Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Rear Hub Widths?

Started by (PeteCresswell) · · Last activity · 6 posts · 337 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
19 February 2008
Last activity
19 February 2008
Original author
(PeteCresswell)
Posts
6
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
337
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–6 of 6
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. When I'm pricing internal-geared hubs, I see " Overlocknut
    distance: 132 mm".

    I'm guessing this is the distance between the rear dropouts - at
    least it's about what I measure on my FS.

    But when I measure my original StumpJumper (from 1982), I get
    more like 123 or 124 mm.

    Is there any hope here? Will forcing the dropouts apart have
    some undesirable consequence? Chain line?

    What're the standards actually?

    120 & 130?
    --
    PeteCresswell

  2. Per (PeteCresswell):

    Quoted message said:

    What're the standards actually?

    I retract the question. Just found
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html
    --
    PeteCresswell

  3. Pete GoTo;

    www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

    hope that links works

    Best Regards - Mike Baldwin

  4. On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 20:11:10 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    When I'm pricing internal-geared hubs, I see " Overlocknut
    distance: 132 mm".

    I'm guessing this is the distance between the rear dropouts - at
    least it's about what I measure on my FS.

    But when I measure my original StumpJumper (from 1982), I get
    more like 123 or 124 mm.

    Is there any hope here? Will forcing the dropouts apart have
    some undesirable consequence? Chain line?

    What're the standards actually?

    120 & 130?

    More than that:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

    You can cold set the frame to accept a wider hub.
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

    As always, Sheldon has the Answer.
    --
    zk

  5. (PeteCresswell) said:

    When I'm pricing internal-geared hubs, I see " Overlocknut
    distance: 132 mm".

    I'm guessing this is the distance between the rear dropouts - at
    least it's about what I measure on my FS.

    But when I measure my original StumpJumper (from 1982), I get
    more like 123 or 124 mm.

    Is there any hope here?   Will forcing the dropouts apart have
    some undesirable consequence?  Chain line?

    What're the standards actually?

    120 & 130?
    --
    PeteCresswell

    How will you regulate chain tension? One way, with track ends for
    instance, is to use a simple and cheap loop, bolt and crossarm device
    that stays itself on the ends of the axle slot.
    http://www.van-asten.nl/shop/producten.php?a=product&id=2045
    This requires space on in the inside of the frame to the thickness of
    two loops, one on each side of the hub, in addition to the over-
    locknut-dimension of the hub (and the rollerbrake if fitted).

    Andre Jute
    Visit Jute on Amps at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
    "wonderfully well written and reasoned information
    for the tube audio constructor"
    John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
    "an unbelievably comprehensive web site
    containing vital gems of wisdom"
    Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review

  6. (PeteCresswell) said:

    When I'm pricing internal-geared hubs, I see " Overlocknut
    distance: 132 mm".

    Depending on the brand, you can often arrange the spaces/washers/
    whatnot or remove them to fit your particular drop or even the chain
    line right. AFAIK, the new Sturmey Archers are supremely configurable
    in this regard.

    Respacing drops isn't hard, but I'd rather fool with washers than try
    to get them square afterwards--unless you want to take the frame to
    the shop for dropout alignment after respacing. You can eyeball it
    with a big ass wrench--probably good enough for solid axle.

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.