UK and Europe · Public discussion

Recommend a racer?

Started by blackhead · · Last activity · 39 posts · 1,307 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
UK and Europe
Published
19 March 2008
Last activity
28 March 2008
Original author
blackhead
Posts
39
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
1,307
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–20 of 39
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. After Googling "recommend bicycle uk" and coming up with nothing, I
    hope you don't mind me posting this question here.

    I'm after a racer, with curved handle bars and am curious as to what
    you would recommend. I'm not after something that is £200 more than
    something else simply because it's 1 pound lighter. I just want
    something that is enjoyable to ride, comfortable and reliable rather
    than something to train me for the Tour De France.

    So what would you recommend in the following price ranges?

    less than £200

    £200-300

    £300-400

    £400-500

    And does the weight of a bicycle really matter when compared to that
    of the rider?

    5Lbs weight difference between two bikes isn't going to make much
    difference if the rider is 168 Lbs is it?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. blackhead said:

    So what would you recommend in the following price ranges?

    less than £200

    Second hand

    Quoted message said:

    £200-300

    Probably second hand, possibly bargains in last year's colours of lower
    level racers.

    Quoted message said:

    £300-400

    Something like EBC Revolution Continental (see
    http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/)

    Quoted message said:

    £400-500

    A lot more choice at this sort of level from many manufacturers, I'll
    leave it to the roadies to point you at a sensible selection

    Quoted message said:

    And does the weight of a bicycle really matter when compared to that
    of the rider?

    5Lbs weight difference between two bikes isn't going to make much
    difference if the rider is 168 Lbs is it?

    You'd think not, but the best way to check is try it out. 5 lbs on a
    good racer is the difference between very nice bits and also-ran bits,
    and the very nice bits make the bike a pleasure to use which makes for
    quite a real effective difference in some cases. But do try it out to
    prove that to yourself. Either find a local shop which lets you do test
    rides or wander along to a local club and ask to try a few out. You'll
    probably find someone who can lend you their Good bike and their winter
    hack and you'll see why they have a better one.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  3. blackhead writtificated

    Quoted message said:

    I just want
    something that is enjoyable to ride, comfortable and reliable rather
    than something to train me for the Tour De France.

    First off, decide whether you want full-on road racing geometry, or a
    slightly more relaxed 'sportive' type ride. These bikes don't have the
    twitchy/responsive handling and a more comfortable position - basicaly
    higher handlebars. Gearing is lower too - they assume you'll not be
    wanting to do 35+ on the flat and God knows what down hill.

    Quoted message said:

    So what would you recommend in the following price ranges?

    less than £200

    Nothing/decent second hand. There are bikes at this price point but
    they're all flawed in some way. If you know what you're doing then
    second hand could be okay.

    Quoted message said:

    £200-300

    Still nowt...

    Quoted message said:

    £300-400

    Something from the last years Giant SCR range.

    Quoted message said:

    £400-500

    Loads of stuff.

    Quoted message said:

    And does the weight of a bicycle really matter when compared to that
    of the rider?

    5Lbs weight difference between two bikes isn't going to make much
    difference if the rider is 168 Lbs is it?

    Yes and no. Little difference in your times/speed, but less weight makes
    a massive difference to the *feel* of the bike. There's nothing like the
    feel of a stiff, lighweight bike - you stamp you foot down and it
    responds instantly, pushing forward and willing you to go faster. A
    heavier bike just doesn't feel alive in the same way.

    Pop into a decent shop and have a test ride of an entry level bike and
    one costing £1,000 or so. Make sure the tyres are pumped to 100psi or
    more and you'll see the difference yourself.

  4. blackhead said:

    And does the weight of a bicycle really matter when compared to that
    of the rider?

    5Lbs weight difference between two bikes isn't going to make much
    difference if the rider is 168 Lbs is it?

    Not much, no. But a sensitive 168 lb rider will notice it when accelerating
    and climbing. It can be enough to make the bike more enjoyable, and long
    rides a little bit easier.

    However, you do have to pay a lot for this "little bit", so you're sensible
    not to worry about the weight if you want to keep the budget low. The
    rigidity of the frame is at least equally important, and you will get enough
    of this with just about any inexpensive modern racer-style road bike.

    Look for a bike with reasonably up-to-date components in order to make
    obtaining spare parts no problem over the next few years.

    Sorry I don't have any specific bike recommendations at the moment.

    ~PB

  5. blackhead said:

    After Googling "recommend bicycle uk" and coming up with nothing, I
    hope you don't mind me posting this question here.

    I'm after a racer, with curved handle bars and am curious as to what
    you would recommend. I'm not after something that is £200 more than
    something else simply because it's 1 pound lighter. I just want
    something that is enjoyable to ride, comfortable and reliable rather
    than something to train me for the Tour De France.

    So what would you recommend in the following price ranges?

    less than £200

    £200-300

    £300-400

    £400-500

    And does the weight of a bicycle really matter when compared to that
    of the rider?

    5Lbs weight difference between two bikes isn't going to make much
    difference if the rider is 168 Lbs is it?

    Thanks in advance.

    I can't offer much expertise, but I second Peter's comments that
    you're not going to find many of this season's models new for under
    £300 (and under £400 will cut your choice down a lot).

    In the £400-£500 ballpark, I'd like to recommend a Trek. I ride a
    1000, which it seems they don't do any more (they call the entry level
    model the 1.2). It's a sound, joyous bike to ride, and (except this
    week, after I crashed last Thursday), has responsive and accurate
    gears, chain and brakes. The one downside I've noticed is that the
    gear cables stretch faster than I'd have anticipated, though I don't
    know if that's me being heavy-handed with them.

    I would NOT recommend a Raleigh; those I've ridden (admittedly
    limited) have been clunkier and harder-going than other bikes of a
    comparable price.

    Henry

  6. May be worth checking out Decathlon as their bikes are normally good value
    and from memory their road bikes start at about 200 quid. BTW their web
    site is [censored] !!

    SW

    "blackhead" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    After Googling "recommend bicycle uk" and coming up with nothing, I
    hope you don't mind me posting this question here.

    I'm after a racer, with curved handle bars and am curious as to what
    you would recommend. I'm not after something that is £200 more than
    something else simply because it's 1 pound lighter. I just want
    something that is enjoyable to ride, comfortable and reliable rather
    than something to train me for the Tour De France.

    So what would you recommend in the following price ranges?

    less than £200

    £200-300

    £300-400

    £400-500

    And does the weight of a bicycle really matter when compared to that
    of the rider?

    5Lbs weight difference between two bikes isn't going to make much
    difference if the rider is 168 Lbs is it?

    Thanks in advance.

  7. blackhead said:

    After Googling "recommend bicycle uk" and coming up with nothing, I
    hope you don't mind me posting this question here.

    I'm after a racer, with curved handle bars I just want
    something that is enjoyable to ride, comfortable and reliable rather
    than something to train me for the Tour De France.

    Comfortable and reliable with curved handlebars suggests more of a
    tourer than a racer. Spa Cycles currently has 2007 Dawes Horizon for
    £340 and Dawes Audax for £390.

    paul

    --
    CTC Right to Ride Rep. for Richmond upon Thames

  8. Paul Luton said:


    Comfortable and reliable with curved handlebars suggests more of a
    tourer than a racer.

    Agreed.

    Quoted message said:

    Spa Cycles currently has 2007 Dawes Horizon for
    £340 and Dawes Audax for £390.

    I think you'd get a nicer bike (to ride) for your money if you spend
    it on a second hand Dawes Galaxy or Super Galaxy on ebay. Having said
    that, I've not ridden a new Horizon or Audax. The Galaxies are an
    attractive option second hand because the tubing that they're made of
    (Reynolds 531 ST) lead to a slightly more comfortable ride than you'd
    get on a new bike for twice the price.

    You can pick up a relatively recent Dawes Galaxy on ebay for circa 200
    quid (I got one myself a couple of weeks ago); the only problem with
    this approach is that you'd need to know what size you were after, and
    how to spot a dud. You're always taking a bit of a chance on some
    parts when you buy on ebay; you might get duff wheels, for example.

    If you don't go second hand I wouldn't go near anything for less than
    about 350 quid.

  9. blackhead said:

    After Googling "recommend bicycle uk" and coming up with nothing, I
    hope you don't mind me posting this question here.

    I'm after a racer, with curved handle bars and am curious as to what
    you would recommend. I'm not after something that is £200 more than
    something else simply because it's 1 pound lighter. I just want
    something that is enjoyable to ride, comfortable and reliable rather
    than something to train me for the Tour De France.

    We do need to know more than this. How experienced a cyclist are you, how
    far do you regularly ride, what are your riding targets over the next few
    years? Do you actually intend to race, and if so, time trials, crits,
    australian pursuit? Do you intend to ride audax?

    Quoted message said:

    So what would you recommend in the following price ranges?

    less than £200

    £200-300

    £300-400

    £400-500

    Frankly, nothing.

    A bike - any bike, but a racing bike in particular - is made up of three
    main bits: the frame, the wheels, and the mechanical parts often lumped
    together as 'the groupset' Once you realise that you'll be able to see that
    rather than a wide range of bikes in the under £500 area, there are
    actually only a few different 'value propositions'.

    Under £500 you are buying

    * An aluminium frame
    * A low end Shimano groupset - 105 at best
    * Cartridge bearing wheels

    There's nothing in principle wrong with any of these things. And if you're
    buying something to sit in the back of your shed except for a few sunny
    days in summer, it may be the best choice for you.

    If you're going to be riding significant distances, though, either a carbon
    fibre or a steel frame is preferable to aluminium because it will transmit
    less vibration to your hands and butt. People say that carbon or steel will
    give you a comfier ride - I'm not sure that this is true, but they do damp
    vibration a bit. And if you can't afford a carbon frame, carbon forks are a
    huge improvement over aluminium ones, and some improvement over steel.

    Better groupsets essentially give more precise gearchanges and don't go out
    of adjustment so quickly. You should be looking for Campagnolo Veloce or
    Centaur, Shimano Tiagra or Ultegra, or SRAM Rival. Obviously all three
    manufacturers produce better groupsets, but you get very nearly as good
    engineering in the middle groupsets with very much lower prices. I'd tend
    to avoid bikes which have a mix of components from half a dozen different
    groupsets, though; they're scraped together from whatever was left in the
    parts bin.

    Quoted message said:

    And does the weight of a bicycle really matter when compared to that
    of the rider?

    Yes.

    Quoted message said:

    5Lbs weight difference between two bikes isn't going to make much
    difference if the rider is 168 Lbs is it?

    Not in flat country, no. In theory it shouldn't make much difference in hill
    country either, but experience shows that it does.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
    ; gif ye hes forget our auld plane Scottis quhilk your mother lerit you,
    ; in tymes cuming I sall wryte to you my mind in Latin, for I am nocht
    ; acquyntit with your Southeron
    ;; Letter frae Ninian Winyet tae John Knox datit 27t October 1563

  10. Henry Lockwood wrote:
    The one downside I've noticed is that the

    Quoted message said:

    gear cables stretch faster than I'd have anticipated, though I don't
    know if that's me being heavy-handed with them.

    Curious I would have thought all gear cables were much of muchness.
    However the rear cable on my trek 1000 did break after about a year. I
    do change gear constantly.

    I replaced the cables but still haven't got the Sora lever clicking
    quite like it used to. Apart from the click it works fine.

  11. Nick said:

    Henry Lockwood wrote:

    The one downside I've noticed is that the

    Quoted message said:

    gear cables stretch faster than I'd have anticipated, though I don't
    know if that's me being heavy-handed with them.

    Curious I would have thought all gear cables were much of muchness.
    However the rear cable on my trek 1000 did break after about a year. I
    do change gear constantly.

    I replaced the cables but still haven't got the Sora lever clicking
    quite like it used to. Apart from the click it works fine.

    Would you believe I thought "brake cables", meant "brake cables",
    typed "gear cables" and proofread "brake cables"?

    The gear cables have been excellent. I use the rear cable a lot, but
    the front shifter rarely gets a look-in: I live in Cambridge, and when
    you're in town you want the middle chainring; out of town you want the
    top chainring except in a stiff wind. My front mech is therefore
    prone to getting dirtied up, particularly in winter.

    Yes, it's the brake cables that go. I shall replace them this
    weekend, I think.

  12. Simon Brooke said:

    Under £500 you are buying
    * A low end Shimano groupset - 105 at best

    ...

    Quoted message said:

    Better groupsets essentially give more precise gearchanges and don't go out
    of adjustment so quickly. You should be looking for Campagnolo Veloce or
    Centaur, Shimano Tiagra or Ultegra, or SRAM Rival.

    Simon, I think you are confusing 105 & Tiagra here. The Shimano
    groupsets go:
    2200 -> Sora -> Tiagra -> 105 -> Ultegra -> Dura Ace.

    For the OP, unfortunately you're asking at more or less exactly the
    wrong time of year. Most manufacturers update their bike range
    towards the end of the year, usually with nothing more than a change
    of colour scheme, and you can pick up the 'old' range cheaper from
    about September onwards.

    In any case, something like a Giant SCR 2 / Trek 1.5 is a decent level
    of spec that you probably won't grow out of in a year, but you're
    still looking at £500+ for a new one (and for £550 you can get last
    year's BeOne Storm 1.0 from CRC, alu frame, carbon fork, 105 / FSA
    groupset, just like mine!)

    Colin

  13. Colin MacDonald said:

    For the OP, unfortunately you're asking at more or less exactly the
    wrong time of year. Most manufacturers update their bike range
    towards the end of the year, usually with nothing more than a change
    of colour scheme, and you can pick up the 'old' range cheaper from
    about September onwards.

    Ummm, my impression was they update them right about now... Roos just
    saved £200 on list of a posh new Specialized because it's last year's
    model, and the bike shops round this way have only just taken delivery
    of their new '08 catalogues.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  14. Peter Clinch said:
    Colin MacDonald said:

    For the OP, unfortunately you're asking at more or less exactly the
    wrong time of year. Most manufacturers update their bike range
    towards the end of the year, usually with nothing more than a change
    of colour scheme, and you can pick up the 'old' range cheaper from
    about September onwards.

    Ummm, my impression was they update them right about now... Roos just
    saved £200 on list of a posh new Specialized because it's last year's
    model, and the bike shops round this way have only just taken delivery
    of their new '08 catalogues.

    Perhaps it's more manufacturer-dependent than I thought. Looking
    around the various websites you can still get last-year models, though
    mostly in the more extreme sizes. When I was looking at new bikes
    (last October) most of the current (at the time) ranges were being
    marked down and the '08 models were becoming available on the web.

    That said, if Roos got her bike locally then it might be different
    timescales; I can imagine discounted LBS stock taking longer to shift
    than via mail order simply due to having less exposure and fewer
    potential customers.

    Colin

  15. Colin MacDonald said:

    That said, if Roos got her bike locally then it might be different
    timescales; I can imagine discounted LBS stock taking longer to shift
    than via mail order simply due to having less exposure and fewer
    potential customers.

    Plan A was a Giant Expression N7, went into the LBS to see what would be
    involved a few weeks back and he said along the lines of, "difficult to
    say as the ranges are all about to change and I can't find out what we
    can get until the new catalogue is available, I'm expecting it Real Soon
    Now and should be able to fill in the details on '08 availability next
    week or so". So that's with Giants available to order from, presumably,
    Giant Central (the Expression N7 is crushingly sensible and was thus not
    available from stock).

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  16. Simon Brooke said:
    blackhead said:

    After Googling "recommend bicycle uk" and coming up with nothing, I
    hope you don't mind me posting this question here.

    Quoted message said:

    I'm after a racer, with curved handle bars and am curious as to what
    you would recommend. I'm not after something that is £200 more than
    something else simply because it's 1 pound lighter. I just want
    something that is enjoyable to ride, comfortable and reliable rather
    than something to train me for the Tour De France.

    We do need to know more than this. How experienced a cyclist are you, how
    far do you regularly ride, what are your riding targets over the next few
    years? Do you actually intend to race, and if so, time trials, crits,
    australian pursuit? Do you intend to ride audax?

    Just something to tour and get some exercise with and at the same time
    enjoyable to ride in all weathers. But at the same time "sexy"
    looking.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    So what would you recommend in the following price ranges?

    Quoted message said:

    less than £200

    Quoted message said:

    £200-300

    Quoted message said:

    £300-400

    Quoted message said:

    £400-500

    Frankly, nothing.

    A bike - any bike, but a racing bike in particular - is made up of three
    main bits: the frame, the wheels, and the mechanical parts often lumped
    together as 'the groupset' Once you realise that you'll be able to see that
    rather than a wide range of bikes in the under £500 area, there are
    actually only a few different 'value propositions'.

    Under £500 you are buying

    * An aluminium frame
    * A low end Shimano groupset - 105 at best
    * Cartridge bearing wheels

    There's nothing in principle wrong with any of these things. And if you're
    buying something to sit in the back of your shed except for a few sunny
    days in summer, it may be the best choice for you.

    If you're going to be riding significant distances, though, either a carbon
    fibre or a steel frame is preferable to aluminium because it will transmit
    less vibration to your hands and butt. People say that carbon or steel will
    give you a comfier ride - I'm not sure that this is true, but they do damp
    vibration a bit. And if you can't afford a carbon frame, carbon forks are a
    huge improvement over aluminium ones, and some improvement over steel.

    Better groupsets essentially give more precise gearchanges and don't go out
    of adjustment so quickly. You should be looking for Campagnolo Veloce or
    Centaur, Shimano Tiagra or Ultegra, or SRAM Rival. Obviously all three
    manufacturers produce better groupsets, but you get very nearly as good
    engineering in the middle groupsets with very much lower prices. I'd tend
    to avoid bikes which have a mix of components from half a dozen different
    groupsets, though; they're scraped together from whatever was left in the
    parts bin.

    Quoted message said:

    And does the weight of a bicycle really matter when compared to that
    of the rider?

    Yes.

    Quoted message said:

    5Lbs weight difference between two bikes isn't going to make much
    difference if the rider is 168 Lbs is it?

    Not in flat country, no. In theory it shouldn't make much difference in hill
    country either, but experience shows that it does.

    I'm thinking of perhaps buying a racer from the Revolution range by
    Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op which are supposedly good value:

    http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f%5FSortOrderID=1&f%5FWebLinkID=12370&f%5Fbct=c012372c012370&f%5Fpage=2

    What ya think?

    Quoted message said:

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke)http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
    ; gif ye hes forget our auld plane Scottis quhilk your mother lerit you,
    ; in tymes cuming I sall wryte to you my mind in Latin, for I am nocht
    ; acquyntit with your Southeron
        ;; Letter frae Ninian Winyet tae John Knox datit 27t October 1563

  17. Peter Clinch said:

    Plan A was a Giant Expression N7

    Ah. I reckon Giant are a special case; they have Autumn and Spring
    collections, rather than calendar year offerings. The Autumn
    collection was announced in August but the website has no mention of
    the Spring collection yet, which ties in with what your LBS said.

    Colin

  18. blackhead said:

    I'm thinking of perhaps buying a racer from the Revolution range by
    Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op which are supposedly good value:

    EBC own-brand stuff is generally reasonable value, but you get what
    you pay for. The Continental, for example, has pretty low-spec
    components but that's why it is £350. If you're happy with that,
    Chain Reaction are doing last year's BeOne Briza 2.0 (no, I'm not on
    commission) for £250 and it has a more or less identical spec. For
    £350 the Storm 3.0 has Sora kit rather than 2200 as well as carbon
    forks.

    Colin

  19. blackhead said:

    Just something to tour and get some exercise with and at the same time
    enjoyable to ride in all weathers. But at the same time "sexy"
    looking.

    In which case I'd look at something more like a tourer. Mudguards mean
    you don't covered in cack any time the road is wet, and a carrier means
    you can put any weight you're carting about (spare clothes, picnic lunch
    etc.) on the bike rather than on you, all of which means much more
    comfort at the expense of a little weight and air resistance. The
    riding position is usually a bit easier to keep up too, but again
    there'll be a speed compromise.

    Quoted message said:

    I'm thinking of perhaps buying a racer from the Revolution range by
    Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op which are supposedly good value:

    Quoted message said:

    What ya think?

    Check out their tourer too, the Revolution Country Traveller at £400.
    Mudguards and a rack aren't what most people would call sexy, but I
    can't say I find a brown stripe up someone's back that they're finding
    is aching a bit that desirable either... What a tourer like the Country
    does say is "proper bike", just a different value of it from a pure
    racer, and I suspect it will meet your stated requirements better than a
    racer.

    Also look out for the Dawes Horizon (very similar, and you may find some
    of last year's colour for a good saving).

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  20. Henry Lockwood said:


    Yes, it's the brake cables that go. I shall replace them this
    weekend, I think.

    Obviously the brake cables are the most important but I would do the
    gear cables at the same time. Mine broke in the actual lever itself and
    then the inch or so of frayed wire with the nipple on got stuck inside
    the lever. So I had to take the whole thing apart to get it out.

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.