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Rear tyre rubbing

Started by Josey · · Last activity · 13 posts · 404 views

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UK and Europe
Published
5 June 2007
Last activity
6 June 2007
Original author
Josey
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13
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  1. I'm servicing an old racing-style bike that a friend has just been given.

    After pumping up the rear tyre, it is too fat to fit to get any clearence
    between the bottom of the frame, and so just rubs on both sides. The tyres
    are 27 x 1&1/4. I guess the problem is the tyres are fatter than those
    intended for the bike?

    I can't move the wheel back in the dropout any further to get clearence as
    the bolt retaining the gear hanger uses up the small amount of space behind
    the axle.

    So, apart from recommending he buys a narrower tyre, is there any other
    solution?

    Thanks.

    Jc.


  2. Quoted message said:

    So, apart from recommending he buys a narrower tyre, is there any other
    solution?

    I tired to put tyres that were too big on this winter.I thought there
    could be a way around it to. There isn't. You simply need narrower
    ones.

  3. Nat said:
    Quoted message said:

    So, apart from recommending he buys a narrower tyre, is there any other
    solution?

    The frame's not for 700C wheels is it?

    Robert

  4. "BigRab" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Nat said:
    Quoted message said:

    So, apart from recommending he buys a narrower tyre, is there any other
    solution?

    The frame's not for 700C wheels is it?

    Robert


    It looks like the original wheels to me.

    So what size to go for? Presumably the widest that will fit, as he wants it
    for commuting not racing.

    The tyres that are too wide are 27x1&1/4 also labelled 630-32 (presumably in
    mm).

    So I guess I'm looking for 27x1 or 630-27 ?

    And a source of these tyres? I don't see any obviously on wiggle?

  5. Josey said:

    The tyres that are too wide are 27x1&1/4 also labelled 630-32 (presumably in
    mm).

    Quoted message said:

    And a source of these tyres? I don't see any obviously on wiggle?

    The bandits have 25s and 28s in 27" (630)

    sjscycles.co.ukcategory 27 (630) 203.htm

    But maybe a 700c wheel (which takes 622 tyres) would give more room
    for manouvre. Depends on the brakes of course but they might stretch
    another 4mm down and maybe on the drivetrain

    best wishes
    james

  6. Josey said:

    "BigRab" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Nat said:

    > So, apart from recommending he buys a narrower tyre, is there any
    > other solution?

    The frame's not for 700C wheels is it?

    Robert


    It looks like the original wheels to me.

    So what size to go for? Presumably the widest that will fit, as he
    wants it for commuting not racing.

    The tyres that are too wide are 27x1&1/4 also labelled 630-32
    (presumably in mm).

    So I guess I'm looking for 27x1 or 630-27 ?

    And a source of these tyres? I don't see any obviously on wiggle?

    As the other poster said, you're going to need a more specialist source,
    such as St Johns Street. Chances are other more traditional outlets might
    have them as well, such as Spa Cycles.

    Assuming you can get the brake blocks to drop another 4mm or so, I would
    suggest a set of 700c wheels might be the easier option as that is the
    current "road" standard, or even just a 700c rear if budget is tight.

    - Nigel

    --
    Nigel Cliffe,
    Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

  7. In article <[email hidden]>, Josey
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm servicing an old racing-style bike that a friend has just been given.

    After pumping up the rear tyre, it is too fat to fit to get any clearence
    between the bottom of the frame, and so just rubs on both sides. The tyres
    are 27 x 1&1/4. I guess the problem is the tyres are fatter than those
    intended for the bike?

    It's quite likely that the frame was intended for use with 700c wheels -
    frames for 27" wheels don't normally have close clearances.

    Quoted message said:


    I can't move the wheel back in the dropout any further to get clearence as
    the bolt retaining the gear hanger uses up the small amount of space behind
    the axle.

    So, apart from recommending he buys a narrower tyre, is there any other
    solution?


    You can file the back of the gear hanger bracket flat, and drill & tap
    a hole in the dropout for the bolt, so you don't lose any horizontal
    adjustment.
    You can gently crimp the chainstays if the tyre is only rubbing a little
    - ISTR Richard Ballantine suggesting that you do this with a C-clamp, a
    ball bearing and a piece of wood.

  8. "Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    You can file the back of the gear hanger bracket flat, and drill & tap
    a hole in the dropout for the bolt, so you don't lose any horizontal
    adjustment.

    Ah, yes that seems feasable, I have a tap set somewhere. Why would I need to
    file the bracket though? Maybe it's obvious when I look at it, but I don't
    have it hear ATM.

    Quoted message said:

    You can gently crimp the chainstays if the tyre is only rubbing a little
    - ISTR Richard Ballantine suggesting that you do this with a C-clamp, a
    ball bearing and a piece of wood.

    I''m sure I could do that too, maybe as well. Do you recall any details of
    the method? presumably the bearing is used on the inside to ensure the
    inside squeezes and the outside doesn't ? I don't have any traditional
    C-Clamps, but I have a vice, maybe that would do. I reckon I need to find at
    least another 2-3mm each side for reasonable clearance, assuming I true the
    wheel up too!

    Jc.

  9. In article <[email hidden]>, Josey
    jc@nospam says...

    Quoted message said:


    "Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    You can file the back of the gear hanger bracket flat, and drill & tap
    a hole in the dropout for the bolt, so you don't lose any horizontal
    adjustment.

    Ah, yes that seems feasable, I have a tap set somewhere. Why would I need to
    file the bracket though? Maybe it's obvious when I look at it, but I don't
    have it hear ATM.

    They usually have a little locating lug on the back.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    You can gently crimp the chainstays if the tyre is only rubbing a little
    - ISTR Richard Ballantine suggesting that you do this with a C-clamp, a
    ball bearing and a piece of wood.

    I''m sure I could do that too, maybe as well. Do you recall any details of
    the method? presumably the bearing is used on the inside to ensure the
    inside squeezes and the outside doesn't ?

    Indeed - 1/4" ball on the inside where you want the dent, piece of wood
    on the outside to protect the paint and prevent denting, and squeeze
    with the clamp.

    Quoted message said:

    I don't have any traditional C-Clamps, but I have a vice, maybe that would do.

    Possibly, if you just use a corner of the jaws - it depends how chunky
    your vice is. I'd suggest holding the ball and wood in place with
    sticky tape, so you have one hand free to position the frame and the
    other to crank the vice.

    Quoted message said:

    I reckon I need to find at
    least another 2-3mm each side for reasonable clearance, assuming I true the
    wheel up too!


    Don't forget the wheel will probably flex a bit under load, so you might
    need more than you think.

  10. "Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    Possibly, if you just use a corner of the jaws - it depends how chunky
    your vice is. I'd suggest holding the ball and wood in place with
    sticky tape, so you have one hand free to position the frame and the
    other to crank the vice.

    All good stuff, thanks. I taped the wood on one side, and as I had no
    bearings substituted a screwdriver bit as the load bearing surface. The vide
    was a small one so it just fitted. The job is done, and it's neat, didn't
    even crack the paint! There is adequate clearence without moving the hanger.

    Having looked at it today with the wheel out, the frame had clearly been
    intended for a smaller wheel, the existing crimping was much inside the
    radius of the wheel. I just elongated it.

    Thanks for the advice,

    Jc.

  11. In article <[email hidden]>, Josey
    [email hidden] says...
    <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    Having looked at it today with the wheel out, the frame had clearly been
    intended for a smaller wheel, the existing crimping was much inside the
    radius of the wheel. I just elongated it.


    Maybe it was for 26 x 1/4", which is 16.5mm smaller radius than 27 x
    1/4" - was that about the difference in position?

  12. "Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>, Josey
    [email hidden] says...
    <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    Having looked at it today with the wheel out, the frame had clearly been
    intended for a smaller wheel, the existing crimping was much inside the
    radius of the wheel. I just elongated it.


    Maybe it was for 26 x 1/4", which is 16.5mm smaller radius than 27 x
    1/4" - was that about the difference in position?

    Yes, of that order. Also I noticed the wheels must have been change
    sometime, as the brakes are at the top of the slots now, but have clearly
    been at the bottom in the past.

    Anyway, it's good now, and no cost, ideal.

    Jc.

  13. In article <[email hidden]>, Josey
    nospam@josey says...

    Quoted message said:


    "Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>, Josey
    [email hidden] says...
    <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    Having looked at it today with the wheel out, the frame had clearly been
    intended for a smaller wheel, the existing crimping was much inside the
    radius of the wheel. I just elongated it.


    Maybe it was for 26 x 1/4", which is 16.5mm smaller radius than 27 x
    1/4" - was that about the difference in position?

    Yes, of that order. Also I noticed the wheels must have been change
    sometime, as the brakes are at the top of the slots now, but have clearly
    been at the bottom in the past.

    Anyway, it's good now, and no cost, ideal.


    Excellent. :-)

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