, are you defining "safe?"

jtbaker.comA0446.htmOpen ↗

--
Benjamin Lewis

I regret to say that we of the FBI are powerless to act in
cases of oral-genital intimacy, unless it has in some way
obstructed interstate commerce. -- J. Edgar Hoover [/B]

Safer than methylene chloride AKA dichloromethane. I think the original poster was considering the safety of the aluminum parts so something like sodium hydroxide solutions would be definitely OUT (NaOH dissolves Al).

Whatever you do, don't heat the parts. Aluminum temper is destroyed by the heat necessary to remove thread lockers.

Weisse Luft said:

Benjamin Lewis said:

Hmmm. How, exactly, are you defining "safe?"
jtbaker.comA0446.htmOpen ↗

Safer than methylene chloride AKA dichloromethane. I think
the original poster was considering the safety of the
aluminum parts so something like sodium hydroxide
solutions would be definitely OUT (NaOH dissolves Al).

Okay, but in my opinion any characterization of acetone as
"safe" should come with some sort of disclaimer 🙂 It's
nasty stuff.

--
Benjamin Lewis

Hey! I'm only fourteen, sickly 'n' thin Tried all of my life
just to grow me a chin It popped out once, but my dad pushed
it in. -- FZ

Benjamin Lewis said:

Quoted message said:

"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote...

Quoted message said:

Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve
blue loctite? I want to clean up the threads on a
couple Al parts, and don't want to use steel wool, or
anything really abrasive on the Al parts.

Would a chain biodegreaser work?

Acetone will take that right off.

Hmmm. How, exactly, are you defining "safe?"

jtbaker.comA0446.htmOpen ↗

Safe enough to be used as the principal component of a
product designed to be applied directly to the human body on
a regular basis, like nail-polish remover?

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Benjamin Lewis
[B:

Quoted message said:

Okay, but in my opinion any characterization of acetone as

"safe" should come with some sort of disclaimer 🙂 It's
nasty stuff.

--
Benjamin Lewis

Hey! I'm only fourteen, sickly 'n' thin Tried all of my life
just to grow me a chin It popped out once, but my dad pushed
it in. -- FZ [/B]

Acetone is not nasty stuff...the human body can metabolize small amounts safely. Unless you take a bath in it, its not a problem. Diabetics are another story since ketosis generates ketones, of which one is acetone. People without diabeties also generate ketones but to a much less extent.

Here's another dangerous compound you should be aware of:
dhmo.orgdhmo.orgOpen ↗ There's an entire campaign to try and
ban it. Important stuff!

"Benjamin Lewis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

"Dave" <[email hidden]> wrote...

Quoted message said:

Is there a common and safe solvenet that will disolve
blue loctite? I want to clean up the threads on a
couple Al parts, and don't want to

use

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

steel wool, or anything really abrasive on the Al
parts.

Would a chain biodegreaser work?

Acetone will take that right off.

Hmmm. How, exactly, are you defining "safe?"

jtbaker.comA0446.htmOpen ↗

--
Benjamin Lewis

I regret to say that we of the FBI are powerless to act in
cases of oral-genital intimacy, unless it has in some way
obstructed interstate commerce. -- J. Edgar Hoover

Quoted message said:

Here's another dangerous compound you should be aware of:
dhmo.orgdhmo.orgOpen ↗ There's an entire campaign to try and
ban it. Important stuff!

Dihydrogen monoxide? Well, sure. It's directly responsive
for the deaths of over 3000 people a year in the US alone!

poseidon-tech.comstatistics.htmlOpen ↗

--
Benjamin Lewis

Evelyn the dog, having undergone further modification,
pondered the significance of short-person behavior in pedal-
depressed panchromatic resonance and other highly ambient
domains... "Arf", she said.

nothing removes anything. this is a basic law! no
seriuosly... step one - a wire brush at speed rotating
slowly does the job. scca regional cleanyness

step two - paint thinner leaves residue that's removable
with CHO. cycle cleanliness. good for locktite applications
prep. use two clean rags for 2-b. repeat with CLEAN wire
rotating brush. cleaning with a used brush does no one any
good. the oprative factor here is the brush rotating evaps
the [censored] from duh grooves with friction.

step 3 - acetone wipe off off paint thinner possibly
following the CHO wipe off with two rags. wannabe rocket
engineer grade.

yawl find that acetone doesn't actually remove loctite, the
acetone brittles loctite maybe preparing the locktite for...
drumroll please!!!

the knife. run a knife down the threads. a utility blade? a
sharpened bent spoke. spokes take a nice filed bent point to
fit custom dude!! take a comfortable seat and carefully
remove the stuff. use a good light.

final absolute law: mechanical removal beats chemical
removal every time. and use a softer metal brush on
aluminum. ask the hardware store man. keep in mind that the
aluminum part will depart soon enough for the same reasons.

"g.daniels" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

nothing removes anything. this is a basic law! no
seriuosly... step one - a wire brush at speed rotating
slowly does the job. scca regional cleanyness

step two - paint thinner leaves residue that's removable
with CHO. cycle cleanliness. good for locktite
applications prep. use two clean rags for 2-b. repeat with
CLEAN wire rotating brush. cleaning with a used brush does
no one any good. the oprative factor here is the brush
rotating evaps the [censored] from duh grooves with friction.

step 3 - acetone wipe off off paint thinner possibly
following the CHO wipe off with two rags. wannabe rocket
engineer grade.

yawl find that acetone doesn't actually remove loctite,
the acetone brittles loctite maybe preparing the locktite
for... drumroll please!!!

the knife. run a knife down the threads. a utility blade?
a sharpened bent spoke. spokes take a nice filed bent
point to fit custom dude!! take a comfortable seat and
carefully remove the stuff. use a good light.

final absolute law: mechanical removal beats chemical
removal every time. and use a softer metal brush on
aluminum. ask the hardware store man. keep in mind that
the aluminum part will depart soon enough for the same
reasons.

Got a heat gun? Works fine! -tom

Heat gun on threaded aluminum isn't a good idea. Most aluminum derives its strength from elevated temperature aging. Even a lowly heat gun can over age heat treated aluminum, causing it to lose most of its strength.

Fasteners are no exception.

A soak in solvent like 2-propanone (acetone) and mild brushing with a coarse Nylon brush will get it off.

Also, threadlockers are a methacrylic ester, not a cyanoacrylate ester as posted earlier. Similar but not the same soluability. Methacrylics will soften but not dissolve.

a first step is awareness that under the locktite is a
fairly clean surface if that's a virgin factory piece your
taking apart. The factory has a system to avoid the legal
problems associated with granny';s bike coming apart in an
intersection, veering right across the path of three state
patrol cars going to a funeral below the legal
limit... or it might be your prepared surface, so you shud
know? the idea is not to get the underneath covered
with unclean solvent after peeling the loctite of with
a sharp edge. this leads to the idea that solvent and
wipe and dry before scraping is a good idea. after
scraping the lock out, more clean solvent and thinner
then CHO will do it gives just about all the grip one
needs. unless yawl taking the F-150 across the chiwawa
at 130. loctite has a website that informed sources
imply now has some data on it. The idea that extra
clean surfaces add up to 20%, 30% or more meaningful
grip is uh unknown as quantifiable data but taken for
granite by everyone cepting those who don't have the
time and generally DNF. there are exceptions that
include the thinner/cho wipe and go on to
thinner/acetone: the pulley bolts using red locktite,
that F-150 front end, and bad environment, long term
placement joints such as the pedals/crank where
sealing the moisture out and narrowing the goo depth
resting between(like its there right?, get the scope
out!) are one and the same as not having the joint
loosen and rip off yawl's testicles. then there's the
obsessive compulsive as with the pulley bolts. small
thread areas need the red lock: the blue doesn't hold
it. But improving on this problem is no problem using
acetone. the acetone emulsifies that in between
surface into small solids or congealed liquids-there's
some [censored] seperation going on there, no longer a
continuous film, at leats. this gives that scoped
metal surface( unless yawl have italian equipment) of
grand canyon like microscopic revelation. "no
virginia, its not a smooth" that's where the acetone
gives grip. exposing the grain gioves the locktite a
surface to grip into and a surface that will tend to
prevent water seepage and then following that loctite
separation from the surface as the O2 pushes the stuff
up and away. whew! the cable screws? if yawl wipe the
glop away. yeah not into the groove stupid, away from
the grooves then unscrew drip blue or red into the
gap, do yawl thing and screw the garbage coated
fastener bak in then that shud do the job holding the
cable with just a tweak of torque past snug. try that
with the pedals and yawl be singing soprano!!!

on using acetone for female threads: clean the sufaces out
with the knife or spoke following a paint thinner
wipeout(and then CHO if yawl goin to indy) THEN thread a rag
piece into the hole. pour acetone onto the rag soas the
acetone goes down thru with gravity. maybe crush foil over
the joint to... walk upwing and let sit.