Re: The Ultimate Touring Machine?

Wow! That's a lot to take in. And people wonder why we have so many
unicycles 🙂

I guess as more people ride geared 36"ers, there will be much more
information.

I guess for a point-to-point 2000km ride, a geared 36" looks to be a
good choice. Climbing can be done on the smaller gear. From watching
other unicyclists, some have a natural faster cadence and some do not.
I figure I go as fast on 125mm cranks when compared to the 110s (unless
I concentrate harder on spinning faster). So, the opposing views on
crank lengths do make sense.

And for a general multi-purpose tour (city, offroad, road, hills etc),
a geared 29" offers more versatility. Gunis are definitely the future
as they just give you more options.

Thanks for the input. And thanks for the thoughts on unsupported
touring too (ya carrying 4kgs is defintely better and more fun than
20kgs).

More research and more questions to come... 😉

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Denali
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I'm glad that a consensus seems to be forming; that a 1:1 gear ratio (I
prefer to call it direct-drive) is what works on hills. I've found that
even with long cranks on my gunis, that the effect of an upslope or
downslope is magnified with an overdrive, as opposed to shorter cranks
on a direct drive.

If the terrain is fairly even, though, gunis rule. The few great riders
who can maintain high cadences on a direct-drive to get their speed may
or may not want to get the same speed with lower their cadences on a
guni. But I do. And I thnk most riders would. It's not so much
important to exceed 20mph, as it is to have a more comfortable and
sustainable cruise at 15.

So when a hill arrives, the solution is to kick it down into direct
drive!

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unisk8r
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_My_dream_touring_unicycle_
I can't wait to join the world of GUNI! Here are the specs of the my
new 36er:
(Sorry to pete that I didn't but the Florian Green...at $1500 it is an
amazing deal)
_Wheel_set_
- Nimbus stealth pro rim
-14 g stainless spokes
-KH/Schlumpf hub
-Nightrider tire
_Cranks_
-Lightweight Qu-Ax ISIS cranks (165s to start with)
-Wellgo M1 pedals
_Frame_
-Triton Sponge Titanium 36er w/ magura bosses (6-8 weeks!😄 )
_Seat_
-Custom Wallis design carbon fiber base dual foam core seat (when Scott
can get to it🙂 )
-Thompson seat post
-KH handle (all I've ever used, light and what I like)
_Brakes_ (if I find them necessary)
Magura HS33 (I thought about a drag set-up but I've been convinced that
this is the way I should go)

My favored style of riding is mountain steeps and fast descents. I'm
trying to keep it as light as possible for climbing but with that extra
GUNI kick. I also commute 20 miles round trip to work, this hopefully
I'll cut my communting time some. Shame I can't make the lobster but
I'll post pics.

So far I've collected the wheelset. Everything else is on order. I
hope this comes together sooner than later so I can stop obsessing and
start riding.

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osmundo
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Hi osmundo- that sounds like a really nice set up. I am just wondering
why you are not going to use a handle like the T7 or similar set up? I
have found the t7 to be a really important addition to my 36r. It gives
me much more stability for fast riding (something you are sure to be
doing in overdrive), comfort and confidence when climbing hills. I have
heard mixed opinions about the brake options as well- some riders
change back from magura's to caliper because of the feel of it- and
didn't someone comment about the quality of the braking surface on the
stealth pro rims? might effect your decision if you find it.
Anywho, hope it all goes really well. I am looking forward to see what
a triton 36r looks like as well so post pics asap!
mark

--
napalm

you wont do it...your SCARED!
"We are all racing towards death. No matter how many great,
intellectual conclusionswe draw during our lives, we know they are only
man made, like God"
http://gallery.unicyclist.com/LAVISs-stuff
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napalm said:

Hi osmundo- that sounds like a really nice set up. I am just wondering
why you are not going to use a handle like the T7 or similar set up?
mark

I just like the KH handle. I have gotten to where I ride with both
hands on for both asents and descents. I use it to shift my weight and
I feel plenty stable. I don't feel I need a larger, weightier handle.
Perhaps someday I will change my mind, but so far I like just the KH.

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osmundo
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napalm said:

Hi osmundo- that sounds like a really nice set up. I am just wondering
why you are not going to use a handle like the T7 or similar set up? I
have found the t7 to be a really important addition to my 36r. It gives
me much more stability for fast riding (something you are sure to be
doing in overdrive), comfort and confidence when climbing hills.

I dunno about the T7 handle. I just took mine off, and I don't really
find much difference (except that the unicycle is *way* lighter than
with a t7). There are only two things that annoy me, the first is that
the T7 looks more cool, the second is that I don't really have a handy
place to put a bell.

unisk8r said:

I'm glad that a consensus seems to be forming; that a 1:1 gear ratio (I
prefer to call it direct-drive) is what works on hills. I've found that
even with long cranks on my gunis, that the effect of an upslope or
downslope is magnified with an overdrive, as opposed to shorter cranks
on a direct drive.

I think the high gear ratios we're using are mostly so high, that it's
hard to say whether this is an effect of the mechanism of gearing, or
just because it's a high gear though. Even on my 29er with 125s, the
high gear is equivalent in leverage to 100mm cranks on a 36. And on the
36" with 165s we're still talking 105mm crank equivalent leverage,
which is pretty short for hilly areas.

Joe

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joemarshall

my pics http://gallery.unicyclist.com/albuq44
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