B
Ben C
Guest
On 2007-09-06, Dave Larrington <[email protected]> wrote:
> In news:[email protected],
> Ben C <[email protected]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine to tell us:
>
>> Yes, although I also got that "perhaps 170C" from a bit of googling.
>> The page I found made a distinction between "wet" and "dry" boiling
>> points, "wet" being what you get when your brake fluid has absorbed
>> 3% of water.
>>
>> Here it is: http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/fluid.shtml
>>
>> I went for the "wet" boiling point of DOT 4 since I heard somewhere
>> else that bicycle brake fluid boils much more easily than the car
>> stuff (although it strips the paint less).
>>
>> Brake fluid should never boil in a car unless it's very old. You
>> should be able to get the pads practically on fire before the fluid
>> boils. But I have heard tell of fluid boiling occurring with MTB
>> disks, implying to me that the stuff people are putting in boils at a
>> rather lower temp than DOT4 or DOT5.1.
>>
>> Dry for DOT5.1 is 288 deg C according to them.
>
>
> I use DOT 5.1 from Halfrauds in all my hydraulic discs and can't recall any
> problems which might have been caused by boiling fluid. This is 99.9%
> on-road, admittedly, but even try to keep a recumbent down to a sane speed
> on a steep wet twisty downhill in the middle of the night using only the
> rear brake[1] it's been OK.
Yes I think you'd have a hard time boiling DOT 5.1 in anything, which is
as it should be. Boiling brake fluid is not something you file under
"acceptable".
> 1 - the front one decided to lose interest after a minor off - no sign of a
> fluid leak and rebleeding seems to have restored normal functionality.
> Colour me baffled.
Perhaps it got a gulp of air into the lines when it was upside down.
> In news:[email protected],
> Ben C <[email protected]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine to tell us:
>
>> Yes, although I also got that "perhaps 170C" from a bit of googling.
>> The page I found made a distinction between "wet" and "dry" boiling
>> points, "wet" being what you get when your brake fluid has absorbed
>> 3% of water.
>>
>> Here it is: http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/fluid.shtml
>>
>> I went for the "wet" boiling point of DOT 4 since I heard somewhere
>> else that bicycle brake fluid boils much more easily than the car
>> stuff (although it strips the paint less).
>>
>> Brake fluid should never boil in a car unless it's very old. You
>> should be able to get the pads practically on fire before the fluid
>> boils. But I have heard tell of fluid boiling occurring with MTB
>> disks, implying to me that the stuff people are putting in boils at a
>> rather lower temp than DOT4 or DOT5.1.
>>
>> Dry for DOT5.1 is 288 deg C according to them.
>
>
> I use DOT 5.1 from Halfrauds in all my hydraulic discs and can't recall any
> problems which might have been caused by boiling fluid. This is 99.9%
> on-road, admittedly, but even try to keep a recumbent down to a sane speed
> on a steep wet twisty downhill in the middle of the night using only the
> rear brake[1] it's been OK.
Yes I think you'd have a hard time boiling DOT 5.1 in anything, which is
as it should be. Boiling brake fluid is not something you file under
"acceptable".
> 1 - the front one decided to lose interest after a minor off - no sign of a
> fluid leak and rebleeding seems to have restored normal functionality.
> Colour me baffled.
Perhaps it got a gulp of air into the lines when it was upside down.