Re-tensioning a new wheel?

A.Lee said:

I've just made a right balls-up of building up a new back ..the main problem is that the lacing is one spoke out,compared to the valve hole.

As long as you're happy with the access to the valve you can consider that as a purely cosmetic issue, with no other impact on wheel performance.

It might be an issue if the spoke holes in the rim are displaced from the rim centerline, and you've ended up with a wheel built with a lateral cross. However I've built a wheel that way on purpose, and it seems to be doing fine.

But there are no major concerns about disassembling a wheel and starting over either. As far as I can remember the general recommendation is to make sure that the spokes goes into the flange the same way as before when rebuilding a wheel. Then again I've violated that recommendation on purpose too, and that wheel also seems to be holding up well.

If you're worried about repeating the same mistake it might very well be possible to move the spokes around two at at time in order to get them aligned properly. Another method is to lock the spokes together temporarily with a layer of tape around the outermost cross. That will let you remove the rim and adjust its position without upsetting the spoke pattern.
Although depending on your skills it might be faster to take it all apart and start from scratch.

A.Lee said:

I've just made a right balls-up of building up a new back wheel, firstly
it isnt dished enough, so will need all of the drive side spokes
tightening, but the main problem is that the lacing is one spoke
out,compared to the valve hole.
Due to the drilling of the hub, and my incompetence, it is one spoke
out, I can see now that the 'key' spoke for this rim should have been on
the 'off' side, not the drive side as I did it.
It isnt a great problem, as the valve is still quite accesible, but with
the wheel needing to be redished by around 5mm, I thought it may be best
to start again, get it laced properly, and then tensioned properly with
the right amount of dish, and the truing stand set-up correctly.

Would there be any problem in doing this?

I did the same thing myself a few weeks ago. (Jobst's instructions were
a bit clearer than Sheldon's. Alas, I don't remember where I put
Jobst's book.) The only problem is wasted time taking everything apart
and re-lacing. Oh, and even more time if you want to keep the inboard
and outboard spokes separated.

Works fine now.

Pat

Will there be an issue at the rim seam with the spokes not not being cross
at it, essenitally "helping" to keep it together rather than "puling" it
apart?

"A.Lee" <alan@darkroom.+.com> wrote in message
news:1hiryor.192zka61k2a0sxN%alan@darkroom.+.com...

Quoted message said:

I've just made a right balls-up of building up a new back wheel, firstly
it isnt dished enough, so will need all of the drive side spokes
tightening, but the main problem is that the lacing is one spoke
out,compared to the valve hole.
Due to the drilling of the hub, and my incompetence, it is one spoke
out, I can see now that the 'key' spoke for this rim should have been on
the 'off' side, not the drive side as I did it.
It isnt a great problem, as the valve is still quite accesible, but with
the wheel needing to be redished by around 5mm, I thought it may be best
to start again, get it laced properly, and then tensioned properly with
the right amount of dish, and the truing stand set-up correctly.

Would there be any problem in doing this?
Ta
Alan.
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Chris said:

Will there be an issue at the rim seam with the spokes not not being cross
at it, essenitally "helping" to keep it together rather than "puling" it
apart?

No issue, the tension across the whole wheel holds it together.

The wheel will be fine as it is as, after dishing and tensioning of
course.

However why not rebuild the wheel correctly from scratch to get
yourself some more experience?

Vince said:

The wheel will be fine as it is as, after dishing and tensioning of
course.

However why not rebuild the wheel correctly from scratch to get
yourself some more experience?

Yes, I will be doing a full rebuild, it is annoying me so much, just
seeing the 'one spoke out' when I look at the valve!
I was following Sheldons guide to lacing, unfortunately, the rim
drilling on this wheel did not mate up to the key spoke being on the
drive side (well, after studying it for a while, I THINK that is what is
wrong), so it'll be rebuilt with the key spoke starting on the off-side,
and hopefully will be right second time around.
I'm just off to start it now, so expect some foul language for the next
hour!
Thanks for the replies
Alan.

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A.Lee said:

Vince said:

The wheel will be fine as it is as, after dishing and tensioning of
course.

However why not rebuild the wheel correctly from scratch to get
yourself some more experience?

Yes, I will be doing a full rebuild, it is annoying me so much, just
seeing the 'one spoke out' when I look at the valve!
I was following Sheldons guide to lacing, unfortunately, the rim
drilling on this wheel did not mate up to the key spoke being on the
drive side (well, after studying it for a while, I THINK that is what is
wrong), so it'll be rebuilt with the key spoke starting on the off-side,
and hopefully will be right second time around.
I'm just off to start it now, so expect some foul language for the next
hour!
Thanks for the replies
Alan.

Just copy a wheel that you already know is OK, for the initial lacing.
For the rest, use the advice on the web e.g. sheldonbrown.com.

Be patient, no need to rush, be aware that whatever you do, it will take
a few wheels to get really good at it and that there are not real shortcuts.

But if you're careful, your first attempt will be decent, possibly even
good. Good luck, it's fun once you get the hang of it.

/Robert (autodidact, in Sweden)

Robert said:

A.Lee said:

Yes, I will be doing a full rebuild, it is annoying me so much, just
seeing the 'one spoke out' when I look at the valve!
I was following Sheldons guide to lacing,

Just copy a wheel that you already know is OK, for the initial lacing.
For the rest, use the advice on the web e.g. sheldonbrown.com.

After a quick inspection, I realised that it could be fixed with just a
re-lace of the drive side, and that is now done, with the help of an
electric screwdriver, now I've got the painstaking task of truing it.
A pic of before and after here:
http://www.darkroom.plus.com/wheel2.jpg

Alan.
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