Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Rear canti on MTB sans frame cable hanger?

Started by Luke · · Last activity · 13 posts · 805 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
30 September 2005
Last activity
3 October 2005
Original author
Luke
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  1. There is the option of a bolt-on (to the seat binder bolt) cable hanger
    (available from loosescrews.com), but in this instance I wonder if it
    will do. This MTB frame boasts standard 12 O'clock cable routing and
    the seat-tube, extending 45 mm past the top-tube's top, requires a
    collar; and a bolt on hanger would result in unconventional cable
    routing: it would require the brake cable to be raised at least 45 mm
    (acounting for the its bend) above the rear segment of the top-tube in
    order to properly seat in the hanger. This can't be a good idea.

    Luke

  2. Canti brakes are not a good idea, period.

  3. Quoting <[email hidden]>:

    Quoted message said:

    Canti brakes are not a good idea, period.

    No doubt an explanation will be forthcoming. They seem to cause bikes to
    stop, fit around big tyres, and don't use thin pads that wear out in no
    time...
    --
    David Damerell <[email hidden]> Kill the tomato!
    Today is First Gouday, September.

  4. Luke said:

    There is the option of a bolt-on (to the seat binder bolt) cable
    hanger (available from loosescrews.com), but in this instance I
    wonder if it will do. This MTB frame boasts standard 12 O'clock cable
    routing and the seat-tube, extending 45 mm past the top-tube's top,
    requires a collar; and a bolt on hanger would result in
    unconventional cable routing: it would require the brake cable to be
    raised at least 45 mm (acounting for the its bend) above the rear
    segment of the top-tube in order to properly seat in the hanger. This
    can't be a good idea.

    As long as the housing isn't bent too tightly, it shouldn't be a problem.

    Matt O.

  5. Luke said:

    There is the option of a bolt-on (to the seat binder bolt) cable hanger
    (available from loosescrews.com), but in this instance I wonder if it
    will do. This MTB frame boasts standard 12 O'clock cable routing and
    the seat-tube, extending 45 mm past the top-tube's top, requires a
    collar; and a bolt on hanger would result in unconventional cable
    routing: it would require the brake cable to be raised at least 45 mm
    (acounting for the its bend) above the rear segment of the top-tube in
    order to properly seat in the hanger. This can't be a good idea.

    Noodles are your friend. Put a 45° noodle in the bolt-on hangar and the
    cable routing will probably improve a bunch. You might even put a noodle
    in the top tube cable stop, but I don't think you'll need it.

    http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.cfm?PageID=49&SKU=BR2782

    --
    dvt at psu dot edu

  6. Luke said:

    There is the option of a bolt-on (to the seat binder bolt) cable hanger
    (available from loosescrews.com), but in this instance I wonder if it
    will do. This MTB frame boasts standard 12 O'clock cable routing and
    the seat-tube, extending 45 mm past the top-tube's top, requires a
    collar; and a bolt on hanger would result in unconventional cable
    routing: it would require the brake cable to be raised at least 45 mm
    (acounting for the its bend) above the rear segment of the top-tube in
    order to properly seat in the hanger. This can't be a good idea.

    Luke

    Kona used to do a really cool little collar thing on their bikes. It
    bolted on to the seat tube, below the seatpost clamp but just above the
    top tube, and allowed a straight cable run along the top tube and
    around the seat tube with no additional housing. You may want to
    contact your friendly neighborhood Kona dealer and see if they still
    stock them. The part that I'm thinking of came on a 1994 Kona Kiluea
    (steel).

    SYJ

  7. Correction - my bike was an Explosif (although I imagine a Kiluea of
    the same vintage has the same part)

  8. In article <[email hidden]>,

    StaceyJ said:

    Kona used to do a really cool little collar thing on their bikes. It
    bolted on to the seat tube, below the seatpost clamp but just above the
    top tube, and allowed a straight cable run along the top tube and
    around the seat tube with no additional housing. You may want to
    contact your friendly neighborhood Kona dealer and see if they still
    stock them. The part that I'm thinking of came on a 1994 Kona Kiluea
    (steel).

    Yes, I was wondering if an option other than a binder-bolt mounted
    cable hanger was available, but after much pointing and clicking on the
    web was not able to locate one. Your tip warrants further
    investigation.

    Thanks
    Luke

  9. In article <[email hidden]>, dvt <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Noodles are your friend. Put a 45° noodle in the bolt-on hangar and the
    cable routing will probably improve a bunch. You might even put a noodle
    in the top tube cable stop, but I don't think you'll need it.

    http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.cfm?PageID=49&SKU=BR2782

    Definitely worth considering. First I'll try a noodleless setup, see
    how it works, then go from there....

    Luke

  10. Luke said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    StaceyJ said:

    Kona used to do a really cool little collar thing on their bikes. It
    bolted on to the seat tube, below the seatpost clamp but just above the
    top tube, and allowed a straight cable run along the top tube and
    around the seat tube with no additional housing. You may want to
    contact your friendly neighborhood Kona dealer and see if they still
    stock them. The part that I'm thinking of came on a 1994 Kona Kiluea
    (steel).

    Yes, I was wondering if an option other than a binder-bolt mounted
    cable hanger was available, but after much pointing and clicking on the
    web was not able to locate one. Your tip warrants further
    investigation.

    Thanks
    Luke


    Another idea from bikeforums.net, which I edited slightly...

    ---- oldskoolboarder wrote ----
    You'll need some type of rear hanger, I used this:

    Hanger http://www.loosescrews.com, put "DC-B1268" in the search box and
    let 'er fly.

    along w/ a Woodman clamp. I had to file down part of the hanger flat
    because it was too big to put onto the seat tube w/ the clamp. You can
    see that there's not a lot of hanging room but it works.

    Like this
    http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y98/oldskoolboarder/IMG_1016.jpg
    ---- end edited quote ----

    Good luck.

    --
    dvt at psu dot edu

  11. David Damerell said:

    No doubt an explanation will be forthcoming. They seem to cause bikes to
    stop, fit around big tyres, and don't use thin pads that wear out in no
    time...

    Well, direct-pulls are a lot simpler.

    Jasper

  12. Quoting Jasper Janssen <[email hidden]>:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    No doubt an explanation will be forthcoming. They seem to cause bikes to
    stop, fit around big tyres, and don't use thin pads that wear out in no
    time...


    Well, direct-pulls are a lot simpler.

    If one doesn't count finding brake levers that work with them and with my
    preferred handlebars, yes. :-)

    [I wouldn't say "a lot" simpler, either. The cantilever brake is not the
    most complicated device known to man...]
    --
    David Damerell <[email hidden]> flcl?
    Today is Gorgonzoladay, September - a weekend.

  13. David Damerell said:

    Quoting Jasper Janssen <[email hidden]>:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    No doubt an explanation will be forthcoming. They seem to cause bikes to
    stop, fit around big tyres, and don't use thin pads that wear out in no
    time...


    Well, direct-pulls are a lot simpler.

    If one doesn't count finding brake levers that work with them and with my
    preferred handlebars, yes. :-)

    Indeed.

    Quoted message said:

    [I wouldn't say "a lot" simpler, either. The cantilever brake is not the
    most complicated device known to man...]

    Well.. that whole cable yoke thing is not terribly mechanically
    complicated, but *conceptually* it's a whole level of indirection extra.

    Jasper

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