rear mech scapes spokes... ?????

In article <[email hidden]>

Keyser Sose said:

Guys,
After an accident I had two weeks ago (healing up well) I had to replace my
front left shiftter. All's fine with that. However, I now find that when
on my small chain ring and large rear sprocket, the derallier cage lightly
scrapes on the rear spokes ??? If I go no further than the second largest
sprocket it doesn't do this. Nothing looks bent. What could be causing
that? I have had a bit of a scout on the web and can't find anything on
this problem yet. I also have the same issue with my winter bike.

Something /is/ bent - either the rear mech or the hanger. Have the
frame checked for hanger alignment by someone who has the tool to do
this, and if the problem doesn't go away replace the derailleur.

Keyser Sose said:

Guys,
After an accident I had two weeks ago (healing up well) I had to replace my
front left shiftter. All's fine with that. However, I now find that when
on my small chain ring and large rear sprocket, the derallier cage lightly
scrapes on the rear spokes ??? If I go no further than the second largest
sprocket it doesn't do this. Nothing looks bent. What could be causing
that? I have had a bit of a scout on the web and can't find anything on
this problem yet. I also have the same issue with my winter bike.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, Steve

Could be that you've slightly bent the rear mech hanger - it should be
perfectly vertical. If this is the case and it's a steel frame, you
should be able to straighten this without problem. A new hanger may be
required on an alu frame.

If the hanger appears to be okay then your stops on the rear mech might
just need adjusting - there are generally 2 screws on the rear mech, one
of which prevents the mech from moving too close to the wheel (and
causing the problem you mention) - adjust this so the mech is stopped
before this happens.

HTH.

Wheelist

Guys,
Thanks for the replies. Just been outside and had a chat to a biking buddy
down the street and compared his rear mech to mine. You guys were correct -
the rear mech cage is bent. When I looked vertically down on the chain and
the top jockey wheel, the bottom jockey wheel was about 1cm further towards
the spokes. A bit of brute force and ignorance was required - I grabbed the
bugger and bent it back (it is a alu frame) !!! Seems ok now, though I
havn't ridden it as yet. Maybe the hanger is slightly bent too. However, I
can change all the gears with the bike on my workstand.

If I should have top replace the rear mech, is it possible to do so withut
braking teh chain? I am a bit worried about having to do that. Is this
worry unfounded?

Thanks, Steve

"Keyser Sose" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Guys,
After an accident I had two weeks ago (healing up well) I had to replace
my front left shiftter. All's fine with that. However, I now find that
when on my small chain ring and large rear sprocket, the derallier cage
lightly scrapes on the rear spokes ??? If I go no further than the second
largest sprocket it doesn't do this. Nothing looks bent. What could be
causing that? I have had a bit of a scout on the web and can't find
anything on this problem yet. I also have the same issue with my winter
bike.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, Steve

Quoted message said:

If I should have top replace the rear mech, is it possible to do so
withut braking teh chain?

No.

Quoted message said:

I am a bit worried about having to do that. Is this worry unfounded?

Yes, unless you completely remove the pin from the chain. Then you'll
spend the next half hour trying to a) find the bggr and b) get it back in
it's little hole.

If the chain doesn't have one already, fit a powerlink or similar. These
make it easy to break and rejoin the chain. LBS'll sell you one for a quid
or two, or alternatively I think they come with SRAM chains.

"Mark Thompson"
<pleasegivegenerously@warmmail*_turn_up_the_heat_to_reply*.com> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

If I should have top replace the rear mech, is it possible to do so
withut braking teh chain?

No.

Quoted message said:

I am a bit worried about having to do that. Is this worry unfounded?

Yes, unless you completely remove the pin from the chain. Then you'll
spend the next half hour trying to a) find the bggr and b) get it back in
it's little hole.

If the chain doesn't have one already, fit a powerlink or similar. These
make it easy to break and rejoin the chain. LBS'll sell you one for a
quid
or two, or alternatively I think they come with SRAM chains.

Hi,
Is it possible to use these powerlinks on a Campag chain? Will these SRAM
chainms work with Campag groupsets. I am sure you have gathered that I am
new to bike maintennance !!!

In article <[email hidden]>

Keyser Sose said:

Guys,
Thanks for the replies. Just been outside and had a chat to a biking buddy
down the street and compared his rear mech to mine. You guys were correct -
the rear mech cage is bent. When I looked vertically down on the chain and
the top jockey wheel, the bottom jockey wheel was about 1cm further towards
the spokes. A bit of brute force and ignorance was required - I grabbed the
bugger and bent it back (it is a alu frame) !!! Seems ok now, though I
havn't ridden it as yet. Maybe the hanger is slightly bent too. However, I
can change all the gears with the bike on my workstand.

Sounds good enough :-) I tend to go the brute force way too, but there
are so many ways in which a rear mech can be out of alignment that it
doesn't always work.

Quoted message said:

If I should have top replace the rear mech, is it possible to do so withut
braking teh chain?

All you have to do is remove the lower jockey wheel and replace it with
the chain behind it. Some mechs have a single-sided arm so you don't
need to undo anything.

Quoted message said:

I am a bit worried about having to do that. Is this
worry unfounded?

Depends on the chain - if the pins are peened over there will be a
special joining link somewhere, which is the only one you should remove.
Some of these joining links are single-use, so it's best to replace them
with reusable links, of which there are several varieties and widths
available - make sure the one you get fits your chain properly.
If the pins aren't peened over you can split the chain anywhere you
want.
Make sure you don't push the pin too far - if it comes right out it's
not easy to get it back in. I tend to push it not quite enough to clear
the inner link, so a slight twist is needed to separate the chain - this
makes it much easier to reassemble as you can click the chain together
and it will stay there while you fiddle with the chain tool.

Mark Thompson said:

Quoted message said:

If I should have top replace the rear mech, is it possible to do so
withut braking teh chain?

No.

Well you /can/ but it's probably more trouble than it's worth.

Though having said that, this is precisely how I shall be entertaining
myself this evening, as I've got to fit new pulleys to the trike's
derailleur anyway...

--
Dave Larrington
<http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
There's a village in Texas that's missing its idiot.

Mark Thompson said:

Keyser Sose said:

If I should have top replace the rear mech, is it possible to do so
withut braking teh chain?

No.

Sorry but you can, it's a lot of faffing but it can be done.
--

www.cheesesoup.myby.co.uk

Keyser Sose said:

Is it possible to use these powerlinks on a Campag chain?

It's possible and good to use a SRAM 9-speed Powerlink with a Campag C9
chain. I expect an 8-speed one would work with an 8sp Campag chain too,
though I can't remember if I ever tried that.

I'll be finding out soon how well a Connex Shimano-type 10-speed link works
with a Campag Ultra Narrow 10-speed chain. (The Connex Campag version is
meant for the Connex Campag-compatible 10-speed chain that is wider than the
Shimano and the Ultra Narrow).

If worried about rejoining the chain safely, instead fit the mech by taking
the jockey wheels and back plate off. It's a fiddly job like that but at
least you'll know everything is safe. Chain damage can be subtle and cause
a failure at a later date. Take the chain off the chainrings to provide
slack.

Quoted message said:

Will these SRAM chainms work with Campag groupsets.

Yes, as long as the "speed" is correct. I think Campag chains last longer
though. On the other hand, a new SRAM chain is more likely to work with
worn sprockets than a new Campag one.

Quoted message said:

I am sure you have gathered
that I am new to bike maintennance !!!

You won't be after this job :-)

Check out these sites:

www.parktool.com/repair/bikemap.asp

www.sheldonbrown.com

~PB

soup said:

Sorry but you can, it's a lot of faffing but it can be done.

I think the most helpful answer is that breaking the chain is the
/easiest/ way - the alternative being to dismantle the rear mech cage.

When I was young and foolish, and didn't know about chain tools, I once
broke a chain with a hacksaw. It was a hellish job. And the chain really
was well and truly broken by the time I finished...

Nowadays, I not only know about chain tools, I also know about
Powerlinks. Breaking a chain takes a few seconds, putting it back
together the same.

d.

in message <[email hidden]>, Keyser Sose

(') said:

Guys,
After an accident I had two weeks ago (healing up well) I had to replace
my
front left shiftter. All's fine with that. However, I now find that
when on my small chain ring and large rear sprocket, the derallier cage
lightly
scrapes on the rear spokes ???

Fix it at once. If it gets caught in the spokes, that's /very/ expensive,
up to and including writing off the derailleur, wheel and frame.

Quoted message said:

If I go no further than the second
largest
sprocket it doesn't do this. Nothing looks bent. What could be causing
that?

Could be the low limit screw on the derailleur; however, as it's happend
since a crash I suspect something (either dropout or derailleur cage) is
bent. Take it to a /good/ bike mechanic, and get it checked for alignment.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

:: Wisdom is better than weapons of war ::
:: Ecclesiastes 9:18 ::

in message <[email hidden]>, Keyser Sose ([email hidden]'😉

Quoted message said:

Guys,
Thanks for the replies. Just been outside and had a chat to a biking
buddy
down the street and compared his rear mech to mine. You guys were
correct -
the rear mech cage is bent. When I looked vertically down on the chain
and the top jockey wheel, the bottom jockey wheel was about 1cm further
towards
the spokes. A bit of brute force and ignorance was required - I grabbed
the
bugger and bent it back (it is a alu frame) !!! Seems ok now, though I
havn't ridden it as yet. Maybe the hanger is slightly bent too.
However, I can change all the gears with the bike on my workstand.

If I should have top replace the rear mech, is it possible to do so
withut
braking teh chain? I am a bit worried about having to do that. Is this
worry unfounded?

It's possible, but except 9 and 10 speed chains breaking and rejoining a
chain isn't particularly exciting. For nine or ten speed you need very
good quality chain tools. Magic links are a good investment.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

I shall continue to be an impossible person so long as those
who are now possible remain possible -- Michael Bakunin