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Rear Mech Advice wanted

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UK and Europe
Published
15 May 2006
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17 May 2006
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Julesh
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  1. Some time ago I bought an old road bike from Ebay as I wanted something
    to learn to do my own maintenance on (using other components also bought
    on EBay!)

    Having just replaced the freewheel and chain I'm now minded to scrap the
    old, cheap and somewhat warped rear mech - A nasty looking thing
    labelled Shimano SIS - with something else.

    The trouble is I don't know what to replace it with as I don't know how
    to tell which rear mechs are designed for MTB's and which are for road
    bikes, or even if it matters?

    The current setup is a 6 sprocket 14-28 with friction shifters. I might
    like to change the rear, downtube shifter, to an indexed shifter at some
    point in the future. I understand that Shimano and Campagnolo are not
    compatible in this case.

    If anyone has a moment and can point me in the direction of some
    suitable products I would be most grateful.

    TIA

    Julesh

  2. Julesh said:

    Some time ago I bought an old road bike from Ebay as I wanted
    something to learn to do my own maintenance on (using other
    components also bought on EBay!)

    Having just replaced the freewheel and chain I'm now minded to scrap
    the old, cheap and somewhat warped rear mech - A nasty looking thing
    labelled Shimano SIS - with something else.

    The trouble is I don't know what to replace it with as I don't know
    how to tell which rear mechs are designed for MTB's and which are for
    road bikes, or even if it matters?

    They're basically the same except MTB ones tend to cope with larger
    sprockets and wider gear ranges. Same thing to a lesser extent with road
    triples aka road long cage mechs.

    The current Shimano road groups are: Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura-Ace.
    MTB groups include Deore, LX and XT. They're interchangeable as far as
    indexing goes.

    Quoted message said:

    The current setup is a 6 sprocket 14-28 with friction shifters. I
    might like to change the rear, downtube shifter, to an indexed
    shifter at some point in the future. I understand that Shimano and
    Campagnolo are not compatible in this case.

    If anyone has a moment and can point me in the direction of some
    suitable products I would be most grateful.

    Just about any Shimano 6 to 9 speed mech will index with Shimano 6, 7, 8
    and 9 speed shifters -- so you're future options can be nice and open. A
    9-speed mech's cage might be narrower than ideal for a 6/7/8sp chain
    though (?).

    Need some more info now: Do you want a mech able to cope with:

    ....Triple chainset?

    ....Sprockets larger than 28t?

    Bearing in mind that one that can handle these will also work a double +
    14-28.

    Adapters are available in case your frame doesn't have a hanger for a
    modern mech.

    ~PB

  3. Shimano Altus is a compatible upgrade, without changing everything
    else. You can use this with up to a 13/34 7 gear cog. You can also
    upgrade the shifters to indexed types, SIS actually stands for
    "Sequential Index System" but the 6 & 7 speed types are not compatible
    with the 8 and 9 speed types as these have narrower cogs, and in fact
    you will need to switch just about everything.

    You can also use a standard 22/34/44 chainwheel (again, 6 and 7 speed
    types).

    Allthougth the tooth difference is the same, you probably cannot fit an
    MTB 11/32 cog as they will not go on the freewheel that is normally
    supplied with SIS type changer.

    Changing to Deore/XT/XTR types requires changing everthing......buy a
    new bike!

    At the end of the day a 21 speed Altus setup gives you the same range
    as a 27 speed, but of course with bigger gaps between ratios! On the
    plus side, 7 speed systems are heavier and clunkier......read more
    resilient to misuse like cross-chaining!

  4. in message <[email hidden]>, Julesh

    (') said:

    Some time ago I bought an old road bike from Ebay as I wanted something
    to learn to do my own maintenance on (using other components also
    bought on EBay!)

    Having just replaced the freewheel and chain I'm now minded to scrap
    the
    old, cheap and somewhat warped rear mech - A nasty looking thing
    labelled Shimano SIS - with something else.

    The trouble is I don't know what to replace it with as I don't know how
    to tell which rear mechs are designed for MTB's and which are for road
    bikes, or even if it matters?

    You can use a road mech on an MTB and vice versa; what is key is the
    length of the cage and consequently the amount of slack it can take up
    in the chain. MTB mechs are designed to work with wider range cassettes
    than road mechs; I think that is in practice the main difference.
    Tourers often use MTB mechs.

    Quoted message said:

    The current setup is a 6 sprocket 14-28 with friction shifters. I
    might like to change the rear, downtube shifter, to an indexed shifter
    at some point in the future. I understand that Shimano and Campagnolo
    are not compatible in this case.

    That's right; and SRAM aren't compatible with either. This doesn't matter
    so long as you use derailleur and shifter from the same maker. It is
    possible to use Campag levers with Shimano derailleurs and vice versa,
    but involves quite a bit of bodging.

    All derailleurs will work with friction shifters.

    Quoted message said:

    If anyone has a moment and can point me in the direction of some
    suitable products I would be most grateful.

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?Main=Manufacturer.aspx&Manufacturer=Campagnolo&CategoryName=Derailleurs%20Rear

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ;; It appears that /dev/null is a conforming XSL processor.

  5. Roger said:

    Shimano Altus is a compatible upgrade, without changing everything
    else. You can use this with up to a 13/34 7 gear cog. You can also
    upgrade the shifters to indexed types, SIS actually stands for
    "Sequential Index System" but the 6 & 7 speed types are not compatible
    with the 8 and 9 speed types as these have narrower cogs, and in fact
    you will need to switch just about everything.

    That is not strictly true. You can run a 7 speed system with 10 speed
    parts. Using a 10 speed chain on a 7 speed setup is not however advised
    as it could be too narrow. A 7/8 speed chain will work fine through
    most 10 speed mechs (I can personally vouch for XT and Ultegra) but may
    not work on 9/10 speed cassettess without issues.

    Quoted message said:

    You can also use a standard 22/34/44 chainwheel (again, 6 and 7 speed
    types).

    Any sort will do as long as the gap between chainrings is sufficiently
    small to not drop a narrow chain down there. A 10-speed chainset will
    be fine with a 7 speed chain.

    Quoted message said:


    Allthougth the tooth difference is the same, you probably cannot fit an
    MTB 11/32 cog as they will not go on the freewheel that is normally
    supplied with SIS type changer.


    ??
    If by that you mean the bikes normally sold with such rear mechs tend
    to have freewheels rather than cassettes then you would be right. It
    may require a new wheel to upgrade the number of sprockets at the rear.

    Quoted message said:

    Changing to Deore/XT/XTR types requires changing everthing......buy a
    new bike!


    Bah!. It doesn't require changing everything. I have changed mine bit
    by bit.

    there are two things that have to change at the same time in an indexed
    system:
    the shift levers and the rear cluster of sprockets. They must both be
    rated for the same number of gears or it will not work (apart from a
    couple of exceptions). Everythign else is compatible.

    The other thing to watch out for is the range of tooth sizes at the
    back. FOr a triple front chainset and a large range at the back (more
    than 28t largest rear sprocket) you will need a long cage rear
    derailleur to take up the slack in the chain.

    Quoted message said:

    At the end of the day a 21 speed Altus setup gives you the same range
    as a 27 speed, but of course with bigger gaps between ratios! On the
    plus side, 7 speed systems are heavier and clunkier......read more
    resilient to misuse like cross-chaining!

    That is more a function of the chain. 7 speed chains are chunkier than
    10 speed.

    ...d

  6. Simon Brooke said:

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?Main=Manufacturer.aspx&Manufacturer=Campagnolo&CategoryName=Derailleurs%20Rear

    Oh you cruel man. Are you trying to bankrupt him?

    Try the Shimano ones. The Deore should be fine for your purpose and
    will be cheaper than the Campagnolo ones.

    ...d

  7. Pete Biggs said:
    Julesh said:

    Some time ago I bought an old road bike from Ebay as I wanted
    something to learn to do my own maintenance on (using other
    components also bought on EBay!)

    Having just replaced the freewheel and chain I'm now minded to scrap
    the old, cheap and somewhat warped rear mech - A nasty looking thing
    labelled Shimano SIS - with something else.

    The trouble is I don't know what to replace it with as I don't know
    how to tell which rear mechs are designed for MTB's and which are for
    road bikes, or even if it matters?

    They're basically the same except MTB ones tend to cope with larger
    sprockets and wider gear ranges. Same thing to a lesser extent with road
    triples aka road long cage mechs.

    The current Shimano road groups are: Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura-Ace.
    MTB groups include Deore, LX and XT. They're interchangeable as far as
    indexing goes.

    Quoted message said:

    The current setup is a 6 sprocket 14-28 with friction shifters. I
    might like to change the rear, downtube shifter, to an indexed
    shifter at some point in the future. I understand that Shimano and
    Campagnolo are not compatible in this case.

    If anyone has a moment and can point me in the direction of some
    suitable products I would be most grateful.

    Just about any Shimano 6 to 9 speed mech will index with Shimano 6, 7, 8
    and 9 speed shifters -- so you're future options can be nice and open. A
    9-speed mech's cage might be narrower than ideal for a 6/7/8sp chain
    though (?).

    Need some more info now: Do you want a mech able to cope with:

    ...Triple chainset?

    Just a double chainwheel at present. If I felt the need
    to replace the chainset I'd probably feel obliged to service/replace the BB
    at the same time and as I'm a mechanical klutz who is learning slowly
    that's a step too far for me at present.

    Quoted message said:


    ...Sprockets larger than 28t?

    The bike has 27" wheels that can just take a 6 speed freewheel so 28t
    will do at present. If I did want a larger sprocket could I use a MTB
    rear mech and a Shimano Megarange freewheel or can you get road bike
    equipment lower geared than I have already. I'm setting the bike up as a
    sort of day/weekend fast-ish tourer. I'm quite lardy and just want
    something I don't need to push up hills.

    Couple of things come to mind here. I'd also like to change the wheels
    to 700c at some point (when I can win some on EBay!) mainly so I can get
    a better choice of tyres. If I did this I'd change to a cassette. Would
    this be likely to affect my rear mech choice now? What *is* the
    difference between a hybrid bike 700c and a road bike 700c - is this
    just a case of tyre width or is locknut spacing also an issue? I've not
    measured but I think the (steel) frame is 126mm which I believe limits
    me to a 130mm wide wheel unless I fancy levering the rear traingle apart
    "a la Sheldon." I'm currently running 1 1/4 tyres on the existing wheels
    which feel about right for what I do.

    Quoted message said:


    Bearing in mind that one that can handle these will also work a double +
    14-28.

    Adapters are available in case your frame doesn't have a hanger for a
    modern mech.

    Ah, Is there a difference? I have a vague memory that when I was small
    "5-Speed Racers" might have had a rear mech that bolted onto the hub.
    Are all hangers the same length/thread pitch or is this something else I
    need to think about.

    I had a "non-exhaustive" look on the Interwebthing for indexed downtube
    shifters in case this helped me decide whether I wanted to go for a
    Shimano or Campagnolo mech but didn't really find any. Are these
    available anywhere or does everyone now just add stops at that position
    and add "Brifters"? Its not a big deal and probably just something I'd
    do for the practise as friction shifters are fine for me. The present
    shifters are band-on Shimano 600 if that's important.

    Thanks for your help!

    Julesh

  8. David Martin said:

    Roger wrote:

    Never heard of 10 speed XT, mine is 9 speed. As the bike with the Altus
    has its chain off at the moment, I just tried it for size on the 9
    speed XT block. It fits....just. I think this would give a lot of
    hassle in real use as it is likely to touch and catch on adjacent cogs.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    You can also use a standard 22/34/44 chainwheel (again, 6 and 7 speed
    types).

    Any sort will do as long as the gap between chainrings is sufficiently
    small to not drop a narrow chain down there. A 10-speed chainset will
    be fine with a 7 speed chain.

    Quoted message said:

    I have no road bikes so no nothing about 10 speeds, but as far as MTB
    stuff is concerned I think mixing 9 speed and 7 speed parts will always
    lead to grief. The gap between cogs on the 6 the and 7 speed blocks is
    around 5.5mm, on the 9 speed blocks it is around 4.5mm. Chains are
    narrower as a result, and hence so are cog teeth.

    Working is one thing, working well is another.

    Quoted message said:

    If by that you mean the bikes normally sold with such rear mechs tend
    to have freewheels rather than cassettes then you would be right. It
    may require a new wheel to upgrade the number of sprockets at the rear.


    I mean you will not find replacement freewheel+cog units with 11 teeth
    (leastways I could not find any).

    Quoted message said:


    there are two things that have to change at the same time in an indexed
    system:
    the shift levers and the rear cluster of sprockets. They must both be
    rated for the same number of gears or it will not work (apart from a
    couple of exceptions). Everythign else is compatible.

    Strongly disagree. Firstly you can use shifters with more speeds, in
    particular a 7 speed shifter on a 6 speed block, just make sure the end
    screw is set right and you will not be able to go into 7th. Secondly,
    in the Shimano systems the distance that the shifter cable moves is
    equal to the distance between the cogs, i.e. it is different for 9
    speed and 6/7 speeds. As for being 'compatible', see above, it will
    never work perfectly because everything is slightly missized.

    Of course the rear mech itself does not actually know how many cogs
    there are, it may well be that e.g. 9 speed shifters on a 7 speed Altus
    would work fine because the shifters would move the mech by the correct
    distance, but of course the sprockets are still dimensioned for 7 speed
    chains so once agin, it would never be quite right.

    Quoted message said:


    The other thing to watch out for is the range of tooth sizes at the
    back. FOr a triple front chainset and a large range at the back (more
    than 28t largest rear sprocket) you will need a long cage rear
    derailleur to take up the slack in the chain.

    What counts is the difference in the number of teeth. Most MTB rear
    mechanisms are made for 21t difference as standard, with 22/44 triple
    on the front. They do shorter versions of the mechanisms but you will
    rarely find these in the shops as MTB'ers nearly alwys go for maximum
    range. Most serious MTB bikes (Deore and up) use 11/32 cassestes
    (typically 11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32), but as cheap axles/freewheels
    can't take the 11 tooth wheel supermarket types with large range gears
    go from 13 to 34. That means you get higher top gear, but it is so high
    it is virtually useless.

    Don't be confused by the length of the cage, the size of the sprocket
    wheels is just as relevant, so you can have mechs with noticably
    shorter cages (but larger sprockets) which are able to cover the same
    21t range.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    At the end of the day a 21 speed Altus setup gives you the same range
    as a 27 speed, but of course with bigger gaps between ratios! On the
    plus side, 7 speed systems are heavier and clunkier......read more
    resilient to misuse like cross-chaining!

    That is more a function of the chain. 7 speed chains are chunkier than
    10 speed.

    No doubt that the chain is the biggest issue, but also the teeth are
    wider.

  9. Julesh said:


    Just a double chainwheel at present. If I felt the need
    to replace the chainset I'd probably feel obliged to service/replace the BB
    at the same time and as I'm a mechanical klutz who is learning slowly
    that's a step too far for me at present.

    Replacing with a cartridge bearign is easier than servicing. You will
    probably need two sets of tools as the old BB will not have the same
    fittings as a new one.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    ...Sprockets larger than 28t?

    The bike has 27" wheels that can just take a 6 speed freewheel so 28t
    will do at present. If I did want a larger sprocket could I use a MTB
    rear mech and a Shimano Megarange freewheel or can you get road bike
    equipment lower geared than I have already. I'm setting the bike up as a
    sort of day/weekend fast-ish tourer. I'm quite lardy and just want
    something I don't need to push up hills.

    The cassettes/freewheels are interchangeable between road and MTB. Pick
    the gearing to suit and don't worry about the label.

    Quoted message said:

    Couple of things come to mind here. I'd also like to change the wheels
    to 700c at some point (when I can win some on EBay!) mainly so I can get
    a better choice of tyres. If I did this I'd change to a cassette. Would
    this be likely to affect my rear mech choice now?


    No. It will still be compatible.

    Quoted message said:

    What *is* the
    difference between a hybrid bike 700c and a road bike 700c - is this
    just a case of tyre width or is locknut spacing also an issue? I've not
    measured but I think the (steel) frame is 126mm which I believe limits
    me to a 130mm wide wheel unless I fancy levering the rear traingle apart
    "a la Sheldon." I'm currently running 1 1/4 tyres on the existing wheels
    which feel about right for what I do.

    There is little practical difference. Hybrid wheels may have wider rims
    limiting the tyre width choice at the narrow end. Conversely, fitting
    wide tyres on a road rim may be problematic.
    The diameter of a 700c rim is about 8mm less than a 27" wheel (622mm vs
    630) so ensure you have enough capacity in your brakes to move the
    blocks down the necessary 4-5mm.

    You should be able to spring a frame over a 135mm hub, but it will be a
    pain. A 130 will go fine into a 126 rear triangle with a minor amount
    of effort. Cold setting the frame is pretty easy and also easy to foul
    up.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Adapters are available in case your frame doesn't have a hanger for a
    modern mech.

    Ah, Is there a difference? I have a vague memory that when I was small
    "5-Speed Racers" might have had a rear mech that bolted onto the hub.
    Are all hangers the same length/thread pitch or is this something else I
    need to think about.

    The cheaper rear mech have a tab that fits under the rear nut. More
    expensive ones screw into a specific hole in a tab on the frame. They
    are a standard thread. Adapters are available to convert frames without
    the rear derailleur hanger.

    Quoted message said:

    I had a "non-exhaustive" look on the Interwebthing for indexed downtube
    shifters in case this helped me decide whether I wanted to go for a
    Shimano or Campagnolo mech but didn't really find any. Are these
    available anywhere or does everyone now just add stops at that position
    and add "Brifters"? Its not a big deal and probably just something I'd
    do for the practise as friction shifters are fine for me. The present
    shifters are band-on Shimano 600 if that's important.

    Those should be quite nice as far as friction shifters go. To get
    indexed DT levers (which will be *far* cheaper than STI (combined
    brake/gear levers) try http://sjscycles.com/store/vIndex.htm?cat84.htm
    for a selection or scour eBay.

    ...d

  10. David Martin said:
    Simon Brooke said:

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?Main=Manufacturer.aspx&Manufacturer=Campagnolo&CategoryName=Derailleurs%20Rear

    Oh you cruel man. Are you trying to bankrupt him?

    Try the Shimano ones. The Deore should be fine for your purpose and
    will be cheaper than the Campagnolo ones.

    ..d


    I must admit I did rather choke - having stated my preference for buying
    all the parts for this old wreck which only cost me £21 on Ebay in the
    first place - at the price of the Campagnolo Record 10 Speed Rear
    Derailleur which is first on the page[1]. However there are lesser mechs
    below and, as much as I like Wiggle, from whom I've bought stuff in the
    past this does give me an idea of what I should be looking for in t'
    other place.

    Having lived in Italy "per due anni" and being able to pronounce
    Campagnolo without the slightest difficultly I'm minded to go that way
    anyway :-)

    Julesh

    [1] I'm sure it's excellent value for money!

  11. Roger said:

    David Martin wrote:
    Never heard of 10 speed XT, mine is 9 speed. As the bike with the Altus
    has its chain off at the moment, I just tried it for size on the 9
    speed XT block. It fits....just. I think this would give a lot of
    hassle in real use as it is likely to touch and catch on adjacent cogs.

    OK, it is a whatever the largest number is XT rear mech that I have
    been using with a 7/8 speed chain on an 8 speed cassette.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    You can also use a standard 22/34/44 chainwheel (again, 6 and 7 speed
    types).

    Any sort will do as long as the gap between chainrings is sufficiently
    small to not drop a narrow chain down there. A 10-speed chainset will
    be fine with a 7 speed chain.

    Quoted message said:

    I have no road bikes so no nothing about 10 speeds, but as far as MTB
    stuff is concerned I think mixing 9 speed and 7 speed parts will always
    lead to grief. The gap between cogs on the 6 the and 7 speed blocks is
    around 5.5mm, on the 9 speed blocks it is around 4.5mm. Chains are
    narrower as a result, and hence so are cog teeth.

    Working is one thing, working well is another.

    I was probably not careful enough to point out that it was in the
    context of a 9/10speed *mech* with a 7 speed chain. 7 speed chain with
    10 speed cassette is not sensible under normal circumstances.

    My recommendation is to match the chain to the cassette/freewheel.
    Everythign else will look after itself (except for very narrow chains
    and old chainsets where the narrow chains could get between the
    chainrings.)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If by that you mean the bikes normally sold with such rear mechs tend
    to have freewheels rather than cassettes then you would be right. It
    may require a new wheel to upgrade the number of sprockets at the rear.


    I mean you will not find replacement freewheel+cog units with 11 teeth
    (leastways I could not find any).

    You are correct there. 11 is too small to fit on.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    there are two things that have to change at the same time in an indexed
    system:
    the shift levers and the rear cluster of sprockets. They must both be
    rated for the same number of gears or it will not work (apart from a
    couple of exceptions). Everythign else is compatible.

    Strongly disagree. Firstly you can use shifters with more speeds, in
    particular a 7 speed shifter on a 6 speed block, just make sure the end
    screw is set right and you will not be able to go into 7th.


    That is one of the exceptions.

    Quoted message said:

    Secondly,
    in the Shimano systems the distance that the shifter cable moves is
    equal to the distance between the cogs, i.e. it is different for 9
    speed and 6/7 speeds. As for being 'compatible', see above, it will
    never work perfectly because everything is slightly missized.


    ?? A rear mech moves the same amount for a given amount of cable pull.
    It is the indexing that determines the spacing between the gear
    positions. Mechs are compatible across all SIS ranges.

    Quoted message said:

    Of course the rear mech itself does not actually know how many cogs
    there are, it may well be that e.g. 9 speed shifters on a 7 speed Altus
    would work fine because the shifters would move the mech by the correct
    distance, but of course the sprockets are still dimensioned for 7 speed
    chains so once agin, it would never be quite right.

    Nope. It works perfectly. The difference between 7 and 9 speed chains
    is in the outside, ie how much of the rivet protrudes. The derailelur
    spacing between positions will still be just right. You can use the
    same sprockets all the way up to 9. I think 10 may be slightly narrower
    so a 10 speed chain will not work on 9 or fewer. But a 10 speed
    compatible rear mech works fine on 7 speed uniglide and 7 speed
    hyperglide with an 8 speed chain.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The other thing to watch out for is the range of tooth sizes at the
    back. FOr a triple front chainset and a large range at the back (more
    than 28t largest rear sprocket) you will need a long cage rear
    derailleur to take up the slack in the chain.

    What counts is the difference in the number of teeth. Most MTB rear
    mechanisms are made for 21t difference as standard, with 22/44 triple
    on the front. They do shorter versions of the mechanisms but you will
    rarely find these in the shops as MTB'ers nearly alwys go for maximum
    range. Most serious MTB bikes (Deore and up) use 11/32 cassestes
    (typically 11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32), but as cheap axles/freewheels
    can't take the 11 tooth wheel supermarket types with large range gears
    go from 13 to 34. That means you get higher top gear, but it is so high
    it is virtually useless.

    Lower top gear, and it is quite useful when taking big loads up hills.
    I was using my 28x32 in serious anger when touring. OK, you aren't
    going fast but you are going. I also used the 48/11 coming down the
    other side ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    Don't be confused by the length of the cage, the size of the sprocket
    wheels is just as relevant, so you can have mechs with noticably
    shorter cages (but larger sprockets) which are able to cover the same
    21t range.

    And the ranges given are quite conservative. You can normally get a few
    more t difference if you need to. Broadly speaking they are classified
    as long cage, medium cage and short cage. For the range the OP
    described, a long cage will be ideal.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    At the end of the day a 21 speed Altus setup gives you the same range
    as a 27 speed, but of course with bigger gaps between ratios! On the
    plus side, 7 speed systems are heavier and clunkier......read more
    resilient to misuse like cross-chaining!

    That is more a function of the chain. 7 speed chains are chunkier than
    10 speed.

    No doubt that the chain is the biggest issue, but also the teeth are
    wider.

    10 speed are narrower, everythign else is the same tooth width. The
    spacing between the teeth gets smaller though.

    ...d

  12. Julesh said:

    I must admit I did rather choke - having stated my preference for buying
    all the parts for this old wreck which only cost me £21 on Ebay in the
    first place - at the price of the Campagnolo Record 10 Speed Rear
    Derailleur which is first on the page[1]. However there are lesser mechs
    below and, as much as I like Wiggle, from whom I've bought stuff in the
    past this does give me an idea of what I should be looking for in t'
    other place.

    The Campag Xenon mech is great value, and will work with the friction
    lever you have now, but won't work with a Shimano indexed shifter you may
    get in future.

    ~PB

  13. David Martin said:
    Julesh said:

    Just a double chainwheel at present. If I felt the need
    to replace the chainset I'd probably feel obliged to service/replace the BB
    at the same time and as I'm a mechanical klutz who is learning slowly
    that's a step too far for me at present.

    Replacing with a cartridge bearign is easier than servicing. You will
    probably need two sets of tools as the old BB will not have the same
    fittings as a new one.

    My point entirely. I had to take the wheel to the LBS to get them to
    remove the old freewheel as my Shimano freewheel remover didn't fit.
    While I don't mind buying tools I don't really need a BB remover I'm
    probably only going to use once in my life and I'd also need whatever to
    get the cranks off AND repeat the present process of asking silly
    questions about which chainwheels I should buy.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    ...Sprockets larger than 28t?

    The bike has 27" wheels that can just take a 6 speed freewheel so 28t
    will do at present. If I did want a larger sprocket could I use a MTB
    rear mech and a Shimano Megarange freewheel or can you get road bike
    equipment lower geared than I have already. I'm setting the bike up as a
    sort of day/weekend fast-ish tourer. I'm quite lardy and just want
    something I don't need to push up hills.

    The cassettes/freewheels are interchangeable between road and MTB. Pick
    the gearing to suit and don't worry about the label.

    Thanks - thought that was the case.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Couple of things come to mind here. I'd also like to change the wheels
    to 700c at some point (when I can win some on EBay!) mainly so I can get
    a better choice of tyres. If I did this I'd change to a cassette. Would
    this be likely to affect my rear mech choice now?

    No. It will still be compatible.

    Quoted message said:

    What *is* the
    difference between a hybrid bike 700c and a road bike 700c - is this
    just a case of tyre width or is locknut spacing also an issue? I've not
    measured but I think the (steel) frame is 126mm which I believe limits
    me to a 130mm wide wheel unless I fancy levering the rear traingle apart
    "a la Sheldon." I'm currently running 1 1/4 tyres on the existing wheels
    which feel about right for what I do.

    There is little practical difference. Hybrid wheels may have wider rims
    limiting the tyre width choice at the narrow end. Conversely, fitting
    wide tyres on a road rim may be problematic.
    The diameter of a 700c rim is about 8mm less than a 27" wheel (622mm vs
    630) so ensure you have enough capacity in your brakes to move the
    blocks down the necessary 4-5mm.

    Thanks

    Quoted message said:


    You should be able to spring a frame over a 135mm hub, but it will be a
    pain. A 130 will go fine into a 126 rear triangle with a minor amount
    of effort. Cold setting the frame is pretty easy and also easy to foul
    up.

    Yes. I've read Sheldon's description of his method and its not for me!

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Adapters are available in case your frame doesn't have a hanger for a
    modern mech.

    Ah, Is there a difference? I have a vague memory that when I was small
    "5-Speed Racers" might have had a rear mech that bolted onto the hub.
    Are all hangers the same length/thread pitch or is this something else I
    need to think about.

    The cheaper rear mech have a tab that fits under the rear nut. More
    expensive ones screw into a specific hole in a tab on the frame. They
    are a standard thread. Adapters are available to convert frames without
    the rear derailleur hanger.

    Quoted message said:

    I had a "non-exhaustive" look on the Interwebthing for indexed downtube
    shifters in case this helped me decide whether I wanted to go for a
    Shimano or Campagnolo mech but didn't really find any. Are these
    available anywhere or does everyone now just add stops at that position
    and add "Brifters"? Its not a big deal and probably just something I'd
    do for the practise as friction shifters are fine for me. The present
    shifters are band-on Shimano 600 if that's important.

    Those should be quite nice as far as friction shifters go. To get
    indexed DT levers (which will be *far* cheaper than STI (combined
    brake/gear levers) try http://sjscycles.com/store/vIndex.htm?cat84.htm
    for a selection or scour eBay.

    ..d

    Thanks for that SJS seem to have what I need.

    Julesh

  14. Simon Brooke said:


    That's right; and SRAM aren't compatible with either.

    Some (more modern) SRAM shifters are Shimano compatable.

    Tom
    --
    Return address is dead. Real address is at
    http://toomanybikes.com/address.jpg

  15. Julesh said:
    Quoted message said:

    ...Triple chainset?

    Just a double chainwheel at present. If I felt the need
    to replace the chainset I'd probably feel obliged to service/replace the


    BB

    Quoted message said:

    at the same time and as I'm a mechanical klutz who is learning slowly
    that's a step too far for me at present.

    It'll be a small mechanical step to take in the near future, if you like,
    since BBs aren't expensive or difficult to fit. Adequate crank puller and
    bottom bracket tools are cheap from Mike Dyason's. On the other hand,
    the expense of the project will bumped up. It would be senisble to
    /think/ about getting a whole new bike if you could possibly afford one,
    not that it's never economical to do up an old bike, just takes some doing
    to keep the cost down.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    ...Sprockets larger than 28t?

    The bike has 27" wheels that can just take a 6 speed freewheel so 28t
    will do at present. If I did want a larger sprocket could I use a MTB
    rear mech and a Shimano Megarange freewheel or can you get road bike
    equipment lower geared than I have already. I'm setting the bike up as a
    sort of day/weekend fast-ish tourer. I'm quite lardy and just want
    something I don't need to push up hills.

    I suggest getting a long cage rear mech now anyway if you think you might
    possibly want wider/lower gears in future. If planning on Shimano
    shifters, you might as well get an "MTB" mech just in case you'll ever
    need it, eg:

    www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5088

    This should work with your existing setup and just about anything you may
    do in future if sticking with Shimano shifters.

    Quoted message said:

    Couple of things come to mind here. I'd also like to change the wheels
    to 700c at some point (when I can win some on EBay!) mainly so I can get
    a better choice of tyres. If I did this I'd change to a cassette. Would
    this be likely to affect my rear mech choice now?

    To some extent: 8 & 9sp mechs are optimised for 8/9sp chains. But a
    Shimano 6sp mech indexes with 8 & 9sp shifters and cassette, afaik.

    /snip

    Quoted message said:

    I had a "non-exhaustive" look on the Interwebthing for indexed downtube
    shifters in case this helped me decide whether I wanted to go for a
    Shimano or Campagnolo mech but didn't really find any. Are these
    available anywhere

    I think you'll have to rely on the second hand market for those.

    Quoted message said:

    or does everyone now just add stops at that position
    and add "Brifters"? Its not a big deal and probably just something I'd
    do for the practise as friction shifters are fine for me. The present
    shifters are band-on Shimano 600 if that's important.

    It will be a big deal if you try brifters and like them so much that you
    wouldn't want to go back to down tubies. So don't even try them if you
    want to save money! :-)

    2001+ Campag Mirage 9-speed is the best buy for brifters, IMO, coupled
    with a Xenon mech.

    Alternatively, look out for second-hand 6, 7 or 8sp Shimano indexed down
    tube levers or bar end levers.

    By the way, brake blocks need lowering by 4mm when converting from 27" to
    700c.

    ~PB

  16. Pete Biggs said:
    Julesh said:

    I must admit I did rather choke - having stated my preference for buying
    all the parts for this old wreck which only cost me £21 on Ebay in the
    first place - at the price of the Campagnolo Record 10 Speed Rear
    Derailleur which is first on the page[1]. However there are lesser mechs
    below and, as much as I like Wiggle, from whom I've bought stuff in the
    past this does give me an idea of what I should be looking for in t'
    other place.

    The Campag Xenon mech is great value, and will work with the friction
    lever you have now, but won't work with a Shimano indexed shifter you may
    get in future.

    ~PB


    Excellent so - just checking I've got this right....

    I can buy a Xenon Mech and use it with my current friction shift lever
    and freewheel?

    This will also allow me (should I choose) to replace my rear wheel with
    one that has a 700c cassette and run as many gears as the Xenon will
    handle while still using friction shift? - I understand I need to drop
    the brake pads and possibly run a narrower chain if I do this.

    New question: Is the "lock nut width" greater on hubs with more
    sprockets or does the non-cassette part of the wheel reduce in width?
    Translation - am I going to limited to the maximum number of sprockets
    due to the width of the rear dropout or do the sprockets and chain just
    get narrower?

    Should I ever be able to find a compatible Campag downtube index shifter
    - David Martin has kindly pointed me at a source of Shimano ones - I
    can index the Xenon if I want to?

    Julesh

  17. Pete Biggs said:
    Julesh said:
    Quoted message said:

    ...Triple chainset?

    Just a double chainwheel at present. If I felt the need
    to replace the chainset I'd probably feel obliged to service/replace the


    BB

    Quoted message said:

    at the same time and as I'm a mechanical klutz who is learning slowly
    that's a step too far for me at present.

    It'll be a small mechanical step to take in the near future, if you like,
    since BBs aren't expensive or difficult to fit. Adequate crank puller and
    bottom bracket tools are cheap from Mike Dyason's.


    I find that getting self removing crank bolts is a worthwhile few
    pence. It means that you can get the cranks off very easily with a 6mm
    allen key and solves a lot of grief. I think they are cheaper than a
    crank puller, but you do need a set per crank.

    Modern BB are easy, much easier than the old ones.

    Quoted message said:

    On the other hand,
    the expense of the project will bumped up. It would be senisble to
    /think/ about getting a whole new bike if you could possibly afford one,
    not that it's never economical to do up an old bike, just takes some doing
    to keep the cost down.

    If I get a new bike I tend to need to change bits anyway, so there is
    no such thing as an 'off the peg' model for me.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    ...Sprockets larger than 28t?

    The bike has 27" wheels that can just take a 6 speed freewheel so 28t
    will do at present. If I did want a larger sprocket could I use a MTB
    rear mech and a Shimano Megarange freewheel or can you get road bike
    equipment lower geared than I have already. I'm setting the bike up as a
    sort of day/weekend fast-ish tourer. I'm quite lardy and just want
    something I don't need to push up hills.

    I suggest getting a long cage rear mech now anyway if you think you might
    possibly want wider/lower gears in future. If planning on Shimano
    shifters, you might as well get an "MTB" mech just in case you'll ever
    need it, eg:

    www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5088

    This should work with your existing setup and just about anything you may
    do in future if sticking with Shimano shifters.

    Quoted message said:

    Couple of things come to mind here. I'd also like to change the wheels
    to 700c at some point (when I can win some on EBay!) mainly so I can get
    a better choice of tyres. If I did this I'd change to a cassette. Would
    this be likely to affect my rear mech choice now?

    To some extent: 8 & 9sp mechs are optimised for 8/9sp chains. But a
    Shimano 6sp mech indexes with 8 & 9sp shifters and cassette, afaik.

    /snip

    Quoted message said:

    I had a "non-exhaustive" look on the Interwebthing for indexed downtube
    shifters in case this helped me decide whether I wanted to go for a
    Shimano or Campagnolo mech but didn't really find any. Are these
    available anywhere

    I think you'll have to rely on the second hand market for those.

    They are available. Not cheap though.

    Quoted message said:

    2001+ Campag Mirage 9-speed is the best buy for brifters, IMO, coupled
    with a Xenon mech.

    Hmm.. any sources for that? I may be convinced to go Italian when I do
    up the road bike, though having just bought an Ultegra 10 speed mech,
    it seems a waste to then shift to Campag.. OTOH, it may be cheaper to
    buy campag mech and levers than Shimano levers.

    ...d

  18. David Martin said:
    Quoted message said:

    ?? A rear mech moves the same amount for a given amount of cable pull.
    It is the indexing that determines the spacing between the gear
    positions. Mechs are compatible across all SIS ranges.

    Yes, I see your point, the indexer must match the distance between
    cogs. period. But I am just not convinced about chain and teeth widths.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:


    10 speed are narrower, everythign else is the same tooth width. The
    spacing between the teeth gets smaller though.


    Perhaps we are mixed up between road and MTB here. I assume you are
    reffering to road bikes when you talk 10 speed. I can assure you that
    the 6/7 speed cogs on several bikes in my family are definitly thicker
    than the 9 speed all shimano XT setup I have on my XC bike.

  19. "Julesh" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Those should be quite nice as far as friction shifters go. To get
    indexed DT levers (which will be *far* cheaper than STI (combined
    brake/gear levers) try http://sjscycles.com/store/vIndex.htm?cat84.htm
    for a selection or scour eBay.

    ..d

    Thanks for that SJS seem to have what I need.

    They often do. However it's worth looking round, as they're not exactly the
    cheapest place around. 5 quid postage for example...

    cheers,
    clive

  20. in message <[email hidden]>, David

    Martin (') said:
    Simon Brooke said:


    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?Main=Manufacturer.aspx&Manufacturer=Campagnolo&CategoryName=Derailleurs%20Rear

    Quoted message said:


    Oh you cruel man. Are you trying to bankrupt him?

    Try the Shimano ones. The Deore should be fine for your purpose and
    will be cheaper than the Campagnolo ones.

    Not from Wiggle, it won't. Deore, £29.99; Xenon, £28.99. And if you can
    afford Campag, why look at Shimano?

    Seriously, it's also worth looking at the SRAM SX5, which is about the
    same price. The SRAM is a good derailleur. I'm not sure how the 1:1
    actuation ratio works with friction levers, but it certainly makes for
    more accurate shifting than Shimano with the right indexed levers. Mind
    you, of course, the SRAM road-bike shifters are not actually available
    until later this year and I'm not sure whether the actuation ratio
    actually is the same - they talk about 'Exact' ratio for the Force
    groupset, rather than '1:1'.
    http://www.velonews.com/tech/report/articles/9036.0.html

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ;; All in all you're just another hick in the mall
    -- Drink C'lloid

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