Really newbie questions

You need to learn to spin. Gradually increase cadence to 88-94 and over time strength at those cadences will develop.

A road bike should have a 52-12 top gear for 700c wheels. That is fast enough for everyone. 🙂

Gclark8 is right, change gears to maintain your cadance. Do you have a computer that measures cadance? Polar Cs200CAD does and cound be found on EBAY for about $130.00 :p

Here are my bike specs: A Scott Speedster S60FB Flat Bar[font=Arial]

Alloy tubing; Roadster geometry; 7005 Alloy P.G.; Integrated Headtube; Fender compatible

Alloy; 1 1/8 " Steel steerer; Integrated

Integreadet Steel Cup

Shimano RD 2200; 24 Speed

Shimano FD - R443 F

Shimano ST - R223; 24 Speed
Scott Sport SCBR 510 A; 41-56 mm Scott Sport L

Suntour Sport; 30/42/52 T

TH - BB 7420 ST

Scott X - Rod; 580 mm

Scott Roadster; 1-1/8" / Double Bolt

Scott Alloy 31.6mm

Scott Road

F: Scott Sport; R: Scott Sport

KMC Z - 72

Shimano CN-HG50-8; 12-25 T

14 G Stainless; silver 2 mm

Alex - R 500/32 H Black

[font=Helvetica][font=Arial]Maxxis Colombiere 700 x 25 C [/font]
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[font=Helvetica]I only got a basic computer that measure speed, distance and timing cos I have just started out seriously. What's exactly spinning by the way? I think I need lots of help on all these terms so I really apprepriate any advice I can get. Thanks!
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OK, HERE WE GO!

First, some people really PUSH the pedal down, and then let off pressure. With both feet course. This results on un-even rotation of the cranks. Spinning involves a smooth, fluid rotation of the pedals, even pulling back up as the other foot goes down. Thus the power supplied is also smooth and fluid.

Spinning does not take as much exertion as pushing hard, but will get the heart rate up! And you can spin longer than you can push hard.

I hope this helps. Counting rotations while riding would be almost impossible. Thus a bike computer with cadence is needed. I was surprised, I just got a new computer, and find myself with a normal cadence of 97.

FlyMeToTheMoon said:

Here are my bike specs: A Scott Speedster S60FB Flat Bar[font=Arial]

Alloy tubing; Roadster geometry; 7005 Alloy P.G.; Integrated Headtube; Fender compatible

Alloy; 1 1/8 " Steel steerer; Integrated

Integreadet Steel Cup

Shimano RD 2200; 24 Speed

Shimano FD - R443 F

Shimano ST - R223; 24 Speed
Scott Sport SCBR 510 A; 41-56 mm Scott Sport L

Suntour Sport; 30/42/52 T

TH - BB 7420 ST

Scott X - Rod; 580 mm

Scott Roadster; 1-1/8" / Double Bolt

Scott Alloy 31.6mm

Scott Road

F: Scott Sport; R: Scott Sport

KMC Z - 72

Shimano CN-HG50-8; 12-25 T

14 G Stainless; silver 2 mm

Alex - R 500/32 H Black

[font=Helvetica][font=Arial]Maxxis Colombiere 700 x 25 C [/font]
[/font]
[font=Helvetica][/font]
[font=Helvetica]I only got a basic computer that measure speed, distance and timing cos I have just started out seriously. What's exactly spinning by the way? I think I need lots of help on all these terms so I really apprepriate any advice I can get. Thanks!
[/font]
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All good advice.

Hey, nice bike!! 52 tooth big ring, 12 tooth small sprocket, it will go faster than my road and tri bikes. 😄

Those tyres may be a bit slow, check the sidewall for a max inflation pressure, go for about 10psi below max in the front and about 5 psi below max in the rear.

Think about a better computer, with cadence, Cateye Astrale 8 is good and not too many $$.

Thanks for all the explanation and advice. I did feel something was wrong with the tyres actually.... cos i seem to be quite slow despite my pedaling.. my main problem is trying to get on the bike cos the seat is higher and I can't balance and i go wobbly at first..haha. which is quite embarrassing(I'm not using the clip-on shoes yet) and trying to decide which gear I should use for maximum efficiency. Guess I have to play around with the gears and look for a better computer too....Hee🙂

Ok, check the seat is not too high, a slight bend in the leg with the pedal at the bottom and I double check this by sliding on/off the saddle when moving, if the ball$ catch, then the seat is too high. 😄

Starting off on a flat road, try the gears in 2/2, leave the left shifter in the middle (2) for most riding. Just shift the right lever until you feel a light comfortable load on the legs. Its about smooooth, not hard. If the load is too easy, a higher gear 345678, if you cant spin fast enough then try a lower gear 87654321. I sometimes shift 2-3 gears a second on a hill just to maintain the same load on the legs. You will use all the gears, get used to shifting them.

FYI, I'm a lady..:p . When do I use gear 1 and 3 in the left shifter then? for upslopes and downslopes?

I'm using 2 on the left and 3/4 on the right most of the time now...

gclark8 said:

Ok, check the seat is not too high, a slight bend in the leg with the pedal at the bottom and I double check this by sliding on/off the saddle when moving, if the ball$ catch, then the seat is too high. 😄

Starting off on a flat road, try the gears in 2/2, leave the left shifter in the middle (2) for most riding. Just shift the right lever until you feel a light comfortable load on the legs. Its about smooooth, not hard. If the load is too easy, a higher gear 345678, if you cant spin fast enough then try a lower gear 87654321. I sometimes shift 2-3 gears a second on a hill just to maintain the same load on the legs. You will use all the gears, get used to shifting them.

Oh my gosh!!! :eek: A girl!!!

1000 apologies!! Where can I hide now??

My GF will love that post I wrote, should I edit it? I will ask her to write to you in the morning as she is taking her son out for dinner tonight.

In the gears,
try to use all 8 on the right on the flats,
and when you run out,
up hills use 1 on the left,
and down hills use 3 on the left.

You can come for a ride with us, any Thursday or Friday. She (Little Jackie) is in Gosnells, I am in Bassendean. Jackie has a Felt F-100 650c with the same gearing you have. 🙂

George is still blushing from his blunder regarding seat height yesterday! 🙂