Remounting a dropped chain

Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the
staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail.
While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the
chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a
rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the
chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers
(they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily).

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem
several points of attack:

1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in
the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when
putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices
that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much
effect in this situation.

2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I've done this before, but would
prefer not to. It's not like I have to deal with the dirty chain that
much.

3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the
chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it
requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves
would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit
but that seems a bit much.

4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards.

I'd prefer a mechanical technique that allows me to easily remount a
dropped chain without having to grap it with fingers.

Joe

"Joe Riel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the
staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail.
While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the
chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a
rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the
chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers
(they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily).

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem
several points of attack:

1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in
the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when
putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices
that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much
effect in this situation.

2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I've done this before, but would
prefer not to. It's not like I have to deal with the dirty chain that
much.

3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the
chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it
requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves
would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit
but that seems a bit much.

4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards.

5. Wear black socks and/or shorts.

Nothing is full proof so it's better to have something to wipe one's hands
width. Although, my chain is usually pretty damned clean unless it's
raining or I've hit a lot of water crossings. And I just use Phil's
Tenacious oil.

Greg

On Thu, 22 Dec 2005 22:16:53 GMT, Joe Riel <[email hidden]> wrote:

[---]

Quoted message said:

Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the
chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers
(they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily).

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem?

[--]

Quoted message said:

3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the
chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it
requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves
would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit
but that seems a bit much.

That's what I do - I just use a pair of cheap rubber kitchen gloves
when changing the wheel or the chain.

What kind of components are you using? I ask because this doesn't
happen to me when I have a rear flat. I have a Campy Record Triple ten
speed on one bike, and Campy Chorus Triple nine speed on the other. (I
drop the chain regularly on the track bike. <g>😉

I've been using Pedro's Ice Wax to lube my chain for quite awhile, and
the chain stays a lot cleaner than when I used to use TriFlow. White
Lightning lube seems to keep the chain fairly clean, too, but I have the
impression it doesn't last as long as the Ice Wax. (The chain may last
longer, too, but I don't have any data to support saying so.)

If you must touch the chain, wipe your fingers on the inside of the leg
of your shorts, where it isn't too visible, and head for home, to
shorten the period you can be seen, and thus embarrassed.

Joe Riel said:

Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the
staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail.
While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the
chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a
rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the
chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers
(they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily).

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem
several points of attack:

1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in
the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when
putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices
that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much
effect in this situation.

2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it.

I keep mine cleaner, but not super clean, with convential lube and
frequent wiping.

Quoted message said:

3. Avoid touching the chain.

Yes. I look for a leaf on the ground or something like that.

Quoted message said:

4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards.

How about "don't get flats." I use Mr. Tuffies much of the time and
get extremely few flats out on the road.

JT

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Joe Riel said:

Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the
staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail.
While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the
chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a
rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the
chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers
(they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily).

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem
several points of attack:

1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in
the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when
putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices
that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much
effect in this situation.

2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I've done this before, but would
prefer not to. It's not like I have to deal with the dirty chain that
much.

3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the
chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it
requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves
would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit
but that seems a bit much.

4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards.

I'd prefer a mechanical technique that allows me to easily remount a
dropped chain without having to grap it with fingers.

Cool old steel race bikes (like mine) had a little rivet looking dooble brazed
onto the seat stay about four inches up from the dropout. You hang the chain on
that to keep tension on the derailleur and everything stays in place.

Ron

Quoted message said:

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem?

Do you have a double? If so, shift the derailleur outwards and pedal it
out. If you have a triple, it might still be doable if the chainring bolt
heads aren't too thick.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Phil said:

Quoted message said:

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem?

Do you have a double? If so, shift the derailleur outwards and pedal it
out. If you have a triple, it might still be doable if the chainring bolt
heads aren't too thick.

It's kind of hard to "pedal it out" when I'm standing on the side of
the road 8-).

Colin Campbell said:

What kind of components are you using? I ask because this doesn't
happen to me when I have a rear flat. I have a Campy Record Triple
ten speed on one bike, and Campy Chorus Triple nine speed on the
other. (I drop the chain regularly on the track bike. <g>😉

Campy Record double. I don't drop it while riding, just if
the rear wheels off, the chain is on the small ring, and
the cranks turn backwards.

Joe

John Forrest Tomlinson said:

Quoted message said:

3. Avoid touching the chain.

Yes. I look for a leaf on the ground or something like that.

Usually I'll do that. This time, not thinking, I didn't.
Afterwards I did find a discarded paper towel that allowed
me to get some of the grime of my hands; if I had looked
before I could have used it and avoided the mess.

Joe

Joe Riel said:

Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the
staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail.
While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the
chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a
rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the
chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers
(they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily).

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem
several points of attack:

1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in
the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when
putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices
that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much
effect in this situation.

2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I've done this before, but would
prefer not to. It's not like I have to deal with the dirty chain that
much.

3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the
chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it
requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves
would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit
but that seems a bit much.

4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards.

I'd prefer a mechanical technique that allows me to easily remount a
dropped chain without having to grap it with fingers.

After my first thrown chain, I started wearing or carrying a pair of
cheap brown cotton gloves or a scrap rag in my wedge bag. If they get
grimy, I just wash them when I get home.

Joe Riel said:

Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the
staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail.
While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the
chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a
rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the
chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers
(they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily).

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem
several points of attack:

1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in
the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when
putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices
that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much
effect in this situation.

2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I've done this before, but would
prefer not to. It's not like I have to deal with the dirty chain that
much.

3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the
chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it
requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves
would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit
but that seems a bit much.

4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards.

I'd prefer a mechanical technique that allows me to easily remount a
dropped chain without having to grap it with fingers.

Good grief. Just wipe your hands on your black latex shorts! (And use
black bar tape.)

When I flat in the rear (no snide remarks, please), I always shift to the
smallest cog AND turn the bike upside down. (THEN I usually remember to
open up the brake pads.) Pull wheel off, replace tube, pump up and
reinstall. By grabbing the der cage I usually avoid touching (!) the chain,
but hands get dirty anyway. Quick quad rub and I'm good to go. (Oh
yeah...CLOSE brake pads!)

Bill "is this how roadies get a wussified image?" S.

RonSonic said:

Joe Riel said:

Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the
staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail.
While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the
chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a
rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the
chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers
(they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily).

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem
several points of attack:

Cool old steel race bikes (like mine) had a little rivet looking dooble brazed
onto the seat stay about four inches up from the dropout. You hang the chain on
that to keep tension on the derailleur and everything stays in place.

....and get the chain onto the "chain hanger" using an allen key as a
hook. If your frame doesn't have one of these, there used to be a
plastic "keeper" you could buy (Tour EZ?) that gave the same results.
You hooked the chain with the keeper and hooked the keeper over your
dropout.

Mark

In article <[email hidden]>,

Joe Riel said:

Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the
staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail.
While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the
chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a
rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the
chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers
(they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily).

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem
several points of attack:

1. Avoid dropping the chain. Maybe there's a trick to avoid this in
the first place. From experience the chain is often dropped when
putting the wheel back on. Note that the various "sharp fin" devices
that help prevent throwing the chain during a shift don't have much
effect in this situation.

2. Keep the chain clean, say wax it. I've done this before, but would
prefer not to. It's not like I have to deal with the dirty chain that
much.

3. Avoid touching the chain. I've tried using a tire lever to get the
chain back on the ring, but that doesn't always work (generally it
requires turning the cranks, and isn't easy to do alone). Gloves
would work, I've thought of adding a disposable latex glove to my kit
but that seems a bit much.

4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards.

I'd prefer a mechanical technique that allows me to easily remount a
dropped chain without having to grap it with fingers.

Pair of latex gloves in your tool kit. (Then leave them at
the side of the road when you are done.)

--
Michael Press

Joe Riel said:

I'd prefer a mechanical technique that allows me to easily remount a
dropped chain without having to grap it with fingers.

If the chain doesn't drop, there's no need to remount it.

Some medium-size binder clips http://tinyurl.com/b2vnq take up very
little room in the spares bag, and they have other uses as well.
Clipped to the front sprocket near the top and bottom just before the
rear wheel is unleashed, they do a nice job of keeping the chain in
place. Another in the middle is also a good idea. If the cranks are
rotated with the wheel dismounted they can be popped off, but as long
as you're reasonably careful about that, they'll keep the chain where
it belongs.

--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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Michael Press said:

Pair of latex gloves in your tool kit. (Then leave them at
the side of the road when you are done.)

Preferably don't. Strip them off inverted to keep the grease inside,
and replace them when you get home. No litter, and you've got a
visual reminder to put a fresh pair in the bag.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Joe Riel said:

Today I flatted. [...]
While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the
chain on the inside.

Quoted message said:

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem?
1. Avoid dropping the chain.

If I think of it beforehand, I shift to the big ring before dropping
the rear wheel out. Usually I don't think of it. ;-) Sometimes I can
shift to the big ring after the wheel's out. Occasionally just shifting
the derailleur towards the big ring (not the chain) keeps it on.

Quoted message said:

3. Avoid touching the chain.

Before reinstalling the wheel, I can get the chain back on the small
ring without touching it by tilting the whole bike forward (like doing
an endo). Then moving the bike and using gravity to steer the dangling
upper chain run I can get it to engage the top of the small chain ring.
Then I lower the bike, pedal the chain back on and slip the rear wheel
in place. This is much easier to do than to describe. ;-)

Quoted message said:

4. Carry a rag/wipe for cleaning the mess off afterwards.

Of course black shorts are great for wiping hands. I'm also willing to
wipe my hands on the grass. It's far from perfect but actually works
pretty well.

Quoted message said:

I'd prefer a mechanical technique that allows me to easily remount a
dropped chain without having to grap it with fingers.

See 3 above.

Michael Press said:

Pair of latex gloves in your tool kit. (Then leave them at
the side of the road when you are done.)

?

JT

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Joe Riel said:

Today I flatted. No big deal, removed the rear wheel, pulled out the
staple, swapped inner tubes, back on the back. Except for one detail.
While removing the rear wheel the cranks turned backwards, dumping the
chain on the inside. That seems a fairly common occurence during a
rear wheel change. Its an annoyance because its tricky to get the
chain back on the rings with getting grime all over my fingers
(they were dirty from changing the tire, but not oily).

Is there a clever way to avoid/solve this problem? There seem
several points of attack:

Get on the bike. Put left foot on the ground, left hand depressing
front brake. Clip right foot into pedal. Lift back wheel off of ground
by pushing the bike forward. Shift into big ring. Slowly rotate crank
with right foot. When chain start to engage drop back into your small
or middle ring, finish rotation and your golden.

Took a little practice to get the timing right, but works every time
for me. Works best with STI or Rapid fire, since your hand does not
have to leave the brake lever.

-Nate