Rear Rim Failure at 3600 Miles?!

"Jay - BFri Commuter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I *absolutely* do not believe I already have another significant bike
repair on my one-year-old Bike Friday, 3600 road miles, 225 lbs rider
weight. Do wheels (rims) typically fail at this point? I have rim brakes,
road commuting year-round. I try to avoid braking, in general. If I can
only use the front brake, that is what I do.

I have just noticed that my rear rim is split. There is a split on both
sides of the rear rim, approximately one inch in length, measured along
the axis that the rim brake pad makes contact with the rim. The split on
one side is 8 inches from the split on the other side (not directly
across). The tire is not losing air (yet). My camera is in my office desk,
and I am at home, so I can't post a link to a jpg of the split rim. I will
post a link tomorrow, as a reply in this thread.

I am interested in buying the most durable assembled rear wheel available,
regardless of weight. I want to buy a wheel online, and simply swap it out
with the damaged wheel. I will, of course, install a new tire on the new
wheel. I would like the best rim tape already installed on the new wheel.
Any particular vendor I should have build the wheel? I don't know if BF is
interested in this kind of work, but I am so disappointed in their OEM
parts right now, I can't see straight. But they hopefully have the
advantage of knowing what I am talking about.

Current rear wheel specs:

Sun AT18 20" wheel
11-28 Shimano cassette
Shimano Deore FH-M510 hub

Could someone help me with the specifics (what parts I need to request for
the new wheel). I am thinking Chris King for the hub, correct? I also need
quick release. Any specific spokes? Any thing else I need to specify? It
is clear at this point, the devil is absolutely in the details, and I
don't want any surprises at wheel swap time.

http://www.chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_index.html

If this is perfectly normal wear for my wheels, please let me know. But I
really did not expect wheel replacement at 3600 miles. Is 225 lbs rider
weight (+ 20 lbs cargo) pushing the ordinary load limit for a bike? - Am I
simply living in the land of Oz? - TIA - Newbie J.

I forgot to mention, 8-speed cassette - J.

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Jay - BFri Commuter" <[email hidden]> wrote in messagenews:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I *absolutely* do not believe I already have another significant bike
repair on my one-year-old Bike Friday, 3600 road miles, 225 lbs rider
weight. Do wheels (rims) typically fail at this point? I have rim brakes,
road commuting year-round. I try to avoid braking, in general. If I can
only use the front brake, that is what I do.

Quoted message said:

I have just noticed that my rear rim is split. There is a split on both
sides of the rear rim, approximately one inch in length, measured along
the axis that the rim brake pad makes contact with the rim. The split on
one side is 8 inches from the split on the other side (not directly
across). The tire is not losing air (yet). My camera is in my office desk,
and I am at home, so I can't post a link to a jpg of the split rim. I will
post a link tomorrow, as a reply in this thread.

Quoted message said:

I am interested in buying the most durable assembled rear wheel available,
regardless of weight. I want to buy a wheel online, and simply swap it out
with the damaged wheel. I will, of course, install a new tire on the new
wheel. I would like the best rim tape already installed on the new wheel.
Any particular vendor I should have build the wheel? I don't know if BF is
interested in this kind of work, but I am so disappointed in their OEM
parts right now, I can't see straight. But they hopefully have the
advantage of knowing what I am talking about.

Quoted message said:

Current rear wheel specs:

Quoted message said:

Sun AT18 20" wheel
11-28 Shimano cassette
Shimano Deore FH-M510 hub

Quoted message said:

Could someone help me with the specifics (what parts I need to request for
the new wheel). I am thinking Chris King for the hub, correct? I also need
quick release. Any specific spokes? Any thing else I need to specify? It
is clear at this point, the devil is absolutely in the details, and I
don't want any surprises at wheel swap time.

Quoted message said:

http://www.chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_index.html

Quoted message said:

If this is perfectly normal wear for my wheels, please let me know. But I
really did not expect wheel replacement at 3600 miles. Is 225 lbs rider
weight (+ 20 lbs cargo) pushing the ordinary load limit for a bike? - Am I
simply living in the land of Oz? - TIA - Newbie J.

I forgot to mention, 8-speed cassette - J.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Here are the pics of the rim:

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/rim-rear-left.jpg

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/rim-rear-right.jpg

If I continue to ride the bike with this rim, is the tube likely to
blow at any time? - J.

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Jay - BFri Commuter" <[email hidden]> wrote in messagenews:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I am interested in buying the most durable assembled rear wheel available,
regardless of weight. I want to buy a wheel online, and simply swap it out
with the damaged wheel.

Waitaminute...

You're in Chicago, right? Why not swing by Rapid Transit Cycle Shop? They
deal in BF, and can build you a new wheel, probably to any spec you desire.

--

__o Kristian Zoerhoff
_'\(,_ [email hidden]
(_)/ (_)

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Jay - BFri Commuter" <[email hidden]> wrote in
messagenews:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I *absolutely* do not believe I already have another significant bike
repair on my one-year-old Bike Friday, 3600 road miles, 225 lbs rider
weight. Do wheels (rims) typically fail at this point? I have rim
brakes,
road commuting year-round. I try to avoid braking, in general. If I can
only use the front brake, that is what I do.

Quoted message said:

I have just noticed that my rear rim is split. There is a split on both
sides of the rear rim, approximately one inch in length, measured along
the axis that the rim brake pad makes contact with the rim. The split
on
one side is 8 inches from the split on the other side (not directly
across). The tire is not losing air (yet). My camera is in my office
desk,
and I am at home, so I can't post a link to a jpg of the split rim. I
will
post a link tomorrow, as a reply in this thread.

Quoted message said:

I am interested in buying the most durable assembled rear wheel
available,
regardless of weight. I want to buy a wheel online, and simply swap it
out
with the damaged wheel. I will, of course, install a new tire on the
new
wheel. I would like the best rim tape already installed on the new
wheel.
Any particular vendor I should have build the wheel? I don't know if BF
is
interested in this kind of work, but I am so disappointed in their OEM
parts right now, I can't see straight. But they hopefully have the
advantage of knowing what I am talking about.

Quoted message said:

Current rear wheel specs:

Quoted message said:

Sun AT18 20" wheel
11-28 Shimano cassette
Shimano Deore FH-M510 hub

Quoted message said:

Could someone help me with the specifics (what parts I need to request
for
the new wheel). I am thinking Chris King for the hub, correct? I also
need
quick release. Any specific spokes? Any thing else I need to specify?
It
is clear at this point, the devil is absolutely in the details, and I
don't want any surprises at wheel swap time.

Quoted message said:

http://www.chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_index.html

Quoted message said:

If this is perfectly normal wear for my wheels, please let me know. But
I
really did not expect wheel replacement at 3600 miles. Is 225 lbs rider
weight (+ 20 lbs cargo) pushing the ordinary load limit for a bike? -
Am I
simply living in the land of Oz? - TIA - Newbie J.

I forgot to mention, 8-speed cassette - J.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Here are the pics of the rim:

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/rim-rear-left.jpg

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/rim-rear-right.jpg

If I continue to ride the bike with this rim, is the tube likely to
blow at any time? - J.

No but the wheel might fold up underneath you.

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Jay - BFri Commuter" <[email hidden]> wrote in messagenews:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

If this is perfectly normal wear for my wheels, please let me know. But I
really did not expect wheel replacement at 3600 miles. Is 225 lbs rider
weight (+ 20 lbs cargo) pushing the ordinary load limit for a bike? - Am I
simply living in the land of Oz? - TIA - Newbie J.

I am very very hard on equipment and I would consider 3600 miles
pathetic mileage to get out of a rim. I'd say the rim was defective.

Quoted message said:

Here are the pics of the rim:

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/rim-rear-left.jpg

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/rim-rear-right.jpg

If I continue to ride the bike with this rim, is the tube likely to
blow at any time? - J.

That rim is toast. Don't ride it.

--
Dane Buson - [email hidden]
I have learned silence from the talkative,
toleration from the intolerant, and kindness from the unkind.
-- Kahlil Gibran

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

I *absolutely* do not believe I already have another significant bike repair
on my one-year-old Bike Friday, 3600 road miles, 225 lbs rider weight. Do
wheels (rims) typically fail at this point? I have rim brakes, road
commuting year-round. I try to avoid braking, in general. If I can only use
the front brake, that is what I do.

I have just noticed that my rear rim is split. There is a split on both
sides of the rear rim, approximately one inch in length, measured along the
axis that the rim brake pad makes contact with the rim. The split on one
side is 8 inches from the split on the other side (not directly across). The
tire is not losing air (yet). My camera is in my office desk, and I am at
home, so I can't post a link to a jpg of the split rim. I will post a link
tomorrow, as a reply in this thread.

I am interested in buying the most durable assembled rear wheel available,
regardless of weight. I want to buy a wheel online, and simply swap it out
with the damaged wheel. I will, of course, install a new tire on the new
wheel. I would like the best rim tape already installed on the new wheel.
Any particular vendor I should have build the wheel? I don't know if BF is
interested in this kind of work, but I am so disappointed in their OEM parts
right now, I can't see straight. But they hopefully have the advantage of
knowing what I am talking about.

Current rear wheel specs:

Sun AT18 20" wheel
11-28 Shimano cassette
Shimano Deore FH-M510 hub

Could someone help me with the specifics (what parts I need to request for
the new wheel). I am thinking Chris King for the hub, correct? I also need
quick release. Any specific spokes? Any thing else I need to specify? It is
clear at this point, the devil is absolutely in the details, and I don't
want any surprises at wheel swap time.

http://www.chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_index.html

If this is perfectly normal wear for my wheels, please let me know. But I
really did not expect wheel replacement at 3600 miles. Is 225 lbs rider
weight (+ 20 lbs cargo) pushing the ordinary load limit for a bike? - Am I
simply living in the land of Oz? - TIA - Newbie J.

Jay,

Based on the pictures this looks like wear caused by brake pad
abrasion with entrapped dirt. You must be riding a lot of the time in
wet conditions which tends to keep road grit on the wheels.

If you hit the brakes and it sounds like sandpaper on aluminum it is!
Switch to Kool Stop *Salmon* colored brake pads - Problem solved or at
least greatly reduced.

Steve

"Kristian M Zoerhoff" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Jay - BFri Commuter" <[email hidden]> wrote in
messagenews:[email hidden]...

> I am interested in buying the most durable assembled rear wheel
> available,
> regardless of weight. I want to buy a wheel online, and simply swap it
> out
> with the damaged wheel.

Waitaminute...

You're in Chicago, right? Why not swing by Rapid Transit Cycle Shop? They
deal in BF, and can build you a new wheel, probably to any spec you
desire.

--

__o Kristian Zoerhoff
_'\(,_ [email hidden]
(_)/ (_)

Thanks for the reminder, K;

I had forgotten about http://www.rapidtransitcycles.com/ . They are somewhat
out of my way, so I had never been there. I went there today and placed the
new wheel order. So I will use the new wheel as primary, and have the old
wheel as a spare. Of course, I will need to replace the rim on the old
wheel. I will probably have a shop do it when they are not busy, in the
winter.

I knew CK hubs were more $, but I did not know they are actually $$$. So I
spec-ed a slight hub upgrade. I don't have any reason to believe the current
hub is bad, anyway. Just the rim. But I can't do without the bike, otherwise
I would be walking 15 miles daily, and that is just too boring. So I will
have an extra wheel - not necessarily bad - J.

"nash" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:e8o_h.156776$6m4.71825@pd7urf1no...

Quoted message said:

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Jay - BFri Commuter" <[email hidden]> wrote in
messagenews:[email hidden]...

>I *absolutely* do not believe I already have another significant bike
>repair on my one-year-old Bike Friday, 3600 road miles, 225 lbs rider
>weight. Do wheels (rims) typically fail at this point? I have rim
>brakes,
>road commuting year-round. I try to avoid braking, in general. If I can
>only use the front brake, that is what I do.

> I have just noticed that my rear rim is split. There is a split on
> both
> sides of the rear rim, approximately one inch in length, measured
> along
> the axis that the rim brake pad makes contact with the rim. The split
> on
> one side is 8 inches from the split on the other side (not directly
> across). The tire is not losing air (yet). My camera is in my office
> desk,
> and I am at home, so I can't post a link to a jpg of the split rim. I
> will
> post a link tomorrow, as a reply in this thread.

> I am interested in buying the most durable assembled rear wheel
> available,
> regardless of weight. I want to buy a wheel online, and simply swap it
> out
> with the damaged wheel. I will, of course, install a new tire on the
> new
> wheel. I would like the best rim tape already installed on the new
> wheel.
> Any particular vendor I should have build the wheel? I don't know if
> BF is
> interested in this kind of work, but I am so disappointed in their OEM
> parts right now, I can't see straight. But they hopefully have the
> advantage of knowing what I am talking about.

> Current rear wheel specs:

> Sun AT18 20" wheel
> 11-28 Shimano cassette
> Shimano Deore FH-M510 hub

> Could someone help me with the specifics (what parts I need to request
> for
> the new wheel). I am thinking Chris King for the hub, correct? I also
> need
> quick release. Any specific spokes? Any thing else I need to specify?
> It
> is clear at this point, the devil is absolutely in the details, and I
> don't want any surprises at wheel swap time.

>http://www.chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_index.html

> If this is perfectly normal wear for my wheels, please let me know.
> But I
> really did not expect wheel replacement at 3600 miles. Is 225 lbs
> rider
> weight (+ 20 lbs cargo) pushing the ordinary load limit for a bike? -
> Am I
> simply living in the land of Oz? - TIA - Newbie J.

I forgot to mention, 8-speed cassette - J.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Here are the pics of the rim:

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/rim-rear-left.jpg

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/rim-rear-right.jpg

If I continue to ride the bike with this rim, is the tube likely to
blow at any time? - J.

No but the wheel might fold up underneath you.

Thanks Nash,

That possibility had not occurred to me, but I am very glad you pointed it
out. If I can baby this wheel for 10 days or so, I will have my new wheel. I
will watch for further deterioration daily. Worst case scenario, maybe the
hospital has Internet access for patients - J.

"Dane Buson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Jay - BFri Commuter" <[email hidden]> wrote in
messagenews:[email hidden]...

> If this is perfectly normal wear for my wheels, please let me know.
> But I
> really did not expect wheel replacement at 3600 miles. Is 225 lbs
> rider
> weight (+ 20 lbs cargo) pushing the ordinary load limit for a bike? -
> Am I
> simply living in the land of Oz? - TIA - Newbie J.

I am very very hard on equipment and I would consider 3600 miles
pathetic mileage to get out of a rim. I'd say the rim was defective.

Quoted message said:

Here are the pics of the rim:

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/rim-rear-left.jpg

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/rim-rear-right.jpg

If I continue to ride the bike with this rim, is the tube likely to
blow at any time? - J.

That rim is toast. Don't ride it.

--
Dane Buson - [email hidden]
I have learned silence from the talkative,
toleration from the intolerant, and kindness from the unkind.
-- Kahlil Gibran

Hi Dane,

I'm sure your advice is prudent, reasonable, and coming from a bike expert.
I am reckless by nature, devil may care. But I do like to know what I can
expect - J.

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

I am hearing a range of opinions about whether this particular rim failure,
at these miles, is normal wear, or due to some defect. Owen at this shop
http://www.rapidtransitcycles.com/ said it is more or less normal wear, for
my daily year-round commute, all conditions. Looks like this is just an
additional cost of my inter-modal commute, for which I had not budgeted.
Still way cheaper than driving - J.

I'm about your size. My Specialized H-R started giving me rear wheel
problems at around 4000 miles. In my case it was frequent broken spokes.
The guy at the LBS talked me into replacing the wheel with a Sunrim Rhyno,
which he said is what the local bicycle cops have. This bike is now
sneaking up on 10,000 miles, with no further problems in this department.
I'll defer to the experts on the group on this point, but I understand
that there are such things as single, double, and triple-strength rims.
You should probably get something tougher than you currently have.
My front wheel, incidentally, is still the original. They carry far
less weight than rears.

Bill

__o | REALLY support the troops
_`\(,_ | Ride a bicycle!
(_)/ (_) |

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

I am hearing a range of opinions about whether this particular rim failure,
at these miles, is normal wear, or due to some defect. Owen at this shop
http://www.rapidtransitcycles.com/ said it is more or less normal wear, for
my daily year-round commute, all conditions. Looks like this is just an
additional cost of my inter-modal commute, for which I had not budgeted.
Still way cheaper than driving - J.

I'm about your size. My Specialized H-R started giving me rear wheel
problems at around 4000 miles. In my case it was frequent broken spokes.
The guy at the LBS talked me into replacing the wheel with a Sunrim Rhyno,
which he said is what the local bicycle cops have. This bike is now
sneaking up on 10,000 miles, with no further problems in this department.
I'll defer to the experts on the group on this point, but I understand
that there are such things as single, double, and triple-strength rims.
You should probably get something tougher than you currently have.
My front wheel, incidentally, is still the original. They carry far
less weight than rears.

Bill

__o | REALLY support the troops
_`\(,_ | Ride a bicycle!
(_)/ (_) |

I am glad to hear you say that Bill;

When I told Owen at the RTC shop that I wanted a more durable rim,
that is the same rim he said I should use. So Kristian's suggestion
that I have the wheel built at RTC looks like a good idea. I had the
feeling that those RTC guys are really serious about bikes, not just
watching the clock. And they were busy when I went there - always a
good sign.

I think my OEM rims, like all the OEM components on my BF Pocket
Tourist, are best suited for 120lb women who only ride short
distances, on a paved path at the forest preserve, on sunny summer
days. Not durable enough for my 225lbs + cargo, riding 15 miles daily,
year round, all conditions, on city streets. As I have been
replacing / upgrading component after component for the past year, I
would think to myself, at least the wheels are holding up...SURPRISE!
- j.

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Dane Buson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

If I continue to ride the bike with this rim, is the tube likely to
blow at any time? - J.

That rim is toast. Don't ride it.

I'm sure your advice is prudent, reasonable, and coming from a bike expert.
I am reckless by nature, devil may care. But I do like to know what I can
expect.

Heh, I understand. Many is the time I've ridden partially functional
equipment till I can get it replaced.

If it was the front wheel I'd be more vehement. Since it's the rear,
I'd just suggest making sure you have cab/bus fare in your wallet.

--
Dane Buson - [email hidden]
A university is what a college becomes when the faculty loses interest
in students.
-- John Ciardi

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Steve Sr." <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

If you hit the brakes and it sounds like sandpaper on aluminum it is!
Switch to Kool Stop *Salmon* colored brake pads - Problem solved or at
least greatly reduced.

I'll second the recommendation for them. They do extend rim life, and
they're good in the wet.

Quoted message said:

On those bad wet winter days, when I get work, I put the bike on my repair
stand and clean/lube. (I have a storeroom behind my office, which I can use
for this purpose.) In the dead of a Chicago winter, this daily routine gets
old sometime in late February. But I always at least clean my rims when I
get to my destination (either home or the office). I have heard the sound
you describe, and I agree it is alarming. Clearly a warning.

Quoted message said:

I am hearing a range of opinions about whether this particular rim failure,
at these miles, is normal wear, or due to some defect. Owen at this shop
http://www.rapidtransitcycles.com/ said it is more or less normal wear, for
my daily year-round commute, all conditions. Looks like this is just an
additional cost of my inter-modal commute, for which I had not budgeted.
Still way cheaper than driving - J.

You might consider replacing it with something like an internal gear hub
with drum brake. That would greatly simplify your drive train and mean
you would not be causing rim wear with braking. Drum brakes work very
well for small wheel bikes.

It would be more expensive, but on the other hand, it should last many
many years without trouble.

I'd suggest the SRAM S7 drum hub:
http://store.airbomb.com/ItemDesc.asp?IC=HU2542

You would need a shifter for it also:
http://store.airbomb.com/ItemDesc.asp?IC=LD2541

--
Dane Buson - [email hidden]
Pittsburgh driver's test

(2) A traffic light at an intersection changes from yellow to red, you should

(a) stop immediately.
(b) proceed slowly through the intersection.
(c) blow the horn.
(d) floor it.

The correct answer is (d). If you said (c), you were almost right, so
give yourself a half point.

"Dane Buson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Switch to Kool Stop *Salmon* colored brake pads - Problem solved or at
least greatly reduced.

I'll second the recommendation for them. They do extend rim life, and
they're good in the wet.

Maybe I should get them. I was going down a quiet side street today while it
was pouring rain. The street intersects with another equally quiet street in
a T, and generally, there's no traffic. Except today, there was a car, and I
was simply not expecting it. I managed to stop in time, but it was a little
dicey.

O' course right now, it's blue sky and sunny...

--
Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky
http://www.bicyclemeditations.org/
See the books I've set free at: http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky

"Steve Sr." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

I *absolutely* do not believe I already have another significant bike
repair
on my one-year-old Bike Friday, 3600 road miles, 225 lbs rider weight. Do
wheels (rims) typically fail at this point? I have rim brakes, road
commuting year-round. I try to avoid braking, in general. If I can only
use
the front brake, that is what I do.

I have just noticed that my rear rim is split. There is a split on both
sides of the rear rim, approximately one inch in length, measured along
the
axis that the rim brake pad makes contact with the rim. The split on one
side is 8 inches from the split on the other side (not directly across).
The
tire is not losing air (yet). My camera is in my office desk, and I am at
home, so I can't post a link to a jpg of the split rim. I will post a link
tomorrow, as a reply in this thread.

I am interested in buying the most durable assembled rear wheel available,
regardless of weight. I want to buy a wheel online, and simply swap it out
with the damaged wheel. I will, of course, install a new tire on the new
wheel. I would like the best rim tape already installed on the new wheel.
Any particular vendor I should have build the wheel? I don't know if BF is
interested in this kind of work, but I am so disappointed in their OEM
parts
right now, I can't see straight. But they hopefully have the advantage of
knowing what I am talking about.

Current rear wheel specs:

Sun AT18 20" wheel
11-28 Shimano cassette
Shimano Deore FH-M510 hub

Could someone help me with the specifics (what parts I need to request for
the new wheel). I am thinking Chris King for the hub, correct? I also need
quick release. Any specific spokes? Any thing else I need to specify? It
is
clear at this point, the devil is absolutely in the details, and I don't
want any surprises at wheel swap time.

http://www.chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_index.html

If this is perfectly normal wear for my wheels, please let me know. But I
really did not expect wheel replacement at 3600 miles. Is 225 lbs rider
weight (+ 20 lbs cargo) pushing the ordinary load limit for a bike? - Am I
simply living in the land of Oz? - TIA - Newbie J.

Jay,

Based on the pictures this looks like wear caused by brake pad
abrasion with entrapped dirt. You must be riding a lot of the time in
wet conditions which tends to keep road grit on the wheels.

If you hit the brakes and it sounds like sandpaper on aluminum it is!
Switch to Kool Stop *Salmon* colored brake pads - Problem solved or at
least greatly reduced.

Steve

Hi Steve,

OK, I am sold on Kool Stop brake pads. But I am also confused, which is my
normal state when it comes to bikes.

From the Kool Stop website http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php , it
looks like I should go with Tectonic or MTB Pad. I currently have Avid
Single Digit Ultimate brakes (side-pull V-type). My new rim will be
'Sun-Ringle Rhyno Lite XL'. I am probably going to have my LBS (RTC) also
build a new front wheel for me, so both rims and hubs will be black (I
really like black stuff). Plus, I don't want to wait for the front rim to
split. I like to be proactive, not reactive, when I can afford it. I am VERY
ill at ease riding on the split rear rim, but my other options are walk 15
miles daily, or stay home from work.

I could not care less how much brake pads cost. But I am trying to maximize
RIM life. If that means I need to replace brake pads more often, that is
OK - it is simple and much cheaper than new rims.

Q: Is there any reason why I should not run Salmon pads (extreme
conditions - wet, mud, dry) all year round? Is it simply that they wear out
faster in dry conditions? I can live with that. If it is a question of being
able to stop quickly, I have never had a problem stopping quickly enough. I
don't ride as fast as the regulars here. I am commuting, not racing.

I don't think I need to tweak my pads like the Tectonics. I want to just
install the pads and forget about them, until they wear out, then replace
the entire pad.

But if I do go with the Tectonics, are the 'friction materials' sold
separately? So one could run 'all Salmon', for instance? - Befuddled J.

"Dane Buson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Steve Sr." <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

If you hit the brakes and it sounds like sandpaper on aluminum it is!
Switch to Kool Stop *Salmon* colored brake pads - Problem solved or at
least greatly reduced.

I'll second the recommendation for them. They do extend rim life, and
they're good in the wet.

Quoted message said:

On those bad wet winter days, when I get work, I put the bike on my
repair
stand and clean/lube. (I have a storeroom behind my office, which I can
use
for this purpose.) In the dead of a Chicago winter, this daily routine
gets
old sometime in late February. But I always at least clean my rims when I
get to my destination (either home or the office). I have heard the sound
you describe, and I agree it is alarming. Clearly a warning.

Quoted message said:

I am hearing a range of opinions about whether this particular rim
failure,
at these miles, is normal wear, or due to some defect. Owen at this shop
http://www.rapidtransitcycles.com/ said it is more or less normal wear,
for
my daily year-round commute, all conditions. Looks like this is just an
additional cost of my inter-modal commute, for which I had not budgeted.
Still way cheaper than driving - J.

You might consider replacing it with something like an internal gear hub
with drum brake. That would greatly simplify your drive train and mean
you would not be causing rim wear with braking. Drum brakes work very
well for small wheel bikes.

It would be more expensive, but on the other hand, it should last many
many years without trouble.

I'd suggest the SRAM S7 drum hub:
http://store.airbomb.com/ItemDesc.asp?IC=HU2542

You would need a shifter for it also:
http://store.airbomb.com/ItemDesc.asp?IC=LD2541

--
Dane Buson - [email hidden]
Pittsburgh driver's test

(2) A traffic light at an intersection changes from yellow to red, you
should

(a) stop immediately.
(b) proceed slowly through the intersection.
(c) blow the horn.
(d) floor it.

The correct answer is (d). If you said (c), you were almost right, so
give yourself a half point.

Hi Dane,

My new hub supports disk brakes, but my LBS (RTC) says I would need major
retrofit work to convert this bike from rim to disk brakes. Rather, I am
thinking about a 2nd bike, which will probably have disk brakes - not
decided yet. It might be Dahon...regular contributers might think to
themselves...USA First Jay is thinking about going CHINESE? - but I am not
ruling out BF for folder #2 - I will certainly see what they can do for me
before I pull the trigger - but it is hard for a small Oregon bike mfr to
compete with slave labor at $2/hr - J.

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Dane Buson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

You might consider replacing it with something like an internal gear hub
with drum brake. That would greatly simplify your drive train and mean
you would not be causing rim wear with braking. Drum brakes work very
well for small wheel bikes.

It would be more expensive, but on the other hand, it should last many
many years without trouble.

I'd suggest the SRAM S7 drum hub:
http://store.airbomb.com/ItemDesc.asp?IC=HU2542

You would need a shifter for it also:
http://store.airbomb.com/ItemDesc.asp?IC=LD2541

Quoted message said:

My new hub supports disk brakes, but my LBS (RTC) says I would need major
retrofit work to convert this bike from rim to disk brakes. Rather, I am
thinking about a 2nd bike, which will probably have disk brakes - not
decided yet. It might be Dahon...regular contributers might think to
themselves...USA First Jay is thinking about going CHINESE? - but I am not
ruling out BF for folder #2 - I will certainly see what they can do for me
before I pull the trigger - but it is hard for a small Oregon bike mfr to
compete with slave labor at $2/hr - J.

What I'm talking about are *drum* brakes, not disc brakes. They are
quite different. You don't need a special frame for drum brakes, they
simply use a reaction arm that is fastened to the chainstay.

That's why I suggested that hub.

--
Dane Buson - [email hidden]
"You know you're a loser when you try to sell your soul to
the devil and he asks you for your credit card number."

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

I *absolutely* do not believe I already have another significant bike repair
on my one-year-old Bike Friday, 3600 road miles, 225 lbs rider weight. Do
wheels (rims) typically fail at this point? I have rim brakes, road
commuting year-round. I try to avoid braking, in general. If I can only use
the front brake, that is what I do.

I have just noticed that my rear rim is split. There is a split on both
sides of the rear rim, approximately one inch in length, measured along the
axis that the rim brake pad makes contact with the rim. The split on one
side is 8 inches from the split on the other side (not directly across). The
tire is not losing air (yet). My camera is in my office desk, and I am at
home, so I can't post a link to a jpg of the split rim. I will post a link
tomorrow, as a reply in this thread.

I am interested in buying the most durable assembled rear wheel available,
regardless of weight. I want to buy a wheel online, and simply swap it out
with the damaged wheel. I will, of course, install a new tire on the new
wheel. I would like the best rim tape already installed on the new wheel.
Any particular vendor I should have build the wheel? I don't know if BF is
interested in this kind of work, but I am so disappointed in their OEM parts
right now, I can't see straight. But they hopefully have the advantage of
knowing what I am talking about.

Current rear wheel specs:

Sun AT18 20" wheel
11-28 Shimano cassette
Shimano Deore FH-M510 hub

Could someone help me with the specifics (what parts I need to request for
the new wheel). I am thinking Chris King for the hub, correct? I also need
quick release. Any specific spokes? Any thing else I need to specify? It is
clear at this point, the devil is absolutely in the details, and I don't
want any surprises at wheel swap time.

http://www.chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_index.html

If this is perfectly normal wear for my wheels, please let me know. But I
really did not expect wheel replacement at 3600 miles. Is 225 lbs rider
weight (+ 20 lbs cargo) pushing the ordinary load limit for a bike? - Am I
simply living in the land of Oz? - TIA - Newbie J.

Jay,

Based on the pictures this looks like wear caused by brake pad
abrasion with entrapped dirt. You must be riding a lot of the time in
wet conditions which tends to keep road grit on the wheels.

If you hit the brakes and it sounds like sandpaper on aluminum it is!
Switch to Kool Stop *Salmon* colored brake pads - Problem solved or at
least greatly reduced.

Steve

"Dane Buson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jay - BFri Commuter said:

"Dane Buson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

You might consider replacing it with something like an internal gear hub
with drum brake. That would greatly simplify your drive train and mean
you would not be causing rim wear with braking. Drum brakes work very
well for small wheel bikes.

It would be more expensive, but on the other hand, it should last many
many years without trouble.

I'd suggest the SRAM S7 drum hub:
http://store.airbomb.com/ItemDesc.asp?IC=HU2542

You would need a shifter for it also:
http://store.airbomb.com/ItemDesc.asp?IC=LD2541

Quoted message said:

My new hub supports disk brakes, but my LBS (RTC) says I would need major
retrofit work to convert this bike from rim to disk brakes. Rather, I am
thinking about a 2nd bike, which will probably have disk brakes - not
decided yet. It might be Dahon...regular contributers might think to
themselves...USA First Jay is thinking about going CHINESE? - but I am
not
ruling out BF for folder #2 - I will certainly see what they can do for
me
before I pull the trigger - but it is hard for a small Oregon bike mfr to
compete with slave labor at $2/hr - J.

What I'm talking about are *drum* brakes, not disc brakes. They are
quite different. You don't need a special frame for drum brakes, they
simply use a reaction arm that is fastened to the chainstay.

That's why I suggested that hub.

--
Dane Buson - [email hidden]
"You know you're a loser when you try to sell your soul to
the devil and he asks you for your credit card number."

I need to do some homework regarding brake systems. I will certainly think
about drum brakes for folder #2. I really need a second bike, in case one of
them has to go into the shop for a repair that I cannot do myself.

I also need to do some homework in general before buying folder #2. I chose
BF because they were near the top of a google search. Perhaps not the best
way to chose a bike - J.