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Remoulade Tour

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General fitness, health and nutrition
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23 June 2007
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30 June 2007
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modom (palindrome guy)
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  1. For a couple of years I've been diddling around with a plan to travel
    from Houston to Mississippi stopping at every joint, eatery and
    restaurant along the Gulf coast to sample their version of remoulade.
    The idea is to research remoulade in all its iterations, permutations
    and variations in as much of Acadiana and its environs as can be
    reasonably toured in the time available to me to see what can be
    learned about this noble gustatory pleasure for the benefit of all
    humankind.

    Well for the benefit of part of humankind, anyway.

    For me, okay?

    I've had homemade remoulade in a sleepy little town north of Baton
    Rouge -- a gift from my grandmother's neighbor, who also (34 years
    ago) gave D and me a Creole cookbook with a remoulade recipe in it as
    our wedding present. I've had remoulade in a place in Pointe Coupee
    Parish, at my uncle Leon's place in Gretna, at Fitzgerald's on a pier
    on Lake Ponchartrain (now destroyed), in a dive in New Orleans, in an
    upscale restaurant in New Orleans, in Lake Charles, in Houston, even.
    Each time it was different. Each time it was GOOD.

    I yearn to understand remoulade. I crave remoulade wisdom. To be one
    with remoulade is surely a path to happiness, an escape from
    dreariness, a promise of delight. There is a purpose in remoulade.

    I mentioned the idea in passing to my sister last Christmas, and it
    appears to have taken root in her imagination. Last night, she called
    to plan our trip to Baton Rouge to see our parents, and the Remoulade
    Tour began again to materialize in our conversation. My sister is
    getting serious about this. It looks like this as of tonight: later
    this summer D, sister, and I will haul our remoulade-craving bellies
    down along the coast on a test run of the Remoulade Tour as we make
    our way from Texas to Baton Rouge. We'll probably only be able to
    stop at three or four places this time out, but we'll be able to test
    The Great Remoulade Hypothesis (TGRH) if only in a very limited way.

    TGRH: Even though every iteration of remoulade is different in
    deliciously noticeable ways from all other iterations, all remoulade
    is good.

    I plan to shoot pictures and take notes.

    Evidence arrived today in support of the scheme in the form of a late
    birthday present from D. _The Hog Island Oyster Cookbook_ was in our
    mailbox this afternoon, and in it was a recipe for -- you know. I
    guess we'll have to visit California next. And French remoulade is
    entirely different from it siblings on this side of the Atlantic.

    It could become quite a tour indeed.

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

  2. "modom (palindrome guy)" <moc.etoyok@modom> wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    It could become quite a tour indeed.

    Acadian food trip requires visiting Nova Scotia Canada...where the Acadians
    began.

    --

    The house of the burning beet-Alan

    It'll be a sunny day in August, when the Moon will shine that night-
    Elbonian Folklore

  3. hahabogus said:

    "modom (palindrome guy)" <moc.etoyok@modom> wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    It could become quite a tour indeed.

    Acadian food trip requires visiting Nova Scotia Canada...where the Acadians
    began.

    Do they also have remoulade?

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

  4. modom (palindrome guy) said:
    hahabogus said:

    "modom (palindrome guy)" <moc.etoyok@modom> wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    It could become quite a tour indeed.

    Acadian food trip requires visiting Nova Scotia Canada...where the Acadians
    began.

    Do they also have remoulade?


    I thought the Brits deported all the Acadians in the 1700's! They aren't
    all in Louisiana, some are in Maine, some in Rhode Island, and in other
    areas where they were dropped off. I live in SW Louisiana and there are
    still a bunch around here for sure. Unfortunately the Cajun language is
    dying out.

    George

  5. modom (palindrome guy) said:

    For a couple of years I've been diddling around with a plan to travel
    from Houston to Mississippi stopping at every joint, eatery and
    restaurant along the Gulf coast to sample their version of remoulade.
    The idea is to research remoulade in all its iterations, permutations
    and variations in as much of Acadiana and its environs as can be
    reasonably toured in the time available to me to see what can be
    learned about this noble gustatory pleasure for the benefit of all
    humankind.

    (interesting post snipped for brevity)

    The company where I worked for many years before I retired has a large
    plant in Lake Charles, La. I treasure a cookbook given me from the
    manager there, which contains a recipe for remoulade (just another one
    for your collection):

    REMOULADE SAUCE

    2 tbs tarragon vinegar
    2 tbs hot mustard
    1 1/2 tsp hoseradish
    3 teaspoons paprika
    2 tbs catsup
    salt and pepper to taste
    1/2 cup olive oil
    1 stalk celery, finely chopped
    2 green onions and tops, finely chopped
    1 tbs parsley, minced
    2 nchovies
    1 hard-boiled egg, mashed

    Combine vinegar with mustard, horseradish and seasonings in food
    processor. Gradually add oil and blend well. Add celery, green onions,
    parsley, egg and anchovies. Pour over boiled shrimp and chill for
    several hours. When ready to serve, mix well and serve on shredded
    letuce. Serves four.

    Source: The Official Louisiana Seafood and Wild Game Cookbook,
    Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries, published 1985

    Have fun on your tour, modom!

    Dora

  6. limey said:

    REMOULADE SAUCE

    2 tbs tarragon vinegar
    2 tbs hot mustard
    1 1/2 tsp hoseradish
    3 teaspoons paprika
    2 tbs catsup
    salt and pepper to taste
    1/2 cup olive oil
    1 stalk celery, finely chopped
    2 green onions and tops, finely chopped
    1 tbs parsley, minced
    2 nchovies
    1 hard-boiled egg, mashed

    Combine vinegar with mustard, horseradish and seasonings in food
    processor. Gradually add oil and blend well. Add celery, green onions,
    parsley, egg and anchovies. Pour over boiled shrimp and chill for
    several hours. When ready to serve, mix well and serve on shredded
    letuce. Serves four.

    Source: The Official Louisiana Seafood and Wild Game Cookbook,
    Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries, published 1985

    Have fun on your tour, modom!

    Dora

    Thanks for the recipe.

    Becca

  7. Another Remoulade Sauce Recipe-from The River Road Recipes-1973

    4 Tbs lemon juice 1/2 Tsp black pepper
    4 Tbs vinegar 2 Tsp paprika
    4 Tbs prepared mustard Dash cayenne
    4 Tbs prepared horseradish 2 Tbsp catsup(optional)
    2tsp salt 1 cup salad oil
    1/2 cup
    celery,chopped fine
    1/2 cup green
    onions,minced

    Combine lemon juice,vinegar(tarragon, if you have it) and seasonings.
    Gradually add oil.Stir with a fork or rotary beater to blend well.Add celery
    and onion. Makes 2 cups.

  8. limey said:

    The company where I worked for many years before I retired has a large
    plant in Lake Charles, La. I treasure a cookbook given me from the
    manager there, which contains a recipe for remoulade (just another one
    for your collection):

    REMOULADE SAUCE

    2 tbs tarragon vinegar
    2 tbs hot mustard
    1 1/2 tsp hoseradish
    3 teaspoons paprika
    2 tbs catsup
    salt and pepper to taste
    1/2 cup olive oil
    1 stalk celery, finely chopped
    2 green onions and tops, finely chopped
    1 tbs parsley, minced
    2 nchovies
    1 hard-boiled egg, mashed

    Combine vinegar with mustard, horseradish and seasonings in food
    processor. Gradually add oil and blend well. Add celery, green onions,
    parsley, egg and anchovies. Pour over boiled shrimp and chill for
    several hours. When ready to serve, mix well and serve on shredded
    letuce. Serves four.

    Have fun on your tour,modom!

    Dora

    Thanks! I'll try the recipe tonight.

    modom

  9. Uecho said:

    Another Remoulade Sauce Recipe-from The River Road Recipes-1973

    4 Tbs lemon juice 1/2 Tsp black pepper
    4 Tbs vinegar 2 Tsp paprika
    4 Tbs prepared mustard Dash cayenne
    4 Tbs prepared horseradish 2 Tbsp catsup(optional)
    2tsp salt 1 cup salad oil
    1/2 cup
    celery,chopped fine
    1/2 cup green
    onions,minced

    Combine lemon juice,vinegar(tarragon, if you have it) and seasonings.
    Gradually add oil.Stir with a fork or rotary beater to blend well.Add celery
    and onion. Makes 2 cups.


    The odd thing here is that I have that cookbook. It was a present
    when D and I got married. Of course it's falling apart, and most of
    the index is missing now. BTW, doesn't the original RRR version of
    this recipe call green onions "shallots"? That usage was a source of
    confusion in my early days of cooking, as I recall.

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

  10. Uecho said:

    Another Remoulade Sauce Recipe-from The River Road Recipes-1973

    4 Tbs lemon juice 1/2 Tsp black pepper
    4 Tbs vinegar 2 Tsp paprika
    4 Tbs prepared mustard Dash cayenne
    4 Tbs prepared horseradish 2 Tbsp catsup(optional)
    2tsp salt 1 cup salad oil
    1/2 cup
    celery,chopped fine
    1/2 cup green
    onions,minced

    Combine lemon juice,vinegar(tarragon, if you have it) and seasonings.
    Gradually add oil.Stir with a fork or rotary beater to blend well.Add celery
    and onion. Makes 2 cups.


    Here's August Escoffier's instructions, just FYI...

    Sauce Remoulde
    --------------

    To 4 & 1/2 cups mayonnaise add and mix in 1 & 1/2 tbs. mustard, 3 & 1/2
    ounces chopped gherkins, 2 ounces capers chopped and squeezed to remove
    the liquid, 1 tbs. mixed chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil, and 1/2
    tbs. anchovy essence. [use less whole anchovy or anchovy paste]

    --------------

    Personally i prefer a...

    Sauce Gribiche
    --------------

    Place the yolks of 6 freshly cooked hard boiled eggs in a basin, crush
    them and work t a smooth paste adding 1 tsp.. mustard and a pinch of
    salt and pepper, then proceed in the usual way way as for mayonnaise by
    adding 2 & 1/4 cups oil and 1 & 1/2 tbs. vinegar.

    Finish the sauce with 3 & 1/2 ounces mixed chopped capers and gherkins;
    1 tbs. mixed chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil; and the whites of 3
    hard boiled eggs cut into short.
    --
    JL

  11. Re: River Road Cookbook 1973.

    My book shows green onions in this and every recipe calling for same.

  12. Joseph Littleshoes said:

    Here's August Escoffier's instructions, just FYI...

    Sauce Remoulde
    --------------

    To 4 & 1/2 cups mayonnaise add and mix in 1 & 1/2 tbs. mustard, 3 & 1/2
    ounces chopped gherkins, 2 ounces capers chopped and squeezed to remove
    the liquid, 1 tbs. mixed chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil, and 1/2
    tbs. anchovy essence. [use less whole anchovy or anchovy paste]

    Personally i prefer a...

    Sauce Gribiche
    --------------

    Place the yolks of 6 freshly cooked hard boiled eggs in a basin, crush
    them and work t a smooth paste adding 1 tsp.. mustard and a pinch of
    salt and pepper, then proceed in the usual way way as for mayonnaise by
    adding 2 & 1/4 cups oil and 1 & 1/2 tbs. vinegar.

    Finish the sauce with 3 & 1/2 ounces mixed chopped capers and gherkins;
    1 tbs. mixed chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil; and the whites of 3
    hard boiled eggs cut into short.

    Thanks, JL. The Gribiche looks particularly tasty. In Acadiana,
    remoulade has morphed into something quite different from its French
    cousin. The Cajuns wound up there in the middle of the 18th century
    after getting kicked out of Canada, and their cuisine has had a long
    time to develop independently of what happened in France. Cajun
    andouille is also quite distinct from sausages called by that name in
    France.

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

  13. modom (palindrome guy) said:

    The odd thing here is that I have that cookbook. It was a present
    when D and I got married. Of course it's falling apart, and most of
    the index is missing now. BTW, doesn't the original RRR version of
    this recipe call green onions "shallots"? That usage was a source of
    confusion in my early days of cooking, as I recall.

    My mother has a collection of River Road Recipe books, starting in the
    50's. I will ask her about the cookbooks, I would love to see them again.

    Becca

  14. In article <[email hidden]>,

    modom (palindrome guy)' moc.etoyok@modom said:

    For a couple of years I've been diddling around with a plan to travel
    from Houston to Mississippi stopping at every joint, eatery and
    restaurant along the Gulf coast to sample their version of remoulade.
    The idea is to research remoulade in all its iterations, permutations
    and variations in as much of Acadiana and its environs as can be
    reasonably toured in the time available to me to see what can be
    learned about this noble gustatory pleasure for the benefit of all
    humankind.

    I salute you, Sir! It is rare in this day for someone to step up. The
    'someone else can do it' attitude is all too pervasive. Create a need
    and fill it! Let them eat remoulade! Go, Modom - go, Modom - go Modom!
    Done properly, you could probably get a paper published for a handsome
    or generous fee (generous being enough to cover expenses, handsome
    having some left over).
    --
    -Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJ
    http://www.jamlady.eboard.com
    http:/http://www.caringbridge.org/visit/amytaylor/

  15. On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 16:31:05 -0500, "modom (palindrome guy)"

    moc.etoyok@modom said:
    Uecho said:

    Another Remoulade Sauce Recipe-from The River Road Recipes-1973

    4 Tbs lemon juice 1/2 Tsp black pepper
    4 Tbs vinegar 2 Tsp paprika
    4 Tbs prepared mustard Dash cayenne
    4 Tbs prepared horseradish 2 Tbsp catsup(optional)
    2tsp salt 1 cup salad oil
    1/2 cup
    celery,chopped fine
    1/2 cup green
    onions,minced

    Combine lemon juice,vinegar(tarragon, if you have it) and seasonings.
    Gradually add oil.Stir with a fork or rotary beater to blend well.Add celery
    and onion. Makes 2 cups.


    The odd thing here is that I have that cookbook. It was a present
    when D and I got married. Of course it's falling apart, and most of
    the index is missing now. BTW, doesn't the original RRR version of
    this recipe call green onions "shallots"? That usage was a source of
    confusion in my early days of cooking, as I recall.

    My book is the 13th printing in 1966 and says green onions.
    --
    Susan N.

    "Moral indignation is in most cases two percent moral,
    48 percent indignation, and 50 percent envy."
    Vittorio De Sica, Italian movie director (1901-1974)

  16. On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 06:22:25 -0500, The Cook <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:


    My book is the 13th printing in 1966 and says green onions.

    That's two to one. Obviously, I remember wrong. In fact, I just
    checked mine (29th printing, 1972) and I did remember wrong.

    OBRemoulade: I made some last night from Dora's recipe. It was well
    received. Thanks, Dora.

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

  17. On Jun 23, 6:19 pm, Melba's Jammin' <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    modom (palindrome guy)' moc.etoyok@modom said:

    For a couple of years I've been diddling around with a plan to travel
    from Houston to Mississippi stopping at every joint, eatery and
    restaurant along the Gulf coast to sample their version of remoulade.
    The idea is to research remoulade in all its iterations, permutations
    and variations in as much of Acadiana and its environs as can be
    reasonably toured in the time available to me to see what can be
    learned about this noble gustatory pleasure for the benefit of all
    humankind.

    I salute you, Sir! It is rare in this day for someone to step up. The
    'someone else can do it' attitude is all too pervasive. Create a need
    and fill it! Let them eat remoulade! Go, Modom - go, Modom - go Modom!
    Done properly, you could probably get a paper published for a handsome
    or generous fee (generous being enough to cover expenses, handsome
    having some left over).
    --
    -Barb, Mother Superior, HOSSSPoJhttp://www.jamlady.eboard.com
    http:/http://www.caringbridge.org/visit/amytaylor/

    I'll join the cheering section (yay!) and also offer some data for use
    in the appendix of your upcoming publication. A few years ago it
    struck me that remoulade, one of my favorite dressings, was like
    chile or cioppino. It seems to have as many variants as there are
    cooks and this intrigued me so I decided to investigate. I was able
    to find about 20 recipes in my collection asa well as the UCDavis
    library.
    One thing I did was compile a table of all the ingredients in the
    recipes based on their frequency of use. For reasons that I forget, I
    divided the data into two table, one for Louisiana and one for the
    U.S. and Europe. The recipes go back as far as about 1900. So, here
    it is:

    REMOULADE USA & FRANCE (W/O LOUISIANA)

    mayonnaise 9
    capers 9
    herbs 9
    sour pickles 8
    anchovy 7
    prepared mustard 6
    parsley 6
    vinegar 2
    boiled egg 2
    tabasco/cayenne 2
    chives 2
    oil 1
    Lea & Perrins 1
    shallots 1
    garlic 1
    lemon 1

    REMOULADE (LA)

    prepared mustard 10
    vinegar 9
    parsley 8
    scallions 8
    oil 7
    horseradish 7
    tabasco/cayenne 7
    celery 7
    paprika 7
    mayonnaise 6
    garlic 5
    Lea & Perrins 4
    catsup/chilisauce 4
    onion 4
    lemon 4
    dry mustard 3
    herbs 3
    bell pepper 1

    So there!
    D.M.

  18. On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 19:21:59 -0700, "D.A.Martinich" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    I'll join the cheering section (yay!) and also offer some data for use
    in the appendix of your upcoming publication. A few years ago it
    struck me that remoulade, one of my favorite dressings, was like
    chile or cioppino. It seems to have as many variants as there are
    cooks and this intrigued me so I decided to investigate. I was able
    to find about 20 recipes in my collection asa well as the UCDavis
    library.
    One thing I did was compile a table of all the ingredients in the
    recipes based on their frequency of use. For reasons that I forget, I
    divided the data into two table, one for Louisiana and one for the
    U.S. and Europe. The recipes go back as far as about 1900. So, here
    it is:

    REMOULADE USA & FRANCE (W/O LOUISIANA)

    mayonnaise 9
    capers 9
    herbs 9
    sour pickles 8
    anchovy 7
    prepared mustard 6
    parsley 6
    vinegar 2
    boiled egg 2
    tabasco/cayenne 2
    chives 2
    oil 1
    Lea & Perrins 1
    shallots 1
    garlic 1
    lemon 1

    REMOULADE (LA)

    prepared mustard 10
    vinegar 9
    parsley 8
    scallions 8
    oil 7
    horseradish 7
    tabasco/cayenne 7
    celery 7
    paprika 7
    mayonnaise 6
    garlic 5
    Lea & Perrins 4
    catsup/chilisauce 4
    onion 4
    lemon 4
    dry mustard 3
    herbs 3
    bell pepper 1

    So there!
    D.M.

    So there, indeed. That's quite an impressive remoulade rundown you
    have there. Do you have the total numbers of remoulade recipes for
    each list? It's be nice to see what percentage of the total called
    for mayonnaise vs oil, and if any called for both, for example.
    --

    modom

    --
    Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

  19. modom (palindrome guy)' moc.etoyok@modom said:

    So there, indeed. That's quite an impressive remoulade rundown you
    have there. Do you have the total numbers of remoulade recipes for
    each list? It's be nice to see what percentage of the total called
    for mayonnaise vs oil, and if any called for both, for example.
    --

    modom

    Unfortunately, I don't have each recipe transcribed, but, I think
    there was one with both oil and mayo. But, don't trust my memory, I
    did this in the late 90's. I do have the totals and sources. I'll
    let you calculate the percentages ;=].

    10 sources for Europe and USA-

    HC Horizon Cookbook-a history of food
    PC The New Professional Chef by the C.I.A.- a contemporary reference
    GC Gourmet Cookbook I & II- from Gourmet mag in the 50's
    LG Larousse Gastronomique- French reference from the 30's
    GI Great Italian Cooking- Italian/continental from the 60's
    RO Raymond Oliver's La Cuisine- French standards from the 60's
    CR Charles Ranhoffer's The Epicurean- by the chef at Delminico's, 1894
    JC Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking, 1961
    JB The James Beard Cookbook, 1959
    RB The Joy of Cooking, 1964 edition

    12 sources for Louisiana-

    B1 Nataniel Burton, from Creole Feast, 1978- NOLA restaurant chefs.
    B2 as above
    CR Sherman Crayton, as above
    KI Charles Kirkland, as above
    EV Louis Evans, as above
    BL Chistopher Blake's Red Beans and Ricely Yours- 1975
    JL1 Junior League of Lafayette Inc, Talk About Good!- 1969
    JL2 as above
    JL3 as above
    RR Rima & Richard Collin, New Orleans Cooking- 197?
    

  20. D.A.Martinich said:

    One thing I did was compile a table of all the ingredients in the
    recipes based on their frequency of use. For reasons that I forget, I
    divided the data into two table, one for Louisiana and one for the
    U.S. and Europe. The recipes go back as far as about 1900. So, here
    it is:

    It would be interesting to develop a map based on the overlap of
    ingredients--the more common ingredients two versions have, the closer
    they would be in the map. Kind of like a sociogram. Maybe call it a
    remouladogram. Just an idea.

    -bwg

    Quoted message said:

    REMOULADE USA & FRANCE (W/O LOUISIANA)

    mayonnaise 9
    capers 9
    herbs 9
    sour pickles 8
    anchovy 7
    prepared mustard 6
    parsley 6
    vinegar 2
    boiled egg 2
    tabasco/cayenne 2
    chives 2
    oil 1
    Lea & Perrins 1
    shallots 1
    garlic 1
    lemon 1

    REMOULADE (LA)

    prepared mustard 10
    vinegar 9
    parsley 8
    scallions 8
    oil 7
    horseradish 7
    tabasco/cayenne 7
    celery 7
    paprika 7
    mayonnaise 6
    garlic 5
    Lea & Perrins 4
    catsup/chilisauce 4
    onion 4
    lemon 4
    dry mustard 3
    herbs 3
    bell pepper 1

    So there!
    D.M.

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